Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 12, 2023, at 2:28 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:







If you re-powered, or just have a good running engine, and did not thoroughly clean the tank and tank pick-up.   Your playing Russian roulette.   Especially in  rough weather when all that gunk gets stirred up. 

 


From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2023 9:42 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung ; Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness


 
I have a 1980 34 C located in Ketchikan, AK.  I only use it in the summer.  It has a new Yanmar 30 hp engine with 300 hrs.  Last year when returning from a long cruise at good speed and running well for many hours the engine suddenly
 slowed and died.  We were in a channel and began drifting towards the beach.  After a few minutes I restarted the motor and it ran fine.  I suspect a fuel problem but never found the cause.  I changed the engine filter but it did not look dirty.


 


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From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2023 10:24:48 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness 

 




Transitory engine issues can create drama quickly.  Back in 1992 we had just taken possession of a 1981 C 36 and departed Seattle's Lake Union heading out to our saltwater moorage at Shilshole
 Bay Marina. This trip takes us west through the Lake Washington Ship Canal, under the Fremont and Ballard Bridges (needed to open them), and through the Ballard locks. The Ship Canal is narrow enough that it is rare to sail through it. It was also calm that
 day.  The engine ran just fine through the transit to and into the locks (approx. first hour of ownership). It is common to shut down the engine while locking through as it can take enough time to expose a few people to the exhaust fumes.


 


So, the lock gates open, the C 36's Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel fires up and
aided by the outgoing current we departed the lock. Now it worth noting there is an opening single leafed Bascule train bridge with a clearance of +-48' at that moment's tide height a short distance west of the lock. Our 36's air draft was a little over
 50'.


Given how the gods watching over errant sailors enjoy a good laugh from time to time the engine chooses that moment to shut down. It shut down in that way that indicates a restart is unlikely.
 The train bridge is also down. The current coming out of the locks is relentlessly pushing us towards the closed bridge. I am suddenly very concerned for the top few feet of the mast.


 


I immediately sounded the signal asking for an opening. I asked the boat's new co-owner to make ready to anchor.  I hit the starter to see if the engine would restart. It sputtered and died again. 
 I sounded for an opening again. Nothing promising was happening up on the bow in way of an anchor being deployed. I attempted another restart this time with the reduction gear in reverse to make use of any rotation of the prop.  I get maybe 15 to 20 seconds
 of run time which slowed our progress slightly. The bridge operator made the horn signal indicating he was able to open the bridge, no trains were in route.  I headed for the side of the bridge that opens first and hit the starter again hoping for another
 few seconds of reverse.


 


Fortunately, the bridge opened just enough and our path close to the opening end of the bridge equaled just enough clearance the mast remained intact, and we avoided an embarrassing episode where
 we would have needed to "strike the burgee", obscure the boat's name, and wear bags over our heads to avoid being identified.


 


The cause of all this entertainment was debris in the fuel tank blocking the fuel pick-up.  We hired a fuel tank cleaner/polisher who cut a inspection port removed the debris, cleaned the tank,
 polished the fuel and voila, no more fuel pick up issues.


 


Fast forward to 1999 and I am motoring our recently acquired C 43 along the same route.  When the truck from Chicago arrived, we had her unloaded at a Lake Union boat yard.  After 3 months of
 repair and upgrade work the boat was ready to leave but the mast was still in the paint shed so we motored off without a mast.  Didn't need to open any bridges and was relaxed about restarting in the locks and heading west. (The anchoring gear was ready to
 go this time.)  When we got to our Shilshole Bay Marina slip I contacted the fuel cleaning guy and had the tank thoroughly cleaned and the fuel polished to be ready for my next trip with the mast up and its 70' air draft.


 


Martin DeYoung


Calypso


1971 C 43


Port Ludlow/Seattle


 


Greta


1956 Matthews 42


Port Ludlow





From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2023 12:47 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness 

 



So 

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I had similar problems with my C 44. While bringing her up the coast from LA to Portland she would periodically quit. We quickly diagnosed the problem as a clogged fuel pickup line. Initially, we had to blow out the line. Yummy. Then reprime the fuel system. In Eureka we were able to buy a basket ball pump to force the blockage back into the tank. Mo better. In Astoria we put a squeeze bulb in line before the filters. That made it easier to re-prime the system. The bulb also made for instant diagnosis of a fuel blockage by going flat due to a vacuum. In Portland we had the tanks cleaned. I still have a squeeze in the line. It makes it much easier to reprime if needed. Like when I ran out of fuel. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury Portland, Oregon Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 12, 2023, at 2:28 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:







If you re-powered, or just have a good running engine, and did not thoroughly clean the tank and tank pick-up.   Your playing Russian roulette.   Especially in  rough weather when all that gunk gets stirred up. 

 


From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 

Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2023 9:42 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung ; Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness


 
I have a 1980 34 C located in Ketchikan, AK.  I only use it in the summer.  It has a new Yanmar 30 hp engine with 300 hrs.  Last year when returning from a long cruise at good speed and running well for many hours the engine suddenly
 slowed and died.  We were in a channel and began drifting towards the beach.  After a few minutes I restarted the motor and it ran fine.  I suspect a fuel problem but never found the cause.  I changed the engine filter but it did not look dirty.


 


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From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2023 10:24:48 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness 

 




Transitory engine issues can create drama quickly.  Back in 1992 we had just taken possession of a 1981 C 36 and departed Seattle's Lake Union heading out to our saltwater moorage at Shilshole
 Bay Marina. This trip takes us west through the Lake Washington Ship Canal, under the Fremont and Ballard Bridges (needed to open them), and through the Ballard locks. The Ship Canal is narrow enough that it is rare to sail through it. It was also calm that
 day.  The engine ran just fine through the transit to and into the locks (approx. first hour of ownership). It is common to shut down the engine while locking through as it can take enough time to expose a few people to the exhaust fumes.


 


So, the lock gates open, the C 36's Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel fires up and
aided by the outgoing current we departed the lock. Now it worth noting there is an opening single leafed Bascule train bridge with a clearance of +-48' at that moment's tide height a short distance west of the lock. Our 36's air draft was a little over
 50'.


Given how the gods watching over errant sailors enjoy a good laugh from time to time the engine chooses that moment to shut down. It shut down in that way that indicates a restart is unlikely.
 The train bridge is also down. The current coming out of the locks is relentlessly pushing us towards the closed bridge. I am suddenly very concerned for the top few feet of the mast.


 


I immediately sounded the signal asking for an opening. I asked the boat's new co-owner to make ready to anchor.  I hit the starter to see if the engine would restart. It sputtered and died again. 
 I sounded for an opening again. Nothing promising was happening up on the bow in way of an anchor being deployed. I attempted another restart this time with the reduction gear in reverse to make use of any rotation of the prop.  I get maybe 15 to 20 seconds
 of run time which slowed our progress slightly. The bridge operator made the horn signal indicating he was able to open the bridge, no trains were in route.  I headed for the side of the bridge that opens first and hit the starter again hoping for another
 few seconds of reverse.


 


Fortunately, the bridge opened just enough and our path close to the opening end of the bridge equaled just enough clearance the mast remained intact, and we avoided an embarrassing episode where
 we would have needed to "strike the burgee", obscure the boat's name, and wear bags over our heads to avoid being identified.


 


The cause of all this entertainment was debris in the fuel tank blocking the fuel pick-up.  We hired a fuel tank cleaner/polisher who cut a inspection port removed the debris, cleaned the tank,
 polished the fuel and voila, no more fuel pick up issues.


 


Fast forward to 1999 and I am motoring our recently acquired C 43 along the same route.  When the truck from Chicago arrived, we had her unloaded at a Lake Union boat yard.  After 3 months of
 repair and upgrade work the boat was ready to leave but the mast was still in the paint 

Stus-List Re: CnC 44 mounting genset

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I removed the hot water tank aft of the double bed on the starboard side. Depending the generator size, there may be room. I put in a demand propane hot water system as a replacement. Fred Hazzard S/ V FuryCnC 44Portland, Or Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 4, 2022, at 7:16 PM, David NCW via CnC-List  wrote:Thx i need to run a dive compressor On Sun, Dec 4, 2022, 6:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:You may want to expand your list to the C Landfall 43. They had generators as a factory option, so they definitely have room.You also may want to think about if you need a genset at all. With modern charging, solar, and battery systems, the only real need for one now is air conditioning when on the hook.  Joe Della BarbaCoquina C 35 MK IKent Island MD USA   From: David NCW via CnC-List  Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2022 8:17 PMTo: Stus-List Cc: David NCW Subject: Stus-List CnC 44 mounting genset Hi my first post, I hope it is to the right place.  I really like the CnC 44.  Is on the short list of my retirement boat candidates.  Is there a good spot to mount a small diesel Genset?Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Dave
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Fred HazzardDon't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

The aluminum plate in the  cockpit of my 44 shows it was built in Rhode Island. 
It is the 7th one built. 
The HIN was removed when painted. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2022, at 6:19 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Dan,
> 
> Your boat was registered in the US as Rainbow with a USCG registration number 
> of  1024202. on Dec 1994 thru Dec 2001.
> 
> Interesting that there is another C 44 that has HIN that indicates it is 
> also Hull #1 (HIN ZCC44001D485).  Indigo, a Canadian vessel was in US waters 
> (Southwest Harbor, ME) in June 2019.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk-2
> Bristol, RI
> 
> 
> On 6/25/2022 7:22 PM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi Don,
>> 
>> It was me who started this converstaion on looking up the manufacturing 
>> location.
>> Trying to find out if my 1986 C was made in Canada or the US.
>> My hull number is:
>> ZCC44001H586
>> 
>> When I look it up online it tells me the boat was made in Aug. 1985 but not 
>> where it was made.
>> 
>> Thanks so much!
>> Dan
>> 
>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2022, 2:14 PM Don Kern via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>> Ron,
>>> 
>>> I have been collecting data on the C for quite a few years and have run 
>>> into the problem of what Portsmouth RI actually built due to the apparent 
>>> use of both ZCC and CCY for Hull No.  The 38s are one of the problems with 
>>> the Landfalls and Mk-2s.  I originally was under the impression that the LF 
>>> 38s were built in Portsmouth, RI with HIN ZCC and Mk-2s only in Canada (HIN 
>>> - CCY), but have run into exceptions.  
>>> 
>>> Can you you provide me with a full hull number and where your C 38 Mk-2 
>>> was built?
>>> 
>>> Don Kern
>>> Fireball, C Mk-2
>>> Bristol, RI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 6/25/2022 12:18 PM, RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:
 Hi Dan, not sure if this helps but..some time ago after the factory 
 closed,  South Shore Yachts in Toronto collected most of the boat files 
 including something called a "build file".
 This file was specific to a single boat and was filed by the hull number.
 They made these files available to owners for $35-50.
 I have the one for my 38MKIIC and it is about 50 sheets long and details 
 the build including drawings and, in my case, a 2 year later rework of the 
 floor because of "flexing"?
 I think Rob Maclachlan finally transferred the remaining documents to the 
 Marine Museum (I'm not sure of the exact name, but I do know that some 
 listers have had positive corresoondence with them).
 Hopefully, someone here can fill in the missing info to contact them.
 Good luck
 Ron C.
 Impromptu 
 C 38MKII, #125, '77
 
 On Jun 25, 2022 6:47 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
 Hi all,
 Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any records 
 showing if their boats were built in Ontario or at the factory in Rhode 
 Island? Any kind of builders plaque, builders certificate, an original 
 receipt or even contact info for someone who has archives from when the 
 factories closed down? (I know that's a long shot)
 
 Thanks so much!
 
 Dan Cormier
 C Breakaweigh
 Halifax NS / Florida
 
 
 

Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

1986 C 44 hull nbrs 7 and 8 are here in Portland. Both were originally 
delivered to Seattle.  No idea as to country of origin. 
Fred Hazzard 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2022, at 3:48 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any records showing 
> if their boats were built in Ontario or at the factory in Rhode Island? Any 
> kind of builders plaque, builders certificate, an original receipt or even 
> contact info for someone who has archives from when the factories closed 
> down? (I know that's a long shot)
> 
> Thanks so much!
> 
> Dan Cormier
> C Breakaweigh
> Halifax NS / Florida
> 
> 

Stus-List Painting hull

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Do any of you listers have experience rolling and tipping your boat with 
Epifanes 2 part poly-urethane? 
I would appreciate any comments about the process and results.   
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Varnish

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

15 years ago I revarnished the interior with an exterior satin poly urethane. I 
did the trim with gloss. It has held up remarkably well. 
A key a good job is prep. Sand and wipe down well. 
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
 C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 18, 2022, at 11:36 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Try Pettit Sea Gold.  Requires a sealer but the product itself is water based 
> and dries in about 40 minutes.  You could get the job done in one day.
>  
> Barry McKee
> C 29 Mk I “Discovery II”
>  
> From: Matthew via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: 18-Jun-22 2:10 PM
> To: 'Stus-List'
> Cc: Matthew
> Subject: Stus-List Varnish
>  
> Listers:
>  
> I know this topic has been covered before, so please forgive 
> my ignorance.  Although I don’t ordinarily varnish my interior teak ply, I 
> plan to do so around the companionway to protect against water.  I’ll likely 
> use a satin finish.  What type/brand of varnish would you recommend?
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> Matt

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

How can I tell the maker of the hatch’s used on my 1986 C 44?
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury
Portland Or. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 17, 2022, at 4:17 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The gaskets that A used are EPDM foam cord.   This can be purchased in 3ft, 
> 10ft, or 100ft lengths from McMaster-Carr at “non-marine” prices.  The 
> Landfall 38 hatches use 3/8” diameter foam cord  for the small head/galley 
> and 1/2” diameter cord for the larger A hatches.  For the small hatches 
> which were repaired first,  I used the A recommended Silaprene Adhesive to 
> glue in the gaskets.When I later replaced the gaskets for the larger A 
> hatches, I used Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive.   Since I  was using the Dow 
> 795 for reseating a new hatch lens, I saved on gasket adhesive costs.   The 
> Dow 795 worked just as good if not better than the Silaprene Adhesive. I 
> highly recommend Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive over the Silaprene.  One pay 
> a premium for Silaprene as it is not common and very limited in availability 
> whereas a 10oz cartridge of Dow 795 cost $12 at McMaster-Carr. 
> 
> Below are links to McMaster-Carr for the EPDM foam cord and Dow 795 and 2 
> links to my blog write-up for the hatch work.
> 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/gaskets/foam/ultra-weather-resistant-epdm-foam-cords/
> 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/dow-795/manufacturer~dow-corning/manufacturer-model-number~795/
> 
> 
> Write-up for replacing larger A hatch lens and gasket
>   
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/replace-atkins-hoye-hatch-lens.html
> 
> 
> Write-up for replacing the smaller A hatch lens and gasket
>   https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HatchWork
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Feb 16, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I got replacement gaskets from Hammerhead Nautical Systems...the owner used 
>> to work for A even sent me a tube a adhesive to install them at no 
>> cost. 
>> 
>> About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca)
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> On 2022-02-13 9:35 p.m., RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Andrew, give Hatchmasters in Norwalk,  CT. a call.
>>> It's been a few years but they have the parts and rebuilt my A hatch 
>>> nicely. 
>>> Ron C.
>>> Impromptu
>>> 38MKII, '77
>>> 
>> 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
> 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

That all sounds good except the blooper.  
My recollection of using the blooper on my one tonner  was, we went a quarter 
knot faster when we put it up and quarter knot faster when we took it down. The 
best thing about it was that it kept the crew ingaged trying to keep it full 
and out of the water. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland Or 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 11, 2021, at 3:43 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Martin, do I remember correctly; wasn't your boat originally Esta Es from 
> Lake Michigan?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, November 30, 2021, 01:51:01 AM CST, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I would go back to a C 39, tall rig, deep rudder and the light weight 
> Atomic 4 aux engine. Prep it to be fully optimized for its PNW PHRF rating 
> but include a “penalty pole” and blooper for those long DDW legs. I would 
> also want the upgraded winch package that included the Barient titanium drum 
> 3 speed primary winches.
> 
> Back in the late 70’s the 39s did well in the typical light air races that 
> were long enough to experience several changes of current that could keep a 
> crew of 6 out for 24 to 36 hours in relative comfort. If the wind came up it 
> could still go upwind without the whole neighborhood camped out on the rail.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso 
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 33-2 Used Spinnaker wanted

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Try Second Wind Sails. They have a lot of used sails. 
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 14, 2021, at 6:35 AM, Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 9:06 AM Scott Baker via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi all! We’ve recently acquired a 33-2 and we’d like to train the family to 
>> race. We need a 3/4 Oz. Chute. Anyone have a used one to sell that has some 
>> life left in it?
>> -Scott Baker
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Used spinnaker

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Yesterday my 3/4 oz. chute exploded in a big wind. 
Now I am looking for a used replacement. Lead time to get a new one more than 6 
months. 
So,if there are any C 44 listers out there with a chute to sell, I am 
interested. 
Fred Hazzard 
C 44
S/V Fury 
Portland Or 
Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Intermittent stalling

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Tom, could be crud in the tank blocking the pick up line to the filter.
Should be rubber line from tank to filter. 
Disconnect line at filter and blow into it. Yumm!
Fred Hazzard 
SV Fury 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 3, 2021, at 8:35 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are off on a two week cruise.  Second day running the engine starts to 
> falter, then stall. I check the Racor, no water.  I did replace the fuel pump 
> last year after we ran out of fuel w the fuel tank half full.  But it seemed 
> to be fine.
> 
> She started and we stopped in a Edmonds to top off the tank, but it only took 
> 7 g.
> 
> She then ran pretty solid for the next 2 hours with only a few issues.
> 
> I have  not changed the fuel filters for about 150 hours over two years.
> 
> I am thinking that either the filters need replacing or the fuel pump just 
> does not lift the fuel enough.
> 
> Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WAec
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Years ago a small piece of wood came up thru the shaft log into the bellows and 
wedged itself between the stainless and graphite rings. The boat sank 
overnight. 
The moral of this story is that you should periodically check the pressure of 
the bellows. 
My stainless ring had slipped. 

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury 
C 44

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 13, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Jeff,
>  
> As you mentioned earlier, this topic shows up every so often.
>  
> As a PSS user, I am obviously biased.
>  
> The stuck graphite face was an issue in older designs (the unvented type). 
> The Volvo version of the dripless seal still requires burping.
>  
> I can imagine that if I were to sail around the world, I might prefer the 
> traditional stuffing box (the maintenance is easier and the spare parts can 
> be fabricated by a skilled blacksmith ()), but if you sail in the area where 
> spare parts are generally available, the dripless solution is completely 
> reliable.
>  
> I am happy with my dry bilge.
>  
> Marek
>  
>  
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
>  
>  
> From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 9:25 AM
> To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
> Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box
>  
> Let's exclude power boats -- an entirely different environment and demand on 
> the hardware.
> Jeff L.
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Auto pilot???

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am in need of someone to repair the brain of my st 6000 autopilot. 
Any suggestions?

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2021, at 8:38 AM, Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Agree.  Went with the hydraulic ram on my 38 and it is excellent and hasn’t 
> been overpowered yet in any conditions 
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:35 AM Don Marlin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My 40 had a wheel pilot when I bought it. (ST4000+ and the wheel ring)
>> It was only useful for motoring in calm seas.
>> The mechanism would get overpowered in anything else and then it would just 
>> quit trying.
>> I viewed it as a safety item and so I have since upgraded to a hydraulic ram 
>> on the quadrant and it works much better.
>> 
>> I left the electronics alone (ST4000+) so that will need to be upgraded when 
>> the budget allows.
>> For now it is reliable in the sense the mechanics don't get overpowered.
>> 
>> If you are starting from scratch I would find a way to install a below decks 
>> AP.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:11 AM Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I am looking for suggestions on an auto pilot for our 40-2. I don't think 
>>> the Raymarine wheel pilot will work good enough. Anybody got suggestions on 
>>> either s wheel mount or a quadrant mount. What do you use???  Also I would 
>>> like to be able to connect to my B Zues3 down the line.  Thanks for any 
>>> input. 
>>> Ted
>>> Ten-Ten
>>> Punta Gorda,Fl. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: White vinegar

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Wow.  I am glad I asked. 

Thanks 
Fred

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2021, at 12:26 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Cleaning. Flushing your heat exchanger?  Mayber
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 12:01 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> As senior citizen I suffer from the dreaded malady 
>> CRS. 
>> Yesterday while visiting Fury I found a gallon of white vinegar. 
>> Hopefully, one of you can remind me what is for. 
>> Thanks
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> SV Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland, Or 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List White vinegar

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

As senior citizen I suffer from the dreaded malady 
CRS. 
Yesterday while visiting Fury I found a gallon of white vinegar. 
Hopefully, one of you can remind me what is for. 
Thanks
Fred Hazzard 
SV Fury
C 44
Portland, Or 

Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remote Vhf/Stereo Speakers

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I mounted a second vhf at the helm. I bought a Standard Horizon that has a AIS 
that I linked to my navigation system.  I use a common antenna for both radios. 
If you do so you will need a automatic switch to prevent you from blasting 25 
watts into the other VHF. 
It’s very convenient to have a fully functioning VHF at the helm. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury
C
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2021, at 6:25 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Okay, it's morning, and I've calmed down. So, either hook up your speakers, 
> get a new portable, or install a ram, whatever. It's all good. 
> But I still like the RAM
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
>> On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 8:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> To plagiarize the Vendee Globe entrant, Yes We CAM! 
>> JUST GET THE RAM!
>> 
>> I am trying to filter myself, after having several IPA's, but may have a 
>> hard time.
>> 
>> If you are counting on having a working portable next to you, when you need 
>> it most, it's not going to happen. The RAM is only a little over a hundred 
>> bucks, and if your current radio doesn't support that, then you need to 
>> upgrade. $250 will do it.  In 2000, I went on a delivery with a dockmate to 
>> Florida from Lake Erie, and he was really good on the radio (he was also a 
>> pilot) and when he was trying to tell a little blowboater ahead of us on the 
>> Canal that he was going to be passing on his left, 'Those damn sailboats 
>> never respond to any VHS calls.  I told him he probably didn't have anything 
>> in his cockpit. He looked a little incredulous, and I took note. Then a 
>> little later In Atlantic City, I was talking to a couple on a Swan I helped 
>> dock, and on my tour they showed me their new Standard Horizon RAM mic, and 
>> extolled all its virtues. I bought one within a month or returning home, and 
>> have gone through a few others since. One emergency will pay for it one 
>> hundredfold. 
>> 
>> The only thing you will regret is the hour or so trying to string the cable 
>> from the cockpit to the Nav Station, but after that you will be a happy 
>> camper.
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> Last season, my handheld VHF failed, and I find the nav station mounted 
>> radio is hard to hear from the helm unless it is very loud which doesn’t 
>> help kiddos napping on board.  
>> 
>> I have looked at upgrading the base station and adding a Ram mic, but that 
>> is a huge expense for something I don’t use all that much. A new handheld is 
>> also expensive and I find it a bit of a pain to always have to charge it. 
>> 
>> Seeing as we would like to add cockpit speakers to our stereo, I was 
>> thinking i could save a bunch of money and wire the speakers to both the VHF 
>> and the stereo and have a SPDT (on-off-on) switch on the circuit to choose 
>> between vhf to cockpit, stereo to cockpit, or cockpit speakers off. I have 0 
>> experience wiring speakers, so I’m wondering if this is something that could 
>> work?
>> 
>> Either way I want cockpit stereo speakers so I figure it’s worth a try to 
>> add the vhf since it won’t take much work or expense. The speakers do exceed 
>> the recommended minimum wattage and match the recommended impedance for an 
>> external speaker from the vhf manual. Any advice or ideas would be 
>> appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Cam 
>> C 38 mkII Checkmate
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: More Google Problems

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I’ve found that a lot more messages land in my Gmail in box if I move a few 
from my junk mail to in mail.
Maybe their algorithm re-thinks what’s good mail. 

I believe I created the problem when I accidentally hit junk mail instead of 
trash with several CNC list emails. 
Suddenly virtually all list mail went to junk. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/ V Fury
C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2021, at 9:19 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Google has initiated some nonsense spam filters that has affected a lot of 
> members.  According to our provider, they are running all industry standards 
> for emails.  But Google does not agree and you have to fight through the 
> settings to stop our list emails from going to your spam folder.
>  
> If your are still experiencing Gmail problems – check out this site:  
> https://www.whitelist.guide/gmail/
> 
> Then when you get it fixed, Google has sent out an update that crashes apps 
> on your Android Phone.  But they claim to have a fix but you have to install 
> it.
> 
> Have a look at the latest:  
> https://www.ctvnews.ca/sci-tech/google-fixes-issue-causing-android-apps-to-crash-1.5358462
> 
> Just another day in cyberspace
> 
> Stay safe & healthy
> 
> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Smelly bilge water

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Using an oil absorbing pad under engine and detergent in the bilge helped with 
smells, but the best thing was running a dehumidifier. It lowered the humidity 
to 55 percent and improved the smell dramatically. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2021, at 9:59 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Presently on the hard, the mast is out and I wetvac the bilge dry in the fall 
> and cover w a tarp.  The bilge stays bone dry.
>  
> When I keep her in the water through winter, I wetvac the bilge every six 
> weeks or so and leave some panels open to ventilate.  Solar fans move the air 
> enough to keep odors down.
>  
> In the past I used biodegradable Tide to clean the bilge.  Pour a capful in 
> once in a while and let the rocking of the boat mix it around.
>  
> Chuck S 
>  
>> On 03/14/2021 12:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>  
>>  
>> I was at the boat yesterday and pumped out the water that had accumulated in 
>> the bilge due to rain over the winter.  I used the hand pump into a bucket 
>> and noticed that the water was really smelly.  I have an oil treating pad in 
>> there (Clean Waters Microbial Bilge pad) but that was from last spring so 
>> likely beyond its usable lifetime. I am wondering if the smell is likely 
>> from bacteria/algae growing on some oil in the bilge water.  I have not been 
>> putting a cleaner/detergent in the bilge because I was afraid it would 
>> interfere with the action of the Bilge pad.  I probably should have put some 
>> Simple Green in the bilge in the Fall when the boat was moved to the hard.  
>> What do others do to prevent this kind of odor?   Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Broken rod rigging attachment for babystay deck at keel - 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Ninety nine percent of the time my baby stay is fastened with a snap shackle to 
the mast collar at the base of the mast. 
When I go offshore I attach it to the slide fitting to prevent pumping or mast 
inversion. 
To make it easier to tack and protect the sail I have installed  a 20 foot 
section of half inch white pvc pipe on the baby stay. The pvc pipe stays on the 
baby stay year around. It protects the mast from the stay banging against the 
mast when the stay is not in use. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2021, at 6:35 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Our 34 halyards are attached to the casting on the deck surrounding the mast. 
>  Inside, the casting has two stainless tangs that attach to the mast which 
> serves two purposes:   1) offset the upward pull of the halyards and 2) 
> prevent the deck from springing upward as the mast shrouds are tightened and 
> try to decrease the beam of the boat.
>  
> As for the rod holding the baby stay I seem to recall a prior similar issue 
> on this list.  The fitting was similar to a lag bolt and screwed into the 
> fiberglass and into the keel.  Remember the only thing preventing the mast 
> from inverting (which is a disaster) or pumping (which impacts sail shape)  
> is the baby stay.  Some do not use it but I believe it to be an essential 
> part of the mast structure taking the place of forward and aft lower shrouds. 
>  Just look up your mast without a baby stay when going to windward in any 
> sort of seaway.
>  
> My 2 cents American
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Repair job

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

David, I had similar problem. As it was not structural I cut out the bad wood 
and glued in a piece of ordinary plywood. I then re-veneered with teak. You can 
buy very thin paper backed teak veneer at specialty hardwood suppliers. 

Fred Hazzard 
C 44
S/V Fury
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 10, 2021, at 11:53 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the ideas. I am not so concerned about the leak (if there 
> still is one).  I should be able to see if water is coming in there using a 
> hose in the spring.  My concern is more how and whether to fix the damage.  
> It is certainly cosmetic, not structural, so not a big worry, and it took me 
> quite a while to even notice it.  I don’t see any obvious was of getting to 
> the back of that panel and I don’t know how to repair it from the front.  I 
> do have an oscillating tool that I could use to cut out the damaged area.  
> Then what?  My woodworking skills are not great.  Better to cover it with a 
> piece of wood (is that plywood or teak?) or try to fill the hole in some way 
> even though I can’t get to the back?  What would make you not cringe if you 
> saw that on someone’s boat?  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> ayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Another benefit to the squeeze bulb is that if the tank pick up line gets
plugged with gunk, the bulb will collapse under the vacuum created.
By blowing into the line you can usually clear the blockage. Yum!

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:24 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If ya got that kind of gunk the only real way to get rid of of it is to
> remove it and clean it proper.  I took boiling vinegar and rinse and shook
> it twice Then rinsed and dried.  No gunk
>
> Polishing is a waste of money (or so I read).
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
> Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 6, 2020 4:47:08 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Josh Muckley via
> CnC-List ; C List 
> *Cc:* ted_reli...@yahoo.com 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?
>
> I  found the easiest way to fill the racor ,and prime the injectors if
> needed, is a hand squeeze primer bulb. I put it in the fuel line before the
> filter. I can change the filter and just fill it back up bleeding the air
> out on top.
> Ted
> SV Ten-Ten
> '81 40
> Punta Gorda ,Fl.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 11:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
> Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 6, 2020 4:47:08 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Josh Muckley via
> CnC-List ; C List 
> *Cc:* ted_reli...@yahoo.com 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?
>
> I  found the easiest way to fill the racor ,and prime the injectors if
> needed, is a hand squeeze primer bulb. I put it in the fuel line before the
> filter. I can change the filter and just fill it back up bleeding the air
> out on top.
> Ted
> SV Ten-Ten
> '81 40
> Punta Gorda ,Fl.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 11:44, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I
have had a leak where the
mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants
with no success.
Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I
went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.

There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck.
I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain
flexible.

I welcome your ideas.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 69

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I had C 34 hull nbr. 28.  I found that in true winds above 12 kts we
experienced a lot of leeway.
I was told by C that the original design called for 6’6” of draft but the
marketing people had it cut back to 5’10”.
Rob Ball was kind enough to provide scale drawings for the shoe that we
added. Eight inches and 400 lbs.
Our upwind performance improved dramatically in moderate to heavy winds.
Our light air performance was slightly slower.
I recall our phrf rating was lowered 3 seconds a mile.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 5:21 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It was my observation that the C 34 was a fairly tender boat and
> therefore could benefit from more weight on the keel. The Dellenbaugh
> stability diagram tends to agree with my observation. It is a fairly tender
> boat and those i know of with added keel shoes really benefitted going to
> weather in winds above 15 kts apparent.
>
> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 7:59 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The 33 was the first design I did from a blank sheet at a time when our
>> reputation on the race course was slipping, so it was pretty stressful.
>> Turned out the 33 was a step up and we got our reputation back.  The 34 was
>> to replace it with the same design BUT have standing headroom forward. It
>> is very similar to the 33 below the waterline, but more freeboard and cabin
>> to get more room.  I didn’t really hear that it was tender, but I don’t
>> always get enough feedback . . . . .
>> Rob Ball.   C 34
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Good strategy to get something before paying for a survey.  Then when
surveys come back you be able to negotiate further.

Fred Hazzard

On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 4:20 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While I agree with,  and respect Josh, having done the steering work on
> our 37/40+ with similar but not as bad a problem, plan on a minimum of 3
> days work to pull & replace the idler plate.  Given your comments about the
> condition, you need to plan on a bunch of other issues you can't see as of
> now.  Get a GOOD surveyor, but weigh the cost of the survey compared to
> your price point in both time and effort to get it into the condition
> you'll want and need. You might even run the issues past the owner now,
> saying "Realistically, x, y, and z need repair, and that alone totals
> $xx,xxx.  Will you be willing to take that and more off to get it back to a
> boat worth $yy,yyy?  If not, walk away before even getting the survey.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/25/20 2:20 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression
>
> The original carbon steel idler is no longer available from edson.  You'd
> have to make modifications to the deck in order to replace.  I thought I
> remembered the idler being ~$400.  Maybe I'm mistaken.  The replacement
> cables are ~$100.  The work isn't that hard but it is a little bit of a
> PITA.
>
> The window delamination would not seriously concern me.
>
> The engine water flow shouldn't be too hard to overcome.  Sometimes an old
> impeller just takes on a set and fails to prime itself.
>
> The sails are gonna set you back ~$3500 to $5000 each to replace.
>
> Upholstery is gonna be expensive.  $5k to $10k
>
> If it's the boat you want and you can get a discount then I really haven't
> heard too much that would discourage me.  I'm a risk taker and a
> DIYerso YMMV.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 17:52 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> List,
>> We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I could use your input on two
>> items that were most concerning. The boat was much more of a project boat
>> than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out for a sail, but it's
>> not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious issues are below
>> and photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6
>>
>>1. *Heavy Rusting at base of the steering pedestal*: When I first got
>>on board and noticed the steering was quite stiff and a bit 'grinding.' I
>>thought the steering column lock was on. However, since the idler pulleys
>>and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy to see a pile of
>>large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the pedestal where the
>>cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the quadrant cover
>>that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were also not even
>>seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the gel coat. I
>>have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler plate.
>>The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This
>>appears to be about $700 or so in materials for cables and a new idle
>>plates and pulleys. Question is, how difficult is this to address? I will
>>say, that the fact that the steering cable was not even on the quadrant or
>>pulleys gave me pause about the truthfulness of the owner. We had
>>corresponded and talked about going out for a test sail and we drove quite
>>a bit to go see the boat. If the cables were off my quadrant I am pretty
>>darn sure I would notice. There was no way to turn the rudder so how would
>>a test sail have been possible?
>>2. *Core delamination at port light: *Another item that gave me pause
>>was a split/de-laminated core at the forward portion of the fixed port
>>light. It felt dry, but I could make it compress/decompress with very
>>little effort. I was told it was due to the boat being lifted in the wrong
>>area by the yard. I suppose this could have been true given that the area
>>was about 3-4 aft of the forward bulkhead, where the sling should have
>>been. (Again, as an owner, I clearly flag on the lifelines where the
>>bulkheads are for the lift operator given that my C owner's manual on my
>>Rob Ball 30-2 instructs that the slings should be placed there.) So, what
>>is your take on this damage? Is it not a big deal or sign of potentially
>>larger demons?
>>
>> Other items:
>>
>>- No cooling water when the engine started and ran. The strainer was
>>cleared and the through hull was open so my assumption is that the vanes 
>> on
>>the impeller are either loose inside the 

Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Kevin, I can’t imagine what the bottom is like if it is as neglected as
much as the top side is.
Here’s where a tough inspector will save you either a heartache and or a
boatload of money.

Good luck.

Fred Hazzard

On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 12:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The original carbon steel idler is no longer available from edson.  You'd
> have to make modifications to the deck in order to replace.  I thought I
> remembered the idler being ~$400.  Maybe I'm mistaken.  The replacement
> cables are ~$100.  The work isn't that hard but it is a little bit of a
> PITA.
>
> The window delamination would not seriously concern me.
>
> The engine water flow shouldn't be too hard to overcome.  Sometimes an old
> impeller just takes on a set and fails to prime itself.
>
> The sails are gonna set you back ~$3500 to $5000 each to replace.
>
> Upholstery is gonna be expensive.  $5k to $10k
>
> If it's the boat you want and you can get a discount then I really haven't
> heard too much that would discourage me.  I'm a risk taker and a
> DIYerso YMMV.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 17:52 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> List,
>> We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I could use your input on two
>> items that were most concerning. The boat was much more of a project boat
>> than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out for a sail, but it's
>> not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious issues are below
>> and photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6
>>
>>1. *Heavy Rusting at base of the steering pedestal*: When I first got
>>on board and noticed the steering was quite stiff and a bit 'grinding.' I
>>thought the steering column lock was on. However, since the idler pulleys
>>and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy to see a pile of
>>large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the pedestal where the
>>cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the quadrant cover
>>that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were also not even
>>seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the gel coat. I
>>have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler plate.
>>The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This
>>appears to be about $700 or so in materials for cables and a new idle
>>plates and pulleys. Question is, how difficult is this to address? I will
>>say, that the fact that the steering cable was not even on the quadrant or
>>pulleys gave me pause about the truthfulness of the owner. We had
>>corresponded and talked about going out for a test sail and we drove quite
>>a bit to go see the boat. If the cables were off my quadrant I am pretty
>>darn sure I would notice. There was no way to turn the rudder so how would
>>a test sail have been possible?
>>2. *Core delamination at port light: *Another item that gave me pause
>>was a split/de-laminated core at the forward portion of the fixed port
>>light. It felt dry, but I could make it compress/decompress with very
>>little effort. I was told it was due to the boat being lifted in the wrong
>>area by the yard. I suppose this could have been true given that the area
>>was about 3-4 aft of the forward bulkhead, where the sling should have
>>been. (Again, as an owner, I clearly flag on the lifelines where the
>>bulkheads are for the lift operator given that my C owner's manual on my
>>Rob Ball 30-2 instructs that the slings should be placed there.) So, what
>>is your take on this damage? Is it not a big deal or sign of potentially
>>larger demons?
>>
>> Other items:
>>
>>- No cooling water when the engine started and ran. The strainer was
>>cleared and the through hull was open so my assumption is that the vanes 
>> on
>>the impeller are either loose inside the water pump or have already
>>migrated into the heat exchanger. I have not had to fix this issue before.
>>Major PITA? Expensive?
>>- Leaks. There were a number of leaks in the cabin top where the tell
>>tale drip of rotten core was showing. I am willing to understand a certain
>>amount of this in a 30 y.o. boat, but there may be too much.
>>- Upholstery was shot. The video showed some ok looking upholstery,
>>but it was much worse in real life. It was worn and stained in a number of
>>places and I wondered if the foam was salvagable. What do you think a
>>re-uphosltery job would cost on a 34+?
>>- Original Mainsail - A 30 y.o. mainsail is not going to flatten or
>>point well. When I took the sail cover off there was a small football 
>> sized
>>bees nest attached to the folds in the mainsail. About how much for a new
>>mainsail on a 34+ with full battens and 3 reefs?
>>- 

Re: Stus-List Moisture Meter recommendation from Amazon or HD?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Kevin, you might check at Harbor Freight.

Fred Hazzard

On Wed, Feb 19, 2020 at 5:28 AM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> I am looking for a reasonably priced and quality moisture meter so I can
> poke around my boat and others. Does anyone have a recommendation? I do not
> need anything too professional, but just accurate enough for DIY level.
> Thank you!
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am surprised that all the 30’s are rated the same given the dramatic
differences in conditions they race in. San Francisco verses San Diego for
example.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 7:08 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m guessing most of the reviews are for boats with big changes in
> performance. PHRF Chesapeake has done some, but not often. Looking around
> the country, the 30-1, from hull number 1 (on the Chesapeake) to hull
> numbers over 600 seem to have the same 174 handicap (mine is number 593 and
> is 174 also). There may be exceptions, but I would doubt that Randy’s boat
> (assuming it has not been modified in major ways) would prompt a review.
> I’m not sure what one would do to a 30-1 to increase performance unless you
> cut a bunch of weight off the keel – and that would decrease it’s
> performance in heavy weather. At the Chesapeake rendezvous a couple months
> ago, I got to look at Rick’s number 1 and it is very similar to my 593,
> only differing is the area of chainplate attachments and some cabinet
> doors.
>
>
>
> Gary Nylander
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2019 5:40 PM
> *To:* CnC discussion list CnC 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments
>
>
>
> I am pretty sure that no review of ratings has been done at my club in at
> least 10 years.  Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Dec 12, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Well Lee, since you bring up PHRF reviews, let me ask you listers, how
> often do your clubs or RSAs conduct rating reviews and adjustments?
>
>
>
> The introduction in “the book” (
> https://www.ussailing.org/competition/offshore/phrf/phrf-handicaps/) says
> under heading "Considerations when using this listing to determine a
> handicap by averaging fleet data” that "After the initial handicap is
> chosen and the boat is raced, an empirical analysis of performance may
> permit a more refined estimate of its speed potential.”  And a review of
> https://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/USPHRF-Fleets-1.pdf shows
> that most clubs derive handicaps from “the book,” then review and adjust
> based on local experience.
>
>
>
> So, how many of y’all do that?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> On Dec 12, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Dear Sir,
>
>
>
> RE:  Randy Stafford  S/V Grenadin   C 30 MK I #79  LISTED as Hull #7
>
>
>
> I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of your boat.  With
> over 70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear now, why your boat is so fast, and
> only right that your rating reflect the changes you failed to document.  I
> expect the board will want to question you very carefully about the
> additional changes to your boat over and above the documented 1972 norms.
> I have suggested that the penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF
> number, but the monetary fine should reflect the price of the current boat
> you have chosen to race.  Perhaps if you raced a newer more expensive boat,
> you would be disinclined to perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which
> is depressing both the local fleet and the attendance of future sailors to
> the sport.  You should hear from the PHRF board by the end of the month.
>
>
>
> Regretfully, Lee
>
> Yea, cold and wet in Seattle
>
>
>
> On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Listers-
>
>
>
> When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years ago, I came to the
> conclusion she was hull number 7 laid up in September 1972, I think based
> on this old post:
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html
> .
>
>
>
> Meanwhile a discussion arose recently in the Facebook C Owners Group
> where a guy asked how to decode HIN 30002672.  I emailed Rob Ball hoping
> for clarification, and Rob referred me to Rob MacLachlan of South Shore
> Yachts.  Rob MacLachlan said definitively I have hull #79, not hull #7.  So
> the HIN format C used before standardization on November 1st 1972
> apparently didn’t include any digits indicating the month in which the hull
> was laid up.
>
>
>
> I’ll be damned, I said.  All this time I thought I had hull #7.
>
>
>
> Rick Bushie on this list owns 30 MK I hull #1, and his HIN plate says
> simply “30-1 1971N”.
>
> Brian Buttigieg in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #5, he says, but
> hasn’t posted his HIN yet.
>
> Jack Rousseau in the Facebook group owned 30 MK I hull #8 and said it was
> made in 1971.
>
> Sean Dillon in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #14 and says it’s a
> 1971 boat.
>
> Ed Levert on this list owned hull #19 and thought it was a 1971 boat.
>
> The owners of HINs 30002672, 30005972, and 30009472 have also been heard
> from here or in the 

Stus-List Bilge cleaner

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What do listers like to clean and deodorize their bilge?  Mine needs a
major clean and freshening.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List Large spinnaker

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Does any have 3/4 oz symmetrical spinnaker for C 44 that they would like
to sell?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List KVH Quadro Instruments

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have a working system that I took off my boat.  I am offering it free to
any of you who want it. Just pay for the shipping.

Items included:
Anemometer wind wand
70 feet of mast cable
All manuals
Keypad (1) with wire
Dual displays (4)
Covers (2)
NMEA 4910 Interface (2)
Brain box 4321 (1)
All connecting cable and connectors.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Shifting cable

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Thanks John, My cable is inside the pedestal.

Fred

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred
>
>
>
> Are your cables located inside the pedestal itself or inside the external
> support tubes?  Ours are in the external tubes and can offer some lessons
> learned when I replaced ours a few years back
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2019 12:48 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard
> *Subject:* Stus-List Shifting cable
>
>
>
> I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near
> where the cable attaches to the shift lever?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shifting cable

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

The Edson site looks like a great help.
Thanks
Fred

On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 10:07 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Yes,  On my Edson, The shift cable and the throttle cable terminate at
> their respective levers inside the pedestal and then further down inside
> the pedestal, there is a fitting that captures both and a single screw
> penetrates the shell of the pedestal.  I would change both at the same
> time.
>
> The Edson sight has great documentation:
>
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB396EngineControlInstr.pdf
>
>
> Chuck S, Resolute, 1990 C 34R
>
>
> On April 9, 2019 at 12:47 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near
> where the cable attaches to the shift lever?
>
> Thanks
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Shifting cable

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near
where the cable attaches to the shift lever?

Thanks
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Stus-List Shift w

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dan, I’ll let you know where and how when pull the old one.
May be awhile as cold and snowing.

Another question. My broken cable is self inflicted.  While sailing in
heavy winds I tried to tried to shift from reverse to neutral. Because it
did not want to shift, I applied a lot of pressure.  That broke the cable.
What caused the transmission to bind up?  I assumed the prop was not
spinning while in reverse.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List Broken shift cable

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Sunday the shift cable on my 44 broke. Are there any 44 owners out who have
replaced this cable?
My cable is a red Morse cable.
My question is; how long is it?
I would like any suggestions on how to fish a new cable in.  The cable
comes down from the binacle runs under 2 fuel tanks and floorboards to the
engine.

Thanks
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My experience is that with epoxy/ heavy varnish, when you get a chip or
crack down to bare wood, water creeps  into the adjoining areas and turns
dark. The only fix is strip and do it again.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:36 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA
>  
> from
> AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Question: without a check valve how do you stop the pump from continually
recycling the water remaining in hose. It’s almost 20 feet from the pump
and switch to the transom.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Jan 15, 2019 at 9:16 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My Rule 1500 is broken and i'm looking for a replacement. I know some
> people here have a system including the mandatory manual pump, the "main",
> often turbine type  electric pump and a low GPH suction pump to empty the
> bilge.
>
> I'm not quite there yet, and would just like to get the best "main"
> electric pump that could fit. Is there a better option than the Rule 1500
> out there that would have about the same footprint ? Whale has a new line
> but the pump is a bit bigger. Could a equivalent capacity diaphragm pump be
> a choice ? What about auto pump with integrated switch, are they reliable ?
>
> My setup includes a Rule float swith that will be replaced with a "water
> witch" switch once broken and i use a check valve. (i know some are against
> this, aka Rule themself).
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33 mkII
> new-Richmond, Qc
> Canada
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Engine oil

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
What you use?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I had same problem until I had the tank repaired and cleaned. The blockage
was happening between the tank and the primary filter. I had to blow in the
hose to clear. Yuk!  I bought a soccer ball pump that worked well.
Later, installed a squeeze bulb to prime the system.  A secondary benefit
of bulb was when the engine quit the bulb would go flat and I could
immediately tell if the hose was clogged.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 3:03 PM Dennis Peters via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I had a very similar problem last year, although it cost me a tow to
> figure it out. Eventually we had the tank taken out and cleaned. It wasn’t
> cheap, but it gives me a lot more confidence for next year.
>
> Cheers,
> Dennis
>
> Dennis Peters
> dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> > On Nov 14, 2018, at 15:42, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the
> marina.  Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.
> Repeat a few times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel
> gauge not being configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second
> culprit may be dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the
> tank and that could stir things up.
> >
> > So the next day we began the investigation.
> >
> > We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked
> the primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
> >
> > In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
> >
> > So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one
>

> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Line prices

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I tried to buy a halyard at West M today. Turns out good high tech line is
25% off. The 40% only was on cheap dock line.
When does Defender have their sale?
Where else should I look?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Baby stays

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

We have rarely had to use our baby stay. But,  when we needed it, it was a
real comfort.
To keep lines from hanging up when it is stowed against the mast, I put it
in about 10 feet of half inch plastic conduit. The conduit helps slide the
sail across when the baby stay is being used.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 4:04 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Baby stays are nothing but trouble more adjustments and totatly in the way
> of everything else some C designs dont have them and some older designs
> have single spreaders and no check stays. Keeps sailing simple and just as
> good and just as fast like my 35  mkII i dare you to keep with me around
> the course. KISS
>
> On Wed, Nov 7, 2018 at 6:09 PM John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Len,
>> Unfortunately I just purchased two new headsail lines ( 11mm VPC) I
>> thought they would come nicely cut trimmed, sealed, taped, something but
>> they were literally hacked off frayed and I had to waste 6” cut and seal
>> myself lesson learned  I really wish I went with one long piece as now I
>> could do the butterfly knot or just cut myself and have a nice slice done
>> to attach to the soft shackle
>> Been a year of learning for me :) but all good ! Good news most of the
>> goodies are finally done and I will sail this winter in NC if it’s over 50
>> degrees F :)
>>
>> John Conklin
>> S/V Halcyon
>>
>> > On Nov 7, 2018, at 4:43 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > John, the 37+ has a baby stay in front of the mast that a metal shackle
>> or a knot sometimes gets caught on. Soft shackles work great. Your 1/2 inch
>> sheet is good for about 10,000#. 1/4 inch dyneema core made into a soft
>> shackle about 12,000#
>> > Give or take plenty strong enough. You do need loops in the sheets to
>> make it work. Like others had said easy to make. Before I bought a fid set
>> I used a bic pen as a fid and made a dozen while watching a hockey game.
>> > Len Mitchell
>> > Crazy Legs
>> > 1989 37+
>> > Midland On.
>> >
>> > Sent from my mobile device.
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C9f0e5f8b7cf64d2b0c0008d644fa3d05%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636772238880807583sdata=Taa2JuvDrpGmSZcoZRE3NoZCAOXhNYumHEGVcIM4DsY%3Dreserved=0
>> >
>> ___
>>
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>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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>
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels and LED light bulbs.

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Don,  it seems to me you need more battery power. You have adequate
charging, but with only 2 batteries with about 200 ah capacity,  you have
100 ah of usable power. Your fridge probably uses about 5 amps per hour or
120 amp hours per day. That alone exceeds what you should use. Not to
mention leaving something to start you engine.
On our boat we have 4 batteries with over 400 ah. Even with this we need to
charge every 3 days.

The other thing you should look at is the insulation of your fridge. It can
make a big difference.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Sat, Oct 13, 2018 at 4:27 PM Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Interesting - have been contemplating exactly this for Windstar - 33-2,
> and  my needs and equipment are  similar for contemplated summer cruising
> in Georgian bay.
>
> I have a Bimini and can barely fit 200w (iirc) of solar panel on the
> Bimini, which is the bare minimum required to keep my house battery whole.
>   (I could be misremembering the wattage)  Mounting the flexible panels
> will take some thought.   I don’t want to bother with set up and take down
> panels
>
> I have converted to LED lighting - a big difference in power consumption
> and have used a variety of light sources, including some inexpensive
> halogen replacement bulbs from amazon and some dome lights from princess
> auto.   Am very happy with both despite the low cost.
>
> IMHO Biggest remaining issue is the fridge - it needs to be better sealed
> and better insulated is to reduce the amp-hour draw.  This will take some
> thought and is a project for the winter.
>
> Am a bit behind on blog updates but will catch up over the next week or so.
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2015/12/hello-all-this-blog-is-intended-to.html
>
> Am interested in the evolution of your plans!
>
> Dave
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 13, 2018, at 1:42 PM, DON JONSSON  wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Last year after putting in a new Beta engine with a larger alternator (110
> amp) we added an additional battery, a battery monitor, and to use all that
> power, a fridge.  (Of interest, and not the point of this email, is we went
> through two alternators on the boat last summer both on warranty.  Doesn't
> bode well.  We did not put in a smart regulator as it would void the
> warranty.  Guess that was a good thing.  Two mechanics have gone through
> the boat and all wiring is good.  They claim manufacturing default in both
> alternators.   Hmmm.)
>
> The fridge is a fantastic addition especially when you are up north with
> no stores to buy ice, or much food for that matter.   BUT, as you all know
> it takes a lot of power.  Which gets me to the questions.  Easy one first.
>
> 1.  We have added some new LED reading light fixtures but still have a few
> more old incandescent lights where we would like to keep the fixtures.  You
> can get replacement LED bulbs that range in price from a couple of dollars
> to $15.   I read that cheaper ones don't deal with variations in voltage
> very well and you should spend more money.  Does anyone have experience and
> recommendations.
>
> 2. The real solution, we think, is solar panels.  But how much do they
> really help and where to put them on a 34 foot sailboat.  It seems all
> locations come with a compromise.   We are considering:
>
> A: On top of the dodger, but the boom will always be an issue.  Especially
> since we don't have a bimini we use the boom for supporting our awning that
> we put up on hot sunny days.  Yes we occasionally get them up on the BC
> coast and blocking the sun is mandatory.
>
> B: Get a bimini and mount them on it.  But this gets us back to the
> sunshine issue.  Lots of days it isn't that warm and you want the sun on
> you.  A Bimini with solar panels is not that easy to fold out of the way.
> Also it isn't cheap.
>
> C: Hang them off the life lines or rails at the back of the boat with a
> support that allows you to set them flat when at anchor.  But we
> occasionally carry bikes back there and we couldn't have both at the same
> time.  Also looks a little clunky.
>
> D:  Leave them as portable and set them out when at anchor.  But then it
> is a pain and you don't do it unless you are sitting for a while and you
> have all the wire to deal with, etc.  And they aren't helping much under
> sail.
>
> So does anyone have a recommendation as to what they have done and how it
> works.  Also how many amp hours did you get on a sunny day?  What size of
> panels did you use.
>
> I know, that like everything on a boat it is always a compromise, we are
> just trying to figure out which one to make.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My Airmar transducer would not show speed.
We discovered the water temp circuit was open. The speed will not work if
the thermistor is not functional. I did not need the temp info, so we put
in a 15 ohm
resistor to replace the open circuit. That was over 5 years ago and it
worked like a charm.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:54 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water
> rushes in.  Remain calm, and have your blank handy.
>
> *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Gary Nylander 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
> Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You
> may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into
> the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
>
> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product
> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed
> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA
> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's
> not a wiring issue (95% certain)...
>
> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside
> of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water
> around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt.
> The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach
> the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out
> completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely
> risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
>
>
>
> WISH ME LUCK!
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What Ed says.
>
>
>
> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting
> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a
> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
>
>
>
> Ed Levert
>
> C 34 Briar Patch
>
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks guys.
>
> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
> there's no current lol.
>
> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach
> under to spin the wheel manually...
>
>
>
> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I
> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the
> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at
> all? not even a "0.0.0"?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint.  I did not discover
> the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
>
>
>
> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Cc:* Edward Levert 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal
> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
> your problem.
>
>
>
> Ed Levert
>
> C 34 Briar Patch
>
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying
> to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is
> with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where
> I'm going wrong?
>
>
>
> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor"
> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
>
>
>
> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer
> and the black and shield were 

Re: Stus-List years a C owner

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I was 5 when I got my first boat, a row boat. I began sailing opt’s at 12.
Although I sailed through college,  I did not own another boat until I
bought a flattie ( Gary 18) after college.
My first keel boat was a San Juan 24. From there I got a C 34. It was a
great family cruiser that we owned for 8 years.

>From there it was a couple of racer cruisers for the next 20 years.

Ten years ago we got Fury, a C 44.  It is primarily our cruiser with a
few races thrown in. Our great adventure with Fury was taking it to the Sea
of Cortez for the winter 5 years ago.

During the last 20 years I have very actively raced a Cal 20 in a one
design fleet of 12 to 20 Cal’s.

That brings me to the ripe old age of 76 with 71 years of boating and 69
years of sailing and 18 years in C’s.

Wahoo!!  Still sailing after all these years.

Fred Hazzard
Fury
Portland, Or


On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:54 PM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've owned Septims for 24 years.
>
> Allen Miles
> C 30-2
> Hampton, VA
>
> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018, 6:45 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have owned Thirsty for eighteen years.  This is my third boat; first
>> C I have been sailing for fifty-two years, and racing for almost as
>> long. I'm still racing at age seventy-nine.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 6:36 AM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Al,
>>> I have a question for the list.
>>> How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.
>>>
>>> I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
>>> Howard Paul, 35-3
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=xfTPGydIC5lbnxFSLbkB_opEp8NYzL0ux80Wrn5OEKg=VmLO7Y8hQ3mcQTvG7hL0X51NzqzgP-I7VYERMD7ONSY=
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing Table ...

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What finish is on your table and in what condition?
What would you like it to look like?

Fred Hazzard
Fury
Portland Or

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 12:48 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am taking out my cabin table from my 81' 40- 2 to refinish this winter.
> Anybody refinish one?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_690500445140972069_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Hurricanes

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have a questions about insurance.
When I spent the winter on my boat in the Baha de California the insurance
was about three times what I pay at home. I was also required to be out of
Mexico June into September.
My question is; what do boat owners have to do in Florida and the Gulf?
Also, how do rates compare to other areas?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Stus-List Windows gone bad

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Did the sealant and tape delam from the window or the boat ?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List C hull number

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Veiko, when I bought my boat the hin number on the transom was lost when
owner had it painted in California. When I registered it in Oregon,  they
assigned a new number that I put on the transom.   My insurance company
accepted it with no questions.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 6:17 AM Veiko Piirsalu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello
>
> I just bought 1982 C 30E (European version, made in Sweden)
> Problem is, i cant find hull number (HIN) - it is not on transom, where it
> usually is. Previous owner also did not find it and right now yacht is
> registered without hull number. Unfortunately i cant insurance vessel
> without hull number.
> Any experience with this European version of C ? Maybe someone can help ?
>
> Thank you in advance
> Veiko from Estonia
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Bases

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Peter, they are just what I need.
Now I have to figure out how to get Canadian funds to you.

Fred Hazzard

On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 9:46 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would also like a picture
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> > On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:39 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I have four never-used 'Type D' bases available.
> >
> > South Shore offers them at $80 (CAD) and HMP at $79 (CAD) each.
> >
> > Offered at $40 (CAD) each + shipping from Victoria, BC. EMT or PayPal.
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Bases

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Any chance you can send me a picture of a base?

Fred Hazzard

On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 9:56 PM Fred Hazzard  wrote:

> Peter,  I think these are the ones I need for my boat.  I will take them.
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> Portland, Or
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 9:40 PM Peter Fell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have four never-used 'Type D' bases available.
>>
>> South Shore offers them at $80 (CAD) and HMP at $79 (CAD) each.
>>
>> Offered at $40 (CAD) each + shipping from Victoria, BC. EMT or PayPal.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Bases

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Peter,  I think these are the ones I need for my boat.  I will take them.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 9:40 PM Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have four never-used 'Type D' bases available.
>
> South Shore offers them at $80 (CAD) and HMP at $79 (CAD) each.
>
> Offered at $40 (CAD) each + shipping from Victoria, BC. EMT or PayPal.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Broken breaker?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

According to my electrician friend it is not uncommon for a breaker to
fail.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CnC 44
Portland Or

On Sat, Aug 4, 2018 at 11:03 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Frost day puts our 3 week summer cruise, headed to the Rendezvous next
> weekend..I am having an electrical issue.
>
> Has anyone had a breaker wear out and  not just stop working but, rather,
> begin to trip at a  lower load than their original level?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Tom, sorry about not contacting you, but arrived late and did not see Alera
till my morning dock walk.
I hate to a man drink alone. 

Fred

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 8:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred
>
> And you didn’t call?  Damn, I had to drink along...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2018, at 6:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 15:37:37 -0700
> From: Fred Hazzard 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour
>
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Tom, we just stayed Saturday evening at your clubs dock in Quartermaster
> harbor. What a great facility.  I also was able see the marvelous Alera. It
> looks almost like a new boat.
> Thanks for the hospitality.  Your resident live aboard is a neat old guy to
> talk with.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I feel your pain. Been there done that. $30,000 later and the boat was like
new again.   I love insurance.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:55 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David
>
> I'll echo the others.  We have all grounded or will.  On my 35MK1 I hit
> the rocks outside of Pervost Harbor in the San Juan Islands.  Fortunately
> aside from some ribs on me and bending the wheel, the boat handled it way
> better than we did. I was fortunate to able to back out without incident.
>
> I have no idea what the tidal range is where you are.  But on reading your
> account and with the usual 20/20 hindsight in full play here, I have to
> wonder if just waiting out the tide cycle may have been a better option.
>
> Hope it all turns out for you and Aries!
>
> Tom B
>
> At 09:49 AM 7/16/2018, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 12:38:23 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Catharsis message
>
> Message-ID:
>  <
> ca+zacrbui68zss1k9kj7ums-jnp3srxxu2f7u49oetxy3+8...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ugh!  Sorry for your misfortune.  I believe there are sailors who have run
>
>
> aground and those that will.  The severity is the only differentiation.  In
> the Chesapeake, fortunately we have very little rock or reefs.  In Solomons
> we have a number of shole areas in which we sail around regularly.  Even
> when aware of the hazards I have occasionally found myself being slipped
> below the line created by the navaids.  I ha e to remember not to focus
> exclusively on the one i  front of me but the one behind as well.
>
> Whether driving on the road or the water my dad always said look ahead and
> make sure to have and exit strategy - a place to bail out.  Your experience
> is a sobbing reminder.  Is it safe to assume that you have a chartplotter
> at the helm?  I believe some chartplotters have the ability to alert you to
> hazards (minimum depth, collision avoidance, danger zones, etc.)  Maybe
> look into these features in the future.
>
>
> All then best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 11:19 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my
> > depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and
> > therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that
> > could help as well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday
> > and is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We
> > were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a
> > local marina.  The damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it
> > could have been.  When they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef
> > (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the
> > shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the
> > rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed
> > up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is
> now
> > forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the
> rudder
> > on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C
> parts),
> > and I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No
> one
> > was hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have
> > an appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating
> homes
> > at sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.
> >
> > I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what
> > happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware
> of
> > all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would
> > never ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef
> during
> > a race a few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and
> > speed, in that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors
> other
> > than racing with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from
> > other things.  We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers
> Island
> > sound.  It was blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the
> > course and the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish
> > heading due North toward the CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was
> > happy that we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to
> > the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to
> > parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a
> deep
> > breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns out that
> the
> > Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East of the
> single
> > offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw 

Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Tom, we just stayed Saturday evening at your clubs dock in Quartermaster
harbor. What a great facility.  I also was able see the marvelous Alera. It
looks almost like a new boat.
Thanks for the hospitality.  Your resident live aboard is a neat old guy to
talk with.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:44 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey gang...here's the link to register for the PNW C Rendezvous.
> https://bit.ly/2up1AkS
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My 4 cyl Yanmar (non turbo) has begun to smoke a lot more when first
starting. It is a blue smoke that mostly goes away when it warms up. It
starts very easily and runs smoothly with good power.
I would love to hear your opinions of possible problems and cures.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
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Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have 2 at home and 4 on my boat. How do they deal with all those?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 7:30 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> It was discussed but we may have new listers since then.
>
> It's fairly easy.  Have your extinguisher handy and go here:
>
>
> https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/product-alerts/recall-kidde-fire-extinguisher/
>
> Enter the model number and serial number to see if your extinguisher is
> recalled.  If so, fill out your personal info and Kidde will send you a
> replacement.  Drop your old one in their box, slap on the supplied label
> and call FedEx for pickup.  Many FedEx offices will not take it because it
> requires a specially trained person to accept it.
>
> I got two replacements.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 9:06 PM, tom via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I don't know if this has been brought up before, but please check if you
>> have Kidde with plastic handles. These have all been recalled and you can
>> get replacements for free.
>>
>>
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/inmar-adx-files/N130284/US_Plastic+Handle+Product+ID+Guide.pdf
>>
>> Tom Oryniak
>> Carry On 33-1
>> Raritan Bay Nj
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018 at 12:25 PM, mark woehnker via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Mark Woehnker
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 1, 2018, 12:14 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>

 https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf

 I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance tag.
 Six of one...



 Cheers, Al

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>>> ___
>>>
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>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning cabin teak prior to varnish application

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have had great success with Minwax polyurethane satin on large surfaces
and gloss on trim pieces. I applied on large areas with 4” high density
foam roller.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or



On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 2:59 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We recently used Simple Green and a dobie pad to clean off the teak
> bulkhead prior to refinishing--it worked fine.  I bought TSP but never used
> it.
>
> I am a firm believer in EPIFANES varnish.  I used 2 base coats of gloss
> (because it has UV inhibitors) and the 2 coats of rubbed effect satin
> finish varnish on top.  I lightly sanded between coats with decreasing grit
> size.  It came out fantastic.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
>
> On Jun 26, 2018, at 4:40 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Have decided to bite the bullet and brighten up my cabins by cleaning up
> the teak which has only ever been oiled—and not really that often!
> I am leaning toward using the spray on stuff from Clorox similar to
> ‘scrubbing bubbles’ to clean and remove what little oil/dirt remains before
> applying a polyurethane based ‘varnish’.
> This is a big job on my 1995 36’ XL/kcb—there are 3 cabins and several
> bulkheads and doors to do so I cannot obsess over the cleaning or the
> varnish application.
> The list has mentioned solutions with TSP, etc. but unless there are
> likely to be problems with my Clorox stuff, I prefer this premixed.
> Also what polyurethane varnish is considered the best looking with the
> fewest number of coats.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 7:09 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago
> area - 16 years, as a matter of fact.  That said, for some reason here in
> Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).  They say
> it yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality
> either way down here, at least as of yet.
>
> I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).
> How difficult is it to remove in reality?
>
> For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny,
> seawater exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
>
> I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback
> from the locals...
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* coltrek--- via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* "colt...@verizon.net" 
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 22, 2018 9:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wax
>
> No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between
> a wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I  am
> using Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite
> astounded when he came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache.
> Everybody with wax on gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not
> stick to Rejex . And he was sold.
> Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else
> just mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow
> is where you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer.
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
> --
> On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
>
> Rejex.
>
> http://rejex.com/marine/
>
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
> 6-oz-/14823.uts
>
>
> Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
> swears by it.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Stus-List Wax
>
> Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
> summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
> that would work for gel coat.
> Cheers
> Andy
> Formerly,
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Now,
> Baltic 47
> Masquerade
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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>
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> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Andy, speaking of Algrip what is the best way to deal with minor surface 
abrasions ?

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland, Or

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2018, at 12:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all 
> summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure 
> that would work for gel coat.
> Cheers
> Andy
> Formerly,
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Now, 
> Baltic 47
> Masquerade
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

By beveling and polishing the edges you prevent tiny crevices from becoming 
major cracks.
Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
Portland Or 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 14, 2017, at 8:52 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good point!  I also put a 45 degree bevel on the back side of the Plexiglas 
> to about half the thickness.  I also put a very small bevel (1/16") on the 
> front side just to protect any bare feet that might hit it.
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 14, 2017 at 11:42 AM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 3/16 to 1/4 all the way around. 
>> I also bevel the the plexiglass a little. 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> Doug Mountjoy 
>> POYC 
>> Rebecca Leah 
>> Lf39
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 12/14/17 03:03 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
>> 
>> Thanks.  3/16 to 1/4 inch total (adding half that amount top and bottom, and 
>> side to side) or that much space all around (which is clearly more than my 
>> existing windows)?
>>  
>> From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2017 11:25 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: svpegasus38
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
>>  
>> When I did the windows on both of my boats I tried for 3/16 to 1/4 inch gap 
>> around the plexiglass.  It will expand quite a bit when warmed by the sun. I 
>> also tried to get everything sealed before the sun hit the plexiglass 
>> because of the expansion.
>> On my LF38 companion way I installed 1/2 thick plexiglass doors. At night  
>> there was an 1/8 in gap. The doors would over lap by roughly 1/8+ when the 
>> sun hit them. 
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> POYC
>> Rebecca Leah 
>> Lf39
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List new haylards

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Josh does the luff you main fit between your black bands?  It should be just 
little short with little to no tension and stretch to fit as you put on halyard 
tension as the wind pipes up.  Your Cunningham should take out wrinkles in the 
lower portion of the sail as you tension your back stay.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland Or

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 12, 2017, at 11:38 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I bought my new mainsail the sail maker was kind of aloof and 
> unconcerned regarding sail stretch.  I was quite interested in the bolt rope 
> selection but the maker didn't have any available options.  He suggested that 
> it was irrelevant.  I see some very winning boats with puckers and scallops 
> in their main luff.  Maybe my sail maker is right.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Dec 12, 2017 2:00 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I ordered a new main for next year – not $20,000, however.  I’ll let you 
>> know.
>>  
>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2017 12:47 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards
>>  
>> Josh,
>>  
>> Just need a $20,000 main!
>>  
>> Joel
>>  
>>> On Tue, Dec 12, 2017 at 11:13 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Matthew,
>>>  
>>> All the high tech low stretch line in the world can't make up for the 
>>> stretch in the sail.  I suspect that  this is the primary reason you'll 
>>> need to use the cunningham.  I have a stay-set halyard for my spinnaker and 
>>> regularly use it for climbing the mast.  It is noticeably stretchy whereas 
>>> the high tech line (crystalline) doesn't give what so ever.
>>>  
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>  
>>>  
>>> On Dec 12, 2017 10:05 AM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> James:
>>>  
>>> If you’re looking for general feedback, I’ll add my two cents.  The 
>>> main halyard on my 42 was wire-to-rope and was led internally through an 
>>> exit box near the base of the mast.  In my case, a winch on the deck near 
>>> the mast was used for the main.  A few years ago we were heading out for a 
>>> race in about 20-25 knots of breeze, started to raise the main, and the 
>>> exit box ripped out of the mast.  Something about that 90 degree angle 
>>> results in a lot of force.  We made a semi-permanent repair that got us 
>>> through the season.  At the end of the season, I decided to do several 
>>> things: 1) instead of using the old configuration, I eliminated the exit 
>>> box and started using a mast-mounted winch that was already on the mast but 
>>> wasn’t being used for anything (which I found curious); 2) a short distance 
>>> above the winch, I installed a mast exit plate so the halyard would stay 
>>> internal; and 3) I replaced the wire-to-rope halyard with a low-stretch New 
>>> England rope.  I forget the name, but it was more high tech than Sta-Set.  
>>> I like the new configuration, although someone needs to raise the halyard 
>>> at the mast (which is no different than it was before but may be a drawback 
>>> for shorthanded sailors).  The only issue I have is that the high-tech line 
>>> is not as low-stretch as manufacturer claims, and I use the Cunningham more 
>>> than I care to as the wind picks up.  That said, the run from the winch to 
>>> the top of the mast is over 50 feet, so some stretch is to be expected.  
>>> When the current halyard is retired, I will replace it with something that 
>>> is really low stretch, and may possibly go back to wire-to-rope.
>>>  
>>> MLW
>>>  
>>> From: Jim via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 10:05 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: j...@mymts.net
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List new haylards
>>>  
>>> Neil
>>> If you
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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>> 
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 

Re: Stus-List Looking for #4 Jib

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Joe the I on my 44 is 59’.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland Or

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2017, at 12:10 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> i'm looking for a #4 dacron jib for my 44.  I is 55.  Total area no more than 
> 400 sq feet.  Make your spouse happy and clean out that sail locker!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What causes it to start poorly?  To start it we have to give it full throttle.  
One more clue is that when it first fires some white smoke comes out..

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury 
Portland Or


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Re: Stus-List Removing companionway slider plexiglass, C 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

If you are happy with the color you have take a piece with you and your 
supplier will match. 

Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland Or

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 19, 2017, at 2:52 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Gary,
>  
> Is there a name for the color of plexiglass you used?  I assume it is not the 
> bronze color you used?  I am in the process of getting new windows for my C 
> 99 and also like the darker color.  If yu could send or post the pictures 
> that would be appreciated.  strig...@eastlink.ca
>  
> Thanks
> Rod
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
> Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: November-18-17 5:35 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing companionway slider plexiglass, C 37/40+
>  
> Bruce,
>  There is no way of removing the acrylic without damaging the gel coat, 
> so lets get that out of the way, up front.  I used a router, and others have 
> used sharpened putty knifes.  None work very well.  I've talked with the 
> people at Plexus and they have no suggestions, either.  I used a slightly 
> darker tint of Plexiglas, and it completely hides the gel coat damage.  Even 
> from a few inches away, you cannot see the damage.  I also like the looks of 
> the darker acrylic.  It's had to see in but no problem to see out.
>  
>  I did all the windows on Kaylarah two years ago, and installed them with 
> VHB tape.  I am extremely happy with the results.  I have no leaks.  Also the 
> VHB tape is very easy to install, while the Plexus requires all sorts of 
> fixtures to hold the window in place while the Plexus sets up.  I have posted 
> pictures many times.  If you haven't seem, I can post them again.
>  
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
>  
> On Sat, Nov 18, 2017 at 9:16 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hello all,
>  
> I am going to replace the plexiglass on my companionway.  The sliding part is 
> easy.  However, for the fixed portion forward of slider, it is stuck down to 
> fiberglass.  I am guessing that it was originally installed with Plexus like 
> the fixed ports on the side were done.
>  
> Can anyone confirm that? 
>  
> As for removing the plexi, should I simply tap a few putty knives in between 
> the plexi and the fiberglass to pop it loose, or do you have a better idea?
>  
> Then seal with VHB tape, correct?  This area seems to be about 1 1/2" wide by 
> comparison to the fixed ports.
>  
> Thanks for the insights!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
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> 
>  
> 
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Re: Stus-List Boat Tour of my C

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dan no suggestion. But I may be able to help with questions you may have.
Fred 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2017, at 4:13 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Yeah, I wanted to get a big one capable of crossing an ocean comfortably. 
> Definitely thinking about the run to Barbados but not until next year.
> 
> Fred, what is your suggestion?
> 
> Thanks so much guys,
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 7, 2017, at 7:16 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I have a 36 and I now want a 44.  8 foot itis
>> Bill Walker 
>> CnC 36
>> 
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tuesday, November 7, 2017 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Dan thanks for the tour. Your 44 looks great.  Please keep sending your 
>> videos . If you have questions, I might have a suggestion.
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland, 44
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Nov 7, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey guys, if you want to check out some of the upgrades that were done by 
>> the previous owner on my C to turn her into more of a cruiser, we just 
>> posted an interior boat tour on our YouTube sailing vlog:
>> 
>> https://youtu.be/4p_fZNIH_hk
>> 
>> This isn't just a random video plug lol - I'm a member on this list and post 
>> here from time to time :)
>> 
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh (soon to become Balachandra)
>> 1986 C
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Boat Tour of my C

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dan thanks for the tour. Your 44 looks great.  Please keep sending your videos 
. If you have questions, I might have a suggestion.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, 44

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hey guys, if you want to check out some of the upgrades that were done by the 
> previous owner on my C to turn her into more of a cruiser, we just posted 
> an interior boat tour on our YouTube sailing vlog:
> 
> https://youtu.be/4p_fZNIH_hk
> 
> This isn't just a random video plug lol - I'm a member on this list and post 
> here from time to time :)
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh (soon to become Balachandra)
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The
manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper
alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up
the pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being
compatible with the rubber parts.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Stus-List Butyl rubber tape

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Can anyone tell me if C's built in 1986 used butyl rubber tape under
various tracks and rails.  I have a baby stay track and jib car track  that
appear to be leaking.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull paint

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My Awlgrip 14 yrs old and looks good except for some light dock rash.  I'd
like to polish out these surface blemishes. What should I do or not do?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland,Or

On Sep 9, 2017 9:21 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> AwlCare is good stuff.  I use it on Touche's 4 year old Awlcraft 2000
> paint about every 6 months.  It's very easy to apply and polish.  Can do
> entire boat in about 2-3 hours.  Nice shine when done.  Recommended.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 11:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> The instructions for maintaining the new paint job are to wash regularly
>> with fresh water, and annually with a product sold by the paint company.
>> (Awlcare?). The guy who did my paint job says the special stuff really
>> isn’t necessary, though it might be a good idea after the paint job is a
>> few years old.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dan,  in the 10 years I've sailed my 44 I have rarely found I need to use
the running  back stays.  In those few time I needed them the wind was
blowing hard and I had a lot of the back stay on to bend the mast to shape
the main and straighten the forestay.  At the same time we were sailing
into good size waves that caused the mast to pump forward every time we
bore into one.  Remember you will only use one running back at a time.  You
will have to switch sides each time to tack.  You can further stabilize the
mast by using the baby stay,   A word of caution,  if you have a lot of
back stay on and a lot of running back on and baby stay on after you have
dropped the sails be sure to ease the running back, as suddenly releasing
it can bring the mast down.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the
> twin adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for
> doing this but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these
> extra backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail
> or adding some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast.
> There is an inner forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the
> mast and is not meant to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I
> only plan to cruise this on this boat for now and I will be reefing from
> time to time which could create more force lower on the mast. How important
> are these adjustable backstays or should I just clip them off to the side
> and clear them from my everyday rig?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
>
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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Congrats Daniel. They are great boats. This forum has some very
knowledgeable and helpful members.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Aug 14, 2017 2:28 PM, "Daniel Cormier via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all, I just wanted to share that I'm now officially one of you!! We're
> just outside Mahone Bay NS as I type this sailing Breakaweigh home to
> Halifax!!!
>
> Dan Cormier
> 1986 C 44
> Halifax NS
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Adam I just replaced a port light using VHB tape and am very pleased with
results.  The tape with the Dow silicon sealant are very secure and
waterproof.  Follow the good advise of our fellow listers and the project
will go well.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adam, I have a 1978 C 36.  I replaced my ports with Bomar 2000 Series
> opening ports. I had to make the openings slightly larger but it worked
> well and I've not had any leaks since they were installed in2006.
>
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295. 1978 C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> Sent from my iPad Mini
>
> On Aug 13, 2017, at 08:53, Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C 36.  I know
> this has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work
> and does it seal as well.
>
> Thanks
>
> Adam Hayden
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
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Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I helped a friend bring his Amel up from the Baha last year. What a cushy
ride.  I brought my racing gloves assuming I would be handling lines.  The
most work I did was push buttons. Roll the sail out. Roll the sail in.Trim
the sail in. Let it out.  All motorized. This is a boat with a main, genoa
and mizzen. I got a blister on my finger.
All the comforts of home. Wash, dryer. Huge refrigerator/ freezing.  Umm
cold beer.  Three air conditioning systems.
I brought my foul weather gear.  Sitting under the hard dodger I had to put
on a long sleeve shirt on the midnight watch when it was blowing 25 to 30.
If I went  long term cruising I would like to have a boat like the Amel.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or



On Aug 2, 2017 4:27 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> TARTAN 3700 is very similar to 37+  or 37/40
>
> Hunter Legend series are well appointed and have low PHRFs.  I was quite
> envious of the 45 footer.
>
> I could be found cheating on my 37+ with a Grand Soleil 46.3
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1998/Grand-Soleil-46.3-
> 3056563/Seattle/WA/United-States
>
> I fell in love with the GS46.3 when I saw S/V Sea Wolf at Delaware City
> Marina.
> https://m.facebook.com/SeawolfAdventure/?_rdr
>
> Of course there is the Amel Super Maramu 2000.  Maybe not the fastest...
> Maybe not even the prettiest, but boy are they well built and capable boats.
>
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Aug 2, 2017 5:37 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  I am putting feelers out there to see if you or someone you know may be
> getting ready / or willing to sell either the 36xl, 110, or 37/40xl soon or
> before summer 2018.  My wife and I (and 2 yr old & 1month old sons) are
> starting to look at our next boat. We've looked at the 36xl and the 37+/40,
> but have not sailed either boat.Here are our particulars:
>
>- We are Pacific Northwest sailors out of Oregon.
>- We currently have a 30 mkII, which we love, but the boys are
>cramping our space already.
>- Primarily we cruise the Columbia River, year round, but are planning
>on keeping the boat in South Puget Sound summer 2018 and running it up and
>down the coast back to Oregon Spring and Fall.
>- We double hand, with lots of single handing as well.
>- I race at least once a week and get a few ocean races in during the
>year. I would like to race our next boat occasionally on some double handed
>ocean races and occasional buoy race, but it is not completely necessary as
>there are always other boats I can race with.
>- We generally spend every other weekend on the boat throughout most
>of the year, so we spend more time aboard than most.
>- I don't want a 'fixer' as I feel it is a waste of time and money.
>- We don't want a shoal draft.
>- An aft cabin is a must for us, which puts most everything
>pre-1988 out of consideration as far as I can tell
>- Open to other brands (dare I say) but prefer to stay C
>
> Let me know if you have any ideas.
>
> Best,
> Kevin
>
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>
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Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me.

Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the
the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp
blade?  The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight
turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime.

Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon.  When do I apply
the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will
extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before
affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I
apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I
can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8"
thick.

Another question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming that I have my
boat until the windows need replacing again,  how will I be able to remove
one if the tape is "permanent".

Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Stus-List 3M tape

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am finally going replace one of my long ports.  I wrote down 2 numbers
suggested by you listers.  Vbh 4991 & 5952.  Which one is preferred?
Also, where to buy, Amazon?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Voltages

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I can tell you from personal experience that AGMs won't servive either.  I
had 4 hooked in parallel  that I flattened to 4.5 v .  A painful
experience. At the same time I lost my inverter charger.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Jul 20, 2017 12:34 PM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but if those voltages  of 4.7
> volts and 5.7 volts were correct, they mean these batteries have been quite
> severely damaged and will never have anywhere near full capacity again.
> That is not a maybe. You can get many batteries like that to take a surface
> charge and appear okay with a voltage reading that looks somewhat normal.
> There is no muscle behind it. The charger is telling you they are 100%
> charged to their new  and very diminished capacity.  Some of the cells may
> also have run dry. This was not survivable for any flooded battery
> regardless of quality, or how it was treated otherwise.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 7/20/2017 10:10 AM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
>
> An update on this.  Monday morning I brought my batteries home (I've got
> two of these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Marine-
> Battery-Group-Size-29DC/20531539 dated May/June 2014 with relatively
> light use and constantly maintained by a 3amp solar charger).  And I bought
> this inexpensive charging unit: https://www.walmart.com/
> ip/Schumacher-Electric-15-Amp-Battery-Charger/46167057.
>
> One battery measured 4.7v before charging, and the other 5.7v, according
> to the charger's test function.  Each battery was on the charger for about
> 33 hours to charge back up to 13.2v / 13.5v and 100% charge according to
> the charger.  I haven't measured their voltage independently after charging
> with a multi-meter, but I did that at the start of the season and they were
> healthy.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dave I have a pair Bose cube speakers that put out great sound and are
surface mounted.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44

On Jul 3, 2017 12:03 PM, "Leslie Paal via CnC-List" 
wrote:

- if the amp is expecting 4 ohms load it will not drive the 8 ohms load to
full volume.
- the 30+ year old speaker cones maybe disintegrating at the outer edge
(suspension).  That will give you 'buzzy' sound.

Leslie.



On Mon, 7/3/17, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers
 To: "Sylvain Laplante" 
 Cc: syerd...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, July 3, 2017, 5:10 AM

 Merci
 sylvain, C'est possible, and I will check for an
 impedance mismatch, but perhaps  I should have been
 clearer.The setup works ok, I just want better sound.
   The bass is weak and the amp (I did not want complexity
 of a standalone amp) is  probably underpowered vs the
 efficiency of the speakers, and the aging speakers
 themselves may be suspect.  I don't want to
 chop holes in the boat for a mall-thumping adolescent mating
 call, I just want as close to 'audiophile' as I can
 get within the existing footprint/compromises, and am
 wondering mostly about the speakers listers may have
 discovered.
 Dave.

 Sent from my iPad
 On Jul 3,
 2017, at 7:54 AM, Sylvain Laplante 
 wrote:

 Maybe the speakers are
 8 ohms and the radio output is 4 ohms ( or vice-versa)
 ?Sylvain C 27

 Envoyé de mon iPhone
 Le 3 juil. 2017 à 07:31, Dave S via CnC-List
 
 a écrit :

 Sorry bout the accidental early send...
 So, I did replace Windstar's
 1980's Blaupunkt car cassette player that came with
 Windstar with a gimmicky but functional Pioneer unit, that
 has a fancy lightshow, a remote and many features that I
 will probably never use.  (the bluetooth input is great)
 I did not even look at the 80's vintage bracket mounted
 micro bookshelf speakers.
 The sound quality overall is pretty
 poor and I suspect that the speakers are tired, and may be
 suffering from age.
 Any suggestions as to efficient,
 compact speakers that can be bracket mounted in a
 boat?
 Thanks
 all.
 Dave







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 Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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stumurray

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 appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List 1986 C 44 balsa core isolated or not

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

As an owner of a 1986 44 I am very interested in the results of the survey
on your 44.  I have had mine for 10 yrs and all is good.
Feel free to ask me questions.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Jul 1, 2017 7:36 PM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

> I already did that on the hull and it sounds good and crisp. The topsides
> are hard to read because many areas are only 8-12 inches wide and you don't
> get the same sounds from those spots. The wider flatter sections sounded ok
> though.
>
> Dan
>
> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You could take a plastic mallet for yourself and percussion test in key
>> locations.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Jul 1, 2017 10:17 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Josh, that's what I suspected. The boat was well cared for and
>>> installs were all done by pros (I was told) so I should be ok to push ahead
>>> with the survey and hopefully become an owner like you guys :)
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 11:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 C designed solid areas for through-hulls and transducers but any
 aftermarket stuff may not have been installed in those locations.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Jul 1, 2017 10:04 PM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

 Sorry if this was sent twice - the first time I tried it I was not
 registered but had no responses...

 I'm looking at a 1986 C 44 to buy. Before I get into paying for a
 survey to check the core out with a moisture meter I'm wondering if any 44
 owners out there have had any problems with wet core? - when you remove
 through hull fittings is the core isolated with solid glass to prevent
 egress or can you visibly see the balsa core layer?

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>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning a really dirty boat

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I found scrubbing bubbles at Whale Mart.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland. Or

On Jun 7, 2017 1:22 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> While now exactly C related, this may provide help to some lister.
>
> I previously posted about cleaning my old NACRA beach cat in preparation
> for selling it.  It was REALLY dirty.  Lichens, attached vines, mold, you
> name it.  I experimented with polishing compound, 800 grit sandpaper,
> polishing compound with a high speed polisher/sander, Comet, Barkeepers
> Friend, and a few other things.  None worked well.
>
> The Admiral suggested Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach (my normal go to
> mold removal solution).  I combined that with a Scotchbrite pad and the
> result was *significantly *better and faster than any other method.
> Still took a bit of elbow grease but I feel I knocked hours off the job.
>
> Here's pics:
>
> Before cleaning:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsWTRWN3pMbG14emc
> After cleaning:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsZ19VZ05iNHowTDA
> Cleaning tools:  https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_
> sb5TfIENvsOHltOHR6WkRXZ3M
>
> I'll polish and wax it, replace some of the running rigging, pressure wash
> the trailer and list it.
>
> Anybody want a nice clean beach cat?  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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Stus-List Garmin nav pod

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I just got a deal on a Garmin 5208 plotter.  When I look to find a pod to
use at the binacle I find prices much higher than I paid for the plotter.
Looking for suggestions where to find something reasonable,

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Best-est wax or other protectant

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

A little off topic but what do you use to recondition and polish the
plastic windows in a dodger?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Thu, Apr 13, 2017 at 11:15 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hard carnuba waxes typically get the highest ratings.  PS did this review
> and Collonite Fleet Wax Paste (IIRC #855?) was rated such that I chose it
> for my hull.  On the deck their recommendation was WoodyWax.  You brush it
> on with a deck brush and it doesn't negatively impact the non-skid.
>
> It's a good amount of work but I plan on 2 days for polishing and waxing
> the hull every spring.  It has seemed easier each of the 3 successive years.
>
> Check out the various pictures.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yRHJmRThKbl9aN0U
>
> Follow the guide in this link.  If you want my specific routine I can get
> with tou off list.
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ySXNvdWVjb2ZZWW8/
> view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 13, 2017, 2:02 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Spent some real quality boat time last week...using 1000 grit wet
>> sandpaper to de-oxidize my topsides (where there is no non-skid).  The
>> process was sand...buff with buffer/oxidation remover...seal with teflon
>> polish...and seal/shine with wax.  (Then a couple beers for the
>> laborer...me!)
>>
>> Given the time/effort/exertion factor of this,  I want to know what the
>> gang nominates as the very best, excellent wax or sealer for topsides? I
>> don't want to do this again.   I understand this is a topic filled with
>> past horrors and unfounded attribution...but what the hell.  So what's your
>> nomination for best uv inhibiting, oxidize-busting shine-keeper for the
>> topsides?
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>>
>> (517)-490-5926 <(517)%20490-5926>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Port replacement

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

When we get more than 2 days without rain I am going to replace the
starboard cabin port.

Question.  When I replaced the window about 8 years ago I use Sikaflex 295
and their primer.  Now I am going to use 3 M tape and Dow 795. I am looking
for suggestions on how to remove the Sika products.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
tape help?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
> repair more difficult.  Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
> make future adhesives ineffective.
>
> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>
> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
> 795 to seal the edges.  Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
> unforseen disadvantages.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?  Caulk/adhesive,
> mechanical fasteners, or both?
>
> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C
> 37/40+
>
> Bruce,
>
> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows "work" significantly when
> the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous
> owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That being
> said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work better
> than what the PO used.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again everyone,
>
> Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
> windows.  I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
> similar).
>
> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
> for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>
> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply
> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>
> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>
> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All 

Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

On my 44 I have a deep sump aft of the mast with rule pump .  The pump must
push water slightly uphill almost 20 feet to discharge.  Until I added a
 check valve the 20 feet water would seep back into the bilge and the
pumping would start again. I don't see how or where I can add a loop close
to the pump.

Any suggestions how I can get along with out a check valve?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland

On Mar 23, 2017 8:06 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> As I share the same design (30-1) with you and have that really deep sump
> right under the mast, I have agonized over this issue a bunch. First, you
> have to get all the water out or your sump will always be wet and your mast
> step will degrade. Second, if you come up with a good way to install a
> vented loop, let me know. I have a check valve in the line from the Rule
> pump which is in the bottom of the sump. I know the limitations, so I have
> my pump on a manual switch, so it won’t drain the battery. It is marginal.
>
>
>
> I am going to add a diaphragm pump to the system and have the intake tube
> in the sump and the pump under the dinette seat. The vented loop and
> discharge - ???. If I run it back to the stern or aft quarter like my Whale
> hand pump and Rule, then a bunch of water will come back to the pump when
> it cycles off. I am trying to figure out how to run the discharge into the
> head area above the holding tank, put a vented loop right under the deck
> and then exhaust through the side, but that may allow water intrusion when
> heeled over. Still measuring. This probably won’t happen until next winter
> – many other projects this time plus the mast is still up and I may pull it
> next year.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> #593
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *RANDY
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 23, 2017 1:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* RANDY 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?
>
>
>
> Revisiting this thread, as I came across a few interesting articles today:
>
> * http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm
>
> * http://www.docksidereports.com/bilge_water_blues.htm
>
> * http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/93937-
> bilge-pump-non-return-valve.html
> 
>
>
>
> I found those googling about bilge pumps and check valves, as I'm in the
> middle of overhauling Grenadines' bilge pumping system which currently has
> check valves in it.
>
>
>
> Then it occurred to me: maybe I ought to think about the design principles
> for my bilge pumping system :)  Instead of just refreshing what's there
> with new components implementing the same design.  The articles were good
> for provoking thought about that.  I came to some conclusions that seem
> right for my situation.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy
>
>
> --
>
> *From: *"David via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"David" 
> *Sent: *Wednesday, March 8, 2017 3:46:40 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?
>
>
>
> If you have a catastrophic failure good batteries and luck (attentive
> neighbors?) will save her on the mooring.   If you have bilge pump counter
> on an automatic telling you the pattern of pumps per time period left
> unattended, you may see a problem before it gets out of hand.
>
>
>
> And hardwired to battery with fuse...
>
>
>
> Cheap insurance.
>
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of David
> Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 8, 2017 3:45 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
> *Cc:* David Knecht
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?
>
>
>
> I am curious about the logic of this.  My boat is on a mooring unattended
> for days at a time.  I have a manual bilge pump that I turn on if
> necessary.  If I am not on the boat and a serious leak develops, the pump
> would run until the battery is dead and then the boat would sink.  So under
> what circumstances would you expect an automatic bilge pump to save the
> boat?  Perhaps a slow leak?  Also, I normally turn off all the boat power
> when I leave.  If you have an automatic switch, do you have the switch
> wired directly to the battery, or do you leave you electrical system on
> when you are not on the boat?  Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2017, at 3:31 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Remarkably, my boat was not equipped with an automatic bilge pump,
> but instead has an external pump located near the nav station operated by a
> circuit breaker switch.  I recently purchased a Water Witch for the bilge
> and a three-way 

Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Another 29 pound 2 cycle motor is a Tohatsu or Nissan 3.5 hp.

My 4 hp Suzuki 2 cycle is 43 pounds and has the power to plane the 9 ft
Avon with one person aboard.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

On Thu, Mar 2, 2017 at 9:47 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm at the age where motor light-weight is more important to me than dink
> speed. I picked up two used Johnson/Evinrude 2 cycle 1.2HP(!) motors (~$300
> each, often advertised as 2HP), and love the 28 lbs lift up to the rail.
> They're fast enough for patient dinking on a 10" inflatable and an 8'
> Walker Bay, and in larger waves I've added a little row power once or
> twice. Only caveat is the carb jet is very tiny and easily clogged, so you
> need to add a $5 autostore gasoline in-line filter as well as prefilter the
> fuel mix when you fill the little tank (don't ask how I learned that)
>
> Nate
>
> C
> Tartan 31
>
> On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 2:24 PM, Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Relocating our C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a
>> tender to now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay,
>> Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to
>> serve as a tender in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many
>> times on charters but never really paid much attention to detail.
>>
>> I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy
>> to set up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early
>> in my thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4
>> person capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor,
>> with perhaps a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of
>> the same design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic
>> transportation.  No davits, it will either be towed or stowed.
>>
>> I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share
>> your thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What
>> factors should I be considering as I make my selection?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Bob McLaughlin
>> C 110 "Blue Devil"
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I like how easy  Cetol is to repair dings and scratches. A light feathering
sand and apply another coat.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

On Feb 28, 2017 1:12 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

I've been using Sikkens Cetol for years.  5 coats Cetol then 3 coats
clear.  Maintenance coat of clear every 6 months.  Seems to hold up well in
the Gulf Coast sun and heat.

BTW, don't use Cetol light.  Tried that once.  Not pleased.

However, I hear good things about Awlwood.  If I have to strip the wood and
re-apply, I might switch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:53 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers-
>
> Grenadine's new exterior handrails are ready for finish and installation.
> Wanted to see if any of you have a preferred varnish for exterior teak.
> I'm looking for a clear varnish with UV protection.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>

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Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I wonder why ABYC doesn't require GFCI's, yet surveyors report them and
some insurance demand them?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Sat, Feb 25, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not sure offhand, but I use them.  Considering the damp salty environment,
> I
> would not want to be without them.
> They work on inverter power as well :)
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
>
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
> Giannelia via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 10:37 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alex Giannelia 
> Subject: Stus-List GFCI outlets
>
> Do the current ABYC standards insist on GFCI outlets for 117 VAC branch
> circuits?
>
> Alex Giannelia
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>
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Stus-List Anchor chain

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain
for my ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a
link/  If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Solar Vent Fan on a 37/40+

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My 44 has dorades under the helmsman seat that are connected to a vent
blower in the engine compartment.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 2:05 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Josh,
>
> I can't imagine that dorade vents under the helmsman's seats would have
> been original equipment.  The certainly do not appear on our 1994 37+.
> That being said, with 1 large forward hatch, 4 small hatches aft and the
> ports into the cockpit, I've been wondering how to get active ventilation
> when we are off the boat.  It seems like a few Nicro vents, installed
> through the smaller hatches would be the logical approach.
>
> That said, as we are new to Florida, I'm not sure what people down here
> are doing, since the boats need to be air conditioned at the dock in summer!
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2017 3:32 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Solar Vent Fan on a 37/40+
>
> Edd,
>
> I've always told myself that when I install solar vents it will be in the
> port and stbd hatches.  I'd set one to blow in and one to suck out.  My
> thought is that this arrangement would draw air across the cabin for better
> circulation.  I'm in agreement, I don't want to cut into the acrylic
> lenses.  Well for that matter I don't want to cut into the deck.  I guess
> that's part of the reason I've never installed vents.
>
> I don't know if the PO installed dorad vents under the helmsmans hump of
> if they are original equipment.  I've considered running 12v vent fans and
> duct work to make them more effective.  I could power them from the main
> battery which is kept topped up with 200w solar panels.  I would use a low
> voltage shutoff to only run the fans when the voltage is greater than 12.7v
> (when the batteries are being charged).  The 12v fans are much cheaper than
> the solar ones and I wouldn't have to cut holes in the hatches or lenses.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Feb 9, 2017 12:27 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers — specifically the 37+ owners —
>
> Have any of you installed a solar vent fan into your 37+s? And if, so,
> where? There don’t seem to be a whole lot of options giving the deck and
> interior configurations. I’d prefer not to cut a hole into my forward hatch
> (or any other hatch)
>
> Any photos would be greatly appreciated.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurra
> y 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Mast wedges and hatch lens

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Alan,. where did you buy your cast acrylic in Portland?

Fred Hazzard
Fury

On Jan 2, 2017 11:39 AM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Kevin:
> I have four wedges, made out of oak.  They are tapered with a lip, as has
> already been mentioned.  The lip prevents them from falling through.
>
> Use cast acrylic for the hatch lens (9mm or 3/8").  You can get it in
> different shades of bronze.  I rough cut the new one with a sabre saw, and
> then used a router with a pattern bit to finish it.  Use double sided tape
> to hold the old one to the new piece of acrylic while you rout the new one
> to shape.  Don't use extruded acrylic, as it isn't as strong.
> Poly-carbonate is stronger, but it scratches more easily.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On 12/31/2016 10:43 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi,
>  I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C 30 Mk1, (- love the boat -) and I 
> have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me 
> with - thanks in advance.
>
> First - mast wedges
>  The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” that were 
> wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through the deck. 
> They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the original design 
> had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the entire 360degrees 
> around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to replace these - Spartite 
> ?
>
> Second - hatch lens replacement
>  The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have removed 
> the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier can cut the 
> new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to a bandsaw to 
> do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - Acrylic? Any 
> advice from others who have done this job before?
>
> thanks
> Kevin
>
> Kevin Deluzio
> 1980 C 30
> Kingston, ON,
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Cracked Boom

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Alan I'll be there around 5
Fred

On Nov 3, 2016 8:07 AM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Fred:
>
> If you're going to be at the Tropical Awards Party on Saturday, maybe I
> can take a look at your boom.
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Nov 3, 2016 at 6:45 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Alan, my boom had been welded in the same place.  The weld broke.  I had
>> a large fiberglass and carbon boot made that was epoxied in place.  So far
>> all good after almost 10,000 miles.  I think if you can have crack welded
>> and then a plate formed and welded over the area it is cheaper solution.
>>
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
>>
>> On Nov 2, 2016 6:54 PM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > After a race on Sunday, my crew discovered a crack in the boom.  It
>> extends across the boom for about an inch on each side of the boom, and
>> it's located just aft of the vang attachment.  The attachment is made out
>> of aluminum, and it looks like the welds are also cracked.  Has anyone on
>> the list experienced this? Can the boom be repaired, or will I need a new
>> boom?
>> >
>> > --
>> > Alan Bergen
>> > 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> > Rose City YC
>> > Portland, OR
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DgMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=6GOrpisXjjtOYt_YMlfeDaZP6glO5z5CbNhKCEkuz2g=P8cItHmzsFNm_1AGvC1oIrlNQ9gwCAoN52gAAAzcfzA=>
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> >
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>> pal.me_stumurray=DgICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
>> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
>> 6GOrpisXjjtOYt_YMlfeDaZP6glO5z5CbNhKCEkuz2g=P8cItHmzsFNm_1
>> AGvC1oIrlNQ9gwCAoN52gAAAzcfzA=
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Cracked Boom

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Alan, my boom had been welded in the same place.  The weld broke.  I had a
large fiberglass and carbon boot made that was epoxied in place.  So far
all good after almost 10,000 miles.  I think if you can have crack welded
and then a plate formed and welded over the area it is cheaper solution.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Nov 2, 2016 6:54 PM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" 
wrote:
>
> After a race on Sunday, my crew discovered a crack in the boom.  It
extends across the boom for about an inch on each side of the boom, and
it's located just aft of the vang attachment.  The attachment is made out
of aluminum, and it looks like the welds are also cracked.  Has anyone on
the list experienced this? Can the boom be repaired, or will I need a new
boom?
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Sailing from San Francisco to San Diego

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Pick a good weather window with winds from Northwest.  Be flexible as to
when you leave.  Point Conception can be very windy.
Generally after midnight winds ease.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Oct 12, 2016 12:36 PM, "Jim Eagon via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I'll be moving my C 37 "Trinity" from San Francisco to Oceanside (near
> San Diego) in November.
> I have heard interesting "tales" about sailing the California coast and am
> doing my best to prepare.
> However, I have not owned my boat for very long (less than a year now) and
> I am new to the C brand.
> Is there anything I should be aware of in terms of how she might perform
> or behave on the trip or anything I
> should be wary of? Do those of you who have made extended voyages or
> cruised CA have any advice?
> This trip will be about 400 mi, by my calculations an she seems a quality
> boat and I feel it will be a good adventure in coastal cruising.
>
> Thank you in advance!
>
> Fair Winds
>
> Jim :-)
>
> --
> Jim Eagon [K6JFE]
>
> I'd rather be sailing!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List toilet lubrication

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  Great advice.
Fred

On Sep 30, 2016 3:01 PM, "LKL via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Marine Toilet Maintenance by Don Casey - BoatUS
> <http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/marine-toilet-maintenance.asp>
>
>
>
> Maybe this will help.  I have been following his advice and so far no
> problems.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
>
> Finesse
>
> LF 39
>
>
>
> *From:* Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, September 30, 2016 4:25 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard
> *Subject:* Stus-List toilet lubrication
>
> I've been using cooking oil to lubricate my manual Jabsco toilet.   In
> time it gums up and needs to be cleaned to keep the pump working smoothly.
> What are others using to avoid it gumming up?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List toilet lubrication

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I've been using cooking oil to lubricate my manual Jabsco toilet.   In time
it gums up and needs to be cleaned to keep the pump working smoothly. What
are others using to avoid it gumming up?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List RC issues.

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Give the rc boat a throwout.  Make each fleet required to provide a
committee.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
Portland, Or

On Sep 28, 2016 5:22 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Give RC boat advantageous points in series
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Charlie
> Nelson via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: September 28, 2016 6:07 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Stus-List RC issues.
>
> I am looking for ideas on various ways to encourage club members to serve
> as Race Committee and Mark Boat personnel.
>
> Currently, our Club Racing Chairperson cajoles, begs, etc. club members
> who race to serve periodically as the PRO, RC and MB crew. Since we have a
> one design Sunfish fleet,
> they often provide this for the PHRF racers and the PHRF racers
> reciprocate for the Sunfish races.
>
> If a PHRF racer misses a PHRF race for which he/she serves as a RC, SB, MB
> or PRO, their score that day is the same as their average race score for
> the series so they do not suffer
> in scoring or qualification for the series when they serve. Of course this
> does not provide an incentive to serve.
>
> One local club has pretty regular RC and SB crew.
>
> Another,without that luxury, rotates it among the PHRF racers, awarding a
> 2nd place to the boat who serves and limits this service to
> one race day per series. Basically they induce racers to serve with at
> least a couple of 2nd places that they might not otherwise receive.
>
> Some ideas we are considering include getting an iron clad commitment to
> serve as PRO/RC from each racer which commits them to do it on a specific
> race day and requires them to find a replacement
> crew if something comes up that requires them to bow out. If they cannot
> find a replacement or trade dates with someone, then the racing that day
> would be cancelled.
>
> We are also considering giving a modest 'stipend' to encourage some club
> members to consider taking this on for our ~ 10 race day 2017 PHRF season
> (6 race Saturdays and 2 weekend regattas).
>
> I prefer to give something to those who serve (2nd place on their service
> day, free/reduced series or regatta entry fees, etc.) since it basically
> impossible to 'punish' a volunteer club member who doesn't show up
> to 'do his duty'. I also believe a carrot is more effective than a stick!
>
> Any list suggestions/examples would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/cb
>
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Open CPN

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I am looking for what others think about the open CPN navigation program.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Stus-List Vhb tape

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Where can I get 3M vhb tape in Portland, Or?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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