I had the same issue with the same result.
JohnB
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 5:30 AM David Maltais
wrote:
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
Cool! Congrats on finding a root cause.
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-8, David Maltais wrote:
>
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk
I will try for.sure!
Thx
Le lun. 31 déc. 2018 20 h 17, Eric Christoffersen a
écrit :
> I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when
> I got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
> but my machine's pid has now been working great for
I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when I
got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I
got a higher quality timer switch.
So... try a different house
I did the "jump" test and it started to heat. So faulty PID it is !
I looked at WLL wesbsite and shipping to Canada is ridiculous (155$ US)...
Can they ship with USPS ?
Is there a way to repair it (soldering iron and electronic component) or
it's a in the garbage item ?
Thanks a lot for your
Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you
have circled.
You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated. So if thiss
causes the green light on the PID to go on and the brew boiler starts to
heat then the PID has gone bad.
On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07
