[vintagvw] Re: Winter modifications and necessities.

2013-10-30 Thread Kyle Davis
I appreciate the low budget tips.

I am planning on utilizing this one a lot. I need a new front apron, and I
figure towels placed appropriately will go a long way to keeping a bit of
the cold out.

Kyle

On Wednesday, October 30, 2013, Gerald Livingston wrote:

 The heat in a beetle only has to travel about 2 feet to get inside the
 cab. My '69 had air leaks all over the place but the heat would melt
 anything left on the rear floor and I had the sneakers to prove it.

 My problem was that I had a bent boot lid. So, all the hair was burned
 off the back of my calves but I had to wear HEAVY gloves to keep my
 fingers from getting frostbitten from the cold air blowing through the
 dash at 75 or 80mph.

 If your boot leaks any air at all then get a couple of heavy moving
 blankets to line it during the winter.

 G2

 On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 14:34:53 -0400
 Dan Moy sole...@gmail.com javascript:; wrote:

  Here is my check list:
 
  (1) Make sure that the carburetor risers are clean
  (2) Clean and adjust your choke
  (3) Insure that the temperature control is working (the bellows
  underneath the engine that controls the cooling flaps)
  (4) Use the recommended oil viscosity for winter use
  (5) Check the heater boxes and channels, I have had many bugs and
  when the system is in order the car will keep you warm enough where
  you need to open the window in the winter.
  (6) RainX on the windshield
  (7) New windshield wipers
 
  I will not make oil recommendations other than what I believe some
  experts have already stated as they have done testing regarding oil
  and our air cooled engines and transmissions: aircooledtechnology,
  lnengineering, aircooled.net, lowbudget.com, geneberg
 
 
  On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 2:21 PM, Kyle 01ksda...@gmail.comjavascript:;
 wrote:
 
   I'm in Central Indiana.
  
   We're looking at a bad winter here. Usually means at least a week of
   subzero temperatures.
  
   Also, snow and ice aplenty, if the farmers almanac can be trusted.
  
   Oh yeah, believe I'm running the stock solex 30 pict 2 carb.
  
   Kyle

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[vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

2013-10-30 Thread Bert Knupp
Volks,

My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep the
car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a good
quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that Turtle
Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
yet.  

So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I like
the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs, etc.),
so thought I'd buy their product.

I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.  The
finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
products.

What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full season?
I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
wintertime.  

Bert Knupp


 __n|_
  °(_)º
  (ô\_|_/ô)
   U°   °U
 Polizeikäfer '70



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Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

2013-10-30 Thread Dan Moy
Bert,

A few questions:

(1) What color is your car?
(2) When you touch the pain with a clean hand does the surface feel very
smooth?

Here is what I do:

If the paint is rough to your touch I do the following after the car has
been thoroughly cleaned (and not dried, I leave the car wet) if not clean
an wax

(1) Clay Bar
(2) If the paint is scratched machine poslish with 3M Finesse-it
(3) Machine Polish with 3M Imperial hand glaze

Clean the car again to remove all polish residue and dry

For wax my recommendations:

(1) For light colored cars Liquid Glass easy to apply and remove by hand
and lasts a long time

(2) For dark colored cars or black Gliptone Wet Coat /w Carnauba Show
Gloss this is one of the few that do not leave streaks but it is important
to do small areas at a time and use a clean cloth to remove.

Dan-out





On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Kirin Jacobsen kirinjacob...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hey Bert,
 I'm curious did you prep the cars surface properly by removing the old
 waxes? Personally I'm not a big Detailing guy although my bug in its
 latest iteration is far too clean for the likes of me. I have heard good
 things about Griots garage products. Also there is a series on youtube
 called #driveclean that is run by a passionate New Yorker who seems to know
 his stuff. Personally with Mothers Products I have gone through all their
 steps(And claybar too) and been happy with the finish.


 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.netwrote:

 Volks,

 My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep
 the
 car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a
 good
 quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that
 Turtle
 Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
 yet.

 So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
 California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
 their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I
 like
 the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
 advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs,
 etc.),
 so thought I'd buy their product.

 I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
 whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
 also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.
  The
 finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
 The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
 I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
 products.

 What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
 for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full
 season?
 I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
 wintertime.

 Bert Knupp


  __n|_
   °(_)º
   (ô\_|_/ô)
U°   °U
  Polizeikäfer '70



 --
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Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

2013-10-30 Thread Kirin Jacobsen
Hey Bert, unless you have any scratches or oxidization I don't think
abrasive is the way to go with your car. Claybar removes stuck on stuff on
your paint. Its literally a bar of clay that you rub across your paints
finish with a lubricant to pick up the stuck on tar, bird droppings
whatever is stuck on. Before I wax my car I usually use dish soap which
should remove all residual waxes(Car wash soap won't remove wax). I only
dish soap when I want to remove wax and prep the finish. Otherwise Mothers
car wash soap is what I use.. Plus it smells nice! To me it sounds like you
might be dealing with residual wax.  But that's just my take on it.
-Kirin


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 11:23 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Volks,

 Okay, I’m getting some insights.  To answer some of Dan and Kirin’s
 questions:

 =No, I didn’t remove any old wax, though it was about 7 months old and no
 longer beading water – at least, not on the roof or front hood.  I waxed it
 when it was freshly washed but dry.
 =I’m not familiar with Claybar.  I’ll have to look around.  My FLAPS
 doesn’t
 stock it, or I’ve just not noticed the brand.
 =My car is Fir Green with Traffic White fenders (German RAL police colors
 as
 of 1970).
 =The finish feels smooth and does not “pull” as I apply the wax.  As I
 said,
 it has also never had an abrasive polish. Maybe its time is coming for a
 mild polish.
 =I’m listening to you guys’ advice and “pondering these things in my
 heart.”
 I might re-do the project when the weather clears up.

 From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On
 Behalf
 Of Dan Moy
 Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:07 PM
 To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

 Bert,

 A few questions:

 (1) What color is your car?
 (2) When you touch the paint with a clean hand does the surface feel very
 smooth?

 Here is what I do:

 If the paint is rough to your touch I do the following after the car has
 been thoroughly cleaned (and not dried, I leave the car wet) if not clean
 an
 wax

 (1) Clay Bar
 (2) If the paint is scratched machine poslish with 3M Finesse-it
 (3) Machine Polish with 3M Imperial hand glaze

 Clean the car again to remove all polish residue and dry

 For wax my recommendations:

 (1) For light colored cars Liquid Glass easy to apply and remove by hand
 and lasts a long time

 (2) For dark colored cars or black Gliptone Wet Coat /w Carnauba Show
 Gloss this is one of the few that do not leave streaks but it is important
 to do small areas at a time and use a clean cloth to remove.

 Dan-out




 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Kirin Jacobsen kirinjacob...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 Hey Bert,
 I'm curious did you prep the cars surface properly by removing the old
 waxes? Personally I'm not a big Detailing guy although my bug in its
 latest iteration is far too clean for the likes of me. I have heard good
 things about Griots garage products. Also there is a series on youtube
 called #driveclean that is run by a passionate New Yorker who seems to know
 his stuff. Personally with Mothers Products I have gone through all their
 steps(And claybar too) and been happy with the finish.

 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 Volks,

 My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep
 the
 car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a good
 quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that
 Turtle
 Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
 yet.

 So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
 California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
 their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I
 like
 the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
 advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs,
 etc.),
 so thought I'd buy their product.

 I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
 whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
 also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.
  The
 finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
 The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
 I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
 products.

 What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
 for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full season?
 I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
 wintertime.

 Bert Knupp


  __n|_
   °(_)º
   (ô\_|_/ô)
U°   °U
  Polizeikäfer '70



 --
 Visit the VintagVW archives at
 http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 ---

 --
 Visit the VintagVW archives at
 http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 ---
 You received 

Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

2013-10-30 Thread Kirin Jacobsen
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07240.html That is what I use ...


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 11:28 AM, Dan Moy sole...@gmail.com wrote:

 Cool car, I would use the Liquid Glass on the green.

 Clay bar
 https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=lai=CD7DffU9xUprBNJC7ggfU74GYCPbNzt4DtvCe-UueiJn23gEICRAIIN7Nzx4oClCjzISeB2DJxqmLwKTYD6ABwu_A5APIAQeqBCZP0HP3oxr68LZb1Z54p60s9Ito399N34DH6J_FoLtLMb3nXbg3JsAFBaAGJoAHppC_G5AHAeAS4KuQ9cqCsNBksig=AOD64_0bmv9-rrXFQ0esQTJKtFy9BIBevgctype=5ved=0CKABENgpMAcadurl=http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_7110070-P_x_x%3Fcm_mmc%3DACQ-_-Google-_-GPLA-_-7110070%26ci_src%3D17588969%26ci_sku%3D7110070%26ci_gpa%3Dpla%26ci_kw%3D
  is
 a generic name for a bunch of products out there, you might want to try it
 as it is relatively painless and produces great results just make sure the
 car is super wet


 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 2:23 PM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.netwrote:

 Volks,

 Okay, I’m getting some insights.  To answer some of Dan and Kirin’s
 questions:

 =No, I didn’t remove any old wax, though it was about 7 months old and no
 longer beading water – at least, not on the roof or front hood.  I waxed
 it
 when it was freshly washed but dry.
 =I’m not familiar with Claybar.  I’ll have to look around.  My FLAPS
 doesn’t
 stock it, or I’ve just not noticed the brand.
 =My car is Fir Green with Traffic White fenders (German RAL police colors
 as
 of 1970).
 =The finish feels smooth and does not “pull” as I apply the wax.  As I
 said,
 it has also never had an abrasive polish. Maybe its time is coming for a
 mild polish.
 =I’m listening to you guys’ advice and “pondering these things in my
 heart.”
 I might re-do the project when the weather clears up.

 From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On
 Behalf
 Of Dan Moy
 Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 1:07 PM
 To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

 Bert,

 A few questions:

 (1) What color is your car?
 (2) When you touch the paint with a clean hand does the surface feel very
 smooth?

 Here is what I do:

 If the paint is rough to your touch I do the following after the car has
 been thoroughly cleaned (and not dried, I leave the car wet) if not clean
 an
 wax

 (1) Clay Bar
 (2) If the paint is scratched machine poslish with 3M Finesse-it
 (3) Machine Polish with 3M Imperial hand glaze

 Clean the car again to remove all polish residue and dry

 For wax my recommendations:

 (1) For light colored cars Liquid Glass easy to apply and remove by hand
 and lasts a long time

 (2) For dark colored cars or black Gliptone Wet Coat /w Carnauba Show
 Gloss this is one of the few that do not leave streaks but it is
 important
 to do small areas at a time and use a clean cloth to remove.

 Dan-out




 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Kirin Jacobsen kirinjacob...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 Hey Bert,
 I'm curious did you prep the cars surface properly by removing the old
 waxes? Personally I'm not a big Detailing guy although my bug in its
 latest iteration is far too clean for the likes of me. I have heard good
 things about Griots garage products. Also there is a series on youtube
 called #driveclean that is run by a passionate New Yorker who seems to
 know
 his stuff. Personally with Mothers Products I have gone through all their
 steps(And claybar too) and been happy with the finish.

 On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 Volks,

 My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep
 the
 car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a
 good
 quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that
 Turtle
 Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
 yet.

 So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
 California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
 their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I
 like
 the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
 advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs,
 etc.),
 so thought I'd buy their product.

 I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
 whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
 also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.
  The
 finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
 The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
 I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
 products.

 What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
 for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full
 season?
 I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
 wintertime.

 Bert Knupp


  __n|_
   °(_)º
   (ô\_|_/ô)
U°   °U
  Polizeikäfer '70

Re: [vintagvw] Re: Winter modifications and necessities.

2013-10-30 Thread Gerald Livingston
No towels unless you're planning on using so many you can never shower.

I'm in SE Texas and the wind is **COLD** when at commuting speeds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/40-inch-x-72-inch-movers-blanket-47262.html

And if that doesn't stop it all then break out the duct tape and cover
leaks from inside the cab. You can use Goo Gone to clean up when the
sun comes out again.

G2

On Wed, 30 Oct 2013 08:39:53 -0400
Kyle Davis 01ksda...@gmail.com wrote:

 I appreciate the low budget tips.
 
 I am planning on utilizing this one a lot. I need a new front apron,
 and I figure towels placed appropriately will go a long way to
 keeping a bit of the cold out.
 
 Kyle
 
 On Wednesday, October 30, 2013, Gerald Livingston wrote:
 
  The heat in a beetle only has to travel about 2 feet to get inside
  the cab. My '69 had air leaks all over the place but the heat would
  melt anything left on the rear floor and I had the sneakers to
  prove it.
 
  My problem was that I had a bent boot lid. So, all the hair was
  burned off the back of my calves but I had to wear HEAVY gloves to
  keep my fingers from getting frostbitten from the cold air blowing
  through the dash at 75 or 80mph.
 
  If your boot leaks any air at all then get a couple of heavy moving
  blankets to line it during the winter.
 
  G2
 
  On Tue, 29 Oct 2013 14:34:53 -0400
  Dan Moy sole...@gmail.com javascript:; wrote:
 
   Here is my check list:
  
   (1) Make sure that the carburetor risers are clean
   (2) Clean and adjust your choke
   (3) Insure that the temperature control is working (the bellows
   underneath the engine that controls the cooling flaps)
   (4) Use the recommended oil viscosity for winter use
   (5) Check the heater boxes and channels, I have had many bugs and
   when the system is in order the car will keep you warm enough
   where you need to open the window in the winter.
   (6) RainX on the windshield
   (7) New windshield wipers
  
   I will not make oil recommendations other than what I believe some
   experts have already stated as they have done testing regarding
   oil and our air cooled engines and transmissions:
   aircooledtechnology, lnengineering, aircooled.net, lowbudget.com,
   geneberg
  
  
   On Tue, Oct 29, 2013 at 2:21 PM, Kyle
   01ksda...@gmail.comjavascript:;
  wrote:
  
I'm in Central Indiana.
   
We're looking at a bad winter here. Usually means at least a
week of subzero temperatures.
   
Also, snow and ice aplenty, if the farmers almanac can be
trusted.
   
Oh yeah, believe I'm running the stock solex 30 pict 2 carb.
   
Kyle
 
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Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

2013-10-30 Thread Dave C. Bolen

Kirin,

Zaino brothers.period

this stuff is the schnitz!

First time I used it, I tried to look at the flaws in the paint and 
literally could not see them...mostly on base/clearcoat.


Not cheap, but worth a try...and I havetried Mothers and many others 
including meguars(sp)...etc.


Cheers, dave


On Wed, 30 Oct 2013, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:


Hey Bert,
I'm curious did you prep the cars surface properly by removing the old waxes? Personally 
I'm not a big Detailing guy although
my bug in its latest iteration is far too clean for the likes of me. I have 
heard good things about Griots garage products. Also
there is a series on youtube called #driveclean that is run by a passionate New 
Yorker who seems to know his stuff. Personally
with Mothers Products I have gone through all their steps(And claybar too) and 
been happy with the finish.


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Volks,

  My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep 
the
  car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a 
good
  quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that 
Turtle
  Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
  yet.

  So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
  California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
  their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I 
like
  the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
  advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs, 
etc.),
  so thought I'd buy their product.

  I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
  whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
  also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.  
The
  finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
  The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
  I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
  products.

  What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
  for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full 
season?
  I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
  wintertime.

  Bert Knupp


           __n|_
        °(_)º
        (ô\_|_/ô)
         U°       °U
   Polizeikäfer '70



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