If the grip range is too low (or the thickness of the wall too big), the
threaded hole will be deformed. This will make it impossible to screw the bolt.
If you have problems driving the bolt in, drill the RivNut out and use one with
a bigger grip range.
I found that the RivNuts that come by
Marek:
Once again, I appreciate your insight. Today I ordered some
RivNuts and a tool. I was concerned about the tight tolerance of the grip
range, so I did additional research. I found aluminum RivNuts with a
broader grip range, so I decided to order them. In addition, it
Don,
Nope. Collar floats with cabin roof. Mast has holes below the collar for
some sort of restraint but are not used.
The upward load is borne entirely by the mast since the turning blocks are
bolted to the mast. There is nothing attached to the collar at all.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Be very careful about the grip range. The RivNuts come in different sizes
(guess how I know). Measure the thickness of the boom wall and get the right
RivNuts.
When I needed them, I had to switch between imperial and metric to find the
right size.
Good luck
Marek
Sent from my
Looks like Trex to me. If so, tree was made with a Composite of hardwoods and
plastic. Its kind of a chippy matrrial. I wouldn't use it if that is what it
is. Paul Hood
Original message From: "steven.hickel--- via CnC-List"
Date: 2022-10-31 6:55 p.m. (GMT-05:00) To:
Thank you for the additional explanations.
Opening up the the fiberglass over the keel joint at all/ any water ingress
into joint is definitely the concern, as you mentioned Joe.
I found what seems to something like scrap fiberglass/ hdpe board around the
marina. But, the pinkish brown color
Dennis,
Isn't your collar restrained by collar brackets on either side of the
and thru bolted to the mast just below the cabin headliner? These
brackets transfer the load to the mast and not to cabin top.
Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI
On 10/31/2022 3:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
I have something similar now, but possibly my blocks are too small. They are
from Garhauer but only have two screws in each one. The backing plates are
bending and I've replaced several of the screws with rivets.
I don't see your blocks or mine in their catalog so I'm probably looking in the
Bob,
The plate should be a collar. Not sure what you're trying to do, but if
you're adding halyard turning blocks, I strongly suggest you consider
attaching the turning blocks to the mast like this:
Delete from the end back to /18/ and it will take you to the correct
page. Or go to the home page, click "Shop" and go to page 18
From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 3:22 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast blocks
Bad link
Bad link
Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 1:53:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast blocks
Like these:
Yes, like those! Thank you
Bob
> On 10/31/2022 1:53 PM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Like these:
> https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/page/18/?_categories=mast-plates
>
> On 2022-10-31 14:31, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
>
> > > What is the plate
Chuck, What size is the jib that you are using the barberhauler rig
on? I can't figure how that would work on a genoa with a an LP greater
than 135%.
Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI
On 10/31/2022 2:01 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Haven't figured how to rig a
FWIW, Had a great time at Chestertown's mini tall ship festival this past
weekend. The event gets better each year and it was great to see the vessels
being sailed on the river in parade fashion; Virginia, Sultana, Kalmar Nyckel,
Lynx, Pride of Baltimore II, Sigbee, God Speed, Maryland Dove,
Haven't figured how to rig a preventer without going forward but I do use my
barberhaulers in winds up to ten or fifteen knots as a preventer. Normally we
rig barberhaulers to pull the genoa clew out and open the slot between the jib
and mainsail. It's a simple rig; about twenty five feet of
Like these:
https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/page/18/?_categories=mast-plates
On 2022-10-31 14:31, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one attaches
turning blocks to? I need to add one to my 35-1. Does it attach to
the mast, deck, or deck
What is the plate called at the base of the mast that one attaches turning
blocks to? I need to add one to my 35-1. Does it attach to the mast, deck, or
deck collar? I'd prefer not to add more holes to the deck.
Bob Mann
Mystic
35-1 hull #85
A hand rivet tool is cheap and if you ask around I’ll bet someone will have
one. That said, did you try an “ez-out”. Also not expensive and works great
if the bolts aren’t “frozen”
Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800
From: Matt Wolford via
thanks!charlie deanssv verdad
Also, in response to Marek: the pulling load appears to be handled by the
track. The bolts prevent the boom vang fitting from moving back and forth.
Also, I plan to use the same length bolts, if possible. If I need to go
slightly longer for the RivNut, so be it. Thanks.
-Original
Getting ready to pull the trigger on the RivNut idea. The stainless RivNuts
I found have a grip range of 0.027"-0.125". I was able to measure the
thickness of the aluminum I'm going through: 1/8" (maybe a micron or two
heavy), which is the top of the range. For those familiar with these
things,
>From what I know, the RivNuts are better for shear load (rather than for pull).
Also, be careful how long the bolts you use. You don't want the bolts sticking
inside the boom (if you have any lines going there).
Just a few cents
Marek
1994 #122 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON
-Original
Hi Matt,
Did you consider riveting it in? They will often fit in screw holes that were
pulled out, are easy to install, and are quite strong. If you get to a larger
rivet size a cheap hydraulic puller from Harbor Freight will get the job done
nicely.
Rivnuts are nice but they are not likely
The first test of the 4:1 mainsheet was a resounding success, it works great in
light/medium air. I still need to grab the 6:1, I can see this being beyond my
strength in heavy air. This brings up a new issue, the preventer. Since what
was my preventer is now my mainsheet, I did not have a
How to install rivnut without a tool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6H6wr7fJYo
--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30 - 549
Armdale Y.C.
On 2022-10-31 12:04, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:
I've used RivNuts on our vang after having issued with helicoils not having
enough
I've used RivNuts on our vang after having issued with helicoils not having
enough material to get a good hold in. I did buy the tool which made it a
simple installation.
-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: October 31, 2022 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
I like that idea. Thanks!
-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair
For Option 3:
Could use a RivNut, which may increase the load bearing on the thin walled
Thanks, Barry. How thick does the material need to be for helicoil?
-Original Message-
From: Barry McKee via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 9:48 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: virb...@cogeco.ca
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair
Option 1 seems to be the best solution. Boom material
Very good analysis, Joe (as usual). Thanks.
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 10:15 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List plotters in general
Most nav programs will give you a projected course line. Some of them are
infinite and
For Option 3:
Could use a RivNut, which may increase the load bearing on the thin
walled boom.
https://www.boellhoff.com/ca-en/products-and-services/special-fasteners/blind-rivet-nuts-rivnut.php
These are commonly available at hardware stores.
You don't need the special tool, you can install
Most nav programs will give you a projected course line. Some of them are
infinite and some have controls for time or miles ahead. These are incredibly
useful, you get your actual COG including leeway and current, not which
direction the bow is pointed. OpenCPN also gives you range rings, I
You can take the forward nut off the keel bolt, or any ONE nut for that
matter, and the keel isn't coming off. The issue is that doing it in the
water can cause water ingress, which may screw up your epoxy plans.
I would also put a hose around the bolt or similar to keep from epoxying the
threads.
Option 1 seems to be the best solution. Boom material may not be thick enough
to support the helicoil solution.
Good luck!!
Barry McKee
C 29 Mk I
-Original Message-
From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: 31-Oct-22 9:22 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc:
Listers:
I'm about to undertake a repair and could use some advice. On an
overnight delivery in August we were on a broad reach in large waves and the
main unexpectedly jibed. We promptly put on a preventer. In the morning I
found 8 sheared off cap socket screws from the boom vang
Yes, Rick, that’s it. I can do also routes and other things as you describe in
your second paragraph, but I find the infinite red line to be most helpful when
heading for a destination.
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2022 8:58 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Rick Brass
If I remember correctly, RainX is silicone based and is good for removing
silicone residues.
David Betz
On Sun, Oct 30, 2022 at 11:20 PM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> Good evening all,
> Have my Bomar hatches disassembled and have found an anodizing shop to
> refinish the cast aluminum frames.
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