One wonders about PSF?
Is it better or worse than ATF.
Tinker Dwight
From: cctalk on behalf of Chuck Guzis
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 8:05 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull
Okay, I'll chime in here.
In my experience petroleum oil and acetone are not miscible. Water and
alcohol (and gasoline) will mix with acetone, however.
So what's the lowdown on the ATF-acetone mixture?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-made-penetrating-oil/
States pretty clearly that the m
: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: WD-40 (again) was Re: A fruitfull evening
>From your last link.. which is a hoot.. ;-)
"PB Blaster just stinks!
ATF/acetone couldn't keep mixed together, kept separating."
Now here's a report of +ATF+ and ac
>From your last link.. which is a hoot.. ;-)
"PB Blaster just stinks!
ATF/acetone couldn't keep mixed together, kept separating."
Now here's a report of +ATF+ and acetone that won't mix. I assumed it was
due to some additive(s) in the PSF I had used, but perhaps not.
So please tell me - is there
On 4/13/16 10:27 AM, Al Kossow wrote:
> "WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside
> homemade lava lamps."
>
> https://web.archive.org/web/20140119014037/http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside
>
> https://www.engineeringforchange.org/how-t
On 4/12/16 5:38 PM, j...@cimmeri.com wrote:
>
>> On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre . wrote:
>>
>> "I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
>> purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
>
> That is *not* the main purpose of WD-40,
: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: A fruitfull evening
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:55, Christian Gauger-Cosgrove wrote:
> On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg wrote:
>> First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
>> f
On Wed, April 13, 2016 02:06, drlegendre . wrote:
> The 'Zoom Spout' Turbine Oil (Supco, other mfrs.) is brilliant for
> lubricating any fine mechanisms. It's also quite inexpensive, and the
> extensible spout is worth the price of the bottle alone. The oil contained
> is crystal-clear and somewh
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:55, Christian Gauger-Cosgrove wrote:
> On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg wrote:
>> First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
>> find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
>> (but still stiff enough to be usable fo
On Tue, April 12, 2016 23:12, Paul Koning wrote:
>
>> On Apr 12, 2016, at 3:55 PM, E. Groenenberg wrote:
>> ...
>> Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
>> was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
>> loosened the gummed up oil/grease an
For replacement 33 parts, join the greenkeys list. Greenkeys is a slang
name for Teletypes, When the went to the newer style keycaps in the 40's or
maybe the 50's the color was green. A member had a injection mold made and
a run of the hammer buttons made. He has also made or is making other 33
par
What's more fun than a top posting / bottom posting discussion? A WD-40
discussion. We've heard it all before.
As for waxy coating, I work on old clocks as a hobby.
I've had to clean several movements covered in WD40.
About the only thing that cuts it is more WD40.
I almost always find corrosion anyplace brass and iron
are in contact.
Dwight
Not this again.. ;-)
In fact, the +original+ recipe was a mix of acetone and PSF (power steering
fluid). Look it up.
I've tried the latter.. and the two simply +will not+ mix. They separate
like oil & water, for some reason. Can't speak as to the acetone / ATF mix,
so the whole thing remains a my
I've read, but not tried, that transmission fluid and acetone
makes the best rust solvent.
I wonder if it is F type?
Dwight
On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 9:07 PM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
> I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt tip needle for
> that. I've also found that orthodontic wire cutters work very well as
> flush cutters (and almost as inexpensive as the regular electronics kind).
A couple of weeks ago, l
"I use a plain medical glass syringe with a fine blunt tip needle for
that. "
Hey, what works, works - right? I like the General oiler as it's
essentially leak-proof, and can be carried in the pocket (or left for
months in the toolbox) with no worry about drips & stains. One other neat
feature, is
> Here's another little jewel, that no mechanical geek worth their
> salt should be without - the General Tools 589 Precision Oiler. This
> is a high-quality, leak-proof refillable oiler, that allows very
> precise dispensing of even the smallest droplets.
I use a plain medical glass syringe with
> From: drlegendre
> I've certainly never encountered any of the 'horror stories' about it
> ... +attracting+ moisture and fostering rust, ad nauseam.
I have personally experienced this; but in WD40's defence, it depends _how_
it is used.
If you spray it on lightly, and wipe off the
I've used WD-40 on multiple occasions to 'rescue' older motorcycle and
automotive ignition systems that died in rain or heavy humidity. In all
cases, these were the older point-and-coil type systems, not the more
modern HEI systems (found in post-1976 in most cars & light trucks,
post-1980-82 in mo
On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre . wrote:
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
That is *not* the main purpose of WD-40, nor does it even work well for
that purpose *at all*.R
> On Apr 12, 2016, at 8:19 PM, drlegendre . wrote:
>
> "I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
> purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
>
> Here I thought that the 'WD' stood for Water Dispersant (version 40). Also,
> while I have
"I suppose it might do that, but that's not its main purpose. Its main
purpose is to loosen rusted and otherwise stuck fasteners and shafts."
Here I thought that the 'WD' stood for Water Dispersant (version 40). Also,
while I have no use for the stuff myself, I've certainly never encountered
any
The 'Zoom Spout' Turbine Oil (Supco, other mfrs.) is brilliant for
lubricating any fine mechanisms. It's also quite inexpensive, and the
extensible spout is worth the price of the bottle alone. The oil contained
is crystal-clear and somewhere in the 5-10W range, non-detergent and will
not gum up.
> On Apr 12, 2016, at 6:24 PM, dwight wrote:
>
> WD-40 is not a lubricant or a solvent, although it can work as one
> at times, but only for a short time.
> When it dries it leaves behind a waxy substance, also no a lubricant.
> It is a water dispersant used to get condensation out of an ignitio
On 04/12/2016 03:24 PM, dwight wrote:
> Please don't put it on your teletype unless you intend to
> immediately rinse it off with solvent.
What Dwight said.
Kerosene or paint thinner makes a good cleaning solvent. SAE 5 "white"
oil is a good lightweight lubricant; often used to lube sewing mach
l 12, 2016 2:55 PM
To: e...@groenenberg.net; General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: A fruitfull evening
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg wrote:
> First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
> find out that my replacements were also st
On 12 April 2016 at 15:55, E. Groenenberg wrote:
> First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
> find out that my replacements were also starting to deteriorate :(
> (but still stiff enough to be usable for some print test).
> I can either use a piece of hose or one of tho
> On Apr 12, 2016, at 3:55 PM, E. Groenenberg wrote:
> ...
> Closer inspection showed that the pawl of the advancing/return section
> was barely moving. With the application of WD40 using a small brush
> loosened the gummed up oil/grease and with some more cleaning and light
> machine oil it was
So after cleaning up and reorganizing my computer/hobby room I thought it
was time to get the asr33 working again. It has a stuck carriage (at the
right end), and it would only go back after repeated CR's.
First thing I did was to replace the gooed up rubber hammer, only to
find out that my repla
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