Re: Stus-List Battery test

Some background: http://4xspower.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/bci-ohmicreadings.pdf Michael Brown Windburn C 30-1 From: Josh Muckley I'd like to know more about the technology, how it works, and how accurate it is. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons,

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Josh — try this: http://www.skylark.co.uk/CONDUCTANCEQ-A.htm — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Feb 7, 2017, at 6:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List >

Stus-List C 35mkII Windlass

I am having a new stemhead fitting with bow roller fabricated this winter for Piper. My next step, is looking into a windlass for Piper, as the new anchor that I purchased is a 35lb Lewmar Delta and I'm not as young as I used to be. I really like the looks of the low profile Lewmar windlasses but

Re: Stus-List Battery test

__ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- n

Stus-List Anchor windlass C 35 MK II

I am having a new stemhead fitting with bow roller fabricated this winter for Piper. My next step, is looking into a windlass for Piper, as the new anchor that I purchased is a 35lb Lewmar Delta and I'm not as young as I used to be. I really like the looks of the low profile Lewmar windlasses but

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I'd like to know more about the technology, how it works, and how accurate it is. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Feb 7, 2017 6:45 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I think I’ll stick with my Midtronics conductive tester; good, accurate

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Joe; Not to be argumentative, but the Amp Hour rating for a battery is by definition based on the current the battery will provide that results in it being fully discharged over 20 hours. For a typical 12 volt group 27 or 31 battery in the 100 AH range, that's about 5 amps of current. For a 4D

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I think I’ll stick with my Midtronics conductive tester; good, accurate results on the health of my golf-cart and start batteries, it only takes a minute, and no chance of starting things on fire… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI

Re: Stus-List Battery test

There is no need to go full discharge. The voltage and capacity properties of a lead-acid battery have a near linear relationship so a 50% discharge is fine for testing. That should be 11.6v. All of this is just a comparison. A brand new battery might show +/- 10% of the labeled rating. That

Re: Stus-List Battery test

If you have the original battery Reserve Capacity specs it is an acceptable quick test to see if the battery is good but maybe worn or at end of life. If possible test the battery(s) individually, Charge fully, bring battery to around 80F and time how long it will sustain a 25 amp load before

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Cool page :) This is the relevant one: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_capacity From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BillBinaList via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2017 16:49 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: BillBinaList

Re: Stus-List Battery test

http://batteryuniversity.com/ Bill Bina On 2/7/2017 4:37 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: Load test is not a CAPACITY test – not at ALL. My start battery is a 35 AH gel cell and it reads very well with my 100A load tester or the engine starter, which is 125 amps or so. Joe

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Load test is not a CAPACITY test – not at ALL. My start battery is a 35 AH gel cell and it reads very well with my 100A load tester or the engine starter, which is 125 amps or so. Joe Coquina (used to be a dealer for Penn Deka batteries) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Load testing and capacity testing are very different things. The 100 amp load tester is a rough guide to the cranking power of the battery, not the AH capacity. My 35 AH gel start battery reads very well on that meter. You don't use it for long ;) Joe Coquina From: CnC-List

Re: Stus-List Battery test

> The starter motor can be used for a load test. Just measure the voltage > across the battery terminals while cranking. performs a basic load-test of > the battery, using the vehicle’s starter motor. This test is done with the > engine cranking. Use care to keep the voltmeter test leads from

Re: Stus-List Battery test

The starter motor can be used for a load test. STEP 2 of 3 STEP 2 performs a basic load-test of the battery, using the vehicle’s starter motor. This test is done with the engine cranking. Use care to keep the voltmeter test leads from contacting moving or hot engine parts. Tool required:

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Read the instructions! This is how most of the world, including your local battery dealer, load tests batteries. LOL Bill Bina On 2/7/2017 2:06 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote: I have one of those. It draws 5 times the current desired AND would likely catch on fire or burn something up if left

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I have one of those. It draws 5 times the current desired AND would likely catch on fire or burn something up if left on for long. It is a 1200 watt heater with no fan! Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday,

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I would just turn on lights until I got to around 20 amps. You can get 100 watt 12 volt bulbs at West < https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor--standard-screw-base-bulbs--P009_276_006_521?recordNum=3>. 2 or 3 of those would do. For a temporary setup, a standard cheap halogen car headlight is

Re: Stus-List Battery test

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html Bill Bina On 2/7/2017 11:54 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote: Dave, If you used a resistor, you’d need 0.6 ohms at least 240 watts. Probably not practical. You could put a load on your batteries by turning on most

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Dave, If you used a resistor, you’d need 0.6 ohms at least 240 watts. Probably not practical. You could put a load on your batteries by turning on most of your lights, cabin fans and other loads. Ron From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Now that its winter as shown in pbase articles, provided that you have disconnected each of your batteries prior to winter storage so your batteries can reach steady state, you could just go and measure the voltage on each one and get a very reliable State of charge. And you would do it

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I have been following this discussion and would like to do this for my batteries. Can you suggest what would be an easy/appropriate ~20A load generating device? Dave Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT > On Feb 7, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List >

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Len, there is no free lunch... (i.e. if you do it cheap or quickly, the results will be questionable). Joe’s way is probably the best way to do it, provided that you can maintain a steady 20 A current through the load and that you can stop the discharge at the particular voltage level (you

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Easy cheap way. If you have accurate volt and amp meters, a 20 amp (or near enough) load applied for enough time to drain the batteries 50%*. You should see 12.2 for wet cells and 12.3 or so for gel/agm. Light loads like 1-5 amps and heavy loads like 50-100 amps both will be inaccurate because