Re: [apple-crop-2] Apple leaf disorder

2018-10-09 Thread Kari Peter
It could be Marssonina leaf blotch, which has been appearing in orchards this 
time of year – we first identified this in Pennsylvania last September and I’m 
aware of incidences in NY, NJ, and CT.  It’s rearing its head again this 
season, most likely due to the feet of rain we have received since July.  I 
recently wrote an article for PSU’s Fruit Times:

https://extension.psu.edu/2018-disease-update-marssonina-blotch-on-apple-trees

Moral of the story:  treat it like you would deal with apple scab.  Sanitation 
will be key keeping this disease in check year to year.


Kari Peter, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Professor - Tree Fruit Pathology
Department of Plant Pathology and Environmental Microbiology
Penn State Fruit Research and Extension Center
290 University Dr., P.O. Box 330
Biglerville, PA 17307-0330

Office: 717-677-6116 Ext. 223
Fax: 717-677-4112
E-mail: 
ka...@psu.edu<https://webmail.psu.edu/webmail/shell.cgi?timestamp=1362517824>
Twitter: https://twitter.com/drtreefruit




From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com 
 On Behalf Of maurice tougas
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 12:36 PM
To: Apple-Crop discussion list 
Subject: Re: [apple-crop-2] Apple leaf disorder

Yup seeing same here. No captan or phosphorous . Goldens but I don't recall 
seeing on Jonagold. Ill check.

Mo Tougas

On Tue, Oct 9, 2018 at 12:26 PM David Kollas 
mailto:kollasorchar...@gmail.com>> wrote:
The photo below, taken yesterday in my orchard, shows a Jonagold tree among 
other Jonagold trees that
are dropping leaves.  Severity varies from few to many leaves showing the spots 
and leaf-drop on different trees.
Similar, but less severe symptoms appear in other varieties that have yellow 
delicious in their heritage.  I suspect
it to be a fungal infection, because the spots appear on green leaves, which 
then turn yellow and drop.  Frequent
captan plus phosphorous acid sprays have been applied for sooty blotch in 
recent weeks because of frequent rains
and and infrequent appearances of the sun.

I have seen similar, but less severe occurrences of the disorder in other 
years, but would like to hear whether
others are seeing it this year, or have knowledge of the causes and prevention.

David Kollas
Kollas Orchard
Connecticut, USA

[cid:EA50C707-49A2-4BBA-AC36-0B822B1841AC@hsd1.ct.comcast.net]
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--
Maurice Tougas
Tougas Family Farm
Northborough,MA 01532
508-450-0844
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Re: [apple-crop-2] Photos of dying trees-fireblight- Doug

2018-07-23 Thread Kari Peter
I’m not sure if this fire blight or Phytophthora – this problem and the 
pictures look very familiar to what I’ve been observing the last 5 years in PA 
(this is my frame of reference since I started in 2013).

Another pathogen to keep in mind that is often linked to this sort of mystery 
tree death/decline is Botryosphaeria spp., either B. dothidea or B. obtusa, – 
white rot or black rot.  However, this pathogen is not THE cause of the 
decline.  These fungi are everywhere and typically don’t create any hassle for 
the tree: These are relatively weak fungal pathogens and they will not cause 
tree death when the tree is healthy.  They take advantage of weakened, stressed 
trees – this is when you have tree death. What I have observed is something is 
going on in the graft union area.  We have been isolating Bot pathogens fire 
blight and Phytophthora have been ruled out.  The next question is: what 
ultimately weakened/stressed the tree to make it susceptible to these weak 
pathogens.

We have been studying this rapid decline problem in PA since 2013ish…and there 
are (still) more questions than answers, I’m afraid.  I wrote about this late 
2016:
https://extension.psu.edu/apple-disease-rapid-apple-decline-rad-or-sudden-apple-decline-sad

There is not much to add to the above other than we discovered a previously 
undescribed virus.  However, we do not know what connection, IF ANY, this virus 
has to the decline issue.  It is very difficult to prove cause and effect with 
a virus that infects a woody plant; however, we’re trying.  I believe the 
decline issue is a complex of things occurring (Winter injury? Drought? 
Herbicide? Rootstocks prone to stress (ie M9)?Etc.), not just one issue.


Kari Peter, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Professor - Tree Fruit Pathology
Department of Plant Pathology and Environmental Microbiology
Penn State Fruit Research and Extension Center
290 University Dr., P.O. Box 330
Biglerville, PA 17307-0330

Office: 717-677-6116 Ext. 223
Fax: 717-677-4112
E-mail: 
ka...@psu.edu<https://webmail.psu.edu/webmail/shell.cgi?timestamp=1362517824>
Twitter: https://twitter.com/drtreefruit




From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of 
wincowg...@centurylink.net
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2018 10:09 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: [apple-crop-2] Photos of dying trees-fireblight- Doug

Doug-I looked at the photos you attached and the last photo, #22301at the base 
just above the rootstock- has long verticle cankers (sunken areas in the bark) 
and verticle cracking in the bark.  Combined with the tree colapsing it sure 
appears to be fireblight.

However you also appear to have significant damage to the rootstock just belowe 
the graft union when you blow the picture up. Its weedy and from the angle 
cannot see how much is comprimised.

I had emailed you a list of questions on this list but I didnt get a response. 
The purpose was to try and narrow down whats going on.
You have had much advice, from many on the list.

The main question is what rootstock is your planting on? If is a suceptable 
stock with a suceptable root then you have double trouble.The fireblight can 
run right to the root causing tree colapse. With those cankers visible in the 
lower trunk this looks like what you have.

My guidance to growers with this combination, suceptable stock with suceptable 
root is take the tree(s) out.

You also indicated these were in clusters, again sounds like fireblight, the 
inoculumn moves to the trees next door and take it out.

The soil born disease phytophora can cause a similar looking tree colapse, but 
will not have the cankers in the trunk. Also is is born in the soil water and 
usually runs down a row if there is any slope.

There are many good labs, both univ and private that can id both fireblight and 
phytophora if the get live tissue samples. You need to confirm what you have so 
you can plan control programs.



I would certain







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Re: [apple-crop-2] What to do when fireblight hits tall spindle

2018-07-19 Thread Kari Peter
Pruning out fire blight this time of year can be tricky depending how much fire 
blight you are pruning out.  Excessive pruning will encourage more shoot growth 
= more shoot growth means susceptible shoots to fire blight right now 
especially with conditions favorable for disease.  Trees should be hardened off 
right now meaning new shoot growth should be finished.  When this occurs, the 
bacteria stops moving in the trees and new fire blight incidence should stop.  
I would highly recommend avoiding doing anything that would encourage new shoot 
growth right now.  If it were me, I would just wait until the dormant period to 
aggressively remove everything.  There is much debate about cleaning pruning 
shears between cuts.  I don’t recommend it because the bacteria can move 3 feet 
beyond the site of visible infection, so disinfesting is a moot point.  Here is 
my latest article (June 26, 2018) in Penn State Fruit Times about what to do 
about fire blight now (it’s just below the info about apple scab):

https://extension.psu.edu/mid-season-tree-fruit-disease-update

And a note: do not spray any streptomycin.  Streptomycin is for bloom time 
only, and after a trauma event, such as hail. Do not spray it beyond these 
times.  If you are concerned about new shoot growth (if this is a new orchard 
pushing right now), I would recommend Cueva to limit spread of shoot blight.

Kari Peter, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Professor - Tree Fruit Pathology
Department of Plant Pathology and Environmental Microbiology
Penn State Fruit Research and Extension Center
290 University Dr., P.O. Box 330
Biglerville, PA 17307-0330

Office: 717-677-6116 Ext. 223
Fax: 717-677-4112
E-mail: 
ka...@psu.edu<https://webmail.psu.edu/webmail/shell.cgi?timestamp=1362517824>
Twitter: https://twitter.com/drtreefruit




From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.com] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2018 1:14 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop-2] What to do when fireblight hits tall spindle

Doug, it's sort of complicated. First, you probably know the bacteria travels 
from the tip downwards. The idea is to cut well below where the infection has 
traveled. You can cut away some bark and see where the brown area meets green 
cambium. I cut pass this point - well past it. I'm guessing I would cut about 
three times the length of the affected area. For example, if the tip has died 
back 6 inches, I would remove 18 inches of that limb. This is my gut but but 
this has worked for me in the past. I don't know the extent of your knowledge, 
but you need to be careful not to spread the bacteria with your tools and 
hands. Some people dip their tools in alcohol or Clorox between cuts. I use 
Clorox wipes on my shears, making sure I use a fresh wipe almost every cut, as 
the wipe ought to be very wet. On small limbs, say a quarter of an inch or 
less, I rip the limb off. The big thing is, take action now!!  With warm 
weather you can get a lot of damage. If you burn the limbs, don't let the smoke 
drift into your orchard - something a guy told me

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 18, 2018, at 10:24 PM, 
"wincowg...@centurylink.net<mailto:wincowg...@centurylink.net>" 
mailto:wincowg...@centurylink.net>> wrote:
Doug- where are you located?
What rootstock(s)?
What cultivars?
How old are the trees in your tall spindle?
What was your fireblight control program at bloom?
any post bloom program(s)

Win

On Jul 18, 2018, at 9:26 PM, Doug Nelson 
mailto:doug.nel...@nelsonmultimedia.com>> 
wrote:

I appear to have fireblight popping up in my orchard. The ipm group tells me to 
prune all limbs back to central leader and not to do any spraying.

What do you do?
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