Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Bruce Pope / Gyrfalcon/ 29-2 / 1986 / 3492/ brucep...@live.ca / Crawford Bay, BC


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Re: Stus-List Electronic navigation - chartplotters

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.
Couldn't agree more.  I love this quote from NOAA Office of Coast Survey:
"The age and accuracy of data on nautical charts can vary. Depth information on 
nautical charts, paper or digital, is based on data from the latest available 
hydrographic survey, which in many cases may be quite old. In too many cases, 
the data is more than 150 years old. Sometimes, particularly in Alaska, the 
depth measurements are so old that they may have originated from Captain Cook 
in 1778."
My favorite - sailing directions for the south-west coast of Barbuda indicate 
the deepest water is relatively tight to shore.  We were paralleling the beach 
about 150m off and for about 20 minutes the chart plotter showed our position 
as driving down a road that runs just inland of the beach.


From: Dennis C. 
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 9:21 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Electronic navigation - chartplotters

Over the weekend I brought Touche' back home to Mandeville for the winter.  
Nice trip but a bit cold for my Southern blood.  Here's something I observed.

For those who rely exclusively on charplotters and electronic navigation, 
here's something you need to look at.  Go to Google Earth and enter the 
following in the search window:   30°18'2.24"N 87°37'34.10"W

That will take you to a marshy island in Portage Creek, a portion of the ICW 
near Orange Beach, AL.  That's where the GPS chartplotter showed the boat 
symbol representing Touche' was when Touche' was actually in the middle of the 
channel adjacent to island.  If I had been using the boat symbol for navigation 
and had been steering to keep the symbol mid-channel, Touche' would have been 
in the trees on the south bank of the ICW.

The GPS continued to show Touche' in the trees on the north bank during the 
entire transit of this section of the ICW.  Having navigated these waters 
dozens of times, I'm very familiar with them but a boater transiting here the 
first time in heavy fog

Once out of the man-made ICW the GPS returned to being fairly accurate.

Just saying, once again, how important it is to use your eyeballs and not rely 
on electronics exclusively for navigation.  Maybe it doesn't seem like a big 
deal when you're in a channel that is well marked but there are lots of areas 
with no marks, no land and seriously shallow shoals or rocks.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on bilge pumps and check valves AND A BIG THANK YOU TO ALL....

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I ordered a couple of the Bosworth valves today.  They look a lot more robust 
than the whale valves.


Also - a huge thank you to everyone who has contributed to the list.

I bought Gyrfalcon three+ years ago and she had basically been abandoned in the 
saltwater for four years previous to my purchase.  Since then...

I have stripped and refinished the hull below the waterline,  tightened keel 
bolts, cut polished and waxed the entire topsides,

 replaced port lights,  replaced floorboards,  installed new cockpit drain 
thru-hulls, new stuffing box assembly, new interior lighting,  re-designed and 
upgraded bilge and manual pumps, new head and holding tank,  new knot meter and 
depth sounders,  replaced the running rigging and purchased a new 130% Genoa,  
removed gas tank + polished/re-installed with new sender unit,   complete 
overhaul of Yanmar 2GM20F,  disassembled stiff Cinkel pedestal steering and 
lubed all so runs free,   new alternator/solar/charging stuff,  investigated 
and fixed a myriad of little annoyances ...


During all of the above I have lurked on the list and listened, learned, and 
followed the great advice offered.

Thanks to everyone and especially Stu for hosting.


Regards,

Bruce
S/V Gyrfalcon
1986 C 29-2
Kootenay Lake, BC




From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 6:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on bilge pumps and check valves

Dennis,

That's the check valve I also use and recommend.  It is a flap style instead of 
a duck bill style.  It seals better against leak by and seems to open wide 
enough so as to not obstruct flow.  I believe it would allow the passage of 
some "trash" as well.

I caution anyone considering your suggestion of a vane style pump.  They cannot 
run dry without damage.  Too many times my bilge pump has been left on or the 
float switch has hung up.  A diaphragm pump CAN run dry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jul 25, 2018, 4:32 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I've had one of this style check valve on both the electric and manual pumps on 
Touche' for 15+ years without a problem.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/bosworth-company-foot-and-check-valves-smooth-ends

I always thought it was a Whale brand but it looks like a Bosworth.

I had the "cycling" problem with the electric pump when I first bought Touche'. 
 The bilge originally discharged under the toe rail on the starboard quarter.  
Quite a long run.  I relocated the discharge to under the toe rail on the port 
side nearly directly outboard of the pump location.  Greatly shortened the hose 
length.

If I was starting from scratch, I'd think about installing a diaphragm or 
impeller style positive displacement pump and the Ultra Safety Systems mini 
bilge switch.  That would allow the suction hose to be run to the bottom of the 
bilge sump.  Right now the Rule 1500 centrifugal sits up fairly high and 
doesn't pump all the water out.  It would also eliminate the back flow issue 
without having to install a check valve.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 25, 2018 at 3:07 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

After reading your post I decided to forgo check valves on both primary and 
secondary bilge pumps and had the same experience with recycling bilge water.   
Installed Whale Gusher check valves this spring and they both leak.   It takes 
about 30 minutes for leakage to top the electronic float and cycle up pump.

Anyone have recommendations for alternatives?

Not a lot of reviews of check valves or non return valves.


Bruce

S/V Gyrfalcon

C 29-2

Kootenay Lake, BC

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Re: Stus-List I am so done with bilge pumps...

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

After reading your post I decided to forgo check valves on both primary and 
secondary bilge pumps and had the same experience with recycling bilge water.   
Installed Whale Gusher check valves this spring and they both leak.   It takes 
about 30 minutes for leakage to top the electronic float and cycle up pump.

Anyone have recommendations for alternatives?

Not a lot of reviews of check valves or non return valves.


Bruce

S/V Gyrfalcon

C 29-2

Kootenay Lake, BC



From: Randy Stafford 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List I am so done with bilge pumps...

I’ve had mixed experience with Rule pumps in three years on Grenadine.  She 
came with an old Rule-Mate 1100 that still works as intended.  Before the 2017 
season I added a second Rule-Mate 1100 under the mast step, and it came from 
the store with an inoperative internal water sensor, so automatic mode was 
useless, and reversed internal wiring or impeller so that it just churned the 
bilge water instead of pumping it out the discharge hose.  And yes, I’m certain 
I wired it correctly - this past offseason I unstepped the mast and put in a 
replacement new Rule Mate 1100 which works as intended on the exact same wiring 
- which I’d completely replaced before the 2017 season with right-sized / 
oversized wire.  There are a lot of negative reviews of these Rule-Mate pumps 
on westmarine.com (one of them mine, the most-liked 
negative review there).

On a related topic, when I overhauled the bilge plumbing before the 2017 
season, I chose not to install check valves in the discharge hoses because I 
was pretty influenced by http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm.  I wrote a 
long post to the list about my thought process - 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2017-March/091421.html.  
Turns out I drained my batteries twice last season from a cycling bilge pump, 
because I didn’t manually pump the bilge often enough.  And that sucked - I had 
to pull the batteries out, bring them home, put them on a charger, take them 
back and put them in, etc.  Fortunately I didn’t kill the battery life with 
those mistakes - they’ve been working fine.  Pain is a great teacher, so this 
past offseason I relaxed my principles and installed Whale Gusher check valves 
in the discharge hoses.

Now I’m worried that the little rubber joker valves inside those check valves 
will fail and lead to pump cycling again.  The big rubber joker valve in my 
Jabsco head only lasts about a year, I’ve found, after which it leaks and 
allows backflow.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


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Stus-List Cinkel Steering Maintenance Guide

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


I have downloaded a couple of gif images from the web for the Cinkel Steering 
Maintenance Guide.  They are very low resolution scans and therefore almost 
illegible.   Wondering if anyone has a higher resolution image they can share?

Thanks.



Bruce

29-2 Gyrfalcon

Kootenay Lake, BC
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Re: Stus-List Who made our masts?

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I Googled Jim Thoman - Cinkel and see that he has a Linked-In profile.

"President and General Manager"  Cinkel Yacht Steering Systems and Spars from 
Feb 1976 to Sept 1987.  Now "Grass Land Manager" at Farmer Jims Grass Fed Beef.

That's a switch.



From: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 6:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Who made our masts?

Not that it helps but my mast was made by Offshore Spars.  I know because there 
is a vinyl graphic about 8 or 9 feet off the deck.  You might find some type of 
similar marking if you look.

I can't recall exactly where I saw it (APS maybe?) but there was a place which 
had many cut off mast extrusions about 1" tall.  They were on a display endcap 
to show different material thicknesses, luff track designs, and mast profiles.  
Something like that would make identification of your mast quite easy.  You 
might even find an online resource.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Mar 8, 2018, 1:31 PM Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Anyone know off the top of their head who made masts for the ‘76 C 33?  Thx.
Barbara Hickson
“Flight Risk” C
Charleston, SC



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, March 7, 2018, 11:26 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Richard)
  2. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Randy Stafford)
  3. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Richard)
  4. Re:  water level (Chuck Gilchrest)
  5.  (no subject) (Bill Findley)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 12:01:10 -0500
From: Richard >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level
Message-ID: 
<8ee49429-697c-43e6-8f0c-aedda9e15...@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Yeah, we had five feet of water-and mud-in the 2nd floor of our house

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 7, 2018, at 11:42 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
>
> With a 24 foot tide here, only the roof of my house would be showing and my 
> house is 2 stories.
>
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> From: CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
> On Behalf Of bushmark4--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 11:10 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: bushma...@aol.com
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List water level
>
> That's wild, I'd like to see thathere on the Ohio river, we are waiting 
> for our docks to show out of the river from a major flood event...my dock was 
> under 24 feet of water...( boat was hauled and on high ground)!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> >
> To: cnc-list >
> Cc: Gary Nylander >
> Sent: Wed, Mar 7, 2018 10:54 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List water level
>
> Amen, the docks are under water in St. Michaels as well. It?s amazing that 
> the wind (plenty of wind) can blow that much water out of the Bay. And then 
> watch it come back in.
>
> Gary
> 15 miles south
>
> From: CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
> On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 7, 2018 10:41 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe >
> Subject: Stus-List water level

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


On a similar note

The wheel on my 1986 29-2 has been stiff since purchase 3 years ago.I have 
lube'd everything in the steering system that was recommended by folks on this 
list including pumping fresh waterproof grease into the rudder post stuffing 
box thru a zerk fitting (with old grease pushing out of the top).   I read a 
post some time ago indicating that there is likely a bushing at the top of the 
rudder post where it enters the cockpit sole - at the emergency tiller steering 
unit.  Wondering if anyone knows whether the 80's vintage C 29-2's also have  
bushing/bearings down in the rudder post stuffing box ?If yes,  also 
wondering if anyone knows where I can get replacement bushings or will I have 
to get someone to make them?

I am borrowing a trailer to haul the boat and on a pretty tight time schedule 
so would like to have parts in hand before I haul.

Thanks.


Bruce

1986 29-2

Gyrfalcon

Kootenay Lake, BC

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Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

When a friend dismasted his Catalina 28 the insurance company offered basically 
the same thing.  He found and modified the rigging of a mast that came off (I 
think) a J24 or J29 at a huge discount to new.  He used the rest of the money 
to have a professional glass monkey fix issues relating to the dismasting and 
had a ton of other work done - all buried within the repair bill.

The trick was finding a suitable used mast.   I searched Kijiji for 'Masts' in 
British Columbia and found this.  Ironically this is about a 30 minute drive 
from my home.


http://www.kijiji.ca/v-boat-parts-trailer-accessories/cranbrook/sailboat-sails-mast-anchors-and-more/1275079682?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

[https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/oHsAAOSwXXxZSefO/$_20.JPG]

Sailboat sails,mast, anchors and more | parts, trailers, accessories | 
Cranbrook | 
Kijiji
www.kijiji.ca
mast, anchors, bumpers and sails. all off a 34 foot coronado. make me an offer. 
all in good shape. lots of other bits and pieces.







From: Danny Haughey 
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 11:14 AM
To: Dave S via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast


have you considered looking for a used mast?

Danny

On 7/14/2017 12:09 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Curious - any idea yet as to cost of standing rigging and mast?
Tx.
Dave - 33-2.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 13, 2017, at 4:55 PM, schiller 
> wrote:

Corsair is out of the water and safely on her cradle.

I met with the Torresen Service Representative and the Insurance Adjuster 
yesterday.  Autoowners has stated they will authorize repair up to the agreed 
to value of the boat ($24,000).  Torresens is starting the estimating process.  
They are leaning the new mast approach.  The break is pretty rough, so a repair 
might need to shorten the mast at least a little.

Right now, the list of known items is:
Mast
Head Stay (we had to cut it to get the rig stabilized)
Bulkhead Repair
Wind instrument head
Navigation/Anchor/Strobe Light
Main Sail Track (mine was external T track)
Repair Jib (we had to cut the #6 luff tape off to get Jib off)
Repair Main (we had to cut slides off to get main stowed)
Roller Furler (my Harken MK III foils may not be available.  The furler is OK).

Separate from the insurance claim, I will have them reinforce the port upper 
chain plate and the mast collar didn't separate from the Spartite when they 
pulled the mast.  It appears that there is some wet core around the partners.  
I have them dig out the wet stuff and fill it with epoxy.

I'll keep the list informed as to resolution.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
being repaired in Muskegon, Michigan.



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Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Got a chuckle out of your (no name after 2 years).

I had an Islander 28 for many years that had no apparent name when I bought it 
and I couldn't pull the pin on a name.  Entered a regatta and put 'No Name'  on 
the entry form for boat name.   We came in 2nd on adjusted time and when I went 
to the podium with crew to get our trophy the announcer called us the skipper 
and crew of the 'NoName'  and pronounced it Nonam-eh).  That became her name.  
Stereotypical Canadian.




From: Donald Sebastian 
Sent: Monday, May 8, 2017 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List the foam monster that ate the v-berth

 Joe,

I did the same thing with an mattress from Ikea.   I cut it down and 
actually resewed the cover to fit the new wedge shape so that can be removed 
and cleaned. The loss of head space is definitely worth the extra comfort.

Just a hint to help move it.   Put it in a thick plastic bag and suck the air 
out with a shop vac and then duck tape the opening shut.   This will compress 
it down to a small ball that will  grow fairly slowly back to size once in 
place and removed from the bag.I do this each season.

Donald
(no name yet after 2 years)
C 33 MKII




On May 8, 2017, at 4:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I had finally had enough of the 1980 era fabric on 1973 era foam v-berth 
cushions and decided to make something better. I ordered a 6 inch thick king 
sized memory foam mattress and an electric carving knife from Amazon, drew an 
outline of the cushions, and started cutting.
So far so good :)
I crammed and stuffed it into the car, drove down to the dock, and now had to 
carry this huge thing in wind gusting to 30 onto the boat and get it aboard 
without getting launched off the dock. Well that was hard enough, but the next 
step was not totally thought through. The companionway and the passage past the 
head to the v-berth are not really up to king sized mattress moving. After what 
felt like a huge fight with an angry giant octopus, I finally got it up there. 
It is very comfortable too, but what a freaking pain!

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/5-forward-looking-sonar-tested-29321

[http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2016/05/Heading-pic_cmyk.jpg]

Forward-looking sonar: 5 units tested - Practical Boat 
Owner
www.pbo.co.uk
How effective is forward-looking sonar at flagging up shoals and obstacles on 
the seabed? David Pugh compares the findings from five devices Would you like 
to be able ...






From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:45 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80

Hello all!

This is a voice from the past with a question:

I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C 30. The owner is very 
keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and wants 
to keep the hull holing to a minimum.

We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they do 
not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and EchoPilot 
do.

http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/.

[http://www.echopilot.com/s/misc/logo.jpg?t=1491624341]

EchoPilot Forward Sonar - EchoPilot Platinum 
Engine
www.echopilot.com
EchoPilot platinum engine 2D forward looking sonar ... FLS Platinum Video 
System Features S-Video or Composite Video Output 200m Forward Range Improved 
performance ...



Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
integrating  a system with Raymarine?


Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C Alumnus



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Pay Stuart Murray using PayPal.Me
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[https://www.paypalobjects.com/webstatic/paypalme/images/social/pplogo384.png]

PayPal.Me
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Share your PayPal.Me page link with friends and family; splitting a bill, 
chipping in for a present, or reimbursing a friend has never been easier.


Go to paypal.me/stumurray and type in the amount. 
Since it’s PayPal, it's easy and secure. Don’t have a PayPal account? No 
worries. Getting one is fast and free.



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Bilge Pump for C 29-2

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


The Rule 500 automatic bilge pump that came with my 1986 29-2 died.  Bought 
what I thought was an identical replacement (Rule-Mate Automatic Model 
RUL-RM500A).  The new pump is slightly larger than the original and won't fit 
on the floor of the bilge in the deepest forward part of the bilge because it 
catches the edge of the keel bolt.   The keel bolt is a couple inches high and 
it takes 2.5" of water depth for the pump to activate so there is always at 
least 4" of water sloshing around in the deepest part of the keel.

Any 29-2 owners have a recommendation for a pump that will fit the very 
confined space in front of the keel bolt?

Thanks.


Bruce

SV Gyrfalcon

1986 29-2

Kootenay Lake, BC
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Re: Stus-List Looking for oil recommendation for 2GM20F

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I did a ton of homework when I bought my 29-2 with a 2GM20F two years ago and 
have been using Shell Rotella T 10W-30 with no problems.  I run my engine in 
temperature range of -5 to +35 Celsius.  Cheapest source I have found is 
walmart.





From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for oil recommendation for 2GM20F

Rotella straight 30W oil for my 3QM30.

And haul out is about a week and half away...   :^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 12, 2016, at 11:17 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Lots of different recommendations found via Google but favoring rotella t 15W40.

What do you folks use?


Located on Toronto and hauling out in 3 weeks

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Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hi Doug.


I had the same problem on my 29-2.  Installed the mast for the first time after 
transport,  tuned the rigging, everything set up and then... found the tangs in 
a galley drawer where I had stored them for transport.  I had to slacken all 
rigging before I could get the holes to align.




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 4:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2

Hi Doug.

On my 37 I cannot install the bolts if I tune the mast first.  I've done this a 
couple of times now and the only thing to do is loosen everything, install the 
bolts and re-tune.

Mike
C 37
Long Sault

Sent from my iPad

On May 30, 2016, at 8:05 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
> wrote:

When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast 
collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned 
and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is 
fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.  One says release 
the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset the 
mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in the mast 
when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks.


Cheers,
Doug

Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android
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Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  Based on your knowledge I am now pretty certain that the existing 
bolts are hanger bolts bedded into fiberglass/plywood.  I will shop around here 
for SS versions of those and/or lag bolts.  Thanks Ed for the heads up on the 
seat lifting/opening.  I will make sure to check that before drilling.

My boat is 2.5 hrs drive from home and is in the middle of nowhere so if I get 
to it without the right hardware,  I am hooped.

Really helps having others provide advice so I can go back out with the right 
gear in my bag!



From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2016 1:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

Bruce:

I recently replaced the original head on my 1981 C 34. The original "bolts" 
were not bolts at all but were what I think are called hanger bolts - part 
screw and part bolt. The screw part was into the pan on which the head sits. 
The head was held down by cap nuts. Remove the head and back out the hanger 
bolts. I carefully measured for the base of the new head, drilled, and used SS 
lag bolts. The new head mounts firmly.

I did run into a placement problem. A wall of the head compartment was angled 
thus reducing the space directly behind the head. I had the new head bolted 
down and plumbed. When I put the toilet seat on, the angled wall prevented the 
seat from lifting/opening fully. Solved the problem by reversing the side of 
the pump relative to the bowl but had to re-drill for the lag bolts. Good luck.

Ed
Briar Patch C 34
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 11, 2016 at 12:50 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello.


I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new Jabsco.  
  The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan that the head 
sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does not match these.  
There is no access to the underside of the pan.  Any ideas I've come up with 
for creating new mounts depend on knowing the thickness of the pan.

Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?

Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?

I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan is 
hollow - thinking this would be easiest.

I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with resin/adhesive) 
in new holes if the pan is solid.



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC



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Stus-List Mounting new head in 29-2 - bolt pattern mismatch

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Hello.


I pulled the existing Brydon head from my 29-2 and am installing a new Jabsco.  
  The existing bolts appear to be bedded into the fiberglass pan that the head 
sits on and of course the bolt pattern for the new head does not match these.  
There is no access to the underside of the pan.  Any ideas I've come up with 
for creating new mounts depend on knowing the thickness of the pan.

Any 29-2 owners know how thick the glass is on the pan - is it solid?

Any 29-2 owners encounter this issue and have a solution?

I could use stainless steel toggle anchor bolts that would work if the pan is 
hollow - thinking this would be easiest.

I could cut the heads off of bolts and bed them inverted (with resin/adhesive) 
in new holes if the pan is solid.



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC


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Re: Stus-List Automatic Charging Relay

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Is it safe to switch between 1-BOTH-2 while the engine is running?  I have 
gotten mixed messages about that.  Haven't tried and am starting/charging in 
the BOTH position assuming therefore that banks are in parallel and both are 
charging.   But, read somewhere that it is bad form to charge different types 
of batteries (starter/deep cycle house) this way.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2016 7:58 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Automatic Charging Relay


It's not "smart" it always starts charging the "primary" bank first.  Once the 
primary battery is full (ish) it combines the second battery.

Josh

On Apr 5, 2016 9:50 PM, "John Pennie via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Thanks Gary.  I get that and I suppose it certainly simplifies the wiring - you 
essentially have one bank for charging purposes.  No opinion at this point 
although I do feel silly having spent the last year dutifully switching between 
1-both -2.  I assume it's just a relay that connects the circuit at a set 
voltage.  Not sure how it can be smart enough to determine which bank to charge 
first but perhaps they are more than just a relay.

John

On Apr 5, 2016, at 9:13 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi John,
 I've had ACRs on my boats for the last 15 years and I think they are one 
of the best upgrades you can do.  When I bought "Kaylarah" (formerly "High 
Maintenance",adding and ACR was one of my first upgrades.  They are usually 
wired to charge the house bank first, then the start bank.  If your start bank 
was very low, you could could still use a combine switch to get the engine 
started.  I have never had a problem with the ACRs and I can't say the same 
about a 1-BOTH-2 switch.  All you have to do is forget to switch to 1 or 2 
after you shut the engine off and you can kill both batteries while sitting on 
a hook.  That won't happen with and ACR.  I think you will come to like them.

Fair winds,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 8:38 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
> wrote:
So while connecting batteries today i discovered, to my surprise, that Paws has 
an automatic charging relay between the two battery banks.  Yes, I'm still 
learning this boat.  So as I understand it, once voltage hits 13.6 volts (or 
13.0 for 2 minutes) the relay will automatically combine the two banks to share 
the changing source.  Not sure how I feel about that.

On the plus side, I guess it's great that I don't have to worry about moving a 
battery selector switch while the engine is running.  On the down side -

How does a battery charger monitoring two banks handle this?  I just seems it 
has to screw up the logic on the charger.
Essentially there is no way to isolate charging?  So if I know I only have 
limited time to charge and want to concentrate on one bank I have no choice?

What I missing?

John


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Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

Good one! I am taking that as a no.

A friend who owns a Shock 35 dropped his last summer - in the water -  and 
insisted "it will be no problem" and that the rudder "will float" so don't have 
to worry about salvaging it off the bottom.

Pretty sure he is off his meds .





From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Ron Ander via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ander
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder


The funny answer is that you can drop it once!



Sorry, I couldn’t resist that answer.



Ron Ander

C 29 Mk 2

E.Y.C.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Pope 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 4:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Pope
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder



Hello.

I am looking for advice on the same topic for my 86 29-2 so anything that 
answers Bob's questions below will be greatly appreciated by myself as well.

I hauled after purchase a year ago and the rudder was badly blistered.   I only 
had a week to work with (and a gazillion things to do)  as I was transporting 
and launching the boat to get it off my buddies loaner trailer so I ground out 
the blisters letting them drain, built a tarp house around the rudder and ran a 
hair dryer around the clock (until hairdryer melted) hoping to dry out as much 
as possible.  At the end of the week I puttied/faired,  painted on a couple 
base coats, a couple coats of antifoul and launched it.

The rudder is also very stiff (wheel steering) and is in obvious need of a 
service.



I am thinking the best plan would be to drop the rudder and open it up a bit 
more to completely dry it and/or inspect?

Hope this isn't too dopey a question but can I drop the rudder while the boat 
is in the water?



Regards,



Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC













From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Bob Hickson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder



A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of the 
rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)

This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in preparation 
for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading edge.

When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8 
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the 
starboard side.

The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and over 
the full height of the rudder.

I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside the 
rudder.

The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don’t think balsa 
coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and dry foam 
in good condition.

There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in 
diameter.

I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.

I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.

My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5 inches 
/ second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.

I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would 
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my way 
to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections cured.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?

Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there 
approximately location?



Fair Winds,



Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com<mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com>






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Re: Stus-List winter condensation

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I hang the CaCl in nylon stockings over big buckets in the v-berth, head, and 
salon.

Cut nylon in half, fill each leg 1/2 way,  lasts about a month and no worries 
about overflow.

Plus my girlfriend loves it when I use her nylons for stuff like that.

Someone mentioned mold/mildew formation.  I used to get that but don't now that 
I wash the interior with a diluted bleach solution  before I put the boat away 
for winter.


Bruce

s/v 'Gyrfalcon'

'86 C 29 MK II

Kootenay Lake, BC

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Re: Stus-List Sails

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

I have used Oxiclean on my Dacron sails for years and had no ill effects.

Cleans off mold/mildew other misc. stains including blood (don't ask).


Bruce


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Douglas via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, December 2, 2015 1:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails


Martin

I Oxyclean and similar products contain dehydrated hydrogen peroxide and I read 
where that is bad for some sail. I don't know if that is true or not. Do you 
know. I know that would really brighten up the sail.

I thought about using it.

I don't mind the cost, but it is extremely too high just to clean the sail and 
repairs are extra. That is close to 1/3 the price for a similar sail.  I have a 
friend who has a sewing setup similar to a Para loft (military parachute shop) 
and do any stitching I need.

I was going to hang 3 or 4 closet 1" dowel from the ceiling in the garage and 
drape it over the rods like Christmas candy ribbon.  That should give plenty of 
room to dry them. I could tie them to the bumper and a couple of fir trees, but 
I don't the fir drippings would be good for the sails.

I will contact a couple of sail places in the area and see what say. I hear 
they all are sent to Bainbridge Island for cleaning.

Larry






From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Douglas via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Stus-List Sails

Happy Holiday Everyone

I purchased my boat a year ago and trying to learn everything I can, while at 
the same time spit and polish the boat.

She is a 38-ft MKIII. I just took the Jib/Genoa down to replace on the running 
rigging. Now I want to CLEAN and store the sail for the winter. I believe it is 
125% Genoa. Just not sure what material. It is neil pryde sail.

The question is, what is the best way to clean such a large sail. I have read 
the solution should be a mild laundry detergent and fabric softener, Is this 
correct.

I thought about putting a tarp in the back of my pickup bed and letting it soak 
overnight and then pulling it out by the head and scrubbing with a soft nylon 
brush on both sides as I go. I can take a couple of sawhorses and build a 4X8 
work platform to scrub on. Rinsing and flaking it onto another tarp on the 
ground. Then hanging it in the garage to dry.

Any thoughts. How do you all do it?

Thanks

Larry
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