Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R

I mounted mine in a cabinet along with a power line filter
and power supply.  Pics at www.omen.com/wa7kgx.ham.html
The filter is important if you are a ham or SWL.

The temp hangs around 35C.  The cat likes to sit on it as it
is slightly warm.

The Rb oscillator and its 15 volt power supply have been
removed.

--
Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R c...@omen.com   www.omen.com
Developer of Industrial ZMODEM(Tm) for Embedded Applications
  Omen Technology Inc  The High Reliability Software
10255 NW Old Cornelius Pass Portland OR 97231   503-614-0430




___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread d . seiter
When I had my Tbolt running full time, I just had it sitting in the bottom 
corner of a bookcase that was hard to get to (Tek 7104 on a cart packed with 
other gear too was in the way, along with piles of other things). No drafts, so 
the temp stayed pretty constant. It was taken out of full service when I got a 
Z3801. 


I want to build a home for it and my two Rb units in a temp controlled box, but 
haven't gotten there yet. 



-Dave 

- Original Message -
From: Gary Fiber gfi...@comcast.net 
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 4:12:04 PM 
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting 

I have mine in a nice case along with the switcher supply. Am debating on the 
need of including a small fan. I made a shelf from 2 sided PCB material and 
mounted the Thunderbolt onto that shelf. 
The switching power supply sits below the Thunderbolt mounted to the case 
bottom. 

Gary Fiber K8IZ 


Sent from my iPad 

On Jul 11, 2012, at 10:28 AM, Peter Gottlieb n...@verizon.net wrote: 

 I would like to put my Thunderbolt into a chassis with power supply and would 
 like to have the most favorable thermal environment since the unit is 
 somewhat temperature dependent. 
 
 I was thinking of mounting the unit in insulating material, but am worried it 
 will get too hot to the point the temp control loop won't work properly. Has 
 anyone experimented with this and found the best solution? I would like to 
 remove the strong dependence on room temperature that I have currently. 
 
 
 Peter 
 
 On Jul 11, 2012, at 11:18 AM, Gary Fiber gfi...@comcast.net wrote: 
 
 
 I purchased a Trimble Thunderbolt. Is there a web page or does someone have 
 a set of written steps to set up the Thunderbolt? There are quite a few 
 adjustments available for it and it makes sense to me not to reinvent the 
 wheel. I have googled and got some results using Tboltmon. Have tried Lady 
 Heather, but have to figure out just how to utilize that program. 
 Have the Thunderbolt, a Mean Well 60 watt supply, have I hope is a decent 
 antenna arriving Friday. Am intending on using the 19 MHz output for a time 
 base for my HP-8935A and HP-8656B. 
 
 Gary Fiber K8IZ 
 Sent from my iPad 
 ___ 
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com 
 To unsubscribe, go to 
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts 
 and follow the instructions there. 
 
 ___ 
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com 
 To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts 
 and follow the instructions there. 

___ 
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com 
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts 
and follow the instructions there. 
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread gary
Just thinking outside of the Styrofoam box, wouldn't an analog 
controller on the fan be better? That is use a DC fan and adjust the 
current to change the speed.



On 7/11/2012 8:54 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 6:55 PM, Mark Spencer mspencer12...@yahoo.cawrote:


I tried putting my thunderbolt in a styrofoam box.   It got hotter than I
liked and didn't seem to perform any better than when I left it in a
cardboard box.

I worry about the long term implications for component life as the
temperature goes up.



The advantage of the insulation comes in when you build the fan controller.
   Mine uses a temperature sensor and an IC comparator that drives a
transistor that drives a 12V fan.  The fan does on when the set point is
reached then goes off.  If you set the operating point a little higher then
the inside of yur house then the fan cycles and keeps the inside of the box
and roughly, more or less constant.   The parts to build a fan controller
are about $5

If you don't have a temperature controlled fan then the next best thing is
a well vented cardboard box whose only purpose is to keep air currents off
the unit. Insulation without an active temperature controller is only going
to make it hotter, not more stable

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.




___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Magnus Danielson

On 07/12/2012 05:54 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:

On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 6:55 PM, Mark Spencermspencer12...@yahoo.cawrote:


I tried putting my thunderbolt in a styrofoam box.   It got hotter than I
liked and didn't seem to perform any better than when I left it in a
cardboard box.

I worry about the long term implications for component life as the
temperature goes up.



The advantage of the insulation comes in when you build the fan controller.
   Mine uses a temperature sensor and an IC comparator that drives a
transistor that drives a 12V fan.  The fan does on when the set point is
reached then goes off.  If you set the operating point a little higher then
the inside of yur house then the fan cycles and keeps the inside of the box
and roughly, more or less constant.   The parts to build a fan controller
are about $5


You *really* don't want an on/off regulation scheme. The OCXO gets 
dynamic thermal stress from it which causes it to go off in frequency as 
the heat wave (or cooling wave) comes in and has a rate faster than the 
oven can steer. The oven gain will be much less than for slow 
semi-static temperature changes. Old ovens used on/off schemes, but it 
was dropped as electronics allowed for continuous feedback loops.


You will see a bump in your ADEV at about the cycling period of your 
fan. If you have quick cycling period, it will affect your close in 
phase noise and ADEV, but you might suppress your room/house AC/heating 
loop. If you run continuous, there will be a much quieter response.


Another side-effect of cycling power for an OCXO is that it will for 
each cycle shifts its phase. The OCXO control will return it to 
temperature as fast as it can, which should return it to frequency. What 
happens is that the curve around the balancing point isn't completely 
symmetric, but the heat-up/cool-off temperature profile certainly isn't. 
The end result becomes that the frequency error under the curve isn't 0 
over such a cycle, and that integrated over time will become phase. So, 
this unstable phase creep will keep the control loop active to fight it 
back, until you reach holdover, when the error will be exposed completely.


I've learned this the hard way, from observing frequency and phase 
fluctuations and fighting them.



If you don't have a temperature controlled fan then the next best thing is
a well vented cardboard box whose only purpose is to keep air currents off
the unit. Insulation without an active temperature controller is only going
to make it hotter, not more stable


Using a cardboard box or other wall around the oscillator will as a 
passive oven work well, if the unit is still allowed to dissipate it's 
excess heat to the surrounding. The effect is really great and helps the 
control loop as temperature shifts occurs more gradually such that the 
control loop can track it within it's bandwidth. Long term temperature 
shifts like the bang-bang regulator of the building AC/heating will 
still eat into the box.


Cheers,
Magnus

___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Proper setup of a Trimble Thunderbolt

2012-07-12 Thread Azelio Boriani
I think that the only action is to wipe out any old setup present (use the
TBolt monitor program), especially a previous position hold setting. You
know, timing receivers have the position hold capability and it is
mandatory to restart the survey for your location.
I have 2 TBolts but (what a shame for me) never tried to start them up so I
cannot be more practical like go there, click that, check this and so on. I
use an HP Z3815A as a reference and have yet to prepare a good linear power
supply for the TBolts.

On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 1:09 AM, Gary Fiber gfi...@comcast.net wrote:

 Yes it was a typo meant 10 MHz. I've got the readme for Lady Heather and
 will go through it. I was hopeful someone had any needed basic settings for
 the Thunderbolt otherwise I will leave it as it came out of the box from
 the seller.

 Gary Fiber K8IZ

 Sent from my iPad

 On Jul 11, 2012, at 10:36 AM, Azelio Boriani azelio.bori...@screen.it
 wrote:

  10MHz output you mean, not 19MHz, surely it was a typo. Yes, best to use
  LadyHeather: learn how to use and you will have the best monitoring
 utility
  for the TBolt.
 
  On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 5:18 PM, Gary Fiber gfi...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 
  I purchased a Trimble Thunderbolt. Is there a web page or does someone
  have a set of written steps to set up the Thunderbolt? There are quite a
  few adjustments available for it and it makes sense to me not to
 reinvent
  the wheel. I have googled and got some results using Tboltmon. Have
 tried
  Lady Heather, but have to figure out just how to utilize that program.
  Have the Thunderbolt, a Mean Well 60 watt supply, have I hope is a
 decent
  antenna arriving Friday. Am intending on using the 19 MHz output for a
 time
  base for my HP-8935A and HP-8656B.
 
  Gary Fiber K8IZ
  Sent from my iPad
  ___
  time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
  To unsubscribe, go to
  https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
  and follow the instructions there.
 
  ___
  time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
  To unsubscribe, go to
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
  and follow the instructions there.

 ___
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
 To unsubscribe, go to
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
 and follow the instructions there.

___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Jim Lux

On 7/11/12 7:00 PM, Mike S wrote:

On 7/11/2012 8:15 PM, Chris Wilson wrote:

Does anyone know if there's a means to log max and min temps for these
things? I was going to make a crude box for mine out of 2 inch cavity
wall
insulation hard foam,


The TB reports it's own temperature. Lady Heather will track it.

I'm surprised no one has mounted one to a Peltier cooler, and stabilized
the temp with PID control, based on the self-reported temp. Why not run
it cooler than ambient? I'd assume a simple microcontroller could handle
the task, but don't have any deep PID control knowledge myself.



PID controller code for Arduinos and the like is readily available..

However, as to why not run it cooler?

The internal oven tries to keep the crystal at the temperature where the 
frequency vs temp curve has the lowest slope.  If you cool the outside, 
then you just burn more power in the internal oven.


___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Magnus Danielson

On 07/12/2012 03:22 PM, Jim Lux wrote:

On 7/11/12 7:00 PM, Mike S wrote:

On 7/11/2012 8:15 PM, Chris Wilson wrote:

Does anyone know if there's a means to log max and min temps for these
things? I was going to make a crude box for mine out of 2 inch cavity
wall
insulation hard foam,


The TB reports it's own temperature. Lady Heather will track it.

I'm surprised no one has mounted one to a Peltier cooler, and stabilized
the temp with PID control, based on the self-reported temp. Why not run
it cooler than ambient? I'd assume a simple microcontroller could handle
the task, but don't have any deep PID control knowledge myself.



PID controller code for Arduinos and the like is readily available..

However, as to why not run it cooler?

The internal oven tries to keep the crystal at the temperature where the
frequency vs temp curve has the lowest slope. If you cool the outside,
then you just burn more power in the internal oven.


You can run it at higher temperature if you maintain that actively. 
There is a balance between elevated temperature and shorting of life 
that way and elevated oven current and shorting of life that way.


Whatever cooling mechanism used (and a PID controller is a good start) a 
linear control is recommended.


Cheers,
Magnus

___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


[time-nuts] Temperature control/isolation of T-bolts...

2012-07-12 Thread Michael Baker

Time-Nutters--

Some years ago I ran some experiments trying to improve
on the temperature control of a circuit board with a reference
oscillator and other heat producing items on it.   I quickly
discovered that enclosing it in a small Styrofoam container
jacked the temperature up wy to high.Eventually, I tried
putting it in a large picnic sized Styrofoam container.   This
worked much better.   The inside temperature did go up,
but not so much as to be a problem.   At some point the size
of the container provided enough heat loss so as not to
overheat the circuitry but also provided a lot of thermal
isolation from ambient room temperature changes.  I
monitored the inside temperature of the Styrofoam box
with an HP-Agilent precision lab-grade quartz thermometer
borrowed from the physics lab at the Univ of Flori-DUH.

Mike Baker
--




___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Temperature control/isolation of T-bolts...

2012-07-12 Thread Hal Murray

mp...@clanbaker.org said:
 Eventually, I tried putting it in a large picnic sized Styrofoam container.
  This worked much better.   The inside temperature did go up, but not so
 much as to be a problem.   At some point the size of the container provided
 enough heat loss so as not to overheat the circuitry but also provided a lot
 of thermal isolation from ambient room temperature changes

Did you have anything else in the box to increase thermal mass?  Water?  
Bricks?  Cast iron?


-- 
These are my opinions.  I hate spam.




___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Fan mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Don Latham
fan designed for variable speed plus finned heatsink plus temp sensor
(sometimes) in a neat package from any old computer cpu cooler...
Don

WarrenS
 Mark

 Although Lady Heather's temperature controller can hold the temp at the
 TBolt's sensor constant to delta 0.000x deg over 72 hrs,
 this does not hold the temperature at the oscillator close enough to
 maintain an exact constant frequency because the TBolt's sensor location
 is not at the OCXO.
 The change of the Oscillator's open loop freq vs. room temp can be seen
 when the room temp is also plotted and compared to the DAC voltage in an
 extended length LH plot.

 What Lady Heater does is plenty good enough for most, but if you want to
 be even more nuts (and who wouldn't),
 there are still further improvements possible that can eliminate all of
 the TBolt's OCXO sensitivity to small room temperature changes.

 1) One way to improve LH's temp control, which is not very practical and
 not recommended, is to reposition the TB's temp sensor.  :(

 2) There are several ways that Lady Heather could be modified, to change
 the control loop set point a little as a function of room temp.

 3) The simple mechanical way that I use to minimize any remaining
 variation due to room temperature changes when using LH's temperature
 control loop
  is to adjust the position the LH controlled fan to compensate for the
 difference between the TB's sensor and it's oscillator.

 Shown in the attachment,
 I placed the stock Tbolt in a tight fitting foam lined small box where
 only the top case of the TBolt's is exposed.
 This minimizes temperature gradients on the case and causes the TB's
 temperature to rise a safe amount.
 I use a small 12v, 1W fan loosely mounted to the top to a 1/4 inch sheet
 of aluminum plate that sits on top of the TBolt.
 For course adjustment, I change the position of the aluminum plate on
 the TB.
 For fine adjustment, I change the location of the fan a little so that
 it is blowing air at a different spot on the plate.

 Not shown in the attachment, is a small insulator / deflector that only
 allows fan air to blow on the aluminum plate, not on the TBolt's exposed
 upper case.
 This insulator and the foam forces most all of TBolt cooling to go thru
 the 1/4 inch aluminum heat sink plate.
 I can then adjust the fan position so that there is no visible effect on
 the TBolt's OCXO due to small daily room temperature changes.

 The power supply I'm using is stable enough that I have not seen any
 TBolt changes when the PS is heated with a hair dryer or the line
 voltage is changed by large amounts with a variac.

 ws

 **

 Mark posted:
 I tried putting a Tbolt in a small (six-pack sized) Coleman cooler.
 The temperature rose above the alarm temperature...  it does not take
 much insulation to cause problems.

 Lady Heather's built in temperature PID controller works very well.
 When properly set it up,  short term variations can be well under 20
 millidegrees.   Long term RMS temperature error can be a few
 microdegrees or less.   Attached is a screen dump showing a 0
 microdegree RMS temp error over 72 hours!

 Besides the TT command to set the desired setpoint temperature,  there
 are some built in PID parameter commands (KW sets a slow pid,KM sets
 a fast pid,  KA attempts a PID autotune...  you can also tweak the
 various PID parameters individually...  see the routine edit_pid_value()
 in heathui.cpp for some idea of the available parameters).

 For best performance,  it helps to have the power supply in the
 temperature controlled box.  This will minimize the effects of
 temperature variation on the supply,  which can be a third of the
 overall system temperature sensitivity.   It is also a good idea to not
 have the box so well sealed that the unit overheats if the
 computer/PID/fan shuts down.  You probably don't want a flammable box in
 case your cheapo Chinese power supply bursts into flame.

 For best operation of a new Tbolt,  you should first run the 48 hour
 precision survey,  then execute the a auto-tune command.  Autotune sets
 the oscillator parameters,  elevation mask,  and signal level mask to
 time-nutty values.  Before running a,  first set the elevation mask to
 a low value and collect data for a couple of hours.   This lets the
 program find the satellite elevation angle where the signal starts to
 degrade.

 Note that it can take several weeks for an old, unused oscillator to
 fully stabilize and age in.

 ___
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
 To unsubscribe, go to
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
 and follow the instructions there.


-- 
Neither the voice of authority nor the weight of reason and argument
are as significant as experiment, for thence comes quiet to the mind.
R. Bacon
If you don't know what it is, don't poke it.
Ghost in the Shell


Dr. Don Latham AJ7LL
Six Mile Systems LLP
17850 Six Mile Road

Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R

Sorry about the bad URL. I corrected it below.
On 07/12/2012 12:22 AM, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote:

I mounted mine in a cabinet along with a power line filter
and power supply.  Pics at www.omen.com/wa7kgx/ham.html
The filter is important if you are a ham or SWL.

The temp hangs around 35C.  The cat likes to sit on it as it
is slightly warm.

The Rb oscillator and its 15 volt power supply have been
removed.


The Tbolt in its cabinet currently sits atop my office computer,
next to a south facing window.  Putting it in a dark corner would
doubtlessly improve its temperature stability but the cat would be
disappointed.

--
Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R c...@omen.com   www.omen.com
Developer of Industrial ZMODEM(Tm) for Embedded Applications
  Omen Technology Inc  The High Reliability Software
10255 NW Old Cornelius Pass Portland OR 97231   503-614-0430



attachment: tbolt.gif___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Said Jackson
Sorry guys, but using a fan on a thunderbolt is nuts. Not time nuts.

First you get ADEV humps as discussed here. Then the fan vibrations will show 
up as massive spurs in the phase noise plots. Then the fan's commutator emi 
will go everywhere. Then the fan may modulate the supply voltage going into the 
thunderbolt if the same supply is used -not good.

Get a better docxo and replace the thunderbolt oven, done. If you need the best 
thermal stability. Shield it from airflow as best as possible. That should do 
it.

Bye,
Said

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 12, 2012, at 12:05, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R c...@omen.com wrote:

 Sorry about the bad URL. I corrected it below.
 On 07/12/2012 12:22 AM, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R wrote:
 I mounted mine in a cabinet along with a power line filter
 and power supply.  Pics at www.omen.com/wa7kgx/ham.html
 The filter is important if you are a ham or SWL.
 
 The temp hangs around 35C.  The cat likes to sit on it as it
 is slightly warm.
 
 The Rb oscillator and its 15 volt power supply have been
 removed.
 
 The Tbolt in its cabinet currently sits atop my office computer,
 next to a south facing window.  Putting it in a dark corner would
 doubtlessly improve its temperature stability but the cat would be
 disappointed.
 
 -- 
 Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R c...@omen.com   www.omen.com
 Developer of Industrial ZMODEM(Tm) for Embedded Applications
  Omen Technology Inc  The High Reliability Software
 10255 NW Old Cornelius Pass Portland OR 97231   503-614-0430
 
 
 
 tbolt.gif
 ___
 time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
 To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
 and follow the instructions there.

___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


[time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Mark Sims

Nope,  if implemented properly it works VERY well.   No ADEV humps,  no 
vibration induced spurs,  no commutator EMI,  no power supply garbage.   

Lady Heather's PID PWMs the fan to control the speed.  It is not a bang-bang 
controller.   You should baffle the air flow so that it does not impinge 
directly on the unit.  I have the tbolt sitting on a piece of waffle foam in 
the box...  gives very good vibration isolation,  but even without it I saw no 
fan related noise/spurs.   Proper power supply filtering for the fan power 
might be useful,  but I see no coupling on mine.

As the Wise Man said...  one experiment is worth 1000 opinions.

-
Sorry guys, but using a fan on a thunderbolt is nuts. Not time nuts.
  
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt mounting

2012-07-12 Thread Chris Albertson
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 6:56 PM, Said Jackson saidj...@aol.com wrote:

 Sorry guys, but using a fan on a thunderbolt is nuts. Not time nuts.

 First you get ADEV humps as discussed here. Then the fan vibrations will
 show up as massive spurs in the phase noise plots. Then the fan's
 commutator emi will go everywhere. Then the fan may modulate the supply
 voltage going into the thunderbolt if the same supply is used -not good.


Have you actually tried using a fan and measured EMI and the supply voltage
modulation.  I'm curious how much the fan pulled down the power supply.

Those things could happen but at what level?  Is the effect even
measurable?   I think it might be like standing of a single sheet of paper
so you are taller and can see farther.  Yes in theory it works but the
effect is small.

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.