Good evening all,
Have my Bomar hatches disassembled and have found an anodizing shop to
refinish the cast aluminum frames. For the anodizing to be perfect, the
silicone must be completely stripped from the frame. This is proving to
be a bit of a hassle.
Does anyone know the magic or magic
Agree with all you and Neil said except re-installing the little strip at
the forward end. Personally, I'd epoxy it from underneath or fasten a
small piece of wood under the opening and bond the peice to it. FYI, mine
has a small piece of wood bonded on the underside for the bilge plate screw
to
Steven,
Pretty sure you don't risk having the keel fall off without the forward
bolt, as I said I have plans that show only the six larger bolts. I'll
try to get a scan of the large print to put on a Google drive. Appears
to me an after the fact addition to address the smile.
My mast
Thank you so much for all the additional helpful messages on this thread.
Neil, I don't see a way to private message from this thread. My email is just
my first and last name with a period between at Gmail. I'll be at the boat,
Fidelis, at evers Marina all the time till she can launch and is
I'm using the anchor crimper. There are probably others. Just about any
ratcheting crimper will work, it it is adjustable. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca
Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club +1 253-208-1412 WhatsApp+52
669-267-4740 phone
Original message From: Joel
3M is highly regarded, you can get them in heat shrink with adhesive, which
is the gold standard as far as I know.
https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/p/d/v000195661/
On Sun, Oct 30, 2022 at 11:06 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> What brand or how do I recognize
What brand or how do I recognize high quality crimp connector
On Sun, Oct 30, 2022 at 11:01 AM Doug via CnC-List
wrote:
> To avoid problems of wires falling off of terminals. I use high quality
> crimp connectors. Try to avoid the spade connector. I also use the heat
> shrink type in all wet
To avoid problems of wires falling off of terminals. I use high quality crimp
connectors. Try to avoid the spade connector. I also use the heat shrink type
in all wet and engine room connections. I also use a quality crimping tool.
Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard
I can sympathize with you Dave, which I will elaborate on. As far as your
situation, it seems like They should be eye terminals. Probably with an
elastic stopnut on the solenoid. In fact, I think nearly all terminals on
boats should be eyes and not spades due to the problem you just mentioned
of
I think I fixed the starting problem yesterday and it is still at once
mysterious and satisfying. I started by carefully checking all the power
circuits after having gone over my circuit diagrams of how everything should be
connected. All seemed correct on the panel and I had 12+ V at all
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