[Repeater-Builder] More com port to PTT questions
OK now that I have my circuit working I would like to try something else. I would like to have 2 different com ports be able to key the transmitter. At first I was thinking maybe I needed an OR gate to do this however I was thinking I might be able to do it much easier. If I connect both DTR lines from both com ports to diodes then connect those diodes to the transistor in the PTT circuit shouldn't that allow for either com port to trigger the transistor and keep the one com port from feeding back to the other? Will the negative voltage on the com ports effect this? Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] GE Delta
Well I was over at the junk store looking for UHF commercial radios for the GMRS project and didn't find anything for that but did find the drawer unit for a low band GE Delta for $5.00. So now what. I would love to be able to slide this thing into 6m and use it for something. How does one go about programming one of these puppies? I have seen a lot of different things out on the net but nothing that seems to say the easy way to get it programmed. Will it slide into 6m by just programming it or does it need to be modded as well? I know another project but that is how these things happen. Go looking for one thing and find something else to play with. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Delta
Cool. I will check to see if it has the chip. They don't have any programmers listed right now. I will ask them if they have any not listed. How about testing this thing out without a control head? I have a service monitor so I just need to know how to power it up and listen to the speaker and make it tx so that I can see what it is putting out? Thanks, Vern --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If the unit you are looking at is a programmable type, you can program with the RFGuys programmer by removing the chip and plugging it into their programmer board which plugs into the parallel port of your computer. You have to use DOS to generate the personality (a 256 byte binary file) to move to the chip. They supply a program to generate the personality. I use one of these programmers to generate personalities for GE Rangr and GE Phoenix radios. I don't have any programmable Deltas. Some folks have indicated problems getting their computer to work with this programmer, but I use an IBM 390 laptop and it works fine. Be aware that there were lots of crystal controlled Deltas made also. You will have to order crystals for those types. To verify that your radio is programmable you will find an XR2212 EEPROM near the microprocessor in a socket. This is the chip you remove and plug into the RFGuys programmer. RFGuys markets their unit on Ebay. 73 - Jim W5ZIT mung_bungholio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well I was over at the junk store looking for UHF commercial radios for the GMRS project and didn't find anything for that but did find the drawer unit for a low band GE Delta for $5.00. So now what. I would love to be able to slide this thing into 6m and use it for something. How does one go about programming one of these puppies? I have seen a lot of different things out on the net but nothing that seems to say the easy way to get it programmed. Will it slide into 6m by just programming it or does it need to be modded as well? I know another project but that is how these things happen. Go looking for one thing and find something else to play with. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] Echolink Interface to RC-1000
I am trying to get my PC connected to my RC-1000. Is there any reason why I couldn't just take the 5v high line from the computer's serial port to the COS line on the Remote Repeater Line? It goes high when Echolink wants to send audio out to the repeater. Also I tried to connect an earphone up to pin 17 the remote repeater TX audio line from the RC-1000 and I am not getting anything through it. The remote repeater function is enabled and I am getting the extra tail beep. I also checked and the jumper wire from J1 to the RX audio on P1 is there. I guess this isn't a huge deal as I should be able to take the audio right from the regular rx audio pin as long as having it hooked up to the controller and the PC won't cause a problem. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] My Repeater
I got my duplexers in today and everything seems to be running OK. One of the next things I need to do is get Echolink running from the controller instead of a radio linked into the repeater. Does anyone know the best way to wire the PC into an R1000V repeater? One other issue I am having is getting the voice ID to work. No matter what I do it doesn't seem to be working. I guess it's not a huge deal since I can do the voice ID through echolink though. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE MASTR II and RC-1000V
An update to this. If I put the jumper on JP1 it puts the radio into transmit mode until I turn it off. If I listen with another radio I can hear the audio. I am running it into a dummy load right now but enough still gets through to hear it. Anyway it seems like for some reason the Recv COS signal isn't reliable. Every once and a while it will key up right but most of the time it doesn't. I guess the next step is to find out which line they are pulling the COS from and see if that may be an issue. Any other suggestions? --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, mung_bungholio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I purchased a GE MASTR II with an RC-1000V controller and I am having a problem with it. When I power it on it transmits the ID and seems to be functioning like it should. However once on it has a hard time kicking into transmit mode. I think that it may be that the radio is not breaking squelch. I have no idea how this was setup and modified so it may just be that the squelch circuit is not right or not adjusted right, however I have not seen any squelch adjustment at all on the outside of the radio. Before I start to tear this thing apart and break anything that isn't already broken. Is there any way I can determine if the radio is breaking squelch or what is going on with receive? All I have is the control cable with the end cut off which is patched into a terminal strip that is then connected to the RC-1000V cable that goes to the DB25 on the back of the case. Does anyone have the wiring colors of the MASTR II control cable and/or the RC-1000V factory cable if there is such a thing? That might help in trouble shooting. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE MASTR II and RC-1000V
I don't know if my other post made it through or not since I sent it from my email but anyway. I put the meter on the CAS line the purple wire from the MASTR II and I do get a change in voltage but it only goes to about .5 v instead of the 10v that the RC-1000 is looking for to key the repeater. Is the CAS voltage dependant on signal or is it either high or low? If it isn't dependant on signal then I need to figure out why I am not getting full voltage to that line. I guess that I could build a relay circuit to put 10v on the line if I can't get the voltage up. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Vern, One question. What do you mean hard time kicking into transmit mode??? Are you refering to having to give strong signal into the repeater or long key into the repeater to bring up??? The RC-1000V has a anti-kerchunk filter that requires a time delay before it keys the repeater. This can be turned on and off. Might be more specific on the problem. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: mung_bungholio [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2007/07/10 Tue AM 10:21:31 CDT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE MASTR II and RC-1000V I purchased a GE MASTR II with an RC-1000V controller and I am having a problem with it. When I power it on it transmits the ID and seems to be functioning like it should. However once on it has a hard time kicking into transmit mode. I think that it may be that the radio is not breaking squelch. I have no idea how this was setup and modified so it may just be that the squelch circuit is not right or not adjusted right, however I have not seen any squelch adjustment at all on the outside of the radio. Before I start to tear this thing apart and break anything that isn't already broken. Is there any way I can determine if the radio is breaking squelch or what is going on with receive? All I have is the control cable with the end cut off which is patched into a terminal strip that is then connected to the RC-1000V cable that goes to the DB25 on the back of the case. Does anyone have the wiring colors of the MASTR II control cable and/or the RC-1000V factory cable if there is such a thing? That might help in trouble shooting. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE MASTR II and RC-1000V
Well I got brave and opend the radio up. It wasn't as cludged together as I thought it would be. I took the COR off or the RUS line instead of the CAS and it's working fine now. I am still having problems with the programming but that is mostly because a couple of the dtmf keys on my radio are not decoding right. The B being the most important one. I tried the ## with the init jumper on but that didn't seem to do anything. I have to try it with one of my moble radios and see what I get. Thanks for the help. Vern
[Repeater-Builder] GE MASTR II and RC-1000V
I purchased a GE MASTR II with an RC-1000V controller and I am having a problem with it. When I power it on it transmits the ID and seems to be functioning like it should. However once on it has a hard time kicking into transmit mode. I think that it may be that the radio is not breaking squelch. I have no idea how this was setup and modified so it may just be that the squelch circuit is not right or not adjusted right, however I have not seen any squelch adjustment at all on the outside of the radio. Before I start to tear this thing apart and break anything that isn't already broken. Is there any way I can determine if the radio is breaking squelch or what is going on with receive? All I have is the control cable with the end cut off which is patched into a terminal strip that is then connected to the RC-1000V cable that goes to the DB25 on the back of the case. Does anyone have the wiring colors of the MASTR II control cable and/or the RC-1000V factory cable if there is such a thing? That might help in trouble shooting. Thanks, Vern KI4ONW
