Stus-List (no subject)

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 The boat I have shared with a friend is being sold.  How do I unfriend from 
this list.  It has been great but time to move on.
Frank Schenk___

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Re: Stus-List 1973 30-1 For Sale in WA

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

In the DFW area that boat would sell for about $9,000 however it would not be 
in that good condition.
Frank 

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 11:48 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Here’s a nice-looking 1973 30-1 for sale in Washington state: 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/C%26C-30-MK-I-Sloop-3069749/Gig-Harbor/WA/United-States#.WeBDLa2ZO8U

She has the same cockpit arrangement as Grenadine - boom-end sheeting, 
traveller on transom, tiller steering.  Looks like she’s had some 
customizations.  The price would seem to reflect it.

I don’t know anything about this boat other than what’s in the listing; just 
happened to notice it on the web tonight.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Marek,
I would never use a thong for a fuel filter.  It makes women angry. :)
Frank 

On Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:47 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 -- P 
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv8694052617 I had one like that and also the 
$5 more version, the Maxximum. Each lasted about 3 times. They must ave been 
the Monday morning production. The only good thong was that they all failed 
quickly enough to get the refund.
MarekFrom: CnC-List  on behalf of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List 
Sent: September 10, 2017 12:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search Merek
I'm trying to remember there I bought my last one.  I think it was either 
Canadian Tire or Princess Auto.  I bought the cheap ones and they don't last 
long. Although the one I bought I consider it cheap as it was in the 20-25 
dollar range.
I think this is the one I've had for a few years.  
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-drill-pump-kit-0543802p.html#srp
MikePERSUASION
C 37 K/CBLong Sault
On Sep 9, 2017, at 9:46 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:



#yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 -- _filtered #yiv8694052617 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8694052617 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;}#yiv8694052617 #yiv8694052617 p.yiv8694052617MsoNormal, #yiv8694052617 
li.yiv8694052617MsoNormal, #yiv8694052617 div.yiv8694052617MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv8694052617 a:link, 
#yiv8694052617 span.yiv8694052617MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8694052617 a:visited, #yiv8694052617 
span.yiv8694052617MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8694052617 
.yiv8694052617MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv8694052617 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv8694052617 div.yiv8694052617WordSection1 {}#yiv8694052617 
Maybe I am unlucky, but I never had any of these pumps last longer than a 
couple-three times.   Marek   Sent from Mail for Windows 10   From: 
Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 21:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search   Denis   I use a cheap 
transfer pump operated by a drill.  Pumps 5 gals in a couple of minutes.  No 
more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills.  Can pump a jerry can 
dry, less than a tbsp.  Now you purist hush.  I'm pumping diesel.  Been doing 
it for 4 years.   MikePERSUASIONC 37 K/CBLong Sault   > On Sep 8, 2017, at 
12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:   
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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I also countersink all screw and bolt holes so the caulking can make a better 
seal.
Frank 

On Friday, September 8, 2017 3:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the penetrations 
of the screws. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow  Subject: Stus-List 
teak wood to the cockpit 
Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?___

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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Good question.  I always put some caulking to prevent any moisture from seeping 
through the screw holes.
Frank 

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 5:56 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?___

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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I am not recommending learning on a sailboard but it teaches you how to adjust 
a sail.  Only on a sailboard do you feel the pressure of the wind on a sail and 
how you have to adjust for the direction of the wind.  Like I said before, I 
have sailed large and small and enjoyed them all.  What a thrill it would be to 
steer a large ship.
Frank 

On Wednesday, August 30, 2017 5:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  Actually, I don't find windsurfing as a learning tool for sailing.  Totally 
different technique. It is like snowboarding and skiing- both are done on snow, 
but one skill does not translate to the other. 
Dinghy, on the other hand, will teach you a lot. Some older people  (and I 
don't mean old) may find them uncomfortable or challenging, but you can learn 
much easier the basic techniques of sail trimming and general sailing. 
Of course, this would not help with big boat handling. You need to learn how to 
dock, moor, anchor, do a MOB, stop, or what a prop walk is. Even the proper 
technique of hoisting sails. That you need to learn on a big (bigger?) boat. 
Marek 
 Original message From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/29/17 21:44 (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Irvin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat 
Very good points. Windsurfing will substitute nicely for mall boat sailing.

sailing schools that I have heard of start novices out in Catalina/Capri 21's 
or J24's.

NeilFoxfire C 32Rock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661 
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Re: Stus-List Learning to sail in a small boat

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I learned to sail in a Columbia 25 MKII.  It was easy because it was forgiving. 
 My sailboard was a lot more difficult because I had to react quickly.  I do 
not think it makes much difference in how you learn IF YOU LEARN.  I have 
sailed boats as small as a Sunfish and as large as a 30 foot Catalina.  I enjoy 
all of them.
Frank 

On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Seems to be interest in this topic.
I'm a strange one.  I'm a recovering beach cat sailor but I understand the 
wisdom of learning to sail in a small boat.
I greatly improved my sailing acumen with some time on a Laser and again on a 
Lido (Still have the Lido).  Simply put, you can feel the tiniest changes in a 
small boat.  Shift your weight an inch or so and it affects the boat.  Wave 
effects are amplified.  You just "feel" the boat so much better.  Plus, 
dinghies are a kick in the butt to sail.  Good fun!
Many of the best sailors in my area started in dinghies.  We have Mallory Cup 
winners, regional winners, etc.  They all swear by learning in dinghies.  
Everything you learn in a dinghy transfers to big boats.
On the other hand, I can appreciate that many folks are uncomfortable in small, 
unstable dinghies.  Heck, many folks are uncomfortable on some big stiff 
sailboats.  :)
If you're a cruiser who is not interested in racing or performance sailing, you 
should have no problem skipping the dinghy learning.  If you want to improve 
your sailing skills, consider jumping in a sailing dinghy and playing.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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Re: Stus-List Storm Harvey

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

The movement of this storm is not very predictable.  It will be several more 
days until a path can be determined.
Frank 

On Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Dennis, you're rightif this prediction is true, Harvey will end up 
directly over top of us in Louisville, KY by next Friday-Saturday...!
 
 
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Fri, Aug 25, 2017 7:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Storm Harvey

Interesting.  Go here:  https://www.windy.com/?29.310,-94.285,7
Click the "Play" arrow at the bottom.
Dennis C.___

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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Most water pumps can be rebuilt.  I would guess that all you need is a new 
seal.  Surely any good mechanic could replace it if they have the right 
equipment.
Frank
 

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 10:46 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
Yanmar 3GMF.
It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!

Are there reasonable alternatives?

Thanks


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I have heard that the best way to dry an electrical item is to put it in an 
oven at low heat.  I have a drill motor like yours that I bought on sale at Ace 
hardware.  BTW, I assume you still have a second battery so if you can salvage 
the motor you are not at a total loss.
Frank 

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion 
battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of 
salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able 
to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it 
later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

A power washer and bleach generally does the job if you let the bleach soak in.
Frank 

On Thursday, April 27, 2017 12:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I'm trying to clean an old beach cat I've had in my back yard for, well, for a 
"while".  It has lichen growing on it.  What a chore.  It's headed for 
Craigslist.
Anyway, it is badly stained.  I'll mix up some oxalic acid to remove most of 
the stains.  Hopefully the rest will polish out with some Aquabuff 2000 and a 
DA polisher.
Re the recent discussion on wood bleach, etc.  Here's another source for oxalic 
acid if you want "marine" stuff.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63896

Otherwise, a hardware store should have it.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Send the injectors to a diesel repair shop.  They know what they are doing.
Frank 

On Friday, March 31, 2017 9:06 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Past experience makes me think that it is a matter of luck.  I assume you know 
to fill the fuel bowl after inserting the filter.  Turn on the ignition switch 
to start the electric pump and open the bleed screw on the top of the filter.  
I do not recall if there was another bleed valve at the mechanical pump.  The 
last bleed point is at the injectors.  After this, with luck, the engine should 
start.
Frank 

On Thursday, March 30, 2017 7:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The 
manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that 
means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and 
it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want 
to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to 
the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  
Thanks- Dave
Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Bruce,
Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.  Unless 
you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.  Later you can 
do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
Frank 

On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when the 
boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner 
tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being said, DOW 795 
is much better than the typical silicone and may work better than what the PO 
used.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  
Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  
Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  
Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
Thanks! 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Battery tester

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I like the KISS method.  Use a multimeter to check the battery when fully 
charged.  It should be about 12.5 volts.  Check it when the engine is running 
and it should be 13.5 volts or higher.  If the battery cannot be recharged to 
12.5 volts, it is probably bad.  That is when you pull it out and take it to a 
battery store.  This has worked for me for more years than most of you guys 
have been alive,.
Frank 

On Monday, October 3, 2016 1:21 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I would like to be able to monitor the health of my batteries without having 
to haul them off the boat.  I looked at Amazon and found many battery testers 
(load and conductance) from $15 to $250.  Has anyone tried any of these devices 
and have any suggestions on what to buy or not to buy? Dave  
Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Ryan,
It is called "Caveat Emptor" or let the buyer beware.  I will now shut up and 
let you guys get back to business.
FrankC 29
 

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 10:58 AM, Ryan Doyle  
wrote:
 

 Thanks Frank.  I'm sorry to hear about that Columbia.  If I sold this boat to 
someone who let her go like that I'd be heartbroken. 
I had two showings last weekend - one was a couple who knew their way around 
the boat, the second were two people who I think stumbled down the dock from a 
bar up the street.  They clearly had no idea what they were looking at!  
Much to my wife's chagrin I do a lot of research I pretty much read up on 
sailboats and look at listings during every ounce of my free time.
And thanks for the warnings about Craigslist.  I get scam calls all the time, 
but I'm pretty good at figuring out who's legit.  I've also got her on Boat 
Trader.  
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 1, 2016, at 11:47 AM, Franklin Schenk  wrote:


You should have no problem selling your boat at that price.  I hope you find a 
buyer who will appreciate all you have done.  My past experience has shown that 
many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant.  I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for 
$2700 which was far below the average price of $4000.  It was in very good 
condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor.  I felt I had my 
monies worth after 38 years.  After 4 years and three other owners it sold for 
$2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor.  I would only pay about $1000 for 
a boat in that condition.  The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never 
checked the price of a similar boat.  Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do 
your homework before buying or selling a boat.
FrankC 29  

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hey All,

The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer.  Most likely a C landfall 
38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget.  Our 
max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has 
good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30.  

Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted 
yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I 
don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy 
the same boats... ;)

My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - 
many of which I posted about on here.  I have her listed on Craigslist for 
$8450 - I know that's cheap.  This is why - Her interior was renovated (very 
nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded 
and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original 
looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now..  We love her 
huge galley.  We sail her regularly on weekends.  She's a great boat - stiff as 
all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great.
She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ.  If she doesn't sell 
by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the 
Sheepshead Bay Yacht club.  
I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would 
like to see her. 
The listing:
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html

Recent upgrades:
-Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 
gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge 
duplex)-New bottom paint spring 2016-Hull paint spring 2016-Deck and grip paint 
summer 2016-Water pump rebuilt spring 2016-Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve 
installed spring 2016-Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 -New fuel 
tank straps, ground, and fill ground-New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main 
breaker panel - winter 2015-2016-Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 
2016-All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015-New Raymarine i40 depth 
finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016-New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS 
chartplotter  - April 2016-New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 
2016-New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016-New 
low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016-New engine blower fan and 
hose - March 2016-New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016-New fuel tank 
vent hose - Nov 2015-New interior ventilation fans - April 2016-New main bilge 
pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016-New forward switched Rule 500gph electric 
bilge pump for forward bilge - April 2016-New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 
2015-New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Mike,
The second owner was a friend of the guy I sold it to and he knew that it was 
worth $1000 or more.  After removing the motor he gave the boat to a guy who 
ran a dog rescue organization.  It was now a tax write off so he made money off 
of a free gift.  The dog guy is a real crook who sell boats to people who 
cannot afford them.  He then takes them back when they cannot keep up the 
payment. Yes, there are crooks out there in the boat buying and selling 
business.
Frank 

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 11:57 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 #yiv1568516186 #yiv1568516186 -- _filtered #yiv1568516186 
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span.yiv1568516186MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
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{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1568516186 div.yiv1568516186WordSection1 
{}#yiv1568516186 Frank    Obviously somebody had no idea what a new 9.8hp 
electric start motor costs (over $2700) and ruined it.  Possibly they did know 
and sold it separately and then figure they can double their money by also 
selling the boat    Sad to see people destroy a loved one …    Mike Persistence 
Halifax, NS    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf 
Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2016 12:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Franklin Schenk; Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale    You should 
have no problem selling your boat at that price.  I hope you find a buyer who 
will appreciate all you have done.  My past experience has shown that many, if 
not most, boat buyers are ignorant.  I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for $2700 which 
was far below the average price of $4000.  It was in very good condition and 
had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor.  I felt I had my monies worth after 
38 years.  After 4 years and three other owners it sold for $2950 and it was a 
total wreck with no motor.  I would only pay about $1000 for a boat in that 
condition.  The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never checked the 
price of a similar boat.  Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do your 
homework before buying or selling a boat.    Frank C 29     On Thursday, 
September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:    Hey All,

The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer.  Most likely a C landfall 
38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget.  Our 
max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has 
good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30.  

Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted 
yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I 
don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy 
the same boats... ;)

My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - 
many of which I posted about on here.  I have her listed on Craigslist for 
$8450 - I know that's cheap.  This is why - Her interior was renovated (very 
nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded 
and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original 
looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now..  We love her 
huge galley.  We sail her regularly on weekends.  She's a great boat - stiff as 
all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great.    She's 
at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ.  If she doesn't sell by Sept 
24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the Sheepshead 
Bay Yacht club.      I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for 
Hermine if anyone would like to see her.  
The listing:
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html

Recent upgrades: -Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, 
insulated 14 gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 
gauge duplex) -New bottom paint spring 2016 -Hull paint spring 2016 -Deck and 
grip paint summer 2016 -Water pump rebuilt spring 2016 -Ignition switch fuel 
solenoid valve installed spring 2016 -Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy 

Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

You should have no problem selling your boat at that price.  I hope you find a 
buyer who will appreciate all you have done.  My past experience has shown that 
many, if not most, boat buyers are ignorant.  I sold my Columbia 26 MKII for 
$2700 which was far below the average price of $4000.  It was in very good 
condition and had an almost new 9.8 electric start motor.  I felt I had my 
monies worth after 38 years.  After 4 years and three other owners it sold for 
$2950 and it was a total wreck with no motor.  I would only pay about $1000 for 
a boat in that condition.  The buyer had never owned a boat and obviously never 
checked the price of a similar boat.  Sorry for the rant but I hope you guys do 
your homework before buying or selling a boat.
FrankC 29  

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 9:42 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hey All,

The wife and I are moving on up to a 38-40 footer.  Most likely a C landfall 
38, a Cal 39, or an Ericson 38 if we can find one that fits our budget.  Our 
max budget is about 30k - so, I am looking for a boat that needs tlc, but has 
good bones that I can fix and restore like I did my C 30.  

Rob, I'm sorry to post about another 30 for sale when I saw you just posted 
yours, but I believe your boat is a mkii, and it's a much later model, so I 
don't think we're after the same buyers... That said, we may be looking to buy 
the same boats... ;)

My 1976 C 30 has been lovingly restored, with the below list of upgrades - 
many of which I posted about on here.  I have her listed on Craigslist for 
$8450 - I know that's cheap.  This is why - Her interior was renovated (very 
nicely) by a previous owner and she has newer Lexan portlights (just re-bedded 
and re-sealed this spring), so she won't fetch as much as a totally original 
looking 30, but she needs absolutely nothing to go right now..  We love her 
huge galley.  We sail her regularly on weekends.  She's a great boat - stiff as 
all heck and she handles the ocean passage from Brooklyn to NJ great.
She's at a marina (paid thru Dec) in Island Heights, NJ.  If she doesn't sell 
by Sept 24th I'll be sailing her back to Brooklyn where she will be at the 
Sheepshead Bay Yacht club.  
I'll be at the boat this Saturday preparing her for Hermine if anyone would 
like to see her. 
The listing:
https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/boa/5705263847.html

Recent upgrades:
-Total re-wire with new 14 gauge marine Ancor wire throughout, insulated 14 
gauge duplex wire on deck and in bilge (forward bilge pump is 16 gauge 
duplex)-New bottom paint spring 2016-Hull paint spring 2016-Deck and grip paint 
summer 2016-Water pump rebuilt spring 2016-Ignition switch fuel solenoid valve 
installed spring 2016-Keel joint sealed with G-Flex epoxy spring 2016 -New fuel 
tank straps, ground, and fill ground-New Blue Sea systems 12 circuit main 
breaker panel - winter 2015-2016-Chainplates re-bedded and re-sealed April 
2016-All Portlights rebedded and resealed - fall 2015-New Raymarine i40 depth 
finder and through hull Transducer - April 2016-New Lowrance Elite 4 GPS 
chartplotter  - April 2016-New low-draw LED navigation lighting - April 
2016-New low-draw LED anchor/steaming light at masthead - April 2016-New 
low-draw LED interior lighting - Winter 2015/2016-New engine blower fan and 
hose - March 2016-New Plastimo mini contest compass - March 2016-New fuel tank 
vent hose - Nov 2015-New interior ventilation fans - April 2016-New main bilge 
pump hose/new thru hull - April 2016-New forward switched Rule 500gph electric 
bilge pump for forward bilge - April 2016-New 7w Ganz solar panel - October 
2015-New cabin sole carpeting - spring 2016
Ryan

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I recently borrowed an old Cruiseair unit from a friend. It needs a shot of 
Freon but works reasonably well.  I suggest that you contact them at 
cruiseair.com for new models.
Frank 

On Friday, August 19, 2016 11:08 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Listers,
We’ve had some really hot days up here in the Northeast and the Admiral is 
thinking air conditioning. I don’t really want to go through the expense of 
installing a marine air conditioner and through-hull valves, but I have been 
hearing stories of boaters putting one of those portable AC units on board with 
the exhaust hose going out through a hatch. 
I would probably stick with an 7,000-8,000 BTU using drawing 7-9 amps. The 
specs say that can cool 250 square feet, which I think would make the inside of 
a boat cabin quite comfortable. Obviously would only be used during shore power 
or while the engine is running (I have a high-amp alternator and a great 
inverter on board). 
Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 




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Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

As a lazy person I try the easy things first like tightening the screws.  What 
is the spacing of the screws?  6 to 8 inches is about right.
Frank 

On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Our first season with a 1978 C 34-1.  The PO re-did the windows using 
plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the tube 
on the boat) and screws.  One window has a slight leak that seems to come in 
from the top of the plexi where water can collect.  I'd like to do a quick fix 
for the rest of the cursing season, then a more involved longer term solution 
(if required) when the season is over.  Any tips?
Thanks,  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List Sail Cover

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks Jeffrey but that looks like a lot of work for me to do on a friends 
boat.  When I was in High School a teacher said if you are looking for an easy 
way to do a job give the task to a lazy guy. LOL 

On Monday, August 1, 2016 4:16 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

  A loop of rope on one side and a rope with a chineese button knot in it would 
work.  That way you could just butten it up. Here's a youtube of the knot: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQH2FnHoByc
  
 On 8/1/2016 5:58 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List wrote:
  
   My friend has a sail cover with eyelets on each side in lieu of what I call 
twist snaps.  He presently uses carabiner clips which take extra time to 
attach.  My thought was to thread a line from eyelet to eyelet as this would be 
much faster.  Any ideas would be appreciated. 
  Frank C 29   
  
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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 -- 
 Boat_SigCheers,
     Jeff Nelson
     Muir Caileag
     C 30
     Armdale Y.C.
     Halifax
  
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Stus-List Sail Cover

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 My friend has a sail cover with eyelets on each side in lieu of what I call 
twist snaps.  He presently uses carabiner clips which take extra time to 
attach.  My thought was to thread a line from eyelet to eyelet as this would be 
much faster.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
FrankC 29 ___

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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I think what is happening is that either a shroud or a stay has hit resonant 
frequency.  I think that either tightening or loosing it will eliminate the 
noise.  Resonant frequency is the natural frequency of an object.  This happens 
to my wife when she gets mad at me and is wound up tight.
FrankC 29 

On Monday, July 25, 2016 3:16 PM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while on 
the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a 
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the 
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of that 
without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower that is 
a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but does not go 
away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C 37 Northern Light

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Re: Stus-List Shouldn't there be some kind of Wally Award?

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I agree.  We can learn a lot from this because sites like this cover many 
problems.  It also makes us closer to the person doing the job.  We also can 
laugh at their mistakes and remember when we did the same thing.
FrankC 29 

On Monday, July 25, 2016 12:44 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hi All,
I went to Dave’s Windstar site, and I think we need some kind of Wally Award 
for folks, not only fixing up these good old boats, but documenting and sharing 
their process. I know, I know, he’s not starting with a hole in the water, but 
let’s at least give him a little encouragement, and lots of thanks.This is, 
after all what,makes this list so great, and helps us all keep sailing. . .
2 cents, Lees/v SimplicityA 1974 C 35-II project.As Gary says, West of 
Ballard. 
On Jul 24, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
wrote:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery monitor, 
revised grounding etc.
Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lighting upgrades to 
finish plus installation of Calframo fans and .. well the fridge and maybe an 
automatic bilge pump.   So, nearly done!
Other work also documented and posted.
Dave  33-2 Windstar.

   

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Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Mike and David
When I worked at Bell Helicopter as a project engineer I spent time at the Yuma 
Proving Grounds doing weapon's testing.  Since we were off site, union rules 
did not apply.  I was able to work with the technicians and they taught me a 
few simple rules.  First jiggle the connector and then check the ground wire.  
I use a backpack when I go to the lake and generally carry my multimeter with 
me.
FrankC 29 

On Saturday, July 23, 2016 10:10 AM, David via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 #yiv5861398800 #yiv5861398800 --.yiv5861398800hmmessage 
P{margin:0px;padding:0px;}#yiv5861398800 
body.yiv5861398800hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}#yiv5861398800 
In my world...it seems that all electrical problems are usually ground 
related...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2016 10:25:40 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: persuasio...@gmail.com

Frank
When my gauge stop working it was only a loose ground.

MikePERSUASION
C 37 K/CBLong Sault
On Jul 22, 2016, at 8:45 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


 Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half 
full.
Frank

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Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I know how to read a multmeter.  Now all I need is for the temperature 
to drop below 100 degrees so I don't die from the heat. 
FrankC 29  

On Friday, July 22, 2016 10:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 The fuel level sender is just a variable resistor.  There should be 1 wires 
going to the sender.  The resistance is that felt from the sense  wire to 
ground.  As the level changes the voltage dropped across this resistance 
changes and in turn is registered on the gauge.  The easy way to check the 
sender is to measure the resistance from the sense wire to ground.  Be careful 
not to accidentally measure the resistance of the 12v supply.  I seem to 
remember that the typical moeller float senders are 300 ohm?  So you should see 
between 30 and 300 ohms and most likely at half full something close to 150 
ohms.Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 22, 2016 8:47 PM, "Franklin Schenk via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half 
full.
Frank
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Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half 
full.
Frank___

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Re: Stus-List Dull red hull

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I bought a Columbia 26 MKII in 1974 and moved it to the Corinthian Yacht Club.  
In 1976 I moved it to Lake Grapevine because it was closer to where I live in 
Bedford.  I sold my boat in 2012 because the slip fees went up every year.  
Since then I have sailed with the American Airlines Sailing Club and several 
other people.  I teamed up in January of this year with the guy who owns the 
C/C 29.  He pays the slip fee and I do most of the repairs for him.  Actually 
the boat is a mess/wreck due to water leakage over many years.  Fortunately, I 
am still reasonably healthy at 82 and have about 65 years experience on boats 
of all kinds.  I hope to keep sailing for another 10 years as long as someone 
will share their boat.  Sorry to rant on but not much on TV except the 
Republican Convention and I do not argue politics.
Frank


On Thursday, July 21, 2016 3:20 PM, schiller via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

  Frank,
 
 Where do you have your boat?  My previous boat (Southcoast 23) was in Lake 
Lewisville at Dallas Corinthian Yacht Club.  That was a long time ago (before 
Lake Ray Roberts).  We lived in the Colony.
 
 Neil Schiller
 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
 (C 35, Mark I)
 White Lake, Michigan
 WLYC
 
 On 7/21/2016 2:36 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List wrote:
  
  Thanks for the detailed response.  It sounds like a lot of work so I will 
wait until October when the temperature drops to a comfortable level.  Just now 
it is very hot in the DFW area.  I did a few minor repairs on the boat this 
morning and had to drink two bottles of water and one beer to get hydrated 
again.  BTW, I appreciate everyone's advice. 
  Frank 
 
  On Thursday, July 21, 2016 9:15 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
 
  Hi Frank, 
 
 I tried several things and my best result was take all oxidation with a high 
speed polisher with wool pads / 3M super duty, wet sand it with 1500-2000 grit 
paper and lots of water then buff with a high speed polisher with wool pads, 3M 
Finesse-it compound or Meguire's fine compound. And finish with 3 coats of 
Meguire's Carnauba wax. That's how the pros that charge you $1,200 bucks do it. 
It was a lot of work but the 25 year old boat looked better than new. 
 
 See picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/26529592414/
 
 On It's been 3 years and very little wax, just a light coat at the dock once a 
year or so and it still looks great. The key here is that the super shine is 
not artificially created by the wax, the gelcoat itself is just that smooth.  
Nothing sticks to it. Zebra stripes are a spritz of Starbrite cleaner and light 
wipe away, scuffs disappear with a touch of cleaner wax.
 
 You don't' have to spend a fortune on the polisher either. I got the one shown 
on the link for 49 bucks it has slow start and digital speed control which is 
more just a gadget, you can control the speed in a very fine way and it keeps 
constant RPM. I figured if it lasts long enough to do the boat it paid for 
itself compared to paying  somebody to do it. I'm sure it's still good for 
several boats.   If you can get someone to show you how to use it that's even 
better.  If I lived closer I'd let you borrow it. 
 
 
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Digital-Variable-Speed-Polisher-69696.html
 
 I kind of went overboard and bought a dual action polisher as well for the 
finishing buff and apply  / buff the wax. I thought it was finer for that 
mirror finish (Plus it's awesome to buff the ports):  
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
 
 
 Good Luck, 
 
 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, GA
 
 
 Jul 20, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
  My friend has a C with a red hull.  I would like to polish it with 
something to bring back the original color.  Many years ago I could buy a car 
polish that would do the job.  I assume that there are new products available 
today.  Any suggestions?
 
 Frank
 
  
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Re: Stus-List Dull red hull

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks for the detailed response.  It sounds like a lot of work so I will wait 
until October when the temperature drops to a comfortable level.  Just now it 
is very hot in the DFW area.  I did a few minor repairs on the boat this 
morning and had to drink two bottles of water and one beer to get hydrated 
again.  BTW, I appreciate everyone's advice.
Frank 

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 9:15 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 Hi Frank, 

I tried several things and my best result was takeall oxidation with a high 
speed polisher with wool pads / 3M super duty,wet sand it with 1500-2000 grit 
paper and lots of water then buff witha high speed polisher with wool pads, 3M 
Finesse-it compound or Meguire'sfine compound. And finish with 3 coats of 
Meguire's Carnauba wax. That'show the pros that charge you $1,200 bucks do it. 
It was a lot of work butthe 25 year old boat looked better than new. 

See picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/26529592414/

On It's been 3 years and very little wax, just a lightcoat at the dock once a 
year or so and it still looks great. The key hereis that the super shine is not 
artificially created by the wax, the gelcoatitself is just that smooth.  
Nothing sticks to it. Zebra stripes area spritz of Starbrite cleaner and light 
wipe away, scuffs disappear witha touch of cleaner wax.

You don't' have to spend a fortune on the polishereither. I got the one shown 
on the link for 49 bucks it has slow startand digital speed control which is 
more just a gadget, you can controlthe speed in a very fine way and it keeps 
constant RPM. I figured if itlasts long enough to do the boat it paid for 
itself compared to payingsomebody to do it. I'm sure it's still good for 
several boats.   Ifyou can get someone to show you how to use it that's even 
better.  IfI lived closer I'd let you borrow it. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Digital-Variable-Speed-Polisher-69696.html

I kind of went overboard and bought a dual actionpolisher as well for the 
finishing buff and apply  / buff the wax.I thought it was finer for that mirror 
finish (Plus it's awesome to buffthe ports):  
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html


Good Luck, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Jul 20, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Franklin Schenk via 
CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>wrote:

  My friend has a C with a red hull.  I would like topolish it with 
something to bring back the original color.  Many yearsago I could buy a car 
polish that would do the job.  I assume thatthere are new products available 
today.  Any suggestions?

Frank


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Stus-List Dull red hull

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

  My friend has a C with a red hull.  I would like to polish it with 
something to bring back the original color.  Many years ago I could buy a car 
polish that would do the job.  I assume that there are new products available 
today.  Any suggestions?
Frank ___

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Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Chuck,Now that you mention it the thing that bothers me the most is the noise 
of the engine running that fast while in the slip.  I do not know where he got 
that idea except that he worked for the railroad.  Of course the diesel engines 
in the locomotives are a little larger than the one in his boat. I doubt that 
they were run at a high RPM when sitting still in the yard.
Frank 

On Monday, June 20, 2016 2:35 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 #yiv5359827397 #yiv5359827397 -- _filtered #yiv5359827397 
{font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 
{panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 
{font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv5359827397 
#yiv5359827397 p.yiv5359827397MsoNormal, #yiv5359827397 
li.yiv5359827397MsoNormal, #yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5359827397 a:link, 
#yiv5359827397 span.yiv5359827397MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5359827397 a:visited, #yiv5359827397 
span.yiv5359827397MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5359827397 
p.yiv5359827397msonormal0, #yiv5359827397 li.yiv5359827397msonormal0, 
#yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397msonormal0 
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv5359827397 
span.yiv5359827397EmailStyle18 {color:windowtext;}#yiv5359827397 
.yiv5359827397MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv5359827397 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv5359827397 div.yiv5359827397WordSection1 
{}#yiv5359827397 Frank,If your friend is tied up in a slip and putting his 
engine in gear at ½ throttle for 5 or more minutes, he better put some chafe 
protection on oversized dock lines along with some really robust bumpers, 
otherwise he may be calling am insurance agent rather than a diesel mechanic.  
I also wouldn’t want the adjacent slip that has to listen to that engine 
churning away each time he comes down to the boat.  At diesel class at 
Annapolis School of Seamanship, the instructor said it was more important to 
run the diesel for a longer period of time (like ½ hour or more), even at lower 
RPMs to let the engine get up to full operating temps than to run it for 5-10 
minutes to get the boat out of the slip and the harbor and then shutting off 
the engine immediately when the sails go up.  My boat is on a mooring, so when 
I go out to the boat, I’ll start up the engine while I’m prepping the boat for 
sailing, which also gives the batteries a bit of a booster charge before 
heading out.  I have to wait for a draw bridge before I get to open water, so 
30 minutes of powerboating isn’t a big inconvenience, more like a necessity for 
me.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA    From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2016 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comun
Cc: Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine  I forgot to mention if it should 
be in gear.  850 to 900 is about the same as the normal idle speed on a car so 
that sounds about right.  On Monday, June 20, 2016 10:42 AM, Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:  The 3GM manual:  1) Warm up the engine 
for more than 5 minutes. Because lube oil does not reach all themoving parts as 
soon as the engine is started.Operate the engine at around 850-900 rpm for at 
least five minutes.  On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Franklin Schenk via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle speed. 
 When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half 
throttle.  None of the other sailors appear to do this.  Unfortunately many do 
not give the engine a chance to warm up at all.  I am open to suggestions and 
the reason for what you are doing.  Frankc/c 29
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301 541 8551  ___

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Re: Stus-List Warm up diesel engine

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I forgot to mention if it should be in gear.  850 to 900 is about the same as 
the normal idle speed on a car so that sounds about right. 

On Monday, June 20, 2016 10:42 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 The 3GM manual:
1) Warm up the engine for more than 5 minutes. Because lube oil does not reach 
all themoving parts as soon as the engine is started.Operate the engine at 
around 850-900 rpm for at least five minutes.
On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle 
speed.  When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half 
throttle.  None of the other sailors appear to do this.  Unfortunately many do 
not give the engine a chance to warm up at all.  I am open to suggestions and 
the reason for what you are doing.
Frankc/c 29
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Warm up diesel engine

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 A friend of mine insists that you cannot warm up a Yanmar engine at idle 
speed.  When we are still in the slip he puts it in gear and runs at about half 
throttle.  None of the other sailors appear to do this.  Unfortunately many do 
not give the engine a chance to warm up at all.  I am open to suggestions and 
the reason for what you are doing.
Frankc/c 29___

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Re: Stus-List Stay Shroud Tension

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I have used the following technique on many different boats without using a 
Loos gage. First, I check that the mast is straight athwartship (sideways) and 
that I have the desired rake which is different for each boat.  I tighten the 
turnbuckles on the fore and aft stays first.  I check the tension by pulling on 
them at about chest height.  The stays should move no more than about one inch. 
 The same applies to the upper shrouds.  On boats that have only one lower, I 
tighten them until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches.  On boats that have two 
lowers, I tighten the forward lowers until I can pull about 1 1/2 inches.  On 
the aft lowers I use about 2 inches.
The next step is to check the tension out under sail.  First I make sure that 
the mast is straight.  This will tell me if the lower shrouds are correct.  
There may be some slop on the downwind side depending on the wind speed.
Adjusting rake is another procedure depending on the weather helm of the boat.
Frank 

On Monday, May 9, 2016 1:22 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Chris,
I do not use a Loos gage on Beemer, 29mkll, to tune my rig. My process is as 
follows.
With all stays and shrouds lose, I tension the stays so I have approximately 9 
inches rake along the boom using a weight on the main halyard. Forestay first, 
then backstay to remove slop. I them tension the upper shrouds to hand tight 
and using the main halyard on the toe rails to align the masthead. I then add 
two turns to the turnbuckles. Check masthead alignment again. 
Once all aligned, I tighten the lowers hand tight. Sight the mast to ensure 
straight. Add two turns to each lower. Sight the mast. 
Time for on the water final tune. In roughly 10-12 knots of wind on beem reach, 
look at leeward shrouds for play. Removed a third of the play tightening the 
leeward turnbuckles. Count and remember the number of turns. Tack boat. Tighten 
leeward turnbuckle same Number of turns as previous tack. 
And I tack back and forth checking and making any final adjustments. You'll 
want the slop out of the leeward shrouds. 
Sounds like a long process but it really isn't. 
Is using s Loos gage quicker? Yes but I'm a cheap son of a gun. And even with a 
Loos gage you'll still occasional on water adjustments. 

Bob Caughran
Beemer, 29MKII, 309


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 9, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Chris via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a C 24 was wondering if you know how many pounds of tension are
> needed on all the lines that hold the mast in place?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
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>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
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> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Diesel question

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I agree on the black smoke due to poor combustion of the diesel fuel.  However, 
I doubt that the lubrication oil would enter the combustion chamber unless the 
rings are badly worn.  With only a few hundred hours on the engine they should 
be as good as new.  I once had an oil change and the guy put in twice the 
proper amount of oil.  I went on a trip the next day and drove about 800 miles 
before I checked the oil level.  There was no damage to the engine.
Frank 

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 10:29 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Tom,

One thing you might try is to  is to see what type of smoke you're 
getting.  Burning lubricating oil tends to be blue/white, which 
indicates your might have excess oil splashed up from the crankcase to 
the cylinder walls.  Some splash is normal, that's the way the rings are 
lubricated, but if the oil level is too high you could get burning.  If 
it's black smoke, it indicates poor combustion and unburned fuel, which 
can happen when a diesel is overloaded, or some other kind of fuel 
injection issue.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/1/2016 9:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
> Alera is my second C, but my first diesel.  My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4.
>
> I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like 
> once a season.  Last summer I learned the error of my ways.  But I over 
> compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine.
>
> Our engine only had 489 hours and was in excellent condition.  I just changed 
> the oil today, but before that we did a sail.  I notice at at cripuising RPS 
> she was smoking pretty bad.
>
> Is this from overfilling or you you all think I did some real damage?
>
> Minor error or major disaster...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>


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Re: Stus-List Diesel question

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Only time will tell.  If it starts using a lot of oil you know that there is 
damage to the engine.  I would check the oil each time you go out to see if it 
is burning oil.  If the oil level does not change you were just burning off the 
excess oil.  BTW, how much did you over fill on the oil?
Frank 

On Sunday, May 1, 2016 8:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Alera is my second C, but my first diesel.  My prior 35MK 1 had an Atomic4.

I have been checking oil on my Yanmar about as often as I did on the A4, like 
once a season.  Last summer I learned the error of my ways.  But I over 
compensated for the low oil level and overfilled the engine.

Our engine only had 489 hours and was in excellent condition.  I just changed 
the oil today, but before that we did a sail.  I notice at at cripuising RPS 
she was smoking pretty bad.

Is this from overfilling or you you all think I did some real damage?  

Minor error or major disaster...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

They are not the same.  I think that one is black and the other is grey.  :)  
BTW, I believe that Tohatsu also makes some of the small Mercury outboards. 

On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 8:46 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 If I'm not mistaken, I believe that Tohatsu  and Nissan Marine are the same 
motor.  I had a 18 hp 4 stroke Nissan on a 15 ft Seaeagle inflatable for 
several years and it started every time and ran great. I think you'll have no 
worries with the Tohatsu. Brian
'80 Landfall 38
NinaOn Apr 27, 2016 7:16 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Forward hatch rubber seal

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 It appears that the seal on the forward hatch on our C 29 is leaking.  I was 
thinking of replacing it with a 3/8 by 3/4 foam rubber seal.  I cut out a piece 
of the original seal and it looks as if it was round.  Any suggestions?
Frank___

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Re: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Fortunately, I have a lot of friends including a guy familiar with the West 
System.  He has done some extensive work on damaged boats.  I have tempted him 
with a few beers to look at the boat.  Although I have worked on boats as a 
hobby for about 65 years I never got involved in doing any repairs with epoxy.  
Right now I am picking as many brains as I can to gain a little knowledge.
Frank 

On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 2:17 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv4003843273 P {MARGIN-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN-TOP:0px;}We repaired a similar 
bulkhead issue on Calypso by cutting out the damaged section. The section was 
approx. 12" x 18".  We replaced the bulkhead section with similar grade plywood 
bonded in place with epoxy then adding glass cloth and epoxy over the seams.  
We replaced the failed tabbing with new. If you have a very small area 
immediately next to the tabbing a less invasive repair might be possible 
following your Plan A.  If you have a oscillating tool (Feinmaster etc.) 
working in confined spaces is easier.  The plunge cut blades allow for some 
"micro" surgery. Have you visited the West System's web site?  They have some 
excellent boat repair guides that highlight use of their epoxy products.  For a 
pour in place repair adding some chopped glass fibers or similar strength 
building filler will reduce the epoxy fill's chances of cracking if it flexes. 
MartinCalypso1971 C 43SeattleFrom: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
on behalf of Eugene Fodor via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eugene Fodor
Subject: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair

The base of the bulkhead on the C 29 Mk II I'm in escrow on has some soft 
wood and the tabbing has separated. This is the bulkhead just aft of the head 
that the table is mounted on. Does anyone have experience with repairing this 
and any recommendations. My plan is to sand/grind out the existing wood and 
build it up with epoxy and then redo the tabbing. Any recommendations or links 
on info for similiar repairs would be much appreciated.
Thank in advance,
Gene
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Re: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Using a longer chain plate was my first thought.  It may be less work but could 
be expensive.  Of course having the mast collapse would be even more expensive. 
Frank 

On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 2:24 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 #yiv3162760145 P {MARGIN-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN-TOP:0px;}Any time the words "chain 
plate bulkhead" and "severe decay" are used together I recommend replacing the 
bulkhead over a pour in place attempt to make it strong again. If it is not 
possible to remove and replace the wood around the chain plate I have seen a 
suitably sized stainless steel plate the spreads the chain plate loads out into 
solid wood used. MartinCalypso1971 C 43SeattleFrom: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 11:27 AM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Cc: Franklin Schenk
Subject: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads

I am helping a friend repair the chain plate bulkheads on a 29 MKII.  Water has 
leaked for many years down the chain plates into the bulkheads.  By taping on 
the bulkheads with a hammer I can tell that the port side has severe decay 
almost down to the two lower bolts on the chain plate.  I talked to a 
professional boat repair guy and he suggested that I pour epoxy into the top of 
the bulkhead.  I doubt that the epoxy will seep down very far.  My thoughts 
were to drill a few holes into the side of the bulkhead and pump in the epoxy.  
I am open to any suggestions.
Frank
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Stus-List Fw: Chain plate bulkheads

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 On Wednesday, April 13, 2016 1:27 PM, Franklin Schenk  
wrote:
 

  I am helping a friend repair the chain plate bulkheads on a 29 MKII.  Water 
has leaked for many years down the chain plates into the bulkheads.  By taping 
on the bulkheads with a hammer I can tell that the port side has severe decay 
almost down to the two lower bolts on the chain plate.  I talked to a 
professional boat repair guy and he suggested that I pour epoxy into the top of 
the bulkhead.  I doubt that the epoxy will seep down very far.  My thoughts 
were to drill a few holes into the side of the bulkhead and pump in the epoxy.  
I am open to any suggestions.
Frank

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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I was told that nothing would remove silicone but apparently there are 
several products that will do the job.  Now all I need is someone to come to 
North Texas and do it for me.  LOL
Frank Schenk 

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 6:38 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 
<http://www.amazon.com/3M-38984-Specialty-Adhesive-Remover/dp/B0054S5OOU/ref=pd_sbs_328_2?ie=UTF8=41Ax0877luL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=1B0ST8WZAVJX47BMSDKR>
 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 4/2/2016 10:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
  
 
#yiv147374 #yiv147374 -- _filtered #yiv147374 
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{panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv147374 
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#yiv147374 p.yiv147374MsoNormal, #yiv147374 
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{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv147374 a:link, 
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{}#yiv147374  3M makes a product that is specifically designed to remove 
silicone. Almost nothing else will do it. Unfortunately I’ve used up my supply 
and can’t recall the product name.    I learned about the stuff when rebuilding 
my A hatches, using Sika 295 as the adhesive. The SIKA won’t properly adhere 
to the hatch frame if there is any silicone residue (which there was, thanks to 
the PO). Perhaps the folks at Sika can tell you the name of the product.       
Rick Brass Washington, NC               From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 4:32 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Franklin Schenk mailto:fdsch...@flash.net
 Subject: Stus-List Remove silicone    I am trying to reseal the windows on 
a C 29.  The previous owner used Silicone and I would like to remove it and 
use the butyl tape.  I read that carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  
I am open to any suggestions.    The spacing on the machine screws also 
appear to be very large.  I was thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 
6 inches apart.    Frank 
  
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!