Re: Stus-List 35-3 polars
a 135 and a spinnaker...seems odd, i more expected a 100% jib for polars... where with regards to angle does the spinnaker come into play? Are those apparent wind angles or true wind angles...looks like they are apparent and if so the important numbers, like for apparent wind angle 25-40 suggest the boat will not move forward below wind speed 14 kts (that is in kts, correct?)...anyway I am sure the boat will go faster than 0 in those conditions. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Sun, May 17, 2015 at 7:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Good day. Attached here are the polars for a CC35-3 (Howard's in particular, but should be generic...). The polars are for a 135% jib and a spinnaker. This is in the format Raymarine's Lighthouse software will use, the format is wind speed along the top, angle on the side. 8 10 12 14 16 20 39.6 0 0 0 0 6.114 6.213 40.1 0 0 0 6.045 6.114 6.213 41.3 0 0 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213 43.2 0 5.751 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213 44.2 5.143 5.751 5.936 6.045 6.114 6.213 52 5.715 6.313 6.563 6.7 6.787 6.899 60 6.051 6.563 6.819 6.95 7.039 7.165 70 6.243 6.723 7.015 7.189 7.288 7.434 80 6.501 6.855 7.087 7.321 7.482 7.658 90 6.619 7.006 7.222 7.367 7.507 7.803 110 6.507 6.996 7.351 7.613 7.802 8.067 120 6.284 6.862 7.276 7.612 7.888 8.294 135 5.663 6.466 6.952 7.345 7.691 8.297 144 5.071 5.719 6.427 6.898 7.286 7.967 150 4.733 5.712 5.966 6.54 6.944 7.684 165 4.165 5.08 5.933 6.43 6.839 7.539 180 3.887 4.765 5.597 6.287 6.765 7.488 So for example at 70 degrees in 14 knots of wind the boat should have a target speed of 7.189 knots. The attached file is small enough it should sneak through Stu's site. And a thanks is due to Howard Paul for providing the data. cheers! -- Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
I don't see any big problem with what you are doing and especially so if both batteries are deep cycle...I have done something similar for about 8 years, maybe not as rigourously as you describe and my batteries were still good last fall...haven't checked them this spring yet but I expect them to be fine and besides I figure they already served me well but still I won't like buying new ones when that time comes Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Sun, May 17, 2015 at 7:46 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: House/starting batteries I have been in the habit of using battery one to start the 2gm diesel and then using the same battery for a house battery. Then the next day battery two to start the engine and then using that one as a house battery. This way each battery is being used to start the engine and also recharge the batteries. I have been told that this is incorrect. Am I correct or not? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Mirage in Newport
I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport
Beautiful boat! The Northeast 39 is on my wish list... Chuck B CC 34 Elusive Somerset, MA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 9:55 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Andrew I use TowBoatUS and am on the Caloosahatchee though down river - they are fine. Only had to use once in 25 yrs so they are way ahead on $ but the peace of mind when there is a problem is worth it to me. Usually they have a boat or two out and about though I am guessing Alva is not in their usual pattern- they will come save you but it may take a while. You're small enough that a cell phone and a buddy or two with small power boats may serve you just as well. You are most likely to use in 2 situations- soft un-grounding and a tow home due to mechanical failure(dead battery). Check your homeowners ins - often you can get small boat liability coverage there if under 26'. Towing Ins is separate and different than liability. BoatUS offers both Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 Message: 13 Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 11:55:59 -0400 From: Andrew Frame flasp...@dynamagic.com To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. Message-ID: 555a0b8f.6030...@dynamagic.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Hello folks. New guy here again. I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what about BoatUS? My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the coast, always daytime. My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay. 24' CC, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail under way. Thanks for your thoughts. -- Andrew Frame CC 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. Sweet, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
You may want to check Chapman's. If it's not there, I don't know where it would be.RonWild CheriCC 30-1STL From: Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 12:08 PM Subject: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Oh, I forgot to add that is should only be for the current flag officers. The US Power Squadron actually has separate flags for past officers. Dennis C. On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 12:22 PM, Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com wrote: I was under the impression that an officer's flag should only be flown when the officer is on board a vessel from his/her yacht club. That is, it should be flown on his/her personal vessel or any other vessel owned by a member of the yacht club for which the officer is a member and only while the officer is on board. This mimics naval flag rules. When an admiral or commodore in command of a unit is physically on board a vessel, that officer's flag shall be shown. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
I was under the impression that an officer's flag should only be flown when the officer is on board a vessel from his/her yacht club. That is, it should be flown on his/her personal vessel or any other vessel owned by a member of the yacht club for which the officer is a member and only while the officer is on board. This mimics naval flag rules. When an admiral or commodore in command of a unit is physically on board a vessel, that officer's flag shall be shown. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk
Depends on whether it RH or LF rotation.RonWild CheriCC 30-1STL From: Gary Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Gary Russell captnga...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 12:04 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk I thought offset to port would help the situation. No?Gary ~~~_/)~~ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Andrew, I’m insured through Travelers through an outfit called Total Dollar Insurance. The rates are great and Travelers is quick to respond to claims. http://www.totaldollar.com/Site/2105926015/default.asp http://www.totaldollar.com/Site/2105926015/default.asp. Ask for Tom Carroll. For towing insurance, I use SeaTow. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On May 18, 2015, at 11:55 AM, Andrew Frame via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hello folks. New guy here again. I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what about BoatUS? My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the coast, always daytime. My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay. 24' CC, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail under way. Thanks for your thoughts. -- Andrew Frame CC 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mirage in Newport
I’ve met Harry and seen the boat in the slip at NEB and looked at the Flickr site. Endlessly. Beautiful CC lines and a gorgeous color scheme. I should know. I stole it and used it on Ronin... Cheers, Dave Godwin 1982 CC 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ On May 18, 2015, at 9:59 AM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Beautiful boat! The Northeast 39 is on my wish list... Chuck B CC 34 Elusive Somerset, MA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 9:55 AM, Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I saw Harry's Mirage in Newport during the VOR weekend. Nicest boat on the water. Will post pictures somewhere and email the link to the list. Pierre Tremblay Avalanche #54988 CC38-3 WK, hull #76 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Andrew: You won't get boat coverage through your homeowner's in Florida. (God knows it's hard enough to GET homeowner's here because of hurricanes ...) Your best bet is Progressive Insurance. As long as you are OK with a sizeable deductible, you should be able to get coverage for $300-400 a year, as opposed to many hundreds more for BoatUS and other private insurers. The big reasons to have insurance are salvage and liability. If your boat sinks and you don't have insurance, you will have to pay many thousands for a salvage company to float and dispose of the boat. (Florida waters are shallow, so the boat usually doesn't just disappear under the waves.) Liability, of course, comes into play when you bang into that million-dollar gin palace and wreck the Awlgrip paint job. You're correct that Seatow has a bad rep in parts of Florida for an overeagerness to declare salvage and make soft groundings into something more expensive, mostly due to individual operators out for a quick buck. Progressive insurance will pay up to $500 to cover a tow, which likely would leave you with part of a bill to pay. TowboatUS covers all for $125 a year. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. -Original Message- From: Andrew Frame via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 11:55 AM To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Frame Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. Hello folks. New guy here again. I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what about BoatUS? My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the coast, always daytime. My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay. 24' CC, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail under way. Thanks for your thoughts. -- Andrew Frame CC 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Our home insurance agent was happy to provide a rider on our boat. Pretty cheap too. Then we read the fine print will not cover flooding. We didn't think that was ideal for a boat. As they say Read the fine print. KD On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 9:32 AM Kim Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Andrew I use TowBoatUS and am on the Caloosahatchee though down river - they are fine. Only had to use once in 25 yrs so they are way ahead on $ but the peace of mind when there is a problem is worth it to me. Usually they have a boat or two out and about though I am guessing Alva is not in their usual pattern- they will come save you but it may take a while. You're small enough that a cell phone and a buddy or two with small power boats may serve you just as well. You are most likely to use in 2 situations- soft un-grounding and a tow home due to mechanical failure(dead battery). Check your homeowners ins - often you can get small boat liability coverage there if under 26'. Towing Ins is separate and different than liability. BoatUS offers both Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 Message: 13 Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 11:55:59 -0400 From: Andrew Frame flasp...@dynamagic.com To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. Message-ID: 555a0b8f.6030...@dynamagic.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Hello folks. New guy here again. I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what about BoatUS? My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the coast, always daytime. My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or some kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay. 24' CC, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail under way. Thanks for your thoughts. -- Andrew Frame CC 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Hi, Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS. SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member. TowBoatUS operators do not receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount from the company based on towing a member. Of course, both make good money towing non-members. Now I don’t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead to longer waiting times for SeaTow members. - Paul E. 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc
We use Allstate insurance. It's a boat specific policy with liability and agreed value. It's vary reasonable on the lake, a fraction of what BoatUs quoted for a similar coverage. I don't know if they cover coastal areas. For tow we get some free coverage with the West Marine gold advantage plan. Regards, Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Hoo boy, The below should read ... an executive member does not qualify as Past Commodore unless he (she) completes the full term (of Commodore). This writing stuff is like math is hard too. Cheers, Russ (Alberta people will know what the remark means. :) At 10:24 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Hi Jonathan, At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. Sweet, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Only experienced Seatow service once. Fellow boater needed help starting his engine (drained battery). Seatow can out very quickly and operator was extremely helpful, pleasant etc. We noticed a couple of 10 gal diesel jerrycans on the Seatow vessel. Asked the cost of a fuel drop. Did not really need the fuel, and expected a ridiculously gouging price. In reality price per gal was less than what my Club was charging members!! Took the 10 gal. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 14:38, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS. SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member. TowBoatUS operators do not receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount from the company based on towing a member. Of course, both make good money towing non-members. Now I don’t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead to longer waiting times for SeaTow members. - Paul E. 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
I would disagree with that statement. If the boat owner was in fact a commodore and is flying the Past Comm flag along with the club burgee from that club it is fine. Geography has nothing to do with it - especially in CT where you may well have 3 clubs within 1/2 mile of each other. Yes, it should only be flown when he/she is aboard but few follow that on their private boat. Unless he is flying the flag along with the burgee from your club (implying he was an officer of your club) I'd say get over it. It has nothing to do with official business and is an honor he may well have earned. With that said, I don't fly any of my officer flags as the whole thing gets a bit silly. Just my .02 John Sent from my iPad On May 18, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. Sweet, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
Bev; When I bought my first “real” boat (the CC 25 that I still own) and was chartering in Chesapeake Bay in the early 90s, the practice you follow was the normal and preferred method of maintaining your batteries. On odd number days start with battery 1, switch to “all” for charging when the engine was running (assuming you had a “Make-before-break” battery switch so you would not blow out the diodes in the voltage regulator), and then switch back to battery 1 as the house bank when the engine was turned off. On even number days, same process using battery 2. But at the time, house loads were small. Refrigeration was a rarity. Ditto radar. No TVs. No microwaves. Just some lights and an FM radio. And boats had just two batteries – usually deep cycle 24s or 27s. As things changed and more “stuff” got installed on boats, the practice became having a large house bank and a smaller starting bank. For example, my 38 has 460AH of house and 95AH of starting battery, and the house bank will meet my needs for about 3 days at anchor. The norm changed to use the start battery just for starting the engine and the house bank for when the engine was off. Charge on “all” or just switch to the house bank for charging. That gives lots of AHs for running the “stuff” on the boat, and ensures you have a fully charged battery for starting the engine. The current best practice and preferred method has continued to evolve as more electronics and comfort gear continues to be a part of boating. Now the norm is more in line with what Edd Schilly just did in his rewiring. Big house bank. Small start battery. Start battery wired direct to starter for starting. Alternator wired directly to the house bank for charging, with an echo charger or ACR between house and start banks to recharge the start battery after the house bank is recharged. And you only use the 1-2-all switch (or a battery combiner) to combine the batteries if you need to start the engine using the house bank for some odd reason. The practice you follow still works just fine if you use your boat for day sailing or short trips, have 2 equal size batteries, and have the discipline to follow the process. My 25 has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries and only a few lights and an electric head – and that is the process I still us. If you are a cruiser and spend more time on the hook with a boat having a significant amount of “comfort” gear, you should probably consider adding to the house bank and following one of the newer charging protocols. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List House/starting batteries. House/starting batteries I have been in the habit of using battery one to start the 2gm diesel and then using the same battery for a house battery. Then the next day battery two to start the engine and then using that one as a house battery. This way each battery is being used to start the engine and also recharge the batteries. I have been told that this is incorrect. Am I correct or not? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
For my 1st sailboat, an O'day 22 I used BoatUS insurance and Towboat US unlimited package. for the 2nd boat a Viking 34 I went to Heritage Yacht insurance and still bought towboatUS unlimited. I priced BoatUS insurance but they were pretty high so shopped a bit and I liked being with a boat insurance company. I have been boating since I was a kid and bought my first boat at 16 with another buddy. It was a 16 foot runabout we used for skiing, kneeboarding and fishing and have owned a few more power boats before going to sail boats. If I have a boat in the water i pay for towboatUS and have always. I used it once about 3 years ago for the 1st time and feel it was well worth paying all those years for that one tow. My steering gave out and the weather was pretty exciting. The final bill for towing me back to my home port was about $3,000.00 and the repair cost me about $200 for a replacement edison chain/cable. Never go out without a tow insurance, I say. Danny,still shoppingSouth Coast, Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us Subject: Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:40:25 -0400 Only experienced Seatow service once. Fellow boater needed help starting his engine (drained battery). Seatow can out very quickly and operator was extremely helpful, pleasant etc. We noticed a couple of 10 gal diesel jerrycans on the Seatow vessel. Asked the cost of a fuel drop. Did not really need the fuel, and expected a ridiculously gouging price. In reality price per gal was less than what my Club was charging members!! Took the 10 gal. --JonathanIndigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 14:38, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS. SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member. TowBoatUS operators do not receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount from the company based on towing a member. Of course, both make good money towing non-members.Now I donrsquo;t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead to longer waiting times for SeaTow members. -Paul E.1981 CC Landfall 38S/V Johanna RoseCarrabelle, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
David, If I'm not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh water cooled engine, not raw water. Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine circulates water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat exchanger, the second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then to the exhaust mixing elbow? If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water pump, there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Thanks all. Checked obvious hose areas. Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, seemed fine, Will be launched tomorrow. As we are Bermuda bound in June I need to find that puppy as it will invariably find its way to the worst spot at the worst time. My guess its in the after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger. Wish me luck. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) _ Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: muckl...@gmail.com mailto:muckl...@gmail.com You can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose. On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The whistle was annoying... I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to overheating every so often like it used to do. I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole. The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year! Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go. Gary Nylander 30-1 Maryland - Original Message - From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Rohwer mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Hi David, i'll chime in and hope it helps. If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain! If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left. In a raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage. In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases. Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump, work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that it lodged in that line prior to entering the block. Hang on to any chunks you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is. After that point i doubt that there is much chance you would find it. i don't know that there is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of overheating. Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out over time. I like to lay hands on my diesel occasionally! I had a hot tub that would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug! Good luck, Rick CC 37+ Paikea Poulsbo, WA On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: A first time. Found a missing impeller vane on my 3QM30. The whole damn vane. Suggestions before I start tearing the who damned cooling system apart? Its a raw water cooled engine with a Sen-Dur retro-fit. Thanks in advance. David F. Risch C C 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
I agree with everything Rick said, but I am going to throw a little different question into the equation. I was in the same boat (ha, ha) with bev last year. Over the winter I rebuilt the system with two group 31 flooded wet cells for the house bank and was hoping to repurpose the better grp24 from the old system as a dedicated start battery and an echo charger to keep it topped up. The old group 24 is too weak to start a cold Atomic 4 so it has to goso the 64 dollar question is what do I replace it with, deep cycle (has plenty of amps to start an Atomic 4) or a car battery (lots of amps, will last a long time) or maybe one of the in-betweens dual use batteries. I’m leaning toward the deep cycle or in-betweens. Thoughts? James CC 38 “Delaney” Oriental, NC From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. Bev; When I bought my first “real” boat (the CC 25 that I still own) and was chartering in Chesapeake Bay in the early 90s, the practice you follow was the normal and preferred method of maintaining your batteries. On odd number days start with battery 1, switch to “all” for charging when the engine was running (assuming you had a “Make-before-break” battery switch so you would not blow out the diodes in the voltage regulator), and then switch back to battery 1 as the house bank when the engine was turned off. On even number days, same process using battery 2. But at the time, house loads were small. Refrigeration was a rarity. Ditto radar. No TVs. No microwaves. Just some lights and an FM radio. And boats had just two batteries – usually deep cycle 24s or 27s. As things changed and more “stuff” got installed on boats, the practice became having a large house bank and a smaller starting bank. For example, my 38 has 460AH of house and 95AH of starting battery, and the house bank will meet my needs for about 3 days at anchor. The norm changed to use the start battery just for starting the engine and the house bank for when the engine was off. Charge on “all” or just switch to the house bank for charging. That gives lots of AHs for running the “stuff” on the boat, and ensures you have a fully charged battery for starting the engine. The current best practice and preferred method has continued to evolve as more electronics and comfort gear continues to be a part of boating. Now the norm is more in line with what Edd Schilly just did in his rewiring. Big house bank. Small start battery. Start battery wired direct to starter for starting. Alternator wired directly to the house bank for charging, with an echo charger or ACR between house and start banks to recharge the start battery after the house bank is recharged. And you only use the 1-2-all switch (or a battery combiner) to combine the batteries if you need to start the engine using the house bank for some odd reason. The practice you follow still works just fine if you use your boat for day sailing or short trips, have 2 equal size batteries, and have the discipline to follow the process. My 25 has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries and only a few lights and an electric head – and that is the process I still us. If you are a cruiser and spend more time on the hook with a boat having a significant amount of “comfort” gear, you should probably consider adding to the house bank and following one of the newer charging protocols. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List House/starting batteries. House/starting batteries I have been in the habit of using battery one to start the 2gm diesel and then using the same battery for a house battery. Then the next day battery two to start the engine and then using that one as a house battery. This way each battery is being used to start the engine and also recharge the batteries. I have been told that this is incorrect. Am I correct or not? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
Josh, the proper term for what you are describing is torque steer, not prop wash. Torque steer to port in forward is present on all single screw boats with a RH prop, just as prop walk to port in reverse. A boat with a LH prop will torque steer to starboard, and prop walk to starboard. Torque steer and prop walk are primarily cause by the differential in water pressure between the upper and lower blades as the prop rotates. This generates a side thrust perpendicular to the prop shaft. The amount of side thrust is impacted by the diameter of the prop and the pitch of the blades, and by the speed of rotation of the prop. The more of each, the greater the thrust. I recently changed from a 17x10 Martec to a 16 1/2x11 Gori that has noticeably thicker blades with more pitch. I was surprised at the increase in torque steer and prop walk. Torque steer is generally more pronounced than prop walk because of the general greater engine speed in forward gear - though when backing at low speeds the prop walk can generate a lot more side thrust than the rudder can. My friend has a new-to-her 29-2 with a 2gm13F and the standard 14x9RH prop, and that boat prop walks like a bitch until you get some aft way on the boat. On power boats with outboards and out drives (no rudder) the effect of torque steer is generally compensated by the presence of a small skeg or adjustable tab on the on the drive housing that is adjusted to offset the effect of torque steer and let the boat run in a straight line. Larger boats with a shaft drive (like ours) have rudders that can compensate. Twin screw boats typically have counter rotating (1 RH and 1 LH) props so there is no torque steer or prop walk with both engines running at similar RPMs. Unfortunately this isn't always true - the 81 foot tour boat I work on has 2 300HP Volvo Penta outdrives and both are RH. The torque steer is colossal, and makes handling the boat a constant struggle. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2015 9:45 AM To: CC List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2 Sounds reasonable. To add on, would you agree that the spinning column of water which gets split by the rudder when going forward is then responsible for the phenomenon called prop-wash? I feel some pretty substantial wash and a pretty strong pull to port when full throttle but a reasonable and balanced helm when sailing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On May 16, 2015 2:08 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Well, this might be just the right time to float a theory I've had for some time about prop walk. Here it is: When the propellor is spinning, it produces a rotating horizontal column or spinning cylinder of water molecules which move away from the propellor along its axis. When the boat is going forward, this rotating column is left in the wake and, other than being split equally by the rudder as the boat moves forward, the spinning column has little to no effect on the directional performance of the boat as it is left behind in the wake and gradually dissipates. When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing water to the front of the boat as it pulls the hull backwards, the column of spinning water leaving the prop is no longer free to dissipate in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat immediately in front of the propellor. If you consider the column of water as a spinning cylinder made up of molecules of water, the outer wall of the cylinder striking the hull will cause it to roll up the side of the boat away from the keel and toward the surface, and the spinning molecules in the interior of the cylinder will be directed away from the centre line of the hull and off to the side. To see this in action, put your stationary boat in reverse and note on which side of the boat the water is agitated. If you have a right handed prop that turns left when in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the starboard side of the boat and will therefore push the stern of the boat to port. If you have a left handed propellor that turns to the right in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the port or left side of the boat pushing the stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and very useful affect known as prop walk. Just my theory, but it seems to work for me. Comments welcomed. Cheers Rich Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Almost sold (really!) in Halifax, NS. On May 15, 2015, at 07:51, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Prop walk is a function of the asymmetrical thrust produced by the angle of the shaft / rotational angle of the blades vs the water surface. The more downward angle on the
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.
Insurance is a necessity if your boat is worth a lot, but many people cruise without it. When I was single, I self insured my brand new Cape Dory 22 for 5 years. Now I own a house and I carry full coverage on my 36 footer cause I race and have to be responsible for crew and avoid losing our house should something go terribly wrong. Towing These towing companies didn't exist until the last 5 years and they can be a valuable service but I try to be more self reliant and maintain my fuel, my seacocks and hoses and steering, and carry many spare parts and tools, etc. I know I can always anchor up and figure a fix, or call a friend, or sail the boat home. I've also learned many ways to get free of sandbars. This is crazy if you make more money in a day than the a tow boat policy could cost. I don't earn that much so for me, I'll call in sick, stay another day and sail the boat home, somehow, someway. It's the best way to learn. Better for the soul. But if a day's pay is worth more than the tow company membership, I'd opt for that coverage, maybe. I'm not cheap. I have AAA for my cars so my wife and kids don't get stranded but for me I just can't justify boat towing services. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 4:45:31 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. For my 1st sailboat, an O'day 22 I used BoatUS insurance and Towboat US unlimited package. for the 2nd boat a Viking 34 I went to Heritage Yacht insurance and still bought towboatUS unlimited. I priced BoatUS insurance but they were pretty high so shopped a bit and I liked being with a boat insurance company. I have been boating since I was a kid and bought my first boat at 16 with another buddy. It was a 16 foot runabout we used for skiing, kneeboarding and fishing and have owned a few more power boats before going to sail boats. If I have a boat in the water i pay for towboatUS and have always. I used it once about 3 years ago for the 1st time and feel it was well worth paying all those years for that one tow. My steering gave out and the weather was pretty exciting. The final bill for towing me back to my home port was about $3,000.00 and the repair cost me about $200 for a replacement edison chain/cable. Never go out without a tow insurance, I say. Danny, still shopping South Coast, Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us Subject: Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc. Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 15:40:25 -0400 Only experienced Seatow service once. Fellow boater needed help starting his engine (drained battery). Seatow can out very quickly and operator was extremely helpful, pleasant etc. We noticed a couple of 10 gal diesel jerrycans on the Seatow vessel. Asked the cost of a fuel drop. Did not really need the fuel, and expected a ridiculously gouging price. In reality price per gal was less than what my Club was charging members!! Took the 10 gal. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 14:38, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS. SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member. TowBoatUS operators do not receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount from the company based on towing a member. Of course, both make good money towing non-members. Now I don’t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead to longer waiting times for SeaTow members. - Paul E. 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc
West Marine Gold Advantage is Towboat/US. But the coverage is limited. Something like $50 per incident. It is the same as the basic coverage you get with a Boat/US membership for $7.95. In fact, your Boat/US number will be the same as your West Advantage number. Generally any boat insurance (like Allstate or Progressive) will include some on-water towing coverage. But you must pay for the service and apply for reimbursement. Friends got full payment for the ungrounding of their Endeavor 35 insured by Progressive, but reimbursement took 6 months. I have Boat/US as part of my West Advantage membership. I also have a SeaTow membership with unlimited towing that costs about $160 per year. I've only used it once in something like 14 years, but given the number of hazards I navigate going up and down the ICW and the number of OPBs of uncertain condition I am on in the course of a year, I figure the additional coverage is justified. On the subject of inexpensive boat insurance: I see a lot of policy declaration pages for the insurance policies of the boats in the marina where I am the dockmaster. Just today I got a policy declaration from Boat/US for a 40 foot Marine Trader with a declared value of $54000 - and the policy had $750,000 for the limit on oil spill coverage. Just down the dock is a 28 foot Cape Dory trawler with insurance by Progressive. Something like $10K limit for oil spill, but the Progressive policy does have road service coverage for the (non-existent) boat trailer. Not all boat insurance is created equal. Be sure you are getting the coverage you need. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc We use Allstate insurance. It's a boat specific policy with liability and agreed value. It's vary reasonable on the lake, a fraction of what BoatUs quoted for a similar coverage. I don't know if they cover coastal areas. For tow we get some free coverage with the West Marine gold advantage plan. Regards, Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Flag etiquette is clear in our club- Flag officers receive a flag with either one (rear) two (vice) or three (commodore) 'bare feet'. Same graphic that is on the club burgee. http://www.cmcs-sail.org Toes up if you are the current flag officer; toes down if you are a past officer. Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 Message: 7 Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:49:16 -0500 From: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag Message-ID: CANir+yuOqYybyMtPiSk8cO08Vqg_mshanR9=clofkbchsbo...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 So I see two boats each with a club burgee from the same club and each with a commodore's flag??? So which one is really the commodore? Don't you think there would be a rule somewhere that states a past commodore shouldn't fly a commodore's flag. I quit flying my flag officer flag once I was no longer a flag officer at my club. Actually, now that I think about it, I never flew the darn thing at all. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:33 PM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can you cite that rule please sir? I don't believe a PC has to be on 'club business' to identify they are a PC of the club burgee they are flying. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 15:32, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. * Sweet*, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com *** ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2
Rick, Is their such a thing as prop-wash? If so what is it? Josh On May 18, 2015 7:22 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Josh, the proper term for what you are describing is torque steer, not prop wash. Torque steer to port in forward is present on all single screw boats with a RH prop, just as prop walk to port in reverse. A boat with a LH prop will torque steer to starboard, and prop walk to starboard. Torque steer and prop walk are primarily cause by the differential in water pressure between the upper and lower blades as the prop rotates. This generates a side thrust perpendicular to the prop shaft. The amount of side thrust is impacted by the diameter of the prop and the pitch of the blades, and by the speed of rotation of the prop. The more of each, the greater the thrust. I recently changed from a 17x10 Martec to a 16 1/2x11 Gori that has noticeably thicker blades with more pitch. I was surprised at the increase in torque steer and prop walk. Torque steer is generally more pronounced than prop walk because of the general greater engine speed in forward gear - though when backing at low speeds the prop walk can generate a lot more side thrust than the rudder can. My friend has a new-to-her 29-2 with a 2gm13F and the standard 14x9RH prop, and that boat prop walks like a bitch until you get some aft way on the boat. On power boats with outboards and out drives (no rudder) the effect of torque steer is generally compensated by the presence of a small skeg or adjustable tab on the on the drive housing that is adjusted to offset the effect of torque steer and let the boat run in a straight line. Larger boats with a shaft drive (like ours) have rudders that can compensate. Twin screw boats typically have counter rotating (1 RH and 1 LH) props so there is no torque steer or prop walk with both engines running at similar RPMs. Unfortunately this isn't always true - the 81 foot tour boat I work on has 2 300HP Volvo Penta outdrives and both are RH. The torque steer is colossal, and makes handling the boat a constant struggle. Rick Brass *Imzadi *CC 38 mk 2 *la Belle Aurore *CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List *Sent:* Saturday, May 16, 2015 9:45 AM *To:* CC List *Cc:* Josh Muckley *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2 Sounds reasonable. To add on, would you agree that the spinning column of water which gets split by the rudder when going forward is then responsible for the phenomenon called prop-wash? I feel some pretty substantial wash and a pretty strong pull to port when full throttle but a reasonable and balanced helm when sailing. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On May 16, 2015 2:08 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Well, this might be just the right time to float a theory I've had for some time about prop walk. Here it is: When the propellor is spinning, it produces a rotating horizontal column or spinning cylinder of water molecules which move away from the propellor along its axis. When the boat is going forward, this rotating column is left in the wake and, other than being split equally by the rudder as the boat moves forward, the spinning column has little to no effect on the directional performance of the boat as it is left behind in the wake and gradually dissipates. When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing water to the front of the boat as it pulls the hull backwards, the column of spinning water leaving the prop is no longer free to dissipate in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat immediately in front of the propellor. If you consider the column of water as a spinning cylinder made up of molecules of water, the outer wall of the cylinder striking the hull will cause it to roll up the side of the boat away from the keel and toward the surface, and the spinning molecules in the interior of the cylinder will be directed away from the centre line of the hull and off to the side. To see this in action, put your stationary boat in reverse and note on which side of the boat the water is agitated. If you have a right handed prop that turns left when in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the starboard side of the boat and will therefore push the stern of the boat to port. If you have a left handed propellor that turns to the right in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the port or left side of the boat pushing the stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and very useful affect known as prop walk. Just my theory, but it seems to work for me. Comments welcomed. Cheers Rich Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Almost sold (really!) in Halifax, NS. On May 15, 2015, at 07:51, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Prop walk
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
I don't believe you may fly the C flag is you're not the current C.If a PC, then you may fly the PC flag only.RonWild CheriCC 30-1STL From: Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:49 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag So I see two boats each with a club burgee from the same club and each with a commodore's flag??? So which one is really the commodore? Don't you think there would be a rule somewhere that states a past commodore shouldn't fly a commodore's flag. I quit flying my flag officer flag once I was no longer a flag officer at my club. Actually, now that I think about it, I never flew the darn thing at all. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:33 PM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can you cite that rule please sir? I don't believe a PC has to be on 'club business' to identify they are a PC of the club burgee they are flying. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 15:32, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee --JonathanIndigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I wastold by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore.With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flownin the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless hecompletes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers,Russ P.C. Sweet, 35 mk-1 NanaimoYacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarifywhether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flownday and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of aClub for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquetterules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but Ican't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to thebottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
I have watched the meter when I start the engine. The A4 usually draws about 125-130 amps or so. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 10:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. An A4 or a small diesel are pretty easy to start. I’d guess the A4 needs 200 amps or less. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
I don't know Atomic 4's but with a diesel it would be a no brainier for me - dual purpose as big as I could fit. Everyone one this list hates me for saying it but I wouldn't go near either a car battery or a golf cart battery. Current marine stuff is too good and fits into the designed space. John Sent from my iPad On May 18, 2015, at 6:56 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I agree with everything Rick said, but I am going to throw a little different question into the equation. I was in the same boat (ha, ha) with bev last year. Over the winter I rebuilt the system with two group 31 flooded wet cells for the house bank and was hoping to repurpose the better grp24 from the old system as a dedicated start battery and an echo charger to keep it topped up. The old group 24 is too weak to start a cold Atomic 4 so it has to goso the 64 dollar question is what do I replace it with, deep cycle (has plenty of amps to start an Atomic 4) or a car battery (lots of amps, will last a long time) or maybe one of the in-betweens dual use batteries. I’m leaning toward the deep cycle or in-betweens. Thoughts? James CC 38 “Delaney” Oriental, NC From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. Bev; When I bought my first “real” boat (the CC 25 that I still own) and was chartering in Chesapeake Bay in the early 90s, the practice you follow was the normal and preferred method of maintaining your batteries. On odd number days start with battery 1, switch to “all” for charging when the engine was running (assuming you had a “Make-before-break” battery switch so you would not blow out the diodes in the voltage regulator), and then switch back to battery 1 as the house bank when the engine was turned off. On even number days, same process using battery 2. But at the time, house loads were small. Refrigeration was a rarity. Ditto radar. No TVs. No microwaves. Just some lights and an FM radio. And boats had just two batteries – usually deep cycle 24s or 27s. As things changed and more “stuff” got installed on boats, the practice became having a large house bank and a smaller starting bank. For example, my 38 has 460AH of house and 95AH of starting battery, and the house bank will meet my needs for about 3 days at anchor. The norm changed to use the start battery just for starting the engine and the house bank for when the engine was off. Charge on “all” or just switch to the house bank for charging. That gives lots of AHs for running the “stuff” on the boat, and ensures you have a fully charged battery for starting the engine. The current best practice and preferred method has continued to evolve as more electronics and comfort gear continues to be a part of boating. Now the norm is more in line with what Edd Schilly just did in his rewiring. Big house bank. Small start battery. Start battery wired direct to starter for starting. Alternator wired directly to the house bank for charging, with an echo charger or ACR between house and start banks to recharge the start battery after the house bank is recharged. And you only use the 1-2-all switch (or a battery combiner) to combine the batteries if you need to start the engine using the house bank for some odd reason. The practice you follow still works just fine if you use your boat for day sailing or short trips, have 2 equal size batteries, and have the discipline to follow the process. My 25 has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries and only a few lights and an electric head – and that is the process I still us. If you are a cruiser and spend more time on the hook with a boat having a significant amount of “comfort” gear, you should probably consider adding to the house bank and following one of the newer charging protocols. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List House/starting batteries. House/starting batteries I have been in the habit of using battery one to start the 2gm diesel and then using the same battery for a house battery. Then the next day battery two to start the engine and then using that one as a house battery. This way each battery is being used to start the engine and also recharge the batteries. I have been told that this is incorrect. Am I correct or not? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address:
Re: Stus-List Towing - BoatUS v. SeaTow
I have both the insurance and the towing with BoatUS. The unlimited towing is a no-brainer in my area as Sea-tow is 30 miles away and TowBoatUS is local. I hate to admit that I’ve used them several times and the local guy is great! Helps to know the local folks and I can assure you that he will never have to pay a bar tab in our area! As for the insurance, I carry a liability/salvage policy and BoatUS was the best price/best coverage in my area. I don’t carry an agreed value policy because everyone I looked at was silly expensive when compared to what I paid for my boat. Just didn’t make sense to me. James CC 38 MkII Delaney Oriental, NC From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 7:17 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Re: Stus-List Towing - BoatUS v. SeaTow Welcome to the list Andrew. This list is a Godsend. I don't have any direct experience with either towing company (knock), but I've heard the franchises differ in customer service wherever you need one. I'd suggest joining BoatUS and buy their towing package (NOT the regular boat insurance, I've found Progressive the best for that). If I were close enough, I'd call my marina and someone would probably tow me in with the pumpout boat, but for a year of peace of mind, BoatUS towing is well worth it. Barbara Hickson Fellers Flight Risk CC33-1 Charleston, SC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Here are the proper ones http://www.commodoreinsignia.com/flags_signals.asp Toes up or down? Interesting. Reminds me of a phrase used when a cow dies. Hmmm I just can't recall it! On May 18, 2015, at 20:23, Kim Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: mime-attachment.txt ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Towing - BoatUS v. SeaTow
Welcome to the list Andrew. This list is a Godsend. I don't have any direct experience with either towing company (knock), but I've heard the franchises differ in customer service wherever you need one. I'd suggest joining BoatUS and buy their towing package (NOT the regular boat insurance, I've found Progressive the best for that). If I were close enough, I'd call my marina and someone would probably tow me in with the pumpout boat, but for a year of peace of mind, BoatUS towing is well worth it. Barbara Hickson FellersFlight Risk CC33-1Charleston, SC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
So I see two boats each with a club burgee from the same club and each with a commodore's flag??? So which one is really the commodore? Don't you think there would be a rule somewhere that states a past commodore shouldn't fly a commodore's flag. I quit flying my flag officer flag once I was no longer a flag officer at my club. Actually, now that I think about it, I never flew the darn thing at all. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:33 PM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can you cite that rule please sir? I don't believe a PC has to be on 'club business' to identify they are a PC of the club burgee they are flying. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 15:32, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. * Sweet*, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag
Dennis mou, The Past Commodore flag is very DIFFERENT from the Commodore's flag. Only a baboon could confuse them! Plus the PC always has the white hair. On May 18, 2015, at 19:49, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: So I see two boats each with a club burgee from the same club and each with a commodore's flag??? So which one is really the commodore? Don't you think there would be a rule somewhere that states a past commodore shouldn't fly a commodore's flag. I quit flying my flag officer flag once I was no longer a flag officer at my club. Actually, now that I think about it, I never flew the darn thing at all. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 4:33 PM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can you cite that rule please sir? I don't believe a PC has to be on 'club business' to identify they are a PC of the club burgee they are flying. Sent from my iPhone On May 18, 2015, at 15:32, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they should revert to flying the standard Club burgee -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Jonathan, In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as the Commodore's burgee. At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he completes the full term. So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO. Cheers, Russ P.C. Sweet, 35 mk-1 Nanaimo Yacht Club At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote: Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT Commodore. Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
The A4 draws about 125 amps starting. I use a U1 size battery as the start battery – 35 AH and about 350 MCA. It works just fine. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com COQUINA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 7:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. I don't know Atomic 4's but with a diesel it would be a no brainier for me - dual purpose as big as I could fit. Everyone one this list hates me for saying it but I wouldn't go near either a car battery or a golf cart battery. Current marine stuff is too good and fits into the designed space. John Sent from my iPad On May 18, 2015, at 6:56 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I agree with everything Rick said, but I am going to throw a little different question into the equation. I was in the same boat (ha, ha) with bev last year. Over the winter I rebuilt the system with two group 31 flooded wet cells for the house bank and was hoping to repurpose the better grp24 from the old system as a dedicated start battery and an echo charger to keep it topped up. The old group 24 is too weak to start a cold Atomic 4 so it has to goso the 64 dollar question is what do I replace it with, deep cycle (has plenty of amps to start an Atomic 4) or a car battery (lots of amps, will last a long time) or maybe one of the in-betweens dual use batteries. I’m leaning toward the deep cycle or in-betweens. Thoughts? James CC 38 “Delaney” Oriental, NC From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. Bev; When I bought my first “real” boat (the CC 25 that I still own) and was chartering in Chesapeake Bay in the early 90s, the practice you follow was the normal and preferred method of maintaining your batteries. On odd number days start with battery 1, switch to “all” for charging when the engine was running (assuming you had a “Make-before-break” battery switch so you would not blow out the diodes in the voltage regulator), and then switch back to battery 1 as the house bank when the engine was turned off. On even number days, same process using battery 2. But at the time, house loads were small. Refrigeration was a rarity. Ditto radar. No TVs. No microwaves. Just some lights and an FM radio. And boats had just two batteries – usually deep cycle 24s or 27s. As things changed and more “stuff” got installed on boats, the practice became having a large house bank and a smaller starting bank. For example, my 38 has 460AH of house and 95AH of starting battery, and the house bank will meet my needs for about 3 days at anchor. The norm changed to use the start battery just for starting the engine and the house bank for when the engine was off. Charge on “all” or just switch to the house bank for charging. That gives lots of AHs for running the “stuff” on the boat, and ensures you have a fully charged battery for starting the engine. The current best practice and preferred method has continued to evolve as more electronics and comfort gear continues to be a part of boating. Now the norm is more in line with what Edd Schilly just did in his rewiring. Big house bank. Small start battery. Start battery wired direct to starter for starting. Alternator wired directly to the house bank for charging, with an echo charger or ACR between house and start banks to recharge the start battery after the house bank is recharged. And you only use the 1-2-all switch (or a battery combiner) to combine the batteries if you need to start the engine using the house bank for some odd reason. The practice you follow still works just fine if you use your boat for day sailing or short trips, have 2 equal size batteries, and have the discipline to follow the process. My 25 has 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries and only a few lights and an electric head – and that is the process I still us. If you are a cruiser and spend more time on the hook with a boat having a significant amount of “comfort” gear, you should probably consider adding to the house bank and following one of the newer charging protocols. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:46 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List House/starting batteries. House/starting batteries I have been in the habit of using battery one to start the 2gm diesel and then using the same battery for a house battery. Then the
Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries.
An A4 or a small diesel are pretty easy to start. I’d guess the A4 needs 200 amps or less. My 36 HP Westerbeke needs 175. And a small Yanmar is around 165-180. Heck, I’ve seen lawn mowers with bigger engines than we have. And just about any motor cycle draws more cranking amps than one of our engines – yet uses a relatively tiny battery. So just about any battery is sufficient for your starting needs. A honking group 31 diesel start battery with 900 AH or a 1000 amp 4D is a total waste of space and weight. As I’ve said before, the capacity of the battery is a function of the weight. More lead means more weight means more electrons to be used. And you can divide the weight up different ways for different uses. Lots of thin plates means lots of surface area to produce current, and thus lots of cranking amps. Typical design for an automotive start battery. But thin plates are susceptible to damage from vibration and shock. (The nice cushy suspension on your car keeps the battery comfortable, too. And think about the shock loading you get in the 4 foot chop in the Neuse.) Also, automotive batteries tend to self-discharge at a higher rate and may be more prone to sulfation during long term storage. And quick release of power is at the expense of reserve capacity. Fewer thick plates means less cranking power from the same weight of lead, but greater durability and much greater reserve capacity. In lieu of high bursts of cranking power, you get lower current flow for much longer periods of time. (Current flow x time (AH), BTW, is not a constant calculation. A battery that gives 5 hours at 20 amps draw (100AH) will produce a lot more than 100AH at 5 amps of current draw.) Thick plate are the norm in a deep cycle battery. The “marine start” batteries are a compromise between the two other types. Fewer plates and thicker for more durability, but less cranking power than an automotive type. Because “marine start” batteries are intended for boats, the cost may be higher than a deep cycle with a comparable weight of lead. Pick whatever is the best value. Personally I use a BC! 27 deep cycle for my starting battery, but that is mostly so all 5 batteries in the box are the same. I will probably replace the start battery with a BCI 24 whenever it needs to be replaced in order to save cost and weight (Imzadi has almost 1 degree of heel to port – mostly because there are about 400 pounds of batteries under the quarterberth.) And at the risk of opening a s**tstorm of comment, I use flooded Exide batteries purchased at Sam’s Club and WalMart. Cheap and durable – less than half the cost of comparable batteries from West Marine and a quarter the cost of an Optima AGM. Batteries on Imzadi date from 2011, and on Belle from 2003. And as far as the prospect of leaking acid when the boat is heeled – sailing at over 30 degrees of heel is both slow and uncomfortable, and if she is ever laid over on her beam ends I have bigger problems than a tablespoon or two of acid leaking into the battery boxes. YMMV, of course. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:56 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: jtsails Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. I agree with everything Rick said, but I am going to throw a little different question into the equation. I was in the same boat (ha, ha) with bev last year. Over the winter I rebuilt the system with two group 31 flooded wet cells for the house bank and was hoping to repurpose the better grp24 from the old system as a dedicated start battery and an echo charger to keep it topped up. The old group 24 is too weak to start a cold Atomic 4 so it has to goso the 64 dollar question is what do I replace it with, deep cycle (has plenty of amps to start an Atomic 4) or a car battery (lots of amps, will last a long time) or maybe one of the in-betweens dual use batteries. I’m leaning toward the deep cycle or in-betweens. Thoughts? James CC 38 “Delaney” Oriental, NC From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net Subject: Re: Stus-List House/starting batteries. Bev; When I bought my first “real” boat (the CC 25 that I still own) and was chartering in Chesapeake Bay in the early 90s, the practice you follow was the normal and preferred method of maintaining your batteries. On odd number days start with battery 1, switch to “all” for charging when the engine was running (assuming you had a “Make-before-break” battery switch so you would not blow out the diodes in the voltage regulator), and then switch back to battery 1 as the house bank when the engine was turned off.
Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn...
Rick, Thank you. Correct on all counts except the missing vane is from the impeller which internally circulates the glycol. I need to do a bit of digging around the Sen-Dur exchanger and its design. Flat out at work all week and will be back out it this weekend. FYI...The raw water pump needs to be replaced too. Leaking shaft. $400 for a pump. Whodathunk? Damn. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Mon, 18 May 2015 18:44:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: rickbr...@earthlink.net David, If I’m not mistaken, having the Sen-Dur retrofit makes it a fresh water cooled engine, not raw water. Two water pumps, right? The pump on the front of the engine circulates water/glycol through the engine block and to the heat exchanger, the second pumps sea water to the heat exchanger and then to the exhaust mixing elbow? If that is the case, and the impeller blade is from the sea water pump, there is about a 90% chance the blade is in the heat exchanger. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 6:01 PM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Thanks all. Checked obvious hose areas. Nothing. Ran it today on the hard, seemed fine, Will be launched tomorrow. As we are Bermuda bound in June I need to find that puppy as it will invariably find its way to the worst spot at the worst time. My guess its in the after market (Sen-Dur) heat exchanger. Wish me luck. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 16:11:49 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: muckleyj@gmail.comYou can use the shop-vac to blow out the system too...or a garden hose.On May 17, 2015 4:51 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:I agree with the comments which Rick made. I had intermittent cooling problems on my Yanmar 2QM15 for a number of years - most of the time when it had been run for a while, then stopped, then started again. The whistle was annoying... I then had more serious problems, and found the impeller had come apart. I took all the little pieces of the busted impeller and assembled them with glue and tape to make sure there was nothing still in the engine. OK. With a new impeller it went back to overheating every so often like it used to do. I started again - I ran the engine each time I changed anything... After checking the hoses, strainer, pump, more hoses, and replacing the zincs, I found not much water coming through the hose leading to the zinc at the forward part of the engine. Confusing. When I pulled the hose going to the zinc area and fired the engine, I found a piece of an impeller which was hard as a rock and coated in rust stuck in there. The impeller I had just pulled was recent, no rust and not hard. All the other impellers I have changed in 20+ years of ownership had been whole. The only thing I can think of is that piece must have been in there for years - - - and only caused problems in certain conditions. Once it was removed, I have had no cooling problems for the last year! Start at one end, and follow it through. Blow out everything as you go. Gary Nylander30-1 Maryland- Original Message - From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Rohwer Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 12:44 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List Impeller Damn... Hi David, i’ll chime in and hope it helps. If you are lucky, the vane was torn to tiny particles and pushed all the way through the cooling system and you are free as rain! If you are like me, it is lurking somewhere in the system between the pump and the exhaust outlet and pretty much the same size as when it left. In a raw water cooled application, that means it could be anywhere in the cooling system of your engine block, potentially blocking or contributing to future blockage. In a fresh water cooling system I think the chunks end up in the heat exchanger or where the raw water is introduced to the exhaust gases. Just as a suggestion, try not to run the engine, and starting at the pump, work your way up line carefully checking for pieces in the hoses hoping that it lodged in that line prior to entering the block. Hang on to any chunks you find so you can get an idea of how pulverized it is. After that point i doubt that there is much chance you would find it. i don’t know that there is much you can do after that except watch temps and signs of overheating. Maybe the new fully functioning impeller will push it out over time. I like to “lay hands” on my diesel occasionally! I had a hot tub that would heal itself on occasion after a brief group hug! Good luck, RickCC 37+ PaikeaPoulsbo, WA On May 17, 2015, at 6:01 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: A first time.
Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc
I have BOATUS and TOWBOATUS. The towing insurance has been used twice since I got it ages ago and it cost so much to pay cash for a tow it was a great deal and then some. I hit a log and bent my propshaft and prop. BOATUS handled the claim with no drama and didn't blink at throwing in a new cutless bearing. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 7:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc West Marine Gold Advantage is Towboat/US. But the coverage is limited. Something like $50 per incident. It is the same as the basic coverage you get with a Boat/US membership for $7.95. In fact, your Boat/US number will be the same as your West Advantage number. Generally any boat insurance (like Allstate or Progressive) will include some on-water towing coverage. But you must pay for the service and apply for reimbursement. Friends got full payment for the ungrounding of their Endeavor 35 insured by Progressive, but reimbursement took 6 months. I have Boat/US as part of my West Advantage membership. I also have a SeaTow membership with unlimited towing that costs about $160 per year. I've only used it once in something like 14 years, but given the number of hazards I navigate going up and down the ICW and the number of OPBs of uncertain condition I am on in the course of a year, I figure the additional coverage is justified. On the subject of inexpensive boat insurance: I see a lot of policy declaration pages for the insurance policies of the boats in the marina where I am the dockmaster. Just today I got a policy declaration from Boat/US for a 40 foot Marine Trader with a declared value of $54000 - and the policy had $750,000 for the limit on oil spill coverage. Just down the dock is a 28 foot Cape Dory trawler with insurance by Progressive. Something like $10K limit for oil spill, but the Progressive policy does have road service coverage for the (non-existent) boat trailer. Not all boat insurance is created equal. Be sure you are getting the coverage you need. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 3:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc We use Allstate insurance. It's a boat specific policy with liability and agreed value. It's vary reasonable on the lake, a fraction of what BoatUs quoted for a similar coverage. I don't know if they cover coastal areas. For tow we get some free coverage with the West Marine gold advantage plan. Regards, Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
