The folks my prior owner hired for re-oiling the interior teak did a good job
of cleaning / bleaching the old stuff and a decent job of re-oiling (they may
have used Cetol )
But they did an absolutely horrible job of keeping it on the teak and not
around.. I'm taking about work that looked like
That is exactly what happened. However, my shaft is a tight fit, not slipping easily into coupler, this I am perplexed. Having said this, I know prior owner and it has been at least 10 years since installed. I think a periodic removal and inspection of set screws in order.
Bill Walker
On Jun
The guidance I received is that the shaft needs to be a tight fit inside the
coupler.
The matched prop shaft and coupler set I got back from the prop company would
not slide together by hand, needed light taps from a rubber mallet. The company
said if there was much play and even a slight bit of m
Just had my shaft slip out of the coupling as well. Zincs forward of the strut
kept it from coming out of the boat. It was "lazy, hazy, crazy days of summer"
getting the shaft back up so I could reattach it to the coupling. An hour and a
half of "grunting and swearing and beer" before we were on
Use 9mm.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:
> Not sure where you are located but Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is the
> "go to" guy in this part of the world.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 29, 2016, at 14:24, johnr via CnC-List
> wrote:
When I think of shaft set screws, I think of cone tip set screws. I think
that's what Touche' has.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 1:24 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club lau
A prop shaft company I dealt with advised me to use steel cup point grub screws
centered in a slight dimple on the shaft.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new
shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set
I get round this by having the shaft firmly rusted into the coupling. Not ideal
when it comes to removing it of course.
Cheers,
Paul.
27mk2
Sidney BC.
Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 13:06:47 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: c
hmm. wish had seen this before finished repair.
Bill Walker
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
wrote:
Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new shaft
as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set scre
all repaired. ends of bolts were worn down, I suspect over years, little by
little to shape of shaft. shaft still smooth. cleaned up the detentes with
drill, cleaned key way with file and installed new key, Snug fit, and new
keeper bolts. all well that ends well. good for another xx years I
Four years ago I put a new Universal M3-20B in our club launch, and new
shaft as well. Drilled pretty deep holes in the shaft for the set
screws, tightened them and wired them in place. After about two months
the shaft slipped out, with no apparent damage to the shaft. I think
what happened w
I believe you but that's a bit scary. Shaft installed correctly using best
practice and it still came out.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> actually there were. I can't figure out how they got free, but over time
> I susp
Lorne,
I've had the same issue. PO did not color between the lines with the Teak
Oil. I tried 'Goof Off' on our molded headliner, but it did not work at
all. I used acetone with some light rubbing and it came off. I don't love
using acetone if I don't need to, but this is what worked for me. Other
actually there were. I can't figure out how they got free, but over time I
suspect back and forth, forward reverse, wore down the bolts in the detentes.
I have a good picture I could send.
Bill Walker
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Guess
What thickness plexiglass did you use? The Plexiglas G spec. sheet shows 6mm
(.236") then 9mm (.354") as the next step up. I'm getting ready to do this and
am wondering "How thick?"
Cheers, Al
> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Make sure you get cast acrylic,
Guessing there weren't any detents in the shaft for the set screws? Good
idea to drill some if not.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 12:20 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com
wrote:
> Thanks all for replies. On investigation this morning it seems the shaft
> pulled out of the connector to transmission. T
Thanks all for replies. On investigation this morning it seems the shaft
pulled out of the connector to transmission. The two "keeper" bolts were still
in place and wired so as to not vibrate loose. The key was in the bilge,
mangled, under the connection of shaft and tranny. The zinc on shaf
Not sure where you are located but Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is the "go to"
guy in this part of the world.
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
> On Jun 29, 2016, at 14:24, johnr via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this. I believe someone posted a
> s
Jim is right about using cast acrylic, not extruded. Cast is more
expensive, but also stronger. I buy acrylic locally. Attach the old
window to the acrylic with double sided tape. Cut off the excess with a
saber saw. Don't let the blade get hot, or it will melt the acrylic. Then
use a router
Make sure you get cast acrylic, not extruded. The guy who cut my last
windows for me cheaped out and I think used extruded. Now I'm going to have
to change them out again in a year or two.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 29 June 2016 at 12:10, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
wr
The PO has teak oil all over the interior and roof, etc. What do you use
to get it off?
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
+1 on building your own! I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy
with the result. I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard
and they came out great!
Danny
On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to
No expert, but…. I put rings on the side of the mast – about six inches above
the deck – for the reaching strut, but don’t have one and never have used one.
The Phrf rules don’t allow you to attach them to anywhere but the mast, by the
way. I have not found a need for a strut, simply because we
And to amplify a bit on Chuck’s answer, since I’ve been down this road before…
:^)
If you end up switching your engine controls to either the 816 or 870 series,
depending on the age and size of your pedestal, you MAY need to replace the
entire pedestal riser as well. On my 1979 Landfall 38,
Bill,
To echo Edd’s suggestion, if your engine transmission engages by manually
moving the lever on the gearbox but not using the shift control at the
pedestal, I too believe the problem to be cable or engine control related.
Depending on which control you have, there are several items to chec
Bill,
If it goes into gear by hand, I would think it's a cable issue. Might just need
some tightening.
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.44
Hurth, ugh.Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT&T 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List Date: Thu,
Jun 30, 2016 7:24 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc:
wwadjo...@aol.com;Subject:Stus-List Transmission/prop woes
Good Morning,I have yanmar 3
Good Morning,I have yanmar 3gm30 with Kanzaki Birth KH18 gearbox. Two blade Max
Prop.Saturday after race when started engine and placed in gear no forward or
reverse. Went below and had someone shift neutral, forward, neutral, reverse.
I could see prop shaft turning. Buttoned up and worked fi
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