Re: [Spits] Inconsistent Fuel Gauge Readings Question
It sounds like a loose ground on the fuel sender... 1. Check the voltage between the Chassis and the Black wire of the sender (should be 0 volts. If it's greater than 0, then you have and loose ground) 2. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the sender (should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank) 3. Check voltage between chassis and the Green/Black wire of the gauge (should be around 9 -10 volts for a full tank) 4. Since your temperature gauge is working, I doubt it is the voltage stabilizer but check the voltage from chassis to the light green wire of the gauge. It should be 10 volts. Gene Eighmy Birmingham, AL Before I get into the issue I'm experiencing I want to let folks know that I have used the archive info to install a new sender unit in the tank, which seems to be working. I didn't see anything in the archive that describes my particular problem. So here goes. All electrical items in the car appear to work fine including the Temp Gauge, which I believe is in line with the Fuel Gauge, at least according to the schematic. When I start the Spit up the fuel gauge needle moves and gives me a reading which I believe is pretty accurate, knowing how much I drive and when the last time I got gas was. The problem occurs after about 15 minutes or so of driving the car, when the needle in the gauge drops back to empty. One time after driving longer the gauge came back to life and was fine that day. Most of the time once the needle in the gauge drops down to empty it never reads correctly again even across engines starts and stops driving that day. It seems to want to really settle like over-night before the gauge comes back to life again. Like I said, the Temp Gauge continues to operate fine during this whole time ___ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine shop? -and Happy 4th!
Nick, I went with the Fast Road Profile Cam from Nigel at SpitBits. It is pretty close to the one recommended in John Davies' article called Skimming Your Head for a Higher Compression Ratio. That makes a huge difference and puts all that extra compression to work. With the old cam, I could barely make it to redline. With the Fast road cam it pulls all the way past redline and then some... I also added the oil cooler from Spitbits. If you're going to add it, skip the rubber hoses and go with the Stainless hoses. The rubber ones lasted less than 500 miles before coming apart. Looking back, I wish I would have replaced the valves with the Large Intake Valve 1.44 and Large Exhaust Valve 1.23. RazorBob suggested that I do that and I think he was right. Gene Eighmy NASS #275 '79 Spitfire 1500 Birmingham, AL ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] Engine rebuild: What to ask and say to the machine shop? -and Happy 4th!
Nick, -do machine shops expect the crank removed, or would they prefer it in? Leave the crank in. It must be reassembled in the exact same order and orientation. If I were you, I would mark each bearing clamp with a metal punch. Punch the front with one mark, the middle with two and the rear with three, etc. Then take a detailed picture so you can verify that they put it back together properly. -what about the camshaft, in or out? I upgraded to a better camshaft and included it so they could check the float. I don't remember if they had to do anything but I included it just in case. -do they expect to be told what to grind it to, or will they measure and decide? My machinists said they could skim the head for 9.5:1 (premium gas). Fortunately, I measured everything possible before taking it to the machine shop. When I got it back, I measured and verified everything and noticed that they only took 0.010 off the deck and 0.010 off the head. When I called them on it, they said they didn't know how to cc a head and asked how much I wanted off... I think they know how to do it but it is more of a liability issue. For more info check out my woes: http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire/ -should I be giving them the head as well to install new valve guides and skim? Yes. While you have it apart, you will want to reseat your valves which will improve your performance. They will need all of it. The machine shop I've chosen comes recommended, has worked on Spits and LBCs in general, and is located next door to a mechanic that works on LBCs and others. I've never used that mechanic, but they also come recommended. Should I be taking my own measurements and telling them what to grind it to, or letting them know the over-bore sizes available and let them get to it!? Will they supply the pistons and rings? When I rebuilt mine, I ordered flat-top pistons to bring it up to UK specs. At the time, 0.020 and 0.050/60 were still available. As you can tell by now I'm sure, the big question is: what do I ask and say to the machine shop, and what should I do to prepare before-hand? Figure out what you want to accomplish first. Do you want stock US/Canada performance? Or do you want UK performance? Or a race fuel powered rocket? It is VERY IMPORTANT that it all goes back together in the same order. Do not take a box of parts to the machinist without knowing how it all goes back together. Mark parts and take pictures to document. Trust but verify your machinist. Measure twice... you can only cut once... Gene Eighmy Birmingham, AL ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] Radio problems
WD-40 may not be a good idea. Try contact cleaner from Radio Shack or an electronic supply house. Gene -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:spitfires- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of S1500 Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 1:14 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Radio problems I took my Spit out just to get the cobwebs out(due to me not insuring it this year), and it drove better than ever. Some intentional shifting at high rpms(drivin' it hard) resulted in zero slippage of the clutch. Which leads me to a problem I'm almost grateful to have: the radio is now on the fritz. If I keep it at low volume, it works. If I try to dare move it up in volume, I hear nothing but a faint ticking sound. Know what it might be? Friend said the rheostat that is the volume control is the problem. Would squirting some WD-40 inside it fix it, or just make a big 'ol mess? The wiring is in great shape, having checked it a few times and fixing any breakages when I put the transmission back in. ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
RE: 1980 Spitfire Head
I agree with Joe... I milled only about 0.060 and it pings on 87 octane so bad I bought some Lucas Octane Boost. The most milling I have heard about is 0.200 on RazorBob's '79. Kastner is probably running at 10.5-11:1 compression and running it on Jet Fuel... now that would be fun! Gene Eighmy Birmingham 79 Spitfire The little Kastner competition prep book for the 1500 Spitfire has a chapter on heads. One of the first sentences in that chapter says something like 'mill the head 0.225 in. mjb. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: 1980 Spitfire Head
For 9:1 compression on a 1500 motor, you want to replce the US spec dished pistons with the UK spec flat-topped ones. You may still need to mill the head a bit, but this will get you close to the stock UK 9:1 spec. Roger, I used +0.020 flat pitons and milled the head on my 79 Spitfire to get 9.5:1 CR. Originally, I had asked the machine shop to mill the head for 9.5:1 CR but when I got it back, all they had done was take off 0.012 to flatten the head. When I called them on it, they asked if I knew the answer so I went off reading everything I could on the subject. The most useful was an article by John Davies called Skimming Your Head For A Higher Compression Ratio. http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/skimming_your_head.shtml Toward the end days of Triumph, there were a lot of different head and piston combinations and you never know if a PO may have swapped heads so it is best to measure the amount empirically. I determined that I needed an additional 0.050-0.060 skimmed. When I got the head back, I believe I measured about 9.3:1 but based on how the engine runs (or doesn't run) on 87 octane and how well it runs on 93 octane, I'm pretty sure it is closer to 9.5:1. If you want to see my struggle with this, check out my website (starting with 23 January): http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire/ Gene Eighmy Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
RE: Throttle return spring - Weber DGV
I had both problems when I first installed the Weber. I used the return spring from the Zenith and it worked fine for pulling back to idle but the performance was about the same as the ZS... until the second barrel opened up. All I had to do was screw the accelerator pedal floor stop all the way into the pedal which gave me an extra inch of throttle play. This was more than enough to open up the 2nd barrel. Gene Birmingham (Alabama) I took out the pushy throttle return spring from my old Stromberg, and just put it around the throttle cable between the mounting plate the rotator thingy. Didn't even start the engine, just held down the pedal to the maximum, and it only comes close to activating the 2nd stage barrel, but does not. Tried tightening up the cable in hopes of getting rid of the slack, but no go. The first degree or 2 of pusing down on the gas just tauts the spring + cable. Back to the drawing board. Looks like I will have to find an anchor point front of the carb use a spring. I wanted to avoid that since it looked Rube Goldberg-like. Thankfully I bought some springs for dirt cheap at Axman, and I think I even found a replacement light for the tachometer(with the crown-shaped thing) should I ever need to replacement, AND resistors to experiment on the tach with. Ultimately I want to engineer my own throttle plate(not in the carb, but the thing the cable end ties to) + mounting, since IMO it is badly engineered. Something with a shorter throw so I can get full throttle range + nice 90 degree angle to the l-shaped plate + circular surface for an even pull + mounting hole for return spring. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
SPAX Dual-adjustable setup question
I have three questions about the Spax dual-adjustable front shocks: 1. Is the C-Spanner (wrench) included with the set or is it sold separately? 2. Is there a recommended spring height to start out with? 3. Which way do the spring seats face? Dome toward or away from the spring? Thanks, Gene Eighmy Birmingham AL 79 Spitfire 1500 *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: NASS Re: Speedo question
My Speedo cable had a similar demise. I added oil and it quieted down but then broke shortly after that. The graphite powder might last longer. Oil will destroy a lock (it attracts dust and grit) where graphite won't. Gene * At 04:40 PM 1/17/2005, Daniel Parrott wrote: I've noticed a rhythmic scraping noise from my speedo cable, especially as I slow down. Can I buy a little time by just adding some gear oil to the upper end of the speedo cable, or should I just go ahead and order one? I'd try graphite powder (for locks) before I'd try oil... *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Automotive GPS Software
Hi James, My brother has a similar program for his iPAQ which has a nice sounding lady tell him when to turn but it won't calculate performance. Most GPS receivers update once a second or so which isn't fast enough for calculating 0-60 times... or maybe that's good enough for Spitfires... The one you saw was probably the DynoStar GPS. It updates positional information 20 times a second so it can get accurate data for track performance: http://www.roadtune.co.uk/dynostar.shtml Check your GPS specs. Newer models might refresh faster. You could try finding or writing (aren't you a software dude?) a program that will SPAM the GPS data out into a CSV file and import it into a spreadsheet. If that worked, it would be pretty simple to calculate and display the data. Gene -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:spitfires- [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James Carruthers Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 8:46 AM To: Spit List Subject: Automotive GPS Software Listers, Does anyone know of any software that will calculate 0-60 times.. average speeds etc etc I have a GPS USB dongle now - and it seems that combined with a decent laptop it would produce some interesting results... log all sorts of information. I remember a guy last year at a track day using his Pocket PC with a GPS unit to time his laps (cough cough) - plus a load of other interesting information - even drawing out a map of the circuit too... based on the GPS data... I believe he could also watch himself as a dot go around the circuit... very neat... Anyone know of any? James *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: NASS Car Trailers
Hi Phillip, I'm in Birmingham, AL and called U-Haul about a car trailer last spring. The guy said that U-Haul stopped renting car trailers to Ford Explorer owners because most of the accidents involved Explorers. I tried to explain that there are more Explorers on the road and statistics but it was a corporate mandate. There are a few guys that converted flat-bed trailers (like the kind at Home Depot) to car trailers. It may cost a few bucks more than renting but you can use it again. I did tow my Spitfire from Mobile to Birmingham with the U-Haul dolly and it worked OK but if I had to do it again, I would use the car trailer. Gene Birmingham, AL 79 Spitfire I am getting ready to move my 76 Spitfire from Alabama to Florida and need some advice. I want to trailer it down on a car trailer and not a dolly. Have any of you had any luck with the rental companies like Uhaul? If I was further along on the car I would have liked to just drive it but don't think that is a good idea just yet. Thanks for your help. Phillip 76 Spitfire *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Location of Turn Signal Flasher Unit
It's possible, however, that what you've found is the hazard light flasher unit. There is only one Flasher unit and it is used for both turn signal and hazard lights. Gene *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Short lived victory *sort of long*
HA!! The same thing happened to me on the interstate doing 65 mph. After leaving several hundred feet of rubber on the pavement, the drive shaft propeller dropped when I came to a stop. Gene Sorry, the son Henry and I were laughing and crying at the same time for you. Henry has had this happen to him too...while on Interstate, the entire carrier bearing locked up, thus exploding the rear end The easiest method we did was to find another rear end as we don't have the talent to rebuild one properly, nor were all the pieces found after collecting all the LBC parts so not to get a littering the hiway ticket! Donald Henry Stike *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Compression Ratios
I don't think the '76 US market 1500 had a 9:1 compression. It did use a flat top piston which is where the confusion lies, but the cylinder head was higher to lower the compression. Compression had to be lowered to meet US emissions. Can someone from the old country confirm this? Gene Eighmy Flat top pistons and emissions are the answers I believe. I have a 76 myself. On Wed, 26 May 2004 14:11 , [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: Does anyone know why the '76 Spitfire 1500 (fed.) had a comp. ratio of 9.00:1 and all of the others from '73-80 were 7.50:1? How'd they accomplish that and why go back? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Compression Ratios
Howard just sent this clarification to me. Sorry for my confusion: --- The 76 Spit did/does have 9.1:1 compression from the factory, as I have one too. The owners manual states that we are to use 93/94 octane due to high compression. The following year, 77 unleaded fuel was mandatory on Spits and the engines were adjusted back down on compression and cat converter was added for the new emissions standards. To quote The Triumph Spitfire book by Michael Cook, page 57: 1976: Through some technical alchemy, Triumph engineers were able to raise Spitfire compression back to 9 to 1 for non-California cars. This resulted in some performance benefits and in really good gas mileage - up to 37 mpg on the highway. The catalyst-equipped California cars continued with 7.5 to 1 compression and 33mpg. .. Howard *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: repainting alternator?
Question: What's the best-color paint for the alternator's pulley/fan blades? Also, what's the appropriate color for the alternator body? The Pulley and alternator body should be glossy black. For the alternator fan blades, try using aluminum colored brake paint. It isn't real bright aluminum like the 1200 degree ceramic paint, but more like brushed aluminum or pewter. It looks clean and original and is designed to keep dust from sticking. I used some on my wiper motor extrusions and it works great. Gene '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee TSV http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
FINALLY my Spitfire runs! Thanks listers!
Tonight I took the maiden voyage of my rebuilt 79 Spitfire. After 7 years as a garage decoration, it is running, and thanks for all the help from many of you on the lists. Had there been a list back then, it probably would not have sat dormant all these years. I finished the rebuild last February but wasn't able to get it to fire. After replacing ignition, coil, a carb from razorbob, timing check, and even dumping oil in the sparkplug holes, I couldn't get it to fire. And the reason... the supplier put Spridget 1275cc rings in with my Spitfire 1500cc flat-top +.020 pistonsArgh!! Lesson: Measure twice, cut once. Thanks again for all the support and help! Gene NASS #275 '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee TSV http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: NASS ZS heat shield - Follow-up
Anyone out there have a drawing/sketch of the stock heat shield for ZS carb? I'd like to see the original design before I start cutting my own variant. TIA, as always. Bill and I worked on this drawing. If anyone needs a dimensioned drawing, go to: http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire/img/ZS-Heat%20Shield.pdf Gene NASS #275 '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee TSV http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: dead or just tired engine?
But today - it started going down - in the end idle was giving no pressure - and the most it was giving me was 25psi! 25 PSI at idle is about right. My '79 and '73 both ran down to 25 PSI after a long run. Gene *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Questions about engine rebuild and machine shop work
Not all Cylinder Heads are alike... There are several different cylinder heads for the 1500. Changing out to Flat-top pistons with a low-compression USA Head will give you about ~8.2:1. I ended up skimming about .060 of my head to get over 9:1 compression and others have told me they skimmed .100 to get 9.5:1. If you have your head off, you can see some cast marks that look like they shouldn't be there... I believe Triumph was making modifications to the head height so they could pass US emissions. I have before and after pictures of the cast marks on my web site: http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire/index.htm Also, you have to read John Davies' excellent article on raising compression: http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/skimming_your_head.shtml Also, Paul Tegler has some info on non-1500 engines at: http://teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spitheads.htm Flat top pistons will give you a theoretical 9:1 compression ratio. I have heard that you can go up to 9.75:1 and still use pump gas. CR will change a little bit depending on how much your head is milled (if at all), and how big of an oversize piston you will need. You will probably want to cc the combustion chamber (measure the volume in the head, in other words) and use that together with the stroke to calculate CR. There should be some info in the arhives on how to do this. Or someone else can chime in. *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: (No Subject) Phosphated - Colour-Dyed Conrod Bolts
I don't know enough to say if you can split the torque values or not. Phosphated Bolts are black and I'm not sure about colour-dyed. They should be Phosphated but call Nigel at Spitbits to be sure or ask a mechanic who knows the difference. Gene NASS #275 '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee TSV http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire Right now I would really like some advise from someone who has used the original connecting rod bolts that nigel sells on spit bits... my manual says there are two different types of bolts availible, on requires a torque of 46ft lbs and the other 50 ft lbs, which one are these?? the are not the star pattern racing ones would i be safe to go in between the two at 48ft lbs of torque? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Spit for sale the Triumph Retrieval Run
So On that Spitfire for Sale... do you deliver? :-O Loved the story! BTW, are all Spitfire drivers Hams? You're the fourth I have run across. Before cell phones, I never left home without at least a 2-meter rig with Autopatch. Maybe there is a connection! Gene W4EAE *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: and then we go to bolts..
I recently bought conrod bolts from Spitbits and the main reason was that the Bentley Official Shop Manual used very strong language about using new bolts and not renewing the old. Since my engine rebuild cost around $700, another $50 for new bolts was worth the insurance. Gene So I have ordered a set of connecting rod bolts from spitbits, I wanted to go with arp's, but the price set of a signal in my brain reminding me, I will rebuilding the old engine soon, and that is the one I wish to pour the extra cash into, I'm assuming these original bolts should do fine, Im I right? if not someone let me know so I can buy the arp's and sell the others on e-bay ; ) *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Nuts and Bolts
Good luck finding a Hardware Store these days... Home Depot and Lowes have run the *real* hardware stores out of business. I have yet to find exact matches. Most of the bolts are UNF 5/16 and UNF 3/8 which limits the choices and the lengths are in 1/8 increments while hardware stores will have lengths in 1/2 increments. Also, be careful with anything inside the engine. These are tempered for a high-torque and are not OTS. For generic hardware, you might try finding a fastener supply house in your area but you may end up buying by the gross. The closest thing I have seen to a Bolt List is the Torque chart in the Bentley Shop Manual. Between it and the exploded views, you could put together a decent list with a little trial and error. I still think it's cheaper to order from Spitbits... Gene for every nut and bolt.. but the point if this note is this: I'd like to go to the hardware store with a list of bolt sizes, etc. example, 3/8ths by 4 in bolt... and fill up my basket with my complete list. Is there a 'list' of nuts and bolts sizes, quantity, etc? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: New to the list
Welcome! I've had my 79 for the past 22 years and even a small toolbox would get me back home. A carry-on toolbox must at least include: 1. 7/16 wrench 2. Two 1/2 wrenches (second required to loosen alternator mount) 3. 9/16 wrench 4. Flat blade Screwdriver 5. Philips Head Screwdriver 6. Pliers 7. Small Voltmeter 8. Spare fuses 9. Fan Belt 10. 5/8 Heater Hose with clamps 11. Bicycle brake cables 12. Gallon of Distilled Water 13. Duct Tape 14. Coat Hanger 15. Hairbrush (when I had hair) 16. Cell Phone (previously was a quarter for payphone) 17. Bicycle (for long trips) :-) Gene '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee Triumph Tow Truck http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire Hello! I recently bought a very nice original 1979 Triumph Spitfire. Original paint, no rust. New Crane ignition and Weber carbs. I might go with a Monza exhaust soon, but we'll see. This is my first Triumph (LBC). What do you all recommend that one carrys with the car in terms of parts and tools? *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: In boot - was: New to the list
A roll of what we call Duct Tape. NASCAR calls it 200 MPH tape since they have plenty of money and they buy to match the color of the race car. For us common folk, ours is silver. Fixes many things; Busted water hose Fuel line leaks Ragged tops Instant seat repair Passengers that bitch about my driving ability And in Alabama they call it CHROME! Ha! You must be from Georgia! I heard that the Georgia Wal-Marts stock Duct Tape in the Shoe Department. :-0 Gene Birmingham, AL *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: induction pickup for spark plug wire
Since the voltage is pretty high, the induction pickup can be as simple as some magnet wire coiled around the HT lead. If you just wanted to light up some LEDS, you could drive some opto-isolators and tie their outputs to LEDs. You may even get by with driving a transistor directly as long as you clamp the base with a zener. If you wanted to get real fancy, you could run the 4 pickups into a micro and slow down the LED transitions until you got something that looked cool. You could also have it latch a misfire warning LED when one cylinder misses. Wire up a LCD and you could even display RPM... a shift-now light... bar graph RPM indication... even a flux capacitor control for time travel! Oops... got carried away... Gene '79 Spitfire 1500 '88 Jeep Cherokee TSV http://webpages.charter.net/eighmy/spitfire Here's one for you electronics people... Anyone know how to make an induction pickup? Might sound odd - but I have this feeling in the back of my head that my engine misfires every so often... I thought it would be most useful to build a device with 4 LEDs on - each one hooked to an induction pickup on each HT lead... I'd get a cool Night Rider style effect at idle too... *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
RE: Fuel line?
Does any one know of a better book or drawing that shows the fuel line more in depth? The Bentley Complete Official Triumph Spitfire 1500 Workshop Manual is extremely detailed and has loads of drawings. It is the only manual you will ever need and I highly recommend investing in one if you plan on doing any repairs. Gene Eighmy *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
