My CC 35 MKII has 7 Groco bronze seacocks, each one placed in a very hard
to reach space.since it is well known to be good seamanship to close all
seacocks when leaving the boat I wonder why the designers did not make them
a little more easily accessible and with longer handles too.I might be more
Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never closed my seacocks either. I
just make sure that my hoses are good and the connections are sound. I could
never remember to turn them on when I needed them. I'll take that back. I do
have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind
I do have to close to seacock to the sink in the head when the wind is up.
Me too, quite a lot of water gets in when the rail is going under if I
forget.
Ken H.
CC 37XL
On 26 May 2014 10:37, coltrek via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Well, I guess I'm a bad seaman too. I have never
An other CC 33 MKII had added a valve just under the head sink. I did the
same, way more convenient than go under the setee to close the seacock when the
boat is on its side. I close it before leaving the dock when i know it will be
an epic ride.
I also maintain (grease) my seacocks and
We used to have a GMC 1/2 ton like that. Key? Who needs a stinkin' key?
On 26 May 2014 02:07, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the
seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the
Mark,
I'm surprised that your temperature alarm didn't eventually go off at some
point in your adventure. Maybe something to check if you didn't get the alarm.
You should probably check that the water pump impellor hasn't lost any vanes
when running dry and now stuck in your heat
After braking off a couple of keys on my Yanmar panel and paying about $50 for
a new switch (key broke the plastic too), I put in a push/pull switch - I found
out all Yanmar keys are the same - big deterrent! Besides, they have to get
into the cabin to turn on the AB switch.
Gary
Old Yanmar
I would venture to ask all who never tried starting the engine with the stop
cable pulled out to raise hands. I am afraid that the list of those who haven’t
would be short and include mostly people with Atomics (;-)
Marek
From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 12:35 PM
To:
Couple mentions lately about problems with hockles in lines. Here's a tip.
When you coil a line, you put twists in it. Yeah, it looks great but will
it run free?
By coiling, I mean rolling in that half twist so the line coils.
Instead, try this. Hold the line in the palm of your left hand
+1 on the figure eight. My oday 22 did not have a traveler for the main and
the main sheet was very long. I started out cooling and it always git all
jammed up untiltel I readabout and started using the figure eight. Never
twisted up again
From my Android phone
Original message
My bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000 gph PAR
unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has never given me
problems until it recently decided not to pump any water. The motor ran just
fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being stirred
Rich,
Thanks for the heads up. I was just online tonight looking at bilge pumps.
My CS 30 doesn't have an automatic bilge pump, just a manual.
I feel like I should add an automatic pump, but I wonder what size.
My boat has a very flat bilge with no 'deep' spots at all and maybe 4 space
under
Hate to see this happen to anyone.
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2014/05/26/photos-atlantic-cup-2014/?utm_m
edium=email
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2014/05/26/photos-atlantic-cup-2014/?utm_
medium=emailutm_campaign=Scuttlebutt+4092+-+May+27+2014utm_content=Scuttle
Mark,
Rich may offer a different solution but here's how I generally install a
bilge pump.
Get the biggest Rule pump that will fit the space and a separate Rule float
switch, either the Rule-a-Matic or the Superswitch. If you want a better
float switch and it will fit, get the USS Ultra
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