Maybe a little off topic but, thought might be of interest to some.
Phil Parr.
- Original Message -
From: Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Victor Reader Stream Discussion' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 8:27 PM
Subject: [VRStream] HumanWare Message - VR Stream
On the lever that the chain attaches to at the top, is there more than one
hole that you could fasten the chain to. You might want to try to hook the
chain further in or further out on the lever. I really dont know if that is
even possible but is worth looking at.
Good luck
-Original
G'day again Dave, Sally Listers,
Good electrician's are hard to get in this country, they're all so busy.
But, after a dozen or more phone calls, I finally found a Sparky with a
little downtime and he called in at home this morning. He took a quick
glance at my switchboard, then a quick peek
Robert,
The cylinder bores would need to be checked with an inside micrometer.
Those measurements could then be compared with factory specifications.
Example, not actual specs. if your bore is 3.000 inches, and it is measured
at 3.002 you might be able to hone it, but if it measures 3.060, it
Robert,
If the cylinders have more than about .006 taper from top to
bottom you will probably want to bore it. This will mean
purchasing a new set of pistons in the correct over-size as
well as a trip to the machine shop to have the block
professionally machined. You will need to hit the machine
We ended up with 8%, but I honestly was not sure we would close until the last
day. It has been nerve racking, but we love our house.
Jennifer
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 11:29 PM
Subject:
Hey Guys,
We have carpet that has been layer on the concrete. How do I get up, the
carpet tack strips that they use to hold the carpet? I do not want to damage
the concrete as the plan is to stain it and use it as the flooring for a few
years.
Jennifer
[Non-text portions of this message
Have you tried raising the water level in the tank? The last time I did a
total replacement of all the parts in the tank I had the same issue. It
was the water level. Try raising the water level.
- Original Message -
From: Chanting Monks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Hi Robert,
I believe everything you will need can be purchased at, www.SummitRacing.com
This is where i go to purchase stuff for the pick up if the local speed shop
can't get it.
Rebuilding a engine is very money consuming. You will probably spend
hundreds, if not thousands. This is just another
Hi Larry,
Yeah I got some self locking screws for the negative connections. Along with
some electrical grease for the brake connector clips. And i did sand the
area where the negative wire grounds to the frame for the gas fill pipe.
Sounds like you were pretty happy breaking your own time runs
Jennifer
I don't know if you have pulled up the carpet yet but if not, an idea you
might want to consider is to cut the carpet into 3 or 4 foot wide stripps
for easier desposle. The knife that we used had a blade that is bent at a 90
degrees angle. It is actually some what curved. The sharp part
Roger
When this tbing was parked the engine was still running quite well and that
is why I am not at all looking to do a major over haul. As I said I just
want to take care of the things that could give me trouble down the road.
Mostly the soft parts like seals and gaskets and I suppose a timing
It's possible to rent a concrete grinder which can be fitted with stones or
scarifying wheels, but the ones I know about are heavy and quite hard to
control under some circumstances. You could in other words do a lot of damage
in a very short time, particularly if you couldn't visually
glad you got it sorted, and i was only to glad to give you some tips.
Dave Sally.
Buy and sell your surplus free, join our new mailing group by sending a blank
email to. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Or find more details here.
http://www.secretsthatwekeep.com/thebargainstore/invite.htm
Want an audio
One other warning for ya. Do not leave batteries on your end
tables. Tom did this a long time ago. The batteries leaked and
ruined the finish, and left a big divot in the table. Luckily I
had a book, just the right size, to cover the damage.
Gee, why do you have this 1975 Readers Digest
Nerve racking puts it lightly. In the Northeast of the country it's 6.39%
one week, 8.0% the next and then 8.9 and 9.23 in the week after that.
I figured I'd rather work to pay back bills than to put my house in
jeapardy paying them off all at once.
Best of luck to you!
Now remember, your
True about the trench and such. There is also some provision for attaching to
a buried plate. BUT since I have moved and haven't unpacked all the books yet
I can't find my code book so I can not quote chapter and verse.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: NLG
To:
Would we like to talk about water jetting a ground rod down? One first punches
a hole in the ground with the ground rod. Don't be too aggressive and get it
stuck. Then fill the hole with water and punch the rod up and down untill it
becomes difficult pull the rod out and add more water.
hahahaha
I like the beginning of this.
But I must say, that the industrial batteries I use in my teleportation
device; (yes I am from the other side, the advanced side, of the galaxy)
use these batteries and I think they are much safer than standard type
for any gear for which we care.
Best
You'll be having your kids wear knee pads all day?
Only plastic dishes right?
Unless new concrete isn't as hard as what I remember, man that is gonna be
*hard living.
No kidding, Best of luck.
They have be down with adhesive, you're not going to hurt the concrete,.
On Tue, 18 Sep 2007, Jennifer
Hi Bryce,
How high should the level be. Right now, the flush handle is approx three
inches beneath the lip of the open tank, and the water level is about half
an inch beneath it. The flush handle is seated in a little plastic housing,
but it isn't watertight by any stretch. I'm not sure I can
Joe,
Most toilets I have even seen have a pipe inside which allows water to drain
should the tank want to overflow. TAke a look and see if there is a 1/2 or
so pipe standing up insie the tank. If so, just below the top of that pipe
should be the proper level.
Cy, the Ancient Okie
_
Hi,
I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what
is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer.
I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled.
There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head.
On the other side
OK OK I give. Crying Uncle.
If this was an old 283 or 327 or maybe an old 400 wild cat like the one
sitting out in the shed in the 61 Buic LaSaber I might think I may want to
persue this project. No advice needed on the Buick since it is not mine and
not ever likely to become mine. I am starting
Hey, it's not like they said that they didn't own any rugs.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing
Hi Cy,
I just discovered the little bar on the interior of the tank that attaches
to the flush handle has three holes for chain adjustment. None seems to make
any difference. Shortening the chain a half inch seems to allow a little
more water to flow out prior to the flapper closing again and
You can't usually raise the water level, there is an overflow tube
that's part of the tank's mechanism which
sets the water level.
It seems to me that some of the rubber flapper valves are supposed to float
after being pulled up. That would make the flapper stay away from the
seat till the
If there are adhesives involved, you could also use a tyle remover, which is a
wheeled machine, sort of like a floor sander, but with a sharp
vibrating/reciprocating blade on the front. Ive also known of people using co2
fire extinguishers to fast freeze and chip off glue in small areas.
Hi Jennifer,
Just to add to what Robert has said, if they did indeed use nails to lay the
tack strips down, you can get a cement filler from Home Depot or Lowes to
plug up the holes so they aren't so visible.
They come in Caulk tubes, and you use a caulking gun to apply it into the
holes.
Thanks, Tom, I'm going to have to reexamine the flapper. The whole thing is
new, the landlord bought the interior guts, so I never got a real good feel
of it to see if it was exactly the same as teh old one. And you're probably
right about the flushing options being a water saving mechanism.
Joe,
First of all let me say that I am glad this is *your* toilet and not mine.
(LOL)
Try this, just list up the flapper until it is about at a 45 degree angle
and count to about 2 then let it go. See if the toilet flushes correctly.
If the flapper allows all but perhaps a half inch of water to go
Hi Spiro,
Have you tried loosening the valve first? That is, turn the hot water tap on
about half way at least with the shut-off closed of course to keep the actual
hot water from spraying out then see if the nut will come loose.
If the valve is tight shut as it probably is to keep drips from
It's just possible that changing the chain position or length just a bit
will make it come above the water surface when it's pulled up, thus letting
it get a breath of air to help it float.
but I have used many toilets on which you had to hold down the
handle as you discribe, so it may be a plan?
Hi Dan
Just trying to keep the members entertained.
Regards
Ray
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
Sent: Tuesday, 18 September 2007 23:38
To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ray and Tiles.
I love reading all the articles that are sent to this list. I am, however,
disappointed that most of them do not include the author and source where they
were taken from.
Not including an author and/or source could be considered in many cases against
copyright laws.
Plus I'm sure many of us
Gluing Tips
Sealed glue containers will usually last about a year, but glue in open
containers has a shorter shelf life. The shelf life depends on the
exposure to air
and moisture as well as heat and cold. If you only do occasional glue
jobs, purchase small containers. Glues also have an open,
I'm having trouble just keeping up with reading all of the articles, I can't
imagine how he finds the time to research the things. Ray, you never cease to
amaze me and today is no exception.
David Ferrin
- Original Message -
From: Boyce, Ray
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
How aboot you shorten up on the chain so it is within a fraction of an inch of
being tight while at rest so that immediately you press the handle the flapper
begins to rise. This will insure that it will lift that bit higher when you do
depress the handle.
Set it on the most distant hole in
Have you stuck your hand down in the tank and felt the flapper lift as you
flush it? If it don't come up enough for the water to get a good drain
going the water pressure will just close the flapper. When you adjust the
chain, the chain should be almost taunt. So make sure your flushing
It sounds as you have a three piece stem. Remove the knob. Unscrew the chrome.
Put the screw of the handle back in the remaining piece after removing the
first part of the stem and give it a good firm pull. For it sounds as you
have a Price Pfister faucet. The seats of a delta will inter
Ray,
I really wish you would not post all of the articles on painting and
especially the one on slate.
My wife listens over my shoulder and now, believe it or not, she is
seriously thinking about slate in the kitchen. She claims it would really
give it that *old country* look. (whatever that is)
I had this problem with a new flapper, it had a ring that went around the pipe
and tabs to hook on the ears on the side of the pipe.
My old one only had the tabs so i took it back off and cut the ring off and put
it back with just the tabs holding it and it worked perfectly.
Hi David
Yes there are a lot of useful articles sent in, one or two by me.
I remove all content I feel will not give a clean read and if the source
is relevant I will also post the URL.
If I am breaking Copy Write then I will take full responsibility for my
actions.
We have in our files this
Seals and gaskets wouldn't hurt, clean any sludge out of the oil pan and
valve covers, and put it back together. Might get another 100 150k out of
it, a lot depends on how it was and will be taken care of.
I may do a timing set, especially if it is a plastic one.
Michael
_
From:
Venting a clothes dryer to the outside isn't an option - it's a requirement. An
unvented dryer puts all kinds of fibers and lint into the air in the house
that will not only accumulate and make a heck of a mess over time, but can
cause respiratory and breathing problems for the occupants. Even
Michael
Never mind the question about the oil pump. I reread the last post from
Larry and I got my answer. If I do any thing at all with this motor such as
gaskets, seals and basic clean up I will go ahead and replace the oil pump.
Thanks
Robert
-Original Message-
From:
Michael
I think that is the way I will go. How about new oil pump since it will be
accessible? Or don't they go bad that often?
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 8:49 PM
To:
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