Chuck,
At the very bottom of the Photo Album’s Brochures page under New Additions, are
a couple pdf files of 25 mk1 info.
I might have something in my archives too, I’ll look through them tonight.
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25 #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
From:
You are right, the brochures on the Photo Album are for the Mk2.
AFIK, there were 3 models: The Redline 25 originated in the late 60s. The 25
(mk1, though it would not have been called that) which started in 1973. And the
25 mk2 first built in 1980.
The Mk1 and Mk2 both have a swept back
The brochure is a mkIi. I have the original users manual. There are some
diagrams but the rest seems to be generic. Sailboatdata.com has pretty good
information about the MK I
I can scan whatever I have if anybody is interested
Ahmet
1973 25 MK I
On Nov 7, 2015 10:31 PM, "Chuck S via CnC-List"
Thanks Ken,
The C I see at the boatyard nearby is definitely a '73 25 Mk I.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list"
Cc: "Ken Heaton"
Chuck
The 25-1 was one of C best boats of all time. A whole lot of boat packed in
25 ft
spent much time on one and racing against one
Mike
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Chuck S via
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent:
Ahmet,
I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here, http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/
Let me know if the link works for you.
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25 #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via
Chuck,
Here are some info sheets and a brochure that I had in my archives.
http://postimg.org/gallery/29uxaggvu/
The scans weren’t that good but I fixed them up the best that I could.
They cover Mk1 - Sep 1973, Mk1 - Sep 1975, Mk1 - Sep 1076 and Mk2 - Oct 1980.
Stu, I have them
Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had excessive
resistance. Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old. Any thoughts on
suitable replacement and where to purchase??
On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring that
applies
I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing. I'd just
use silica filled epoxy. Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull. The typical 80 grit
Yup, you will! The question is, what is the best way to repair the
gelcoat. I have glass mat showing in places. Do I apply epoxy or
polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area? What
do I fill it with? Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin? help!!!
Gary
S/V
Teleflex II is what I used. They were basically drop in replacements. Got
'em from West Marine. Pull one to get the length. Leave the other as a
fish for the 2 new ones.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 8, 2015 9:26 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" <
This write up in sailing anarchy is pretty detailed with pics
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986
> On Nov 8, 2015, at 9:18 PM,Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the old
>
Thanks a lot guys. I will respond in one email to all the feedback to save
on band with.
Gary Kolc: Thank you that is very interesting and good to know
Dave: I will follow your advise and use 4200. Most of the pictures I see
have some kind of a sealant. Pretty much all of it will get squeezed
Ahmet - my comments below.
1). Rust - I had an extensive review and survey of a 35mki before buying my
33ii. The rusty washers could well have been original, (as on the 35). would
replace these with stainless, (make a plate if you can) large as will fit, and
give it a surface to bear on.
And there is always SailboatData.com for additional info, usually as
accurate as the brochure information he bases most of his info on (and if
it isn't accurate contact the owner of the site, Randy, through his Forum
and he will fix it):
1969 - REDLINE 25 (C)
Actual torque values are available on the photo album site.
Another material which you might find handy would be G10 FRP board. It
comes in 1/4" and 1/2". I can see the 1/2" working really well to act as
one large strong back for multiple keel bolts. Glop some very thick epoxy
or some Six10
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