If someone has the polars I'd be interested as well. I've been doing some
calcs on various boats for spin vs. white sails for PHRF handicapping and could
use another boat for a data point.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Doug Ellmore via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmo
Is 3/8” cast acrylic correct for redoing the Lewmar small cabin top opening
hatches too? (Think they are about 14” x 5”). Planning to do two this summer.
Tx
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 1:50 PM
To: C
, I managed to hit the loop I had in a pump
> outlet and move it from a couple inches above the static water line to an
> inch lower. It made a dandy siphon with everyone and all the gear aboard when
> it did not unloaded at the dock.
> !
> -- next part --
> An
9mm (3/8") is the correct thickness.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City TC
Portland, OR
On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.
>
> Made the templates yesterday, but forgot
Eric — when I redid my windows last year, it was 1/4” from the previous owner
that was part of the cause of the failure. You really need to use thicker
acrylic (NOT Lexan…); I ended up with 9mm (just under 3/8”) and it worked well.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfa
Hi all,
Starting the project of replacing my windows on 34/36.
Made the templates yesterday, but forgot to measure the thickness of the
lexan.
Anyone know offhand what this is? It looked to be about 1/4 in.
It would save me a drive back up to the boat.
Eric
S/V Hee Soo
C&C 34/36
_
Howdy,
Looking for polar diagram for the C&C 24. If you have a set you can share
it would be great.
I will be racing s/v Red Sky (1976, #102) on the Chesapeake with
the Herrington Harbour Sailing Association.
--
Doug Ellmore, Sr.
d...@ellmore.net
___
My 2QM20 raw water cooled Yanmar used to steam a lot. I worked with my
mechanic to figure it out. Replacing the thermostat fixed it and also
brought down the block running temp quite a bit.
Also some treatments of salt-away through the cooling systems seemed to
increase the quantity of cooling w
You can buy closed cell foam which will not get saturated with water, it's
harder to find but available. Len
Sent from my iPad
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs
Mike — part of the reason to use a backing block is to make sure you have a
flat spot in the rounded hull to mount the transducer; it’s not so much for
reinforcement. It also gives you more of the shaft of the transducer to seal
with whatever goop you use as a sealant; I use LifeSeal when I ins
The best emergency pump is one where you can bring the pump to the problem.
If the pick up for the pump is midships or further aft and a hull breech is in
the bow, the ship is likely to start sinking bow first and raising the pickup
well above the rising water. This is not uncommon when sailb
They say that the best pump ever invented is two terrified men and a bucket !
Regards,
Bill ColemanC&C 39
Original message
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
Date: 4/3/17 10:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"
Subject: Re: Stus-List
Dave,
I should have showed it to you at the Defender Show, but the top of the line
Spinlock Deck Vest has an integrated cutting tool along with an LED light and a
spray hood that goes over your head if you find yourself in rough wavy
conditions with no way of keeping water away from your face.
Joe,
I'm a big believer in bilge pumps. Pegathy has 2, 2000 gph each, on separate
float switches and separate toggle switches. I've had pumps fail many times,
for unknown reasons. More than increasing your capacity, I'd recommend
installing a spare pump with the float switch set slightly higher
I also put one of these on board:
https://www.amazon.com/BECKSON-MARINE-524C-Beckson-Thirsy/dp/B009XCO2Z0
-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump
IMHO:
There are two kinds of bilge pumps.
1 - routine: These get the standard daily leaks. Capacity is not important,
being able to be mounted low down and being reliable is. For a modern
fiberglass boat, you have an issue if even the smallest pump is running all the
time at the dock or underway
The subject on engine coolant made me inquire; do the Yanmar's and others
have fitting pipe plugs in the water jackets to enable a temperature sender
probe to be installed? Variations in readings would indicate air in the
lines, stuck open or closed thermostat and general performance for baseline
There is a good article on the C&C27 association web page about insulating with
foam injected outside the liner along with bits of foam board where he could
get at it. In a nutshell, the author drilled injection holes down through the
counter top behind the ice box where no other access was poss
Replaced my exhaust elbow on 1GM last season with a stainless. They're
available on eBay. Made it easier to start and reduced black smoking. Jerry
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 2, 2017, at 10:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Brent,
>
> If you or the previous owner ran the engin
I can drill holes form the inside and inject 2 part foam or expendafoam.
that's what I did for outboard end.
On Apr 2, 2017 9:09 AM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"
wrote:
> My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but
> might also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s b
I just finished replacing a rule pump in the deep bilge on my 37/40+ with a
Whale Gulper and a water witch switch. I have a Rule 800 gah in another spot.
The Rule is way weak by comparison. I mounted the whale gulper somewhat
remotely. I feel as though, despite it being rated at 300 gph that
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