[biofuel] Re: Colour of latest batch
I realise that mostly no where else cooks in animal fats, but here is Australia they use beef tallow. This has a very high beta carotene levels due to the feed the animals eat, grass, this makes lovely burgundy coloured biodiesel which like shorteneing has a higher cetane rating due to the large amount of embodied energy in the animals fat. Saturated fats are good for fuel not for people. Just do not try it outside of a temperate climate, it gels at quite a high temperature. The moral of this story is that not all biodiesel is straw coloured! Matt --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, gregg2560 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi All, I'm at a bit of a loss regarding the colour of my latest batch of biodiesel. It is a medium amber rather than pale straw yellow. This particular batch went through about 8 washes. The water in the first one or two was quite milky as expected, washes 3 - 6 got increasingly clear, the last 2 looked like clean water. I checked the pH it was 6.8 to 7.2. I also did the shake test, the BD water separated within 30 - 45 minutes. The only thing I can think of is that this batch was made from vegetable shortening rather than oil. I'm wondering if maybe I should run it back through the process (Aleks Kac Method). As always, any help, advice, or suggestions are appreciated. Sincerely, Gregg Davidson Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ~-- Make a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar. Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free! http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/FGYolB/TM ~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: looking for a biodiesel 4x4 station wagon
Well if your Biodeisel is top notch, try a Peugeot 406 HDi Wagon for size, common rail and it should work. I am going to buy a 307 HDi and try it for size, not quite as big but modern styling, I would prefer the 406 but you just cannot buy one second hand in Australia, no reseels their, they like them too much! Matt --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Adam Monsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you can, I haven't been able to find one! That /would/ be my ideal vehicle, though. --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Steven Pfaff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can't you get the 4motion on a TDI Volkswagen Jetta wagon? Adam Monsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:Anyone know a manufacturer that produces diesel 4x4 station wagons? I can't find one anywhere. Or how about a 4x4 diesel coupe? Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Make a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar. Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free! http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: Biodiesel burns hotter or cooler?
Keith et al, I cannot explian why it is so but a compression engine is not the same as an ignition engine, meaning that in a diesel leaner means cooler, richer means hotter. So this may go to explaining a few things. Also wear as a product of conbustion temperature is one thing, biodiesel earns its stripes by lubricating better, and mainting its viscosity better as temperature rises prior to injection as well. By doing this it keeps all the fuel injection system better lubricated and hence the probable lower wear characteristics. I hope this is not repeating anyone else. Regards, Matt --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I got this enquiry below, but it baffles my brain cell. Would the all-wise among us be able to shed the clear light of reason, if not unbaffle my brain cell? Thankyou! There is also this: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/BIOFUEL/28554/ Explanation for higher NOx emissions? Best Keith One thing, which is a bit strange (or not, read on) that I noticed, is that all data states that biodiesel burns hotter than dino. I drove on dino for 10 days, a habit of mine before each winter comes. The exhaust is nice and cool. Allegedly, bio is burning much leaner, it needs less oxygen, but is given the same mass of air as dino. Leaner flames burn hotter, i.e. damage on the exhaust pipes on lean burning engines. Hence high NOx. The hotter burning also keeps the burning chamber clean, and this is observed several times, once even by me. Also folks using bio for heating say it burns hotter, keeping the fireboxes a nice grey-white color instead of brown-black (Home Power magazine, you can look it up on the internet). So, which is it? I've always had the feeling that we (the biodiesel grassroots community) state that bio burns cooler, hence less wear on engines? Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: immersion heaters
--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Alan Petrillo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Rodney Hadley wrote: I have started to make a processor out of a hot water heater, and my thoughts are that I will have to remove the existing heating elements due to them being submerged in oil. No, that won't be necessary. They'll probably be fine. Just take your 220v elements and feed them 110v and you won't have any problems with the elements overheating. Absolutley spot on, but make a rough extimate of the elements area of contact with the oil (length*pi*radius squared) and make sure the output will be around or less than 3W/sq cm, this will ensure no burning of the oil whilst heating. Elsewise you will need to stir while heating. I'm pretty sure that the combination of the heating element and the oil will end in a fire. Is this correct? Well, yes and no. The combination of heating element, oil, and _air_ will end in fire. If you take the air out of the equasion, I.E. by keeping your element submerged, then you won't have a problem. I have heard of many people using immersion heaters, what type will be best for heating oil? The one that will fit into your processor. The physically larger the better. About the best thing you can do is use the largest 220v element that will fit into the hole, and feed it 110v. Did you mean to say existing heating elements? Are there two, then you should have no trouble. Use ohms law, Power = Current squared times resistance. The resistance will be the same on either voltage so it a simple calculation. Contact a specialist hot water / element manufacturer, and get a nice long element to fit. I did and they are wonderful (2 of) and they are feed in series on 240VAC to drop the power to the desired level. Always used fully submerged of course. regards, Matt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: oil transfer pump, 55 gal processor
Alan Petrillo wrote: Do you do this by varying your input voltage/current, or by attaching a big heat sink? I do not need to alter voltage or current, the elements I use are 1800W but are over 2 metres in length and approx 1 cm wide. this makes for an energy density of 1800 / (200 * 1 * 3.14) which is less than 3w/sq cm. Todd is also on the mark, my tank is insulated and has a bolt on lid with a seal. A waste of energy otherwise, th only downside is the bottom is not yet insulated and causes interesting stratification of thermal layers, pumping fixes / mixes this. One of the thoughts I've had was to make something like an electric frying pan. What you have with and electric frying pan is basically a 110v 1500W heating element which has been fused into a BIG heat sink. I'm not real sure what you'd do about electrical connections, but it'd be interesting to try. Again heat density is an issue, as well as the electrical connections as you pointed out. Ah. Most of the water heater elements I see over here are elongated U shapes. I suppose for that you'd take the diameter of the element and the total length of the element rather than the length of the bent shape. It would be twice the length of the bent shape plus half a circle the radius of the width of the U. Do I have that right? Yes you are right, my elements are doubled over yet again so a 50 cm element has 4 lengths and three curves! It depends. Most of the ones I see around here, particularly if they're 110v are 1500W. The 220v ones are usually around 2000W, with a few as high as 3000W. In this case wire two elements in series and cut their output by a quarter. This is a very good option and is the simplest and cheapest way to go. So and 1800W element now puts out 450W, two give 900W which is much more useable and safer (oil wise) as it heats slower. The 220V 2000W elements on 110 V output approx 1000W, put two of these in series and get 500W Isn't that what this exercise is all about? Have fun, and be good for the environment while doing it. Absolutely! MP Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for Your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at Myinks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/l.m7sD/LIdGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: oil transfer pump, 55 gal processor
My 2 cents, put the electrical element horizonatlly, makes for better convective heating than when its vertical. Matt --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Kaj [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Just building my first big processor, using a 55 gal drum, I've done some small 5 gallon buvket batches with great success thanks to all your input and the journey to forever site and Tickells book. I am having a cone bottom welded on and a 1 coupling to accept a std. hot water heater element.(where should i place the element? i'm thinking low on the cone) I wanted to ask a few questions and get some of your thoughts based on your experiences. A,) If I use the circulation method to mix the reaction(using a pump), where should i put the intake? down on the cone?, and should I just use a hose for the exhaust. I wonder where to put it because I may have very different size batches. Do i need to avoid splashing? my other option is to use an old trolling motor I have for mixing. Anyone tried this? B.) Home depot has a $79 utiltiy pump I think its a 1/3 hp. Talks about water in the description, never about oil or fuels. Does anyone just use a regular water pump like this? Or is it dangerous? wear out faster? How about with straight petrol fuel oil. Someone locally is giving away their 250 gal fuel tank, if I remove the 100 gal. of fuel in there. Is this a dangerous proposition with just a regular pump? How are fuel rated pumps any different? Thanks very very much. I am collecting 10gal/week from a chinese restaurant and need to get cooking soon. Word has spread and I am already being offered more oil..delivered to my house no less!!! - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for Your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at Myinks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/l.m7sD/LIdGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: oil transfer pump, 55 gal processor
Matt Pozzi wrote: My 2 cents, put the electrical element horizonatlly, makes for better convective heating than when its vertical. AP wote Put it on the barrel just above the joint of the barrel to the cone. And when heating your oil with a water heater element it's best to heat while stirring. Otherwise you risk overheating the element and burning it out. Indeed Alan you are right, I should have added that keeping the energy density of the element low prevents localises heating resulting in burning of the oil and destruction of the element too. I keep mine to below 3W/sq cm and rely on convection heating, if you are using higher energy densities, STIR it otherwise it may well burn out prematurely. The energy desity is element output divided by length x Diameter x 3. 14. All dimensions I use are metric centimeters. YMMV Water elements are typically about 1200 W and are short in length resulting in high energy densities. Have fun, Matt Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for Your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at Myinks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/l.m7sD/LIdGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[biofuel] Re: biodiesel layers
Brent most likely soaps, hope that helps. Answered since no one else has yet. Matt --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, Brent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Did another batch and got that thin layer between the glycerine and the diesel. Remind me again what it is. Thanx Brent Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for Your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at Myinks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/l.m7sD/LIdGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
