[Repeater-Builder] Genesis MVA repair
Hey guys. It looks like some magic smoke came out of my convertacom the other day. While I was sitting in traffic the smoke literally came rolling out of it. After taking things apart, it appears that one of the large 1500uF capacitors in the switching supply of the unit went bad. I can fix that no problem. I just wanted to ask you guys if you thought that there might be anything else I would look at while I had the unit apart. I would hate to get it all back together and find out it was another problem. For the sake of providing further details, the control section of the MVA seems fine. It seems that the charging section has been the most effected. I don't see anything else burnt or damaged. My greatest concern is U1 which is a UC 2843N. In preparation of this also being a bad component, I have been looking for a replacement and haven't had any luck. Any thoughts or comments? Albert KI4ORI
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Interesting RSS occurence
I just ran into this again last night. This time I was working with a high band HT600 that I was going to put on 2m. It is a 146-152 unit. The bandsplit screen shows the radio as a 146-152 unit, but when programing each channel, at the top right of the screen, the software displays 143-152. I didn't need to do any hex editing to enter frequencies below 146. Again I forgot to notate what version of the software I actually have. But none the less, this is kind of weird. So anyone ever encounter this before? --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@... wrote: I had an interesting occurrence the other night while programing one of my UHF P200's It is a radio I use for 70cm and is a 438-470 unit. Usually at the top right of the display when running the software, the bandsplit is displayed. Well, I noticed last night that it did not display 438-470, but it displayed 430-470. I could easily enter frequencies down to 430 without the need to do the hex editing tricks. I just thought this was interesting and never noticed it before. I am going to check my other UHF P200 and see if they display the same bandsplit. I wonder if it is the radio or the software that was modified or otherwise hacked somewhere along the way. Anyone else ever run into anything like this? Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Digest Number 7357
You guys will have to find a picture of that. It sounds hysterical! I assume Mr. McKay built the transmitter right into the mic, no? And you will have to excuse me, but what is a 94? I myself don't have stories like this because I am a child of the 80's, but I love hearing about it and am know amongst my friends as the keeper of old things. This is why you all keep getting questions from me regarding the Genesis radios. Keep the stories and good advice coming. -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, tony dinkel tonydinke...@... wrote: I remember that too Ken! I miss SAROC! And for your SoCal types.. I remember seeing Dick McKay walking around the Sahara in Vegas, talking into a Motorola mic (with just the coil cord hanging down) and listening on '94. This was during SAROC in the 70's Ken _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2
[Repeater-Builder] Interesting RSS occurence
I had an interesting occurrence the other night while programing one of my UHF P200's It is a radio I use for 70cm and is a 438-470 unit. Usually at the top right of the display when running the software, the bandsplit is displayed. Well, I noticed last night that it did not display 438-470, but it displayed 430-470. I could easily enter frequencies down to 430 without the need to do the hex editing tricks. I just thought this was interesting and never noticed it before. I am going to check my other UHF P200 and see if they display the same bandsplit. I wonder if it is the radio or the software that was modified or otherwise hacked somewhere along the way. Anyone else ever run into anything like this? Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: NSN 6054A 12W speaker schematic ?
Thank you all!! That was exactly it, the LM-1877! Actually, now that you mention it, I recall seeing it in my Forest Mimms books from Radio Shack years ago. And Mike, thanks for confirming the details of the circuit operation for me. Thanks again! Albert BTW, I thought I posted a reply earlier this evening but I haven't seen it yet. If two messages pop up from me it is because Yahoo is retarded. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris wa6...@... wrote: At 01:19 PM 07/23/10, you wrote: Hey Guys. I was looking at the schematic for the above mentioned speaker (thank you repeater builder site) and I had a few questions. If anybody's interested it's here: http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/genesis/pdfs/nsn6054a-68p81108c39-o.pdf First, does anyone know where to find a replacement for the 5184320A99 dual op-amp labeled U1? I'd look in the National Semiconductor products manual that covers automotive audio products. That schematic resembles what I saw in an early 1980s app note for a car stereo receiver. LM187something. Secondly, Is this op-amp basically being used as a buffer, preamp, and inverter? Both halves are being used strictly as an inverting buffer for out-of-phase audio. Look carefully at the schematic and remember that nothing in the input circuit is ground referenced - the audio input (from the radio) is balanced audio (both are sides hot, 180 degrees out of phase with each other, and there's an implied / virtual audio ground) in the middle. Each side of the circuitry driving the speaker is a mirror image of the other, just like the incoming audio is a mirror image compared to the virtual ground. Thirdly, what on earth are pins 3, 4, 5 and pins 10, 11, 12 doing? I have never seen so many pins on an op-amp tied together. If that chip is the one I'm thinking of its capable of about 2 watts per channel on it's own. That takes some heat sinking. Probably a heat sink for the final transistors inside the opamp. And if you look closely, pin 1 is audio ground, and pins 3,4,5, 10, 11 and 12 are power ground - and those are switched to ground by Q3, which is driven by the squelch circuit in the radio. Thanks! Albert Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: NSN 6054A 12W speaker schematic ?
Thanks, that was it. And you know what. Now that I see it, I do recall reading about that power op-amp in one of my Forest Mimms books years ago. Also it is interesting in that they used a 2W driver in a bridged configuration to drive a transistor amp. I guess higher power op-amps were not available at the time, and using the one op-amp helped reduce the transistor count. Thanks a lot!!! Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX dcf...@... wrote: Err. LM-1877 On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 1:35 PM, DCFluX dcf...@... wrote: Oops, didn't realize it was the stereo version, Try LM1887. On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 1:28 PM, DCFluX dcf...@... wrote: Just by your description of the pins, I would suggest you look at the LM-380, 2.5W amplifier. They are tied together as they act as the chips heatsink. On Fri, Jul 23, 2010 at 1:19 PM, hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@... wrote: Hey Guys. I was looking at the schematic for the above mentioned speaker (thank you repeater builder site) and I had a few questions. First, does anyone know where to find a replacement for the 5184320A99 dual op-amp labeled U1? Secondly, Is this op-amp basically being used as a buffer, preamp, and inverter? Thirdly, what on earth are pins 3, 4, 5 and pins 10, 11, 12 doing? I have never seen so many pins on an op-amp tied together. Thanks! Albert Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] NSN 6054A 12W speaker schematic ?
Hey Guys. I was looking at the schematic for the above mentioned speaker (thank you repeater builder site) and I had a few questions. First, does anyone know where to find a replacement for the 5184320A99 dual op-amp labeled U1? Secondly, Is this op-amp basically being used as a buffer, preamp, and inverter? Thirdly, what on earth are pins 3, 4, 5 and pins 10, 11, 12 doing? I have never seen so many pins on an op-amp tied together. Thanks! Albert
[Repeater-Builder] RG-142B/U
I have access to some Belden 83242 coax which is of RG-142B/U type. The specifications look pretty good but I was wondering if anyone has any inputs or thoughts on it's use. Also, does it require any special connectors? Thanks
[Repeater-Builder] lowband HT antennas
I know I am revisiting this again but I could use some clarification. It has been stated before that the Motorola low band helical antennas have a useful bandwidth of about 1MHz. I was just wondering why that was the case, say in comparison to HT antennas in other bands. For instance, (and correct me if I am wrong) the mid UHF (430-470MHz) radios often all use the same 6 1/4 wave whip. What am I missing? I know that the first type of antenna is loaded and the other is a 1/4 wave whip, but beyond that I don't understand the fundamental differences that would allow one a wider bandwidth over the other. Please pardon my antenna theory ignorance Also, in relation to that, what use would be a 99 channel MT1000 unless one either programmed the frequencies on quite a narrow spread, or carried multiple antennas? Thanks in advance, Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT - Triplett 310
Mike, I didn't know if you were determined to make your own leads or not. But if you are interested, you can get just about anything you want for your Triplett meter at the following website. http://www.byramlabs.com/triplett.php http://www.byramlabs.com/triplett_leads.php I have no affiliation with the site. I just know of them because last Christmas I spruced up an old 310 for my grandfather-in law. He was a long time employee of old Ma Bell and used the 310 for years. He said to me one day I just can't use those dam digital meters! So, I figured I would fix up an old one for him ... and that's the rest of the story -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris wa6...@... wrote: Thanks for the lead to those items. I have a email in to sales at Pomona Mike WA6ILQ At 01:22 PM 06/02/10, you wrote: Mike, Pin plugs appear to be .080 in diameter and miniature banana plugs are .090 in diameter at the Pomona Electronics web site http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/index.php?i=prodmaingetDetails=0parent=HWAREhttp://www.pomonaelectronics.com/index.php?i=prodmaingetDetails=0parent=HWARE I could be wrong, but I found this at Pomona web site: http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/D5936.pdfhttp://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/D5936.pdf and http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3548_1_01.pdfhttp://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3548_1_01.pdf Browse around as they may have what you really need. -- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike Morris Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 12:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT - Triplett 310 Anybody know what they call the size of plugs that go into a Triplett 310 meter? See the photo at http://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/triplett-310.jpghttp://www.repeater-builder.com/wa6ilq/triplett-310.jpg The jacks are smaller than a bananna plug and bigger than a pin plug. I'd really like to find a set - this is too nice a meter to leave in a desk drawer only becasue there are no probes. If I can make it usable it will go great in my go-bag. Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: crimping assistance please
Thanks everyone for the input. I can understand the statements regarding standardizing on connectors and cable in order to minimize tooling. The connectors I originally purchased were not labeled in any way. They were cheapies I specifically bought at a hamfest in order to get a little practice in. I will take a look at a few manufacturers and see what info I came up with. RF Products and Amphenol come to mind first hand. I have used Amphenol in the past for other connectors and trust their quality. I hope you all will pardon my ignorance on this subject. I have a bit of experience with electronics but not with cabling. Especially not with crimped connectors. I have always soldered things in the past, but when it came to RF connectors, I was not having much success. So I chose to take a look into crimping. BTW, I crimped my first TNC connector the other night and was amazed at how easy it was in comparison to soldering a connector. Jeff, I will go through the archives and see what I can find. I usually have poor luck doing searches in yahoo groups, but since you gave the date I can most likely find it. Thanks again for everyone's input. -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo j...@... wrote: I know this has been thrown around a bit before but I could use a little assistance. Go through the repeater-builder message archive on Yahoo groups. On 7/22/09 I posted a long message on the subject. Basically I am not sure what size hex to use for the above stated RG-58A/U and BNC and TNC connectors. The manufacturer's docs for the connectors will specify which die size to use. *Usually* the ferrule crimp for RG58 is 0.213. The center pin varies a bit between manufacturers. The biggest difference with the center pins is whether or not there is an area for the crimp close to the coax that is smaller diameter than the rest of the cylindrical part of the pin. Personally, I always solder the center pin, especially on cable with a solid center conductor. Also, I have a question regarding stripping the cable. I am not going to be doing high volumes of cables, but probably will be doing them on different size of coax. Would you recommend a stripper or will a razor knife suffice. A good utility knife will suffice with a little practice. Lastly, and relating to the coax strippers: Don't different connectors, even on the same type/size of coax, need different stripping lengths? Sometimes yes. This would probably translate into quite a few different strippers for different cables and connectors, no? Yes, it could. That's why it's worthwhile to standardize on what connectors and tools you use. --- Jeff WN3A
[Repeater-Builder] Re: crimping assistance please
Again, I thank everyone for their input. I think I made a decent purchase that will pay off over time. I will look into some quality connectors. I might buy a couple strippers over time also, but I think I can make do with a razor knife for now. I may also look into trying to solder the center pins too, depending upon which connectors I get. I'm off and running. Thanks for the good start in the coax department. -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kris Kirby k...@... wrote: On Mon, 12 Apr 2010, hitekgearhead wrote: I know this has been thrown around a bit before but I could use a little assistance. I just purchased a crimper and a couple sets of dies. I bought some cheap BNC and TNC connectors to practice with along with some RG-58A/U cable. I bought 3 different sets of dies. One of which is for RG-8 size connectors so I am not really concerned with that yet. The other two dies have hex crimp sizes of .324, .255, .215, .100, .068 and .215, .184, .068, .042 Obviously these two dies duplicate the .215 and .068 sizes. .215 is what I use for RG-58, .255 is used for RG-59/LMR-240/RG-8X. I think .68 or .100 is used for the center pin of either of those, but it's often connector dependent. The .042 crimp will be for the smaller varieties of coax like RG-174's center pin (or perhaps the micro-coax they use in the U.FL connectors.) If you look around, you'll find that you've equipped yourself to crimp anything from RG-6 all the way down to RG-174, and certain types of Fiber Optics. I'm a firm believer in investing in good tools. I think you've made the purchase of a lifetime, so to speak. You won't have to replace that crimper until you either wear it out or need to replace the jaws. Basically I am not sure what size hex to use for the above stated RG-58A/U and BNC and TNC connectors. .215. Also, I have a question regarding stripping the cable. I am not going to be doing high volumes of cables, but probably will be doing them on different size of coax. Would you recommend a stripper or will a razor knife suffice. If you're making a lot of cables, the stripping tools they make are excellent for speeding coax preparation. Most of them make cable prep easier than cutting copper pipe. Lastly, and relating to the coax strippers: Don't different connectors, even on the same type/size of coax, need different stripping lengths? This would probably translate into quite a few different strippers for different cables and connectors, no? You can kinda eye-ball this using a nice pair of strippers, a sharp knife, and some careful cutting. Just remember that you can't allow either piece to touch and that you don't have to strip to entire center conductor. Also, the shield should usually be cut back to just long enough to interface with the shield ring, preferably the entire length of the shield ring. I usually strip about 2 of RG-58 of the outer jacket, cut the shield down to 1/2 from the jacket, then start eyeballing to figure out where I have to strip the inner conductor to get it out of the end of the center pin. Or into the center pin, as the case may be. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
[Repeater-Builder] crimping assistance please
I know this has been thrown around a bit before but I could use a little assistance. I just purchased a crimper and a couple sets of dies. I bought some cheap BNC and TNC connectors to practice with along with some RG-58A/U cable. I bought 3 different sets of dies. One of which is for RG-8 size connectors so I am not really concerned with that yet. The other two dies have hex crimp sizes of .324, .255, .215, .100, .068 and .215, .184, .068, .042 Obviously these two dies duplicate the .215 and .068 sizes. Basically I am not sure what size hex to use for the above stated RG-58A/U and BNC and TNC connectors. Also, I have a question regarding stripping the cable. I am not going to be doing high volumes of cables, but probably will be doing them on different size of coax. Would you recommend a stripper or will a razor knife suffice. Lastly, and relating to the coax strippers: Don't different connectors, even on the same type/size of coax, need different stripping lengths? This would probably translate into quite a few different strippers for different cables and connectors, no? Thanks Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola P210?
I was looking for info on this radio. From what I have gathered so far, it appears to be from the Genesis line but I am not sure. I know what the P200 is, and that is definitely part of the Genesis line, but what is the P210? I can't seem to find much info on the net regarding it. Can anyone shed a little light on the subject? Thanks
[Repeater-Builder] Re: (mobile heliax) Two coax and connector questions
And that was the kind of thing I was referring to. I saw a mobile mount that used some small diameter heliax (about 1/4) from the antenna to the radio. I immagine it was for 800-900MHz or something like that. Basically, I was just curious as to how common and/or practical it might be. In a large vehicle, with long coax runs, I could see the benefit of small diameter heliax. especially at higher UHF frequencies. I could see it being practical in an RV, or commo trailer/van. I just didn't know if it would hold up mechanically. (kind of going back to that solid vs. stranded center conductor argument for mobile coax installs) Thanks for the input guys. Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey wb2...@... wrote: Antenna Specialists used to sell a mobile antenna mount option using small diameter heliax. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: larryjspamme...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 2:08 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Two coax and connector questions The only people I've ever seen using heliax (1/2) to run to their mobile antennas, wattmeters, etc. are those CB'ers who like to do the High-Power Shootouts. The setups I've actually seen up close are typically rigs like Chevy Suburbans with big banks of batteries in the rear, multiple alternators, and a 9-12 KW+ Dave-Made, Skullcrackka, or other specialty 11M amp, feeding their up-front Bird wattmeters and the big antennas on the roof (mounted on big blocks of plexiglass) with 1/2 heliax. I've seen them at ham swap meets looking for short lengths of 1/2 heliax and UHF Andrew heliax connectors to go with it.
[Repeater-Builder] Two coax and connector questions
Hey guys, I was wondering if you all would entertain two questions that I have. First, what is the purpose/use of reverse polarity coax connectors such as SMA and TNC? I assume there are others but those are the ones I have seen. Secondly, I ran across something regarding using small diameter heliax in a mobile environment. I had never heard of that before and it seemed like it would be prone to vibration problems. I am probably wrong though. Anyone care to shed some light on that subject? Thanks Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Two coax and connector questions
Really?. is that the real purpose of reverse-polarity connectors? I am quite flabbergasted.. So what about the other question?.. using heliax in mobile installations? Thanks Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Glenn Little WB4UIV glennmaill...@... wrote: We all know that they are available. But, this is the way out to get the type acceptance. The FCC is all lawyers with no technical people on staff. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 09:27 PM 3/3/2010, you wrote: Actually, RP-type (RP-SMA, RP-TNC, etc.) connectors are very easily available to the general public. wlan-parts.com oddcables.com etc, etc, etc. -Brian / KF4ZWZ On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 6:11 PM, Glenn Little WB4UIV glennmaill...@... wrote: Reverse threaded connectors are used to get a piece of equipment past FCC type acceptance. The type acceptance paper work specifies the antenna that is used for acceptance. Any other antenna voids the type acceptance. Since reverse threaded connectors are not available to the general public, the FCC bought off on this to prevent the antenna from being changed. Another trick that is used is a connector with the wrong sex center conductor pin. 73 Glenn WB4UIV At 06:08 PM 3/3/2010, you wrote: Hey guys, I was wondering if you all would entertain two questions that I have. First, what is the purpose/use of reverse polarity coax connectors such as SMA and TNC? I assume there are others but those are the ones I have seen. Secondly, I ran across something regarding using small diameter heliax in a mobile environment. I had never heard of that before and it seemed like it would be prone to vibration problems. I am probably wrong though. Anyone care to shed some light on that subject? Thanks Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: dual band convertacom
I think the winner of the best response is Mark with the Rube Goldberg statement followed by Kris with wonky and Lee with the plain old WHY? Thank you all for your input. I appreciate the comments and the technical advice. My main motivation for doing this is A)to be different and weird... ie I do like the wonky aspect of it. And B) I already have most everything installed in the car and have the two amplifiers on hand. All I need is a couple cables and the appropriate switch and/or duplexer/diplexer. Also, on that note, hopefully you guys will forgive me if I used the incorrect term for the splitter/combiner. I have heard them called both duplexers and diplexers. Maybe I will get even more weird and add a 10m and 6m Genesis HT to my collection and rig them all to work from the same MVA.. Thanks again. Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mark n9...@... wrote: Albert, I had a very similar installation as you describe in my car, and I used a dual-band brick PA with my setup. 5W VHF yielded 50W / 4W UHF yielded 40W. My biggest issue with the setup was they side contacts on my radios wouldn't make good contact all the time with the MVA, so I yanked it in favor of a dual-band mobile. But I still have the MVA and the PA, just in case... ;-) Seeing you prefer to use separate PAs, you might want to consider two diplexers - one ahead of each PA to split the feedlines and then one behind them to re-combine them. But to be honest, IMHO this is kinda the Rube Goldberg way of doing it, I think. Compare prices - by the time you get the diplexers and other stuff, you may well be approaching the cost of one dual-band PA. Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hitekgearhead I know I am going to get the singular answer of WHY but I really would like some technical input on this. In my car I have an old Genesis series convertacom connected to a dual band Comet antenna. I often will swap my VHF and UHF HT back and forth and utilize the dual band capability of my antenna. It works pretty well. What I would like to get some input on however, is how to run some power with this setup. Of course the easiest would be to get a amateur dual band amplifier, but I already have a VHF and a UHF (N1275A and N1274A) amplifier. What I would like to do is parallel these two amps with some kind of switching/duplexer setup so that I could easily switch from VHF to UHF. My initial idea was to run an antenna switch from the convertacom to the amps so I can manually select which one the signal goes to. Then on the output side of the amps I thought about using an antenna duplexer on the output of the amps to feed the antenna. I was also thinking of running a switch to alternately select which amp was receiving DC power, but I don't know if that would be necessary. (Could I leave both amps powered on in this situation?) So, does this sound about right or am I going off the deep end? Thanks Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Genesis series UHF antennas
A while back didn't someone post that they had UHF Motorola Genesis series antennas available at a good price? I am looking for a few, maybe as many as a dozen, if the price is right. Thanks, Albert
[Repeater-Builder] dual band convertacom
I know I am going to get the singular answer of WHY but I really would like some technical input on this. In my car I have an old Genesis series convertacom connected to a dual band Comet antenna. I often will swap my VHF and UHF HT back and forth and utilize the dual band capability of my antenna. It works pretty well. What I would like to get some input on however, is how to run some power with this setup. Of course the easiest would be to get a amateur dual band amplifier, but I already have a VHF and a UHF (N1275A and N1274A) amplifier. What I would like to do is parallel these two amps with some kind of switching/duplexer setup so that I could easily switch from VHF to UHF. My initial idea was to run an antenna switch from the convertacom to the amps so I can manually select which one the signal goes to. Then on the output side of the amps I thought about using an antenna duplexer on the output of the amps to feed the antenna. I was also thinking of running a switch to alternately select which amp was receiving DC power, but I don't know if that would be necessary. (Could I leave both amps powered on in this situation?) So, does this sound about right or am I going off the deep end? Thanks Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Price Check on aisle five.....
Hey guys, I have the opportunity to purchase some surplus Andrew heliax. The model is EFX2RN-50. It is 3/8 At $0.50/foot, is this a good deal? I don't think connectors are installed. I am thinking of using it for amateur use on the VHF UHF bands at home. What do you think? -Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Price Check on aisle five.....
Well, given the responses I think I will pass on it. I would have wanted to run at least some of it outside to my antenna, so if it degrades quickly outdoors then that kills the deal. I was aware that there is a way to attach PL-259's to 3/8 heliax, but this spawns another question. Could N connectors meant for the same size cable be put on 3/8 heliax? Thanks for the input guys. Maybe I will keep an eye out for 1/2 -Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo j...@... wrote: The RN in the part number tells me it's the grey fire-retardant jacket. Unless Andrew changed what they make the jacket out of, it should NOT be used outdoors, it degrades quickly from UV. It's primarily intended to be used as a plenum-rated cable indoors. I remember scrapping about 800' of 1-1/4 LDF6 with that grey jacket that had to be taken off a tower because the jacket had split and was cracking and falling off the cable the entire length of the outdoor run. The former tenant that had installed the line got it cheap, but didn't know/understand that it wasn't supposed to be used outdoors. EFX2 is extra-flexible. It's even more flexible than Superflex. The jacket on those cables is thinner than regular Heliax, making them more susceptable to nicks and subsequent water ingress when used outdoors. $0.50 is a fair price at best for surplus 3/8 'flex. You should be able to find some surplus 1/2 (non-flex) for that price. --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hitekgearhead Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 2:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Price Check on aisle five. Hey guys, I have the opportunity to purchase some surplus Andrew heliax. The model is EFX2RN-50. It is 3/8 At $0.50/foot, is this a good deal? I don't think connectors are installed. I am thinking of using it for amateur use on the VHF UHF bands at home. What do you think? -Albert No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.426 / Virus Database: 270.14.82/2525 - Release Date: 12/08/09 07:34:00
[Repeater-Builder] Would anyone be interested in.....
a couple of Motorola 6 bank chargers for the older MX series HT's. The model number is NTN4831A. I have not checked for functionality but they are in really good shape. For the price, who cares. Just come get them. They are in my way. I would rather not ship, but we can discuss that if you really want them. If no one wants them they are going to the transfer station. Thanks, Albert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Would anyone be interested in.....
Please pardon my brief moment of mental flatulence. I am located in central FL. Thanks for catching that Milt. I will ship if someone really wants to pay for it, but these things are heavy. Albert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Milt men...@... wrote: Albert, It would be helpfull if you would indicate where you are located since you are not interested in shipping. Milt N3LTQ - Original Message - From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 11:18 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Would anyone be interested in. a couple of Motorola 6 bank chargers for the older MX series HT's. The model number is NTN4831A. I have not checked for functionality but they are in really good shape. For the price, who cares. Just come get them. They are in my way. I would rather not ship, but we can discuss that if you really want them. If no one wants them they are going to the transfer station. Thanks, Albert Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: Tape
I want to thank you all for you input, insight, and stories. You have confirmed exactly what I was thinking. I too have often experienced vinyl electrical tape getting gooey and sticky in high temp environments (automobiles). This is why I use heat shrink on most things. Also, I didn't think it would be a good sealer on coax connections just by itself. I guess everything has it's purpose. Now how about that waxed linen thread instead of zip ties
[Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
