It depends. Where did the codes come from? Many times they are
generic, but they can also often be given to specific Web sites or
affiliates. If the code was given to a specific affiliate, then it
might only be valid for them and should not be shared. You might want
to see if any of these
how much??
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its
maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have
absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully
someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am
Keep bleeding, bleeding, bleding then bleed some more until you have
more pedal. That has been my experience at least.
Daniel Solomon wrote:
Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it
for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't
stop. I have
My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad. Even though it is
new, it could be. Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal? It has
been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes
applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked. That was from
the
Did you use the correct rod from the pedal to the m/c?
** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
This may sound really dumb, but this happened to me this year. I went
from a manual 4 drum system to a power disk braking system. I got
everything all hooked up, but I wasn't impressed with the stopping power.
I started to hear a leak from my booster after a few months, so I ordered
a new
I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. I
bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power assist.
Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in the
shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.
Thanks,
I will check for the rod when I pull it off. I could be that dumb. It depends
on how many cold ones I had before I put it together.
Thanks, Dan
- Original Message -
From: Randy S Johnsonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing Listmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net
What is the difference? I used the one that was with the car.
Thanks, Dan
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.netmailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:05 AM
Subject: Re:
I don't see a listing for a power drum master cylinder. Could you get power
with drums in 1970? Would I be better off with the power disc brake M/C?
Dan
- Original Message -
From: Brad Wallermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing
How well do you like the Magnaflow systems? I need to do a 2.5 on my 67. I
also like the pypes systems. I can not afford the stainless but the 403 system
are about $500-650.
What about noise levels? Does one make more noise than the other?
Whatever I get my plan would be more happy with
A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push
rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a
long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C?
This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be
From: Daniel Solomon [EMAIL PROTECTED]Date: Monday, October 1, 2007 11:55 amSubject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor BrakingTo: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Picked up my 70Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks
Did you bleed the master cylinder when it was mounted?If so, you may
still have air trapped at the high end.In my limited experience I've had
better luck bench bleeding the master cylinder on the bench before
installation. A bench bleeding kit is only a few bucks.
On 10/1/07,
I need a banjo fitting for the electric fuel pump on my el
camino. And can't find one that has a 3/8 barbed output. The pump has a
12 mm output.This is similar to what I need but it is for brakes :
Mike,
How will I know if the rod and the M/C match?
I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was
installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what.
Thanks, Dan
- Original Message -
From: Mike Hollemanmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The
A number of years ago I posted about a '67 inside a decaying barn
I passed every day on my way to work here in southern Wisconsin.
All I could see was the grille and recently even that was getting
hard to see...until today.
There's now a worn black '67 El Camino sitting out at the end
of the
Daniel, the push rod length and often the depth of the pushrod hold in master
cylinder is different between power and non-power. I found this out the hard
way. In fact the pushrod depth is often different with new master cylinders
anyway. Check pushrod in back of master cylinder and it
Where in southern Wisconsin, I am in Elkhorn myself.
Jason F
69 chevelle
- Original Message -
From: Brad Olson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: The Chevelle Mailing List chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] '67 El Camino
A number of years
-- Original message --
From: Jason Fiegel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Where in southern Wisconsin, I am in Elkhorn myself.
Out in the country southwest of Stoughton, which is itself
roughly halfway between Madison and Janesville. I won't
be going home that way tonight
Dan, The rods are approx. 1 different in length. If you have a short rod, less
than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only
problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster
the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure
I know Aeroquip makes straight banjo to hose adapters, here's one from Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=banjoN=700+4294924496+4294839052+115+300072autoview=skuNtk=KeywordSearch;
I have a few more sources to check. Is the thread coarse or fine, M12 x
1.75 or M12 x 1.25?
I know this is way off topic, but
I have a need to confirm that MS Publisher 2007 will or will not
properly convert to .html.
Would anyone have MS Publisher 2007 that would allow me to send them a
.pub file to convert, then send it back to me as .html in a .zip file?
If it works out,
Mike,
Pulled it all apart tonight and I suspect the booster and the master cylinder
were not a match. I have a deep hole M/C which according to Master Power is for
manual applications. The rod is sticking out the same amount from the booster
but the actuation rod will not come out of the
Good evening - I need a little guidance - My '70 SS has been in the shop for
the past few days for some work and it was discovered that the driver's power
seat died - (My front buckets were being taken out to be redone) - I realize
that this is a some what rare option but I need some guidance
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