Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Hi Bev, I'm a bit confused by your description. By "round" attachment, do you mean cylindrical? My first thought is that this is your secondary fuel filter and the bleed nut is open. This filter is located on the front of the engine (trace the fuel line from the fuel pump). But then your

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Perhaps the best fix for the C smile is to separate and properly re-mate the keel and stub, but this is obviously a big job. I have been told that the reason C smiles are so common is that they did not do a great job with this aspect of production. Sounds right to me. Not sure if fixing it

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Watching this thread with interest. Currently have 6,000 lbs of exposed lead (yes, not safe or ideal…) sitting in a cradle in the yard. FWIW, a former owner of “Ronin” sliced off the top layer of below waterline gelcoat and recoated everything with epoxy. And apparently the keel was dropped

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Neill, I've always wetsanded the lead with West Systems epoxy. Then sanded for tooth and applied bottom paint. No issues so far. Chris Price On May 3, 2018 at 5:26 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote: Richard, I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Be careful about that first coat of bottom paint. It depends on the paint. From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 5:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel treatment I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

I’ll also pile on and say that Josh and Dennis’ method works quite nicely. It was my boat that Dennis repaired and the epoxy bond to the lead was quite strong. I know because I tested it extensively after he was done and gone and not looking. Kevin Benoit S/V Guru 1976 MKII 35’ On Thu, May 3,

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Josh is on track. I just helped fix a "smile" on a 35-2. Sanded to bare lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing. Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a good bond. Once you get the epoxy on the lead then you can apply barrier coat, paint, fairing, whatever.

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy into the metal with a wire brush or a scrubby pad. Anytime an epoxy coating is applied (west systems, interprotect, etc) I've been told that to ensure proper adhesion between layers you need to apply the next layer while the last coating is still

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Richard A few years back when I fixed the C smile I took my keel down to the bare lead. At that time I read some where that epoxy wouldn’t stick to the lead unless it was free of oxidation. Hard to do with lead. I also learned that the best way to apply the epoxy and get it to bond was to

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

Richard, I'm dealing with exactly the same issue, had the bottom soda blasted to bare lead and what's left of my gelcoat.  I called Interlux about this, their tech rep recommended Interprotect 2000E on both the hull and the lead.  For the lead he recommended thinning the first coat 15%-20%

Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and what is the best method for application? I have also taken the

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Send us a picture. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the > tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Is it the fuel filter shown on page 83 of this: https://www.yanmarshop.com/Media/Default/Documents/1GM-2GM(F)-3GM(F)-3HM(F)%20Owners%20Manual%20(2J020A1279).pdf Joel On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Could that ‘attachment’ be the

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Could that ‘attachment’ be the engine fuel filter? You said ‘primary’ filter, is that the first one on the tank side? Mine has a big plastic Racor about a foot from the tank and then it is routed to a fuel pump mounted on the engine then to a small filter near the top of the engine, then to the

Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf

Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

We have Whale pumps for our holding tanks. When they fail, it really stinks! Joel On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 12:14 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dennis, > > Honey has 2 of these same pumps. We dismantle and check them every year in > January. These pumps and

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

Dennis, Honey has 2 of these same pumps. We dismantle and check them every year in January. These pumps and tested with fresh water only and we still find the corrosion issue mentioned below. They are coated and returned to the galley and cockpit combing. Even with this program I have had to

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

Hot button rant! If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing surfaces. These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water service, are subject to corrosion and pitting. If the corrosion is

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

Frank, It is possible that your Whale manual pump needs to be serviced… particularly if it has been unused for a long time. My 25 is a very dry boat and the Whale pump in the cockpit is the only bilge pump I have ever needed; every six months or so I need to pump out a gallon or two

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

The mast exit plates on my 38 are held in place with aluminum pop rivets. Should I need to remove them, I’d use a small drill to drill out the center pin… which would not damage the mast at all. Be sure to use TefGel or some other anticorrosion material to inhibit corrosion between the rivets

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

Already LED-compliant. Did that the last time (when LED prices were much higher). From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:17 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question Nope, just drill them out with whatever size

Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

Great idea to keep a Lithium battery pack for jump starting an engine in emergency. However, keep in mind that they are not created equal. And unfortunately, the cheap ones are … cheap. Expect to pay at least $100 ($80 USD) for a reasonable one and double that for a goo done. In short - do

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

Rivets are fairly easy to remove, particularly aluminum ones. Just drill the flange off and punch them through the mast. I used rivets quite frequently to attach things to masts. For exit plates, aluminum rivets should work fine. Larger stainless rivets are a different story. Most folks don't

Re: Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

Hi David, I got the led strips here . Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

Nope, just drill them out with whatever size hole the rivet is. Also good time to upgrade to LED lighting, and other top of mast stuff. That is what I am also currently doing - ;) Bill Coleman C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On

Re: Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

Gary, It wasn't me but what brand were those again? Thanks. David F. Risch Gulf Stream Associates, LLC (401) 419-4650 From: CnC-List on behalf of Gary Russell via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, May 3,

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

The mast is down this spring to replace the damaged roller furler. While it is down, I decided to re-run the internal halyards due to concern about placement fore and aft of the internal spreader supports (long story). I needed to remove some of the exit plates to retrieve fish tape. The

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

I believe the rivet idea is the best approach for your situation. You aren't going to disassemble these every other year, right? Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 08:30 PM 5/2/2018, you wrote: Thanks, Josh. With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, I can think of

Stus-List LED Indirect Cabin Lighting

A week, or so, ago I promised to take some pictures of my LED Indirect lighting on Kaylarah. Now, I forget who I promised the pictures to. The lighting is made with inexpensive (weatherproof) LED strips tuck underneath the cabinets (and other cool places). You can see pictures here

Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

My issue with the Firefly batteries is they are hard to find. Apparently supply is not keeping up with demand. Also note I got a lithium battery jump starter that is about the size of two decks of playing cards that will start a cold-soaked car with a dead battery. Worth having if you are

Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries

If you are looking to replace your batteries these may be of interest. http://fireflyenergy.com/ I looked at them a few years ago and would have gone that way except I found a deal on Johnson Controls AGM group 31s, $160 CND instead of $400. The technology is not a gimmick, the research was

Re: Stus-List Stripped threads question

I second the river idea.  Quick, easy and cheap and no dissimilar metals. Bruce 1994 C 37/40+ Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 5/2/18 11:30 PM (GMT-05:00) To:

Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

I used Yellow Teflon tape for my threaded pipe fittings. As for the fasteners, I would consider using a very light coating of tef-gel. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, May 3, 2018, 5:32 AM Nauset Beach via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks Joe and

Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

Thanks Joe and Bruce. Bought some of the Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner and finally had a chance to get to the boat yesterday. Was able to remove the self tapping screws with a square drive [Robertson?] bit fairly easily. Surprisingly the interior of the tank appeared clean