Re: Stus-List 3D File

2018-09-05 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Rob,

There are easier and faster ways to do this - but if you come up dry and
want to try to make a 3D model of YOUR boat, and you were able to take
pictures from numerous angles (while out of the water, perhaps - a drone
might be a good way to do this) I'd be happy to run it through a
photogrammetry stack for you.  The best results come from photos taken in
overcast conditions to minimize specular reflections, and even then aren't
perfect.  But it's still pretty amazing stuff.  I think I'll have to try it
with my boat this winter. Probably need about 100 pictures to get good
coverage.

Bill Hall
1985 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Wed, Sep 5, 2018 at 11:21 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As a new owner of a 34 (38 years old) I want to try to create a 3D file of
> the boat . . . . .
>
> Does anyone out there have anything already that is close to a C 34  . .
> . . ?
>
> I can manipulate a different boat if anyone has one that is similar  . . .
> .
>
> I’m using a Program called MicroStation, but I can import most types of 3D
> files  . . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> *Rob Ball*
> Chief Design Engineer  Tel
> 508-995-9711
>
> [image: http://www.edsonintl.com/signature/image001.gif]
>
> Edson International
>
> Email: r...@edsonintl.com [image: Edson -
> Home] 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

2018-08-02 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
When I was in a similar situation due to current, I found one of these very
helpful

https://search.defender.com/?expression=Line+catcher

It let me quickly get a spring line on without messing with boat hooks or
leaving the boat.

Bill


On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 1:05 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Been reading these responses and will add my experience to the discussion.
>
> I have a C 26, which is lighter than most of the boats mentioned in this
> thread
> so it doesn't carry as far, which makes my situation a bit easier. My slip
> faces north at a marina in Miami, FL and we usually have an ENE wind.
> Because it stops easily I will usually sail it back into the slip without
> using the engine, often single-handed.
>
> To make the line handling less busy I've tied a tether (out of 3/16 line)
> connecting the fore, aft, and two spring lines together at the bitter ends
> -- one set for each side The slip has a short finger pier to port and two
> pilings to starboard.
>
> When casting off I simply drop the lines into the water as I back out.
> Then when I return, I can grab the closest line on whichever side seems
> best with a boat hook and have all lines in hand at once. This allows me to
> slow the boat if needed, or pull it foreword if necessary, and keep it
> centered against the wind using either an actual dockline or the tether
> line as needed. Then after tying the first I just walk around the boat and
> cleat them using markers on the lines to get the length right.
>
> It's a bit unconventional, but in three years of doing this I've only
> embarrassed myself a couple times.
>
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26 -- Whisper
> Coconut Grove, FL
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

2018-07-15 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
We had luck with welding. Get the right rod - LLDPE I think it is. Practice
a little with a heat gun and it turns out great.

Bill - 1985 c 37 starfire

On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 9:03 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture
> in the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other
>  1981 C 36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see
> if welding the polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or
> other manufacture tank ordered?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Brad Crawford
>
> C 36
>
> “Dora Pearl”
>
> Seattle
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?

2018-05-17 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
When I got my boat 5-6 years ago, it had a stack pack already.  I really
like it and have just taken it in to have the cover reworked. They
recommended switching to the cradle cover arrangement you have (mine is/was
the older version where the sail has the bolt rope and the cover is sewn to
the sail).
What works for me is:
1) I have the cover up all the way when dropping the sail
2) I have a hunk of rope about 6-8' long on the zipper.  When opened up and
sailing, the rope goes into a little velcro-closed bag on the boom so it
doesn't whack anybody.
3) With my nice old comfy bedsheets of a sail, it requires very little
stuffing.  Usually just a tad at the mast where the last couple cars
sometimes hang up or bunch on the sail.
4) Yes, I leave the cover on unless I am using the spinnaker pole
5) Drop the halyard as quickly as you can, making sure it's free to run.
Momentum really helps once most of the way down. If the halyard gets stuck
on something it takes a little more stuffing / pulling to get the sail down
the last 5-10 feet.

I hope you figure out something and can make it work with your stiff main!

Bill
C 37 Starfire

On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 11:27 AM, Tony Wroblewski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am new to the stack pack family - just installed this week. Ours is
> a Doyle Cradle Cover (Doyle Stack Pack not attached to the sail).  Mast had
> a Tides track.  The sail is also new a North 3Di and very stiff.  I could
> use any tips on handling this system because I'm having trouble getting the
> sail into the cover enough to zip it up.  Zipper and top of cover is
> approx. 8' above the deck at the mast. Very hard to reach especially over
> the cockpit.  Have 1 step at the mast but still feel like Tarzan swinging
> from a vine when putting the sail in. It would probably help if I were 7'
> tall!
>
> Questions:
>
> (1) should the cover be fully up when dropping the sail or eased?
>
> (2) what kind of extension or line do people use on the zipper car?
> There's a you tube video of a continuous line zipper trolley that looks
> good but no info on how it's rigged.
>
> (3) is it typical to have to "stuff" the sail into the cover before
> zipping? Or is my problem just a new stiff sail?
>
> (4) can the mast cover be left in place when sailing, dropping the sail?
>
> (5) is it better to let the sail drop quickly - letting go of the halyard
> - or easing it down?
>
> (6) any other helpful hints would be appreciated.
>
>
> thanks
>
> Tony
>
> C 41 C/B #96
>
> Triumph
>
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of bwhitmore
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 17, 2018 10:56 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bwhitmore
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?
>
> Fyi, when we are sailing, we do not remove our short cover that goes
> around the mast and is zipped on both sides. The zippers are far enough
> forward that chafing the sail has never concerned me.  Zipping and
> unzipping the stack pack has been made much easier by attaching a sail tie
> to the long zipper car, as I am too short to reach up above the stack
> pack.  I also added two foldable aluminum mast steps so I can step up the
> front of the mast enough to finish the last of the zip & tuck.  I can take
> photos and post them if anyone is interested.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/16/18 7:46 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?
>
> This is what our main looks like after just dropping it, without taking
> any time to zip the cover shut or to put the separate front cover on
> (similar to Josh's setup).
>
> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vcTap2SToF8/WlARaGxmTCI/AAABqLU/8OJ_
> WtmY6JkgY7o6zOjQfjyXcRM2G92mACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2574%2BSalazar.jpg
>
> This is what it looks like zipped up and with the front cover on as well:
>
> https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U-z3eISLNhQ/WlAUw3PY9WI/AAABqMY/te2nqCik-
> GUjlHJoZvQPfRKgWtKgWLoqwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20130811_Salazar%
> 2Bat%2BBen%2BEoin%2BMarina_0030.JPG
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 16 May 2018 at 20:04, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have a sail pack custom made by my sail maker - Clark McKinney at
> Quantum Sails in Solomons, MD.  It makes packing the sail quite simple but
> be warned, the boom height can still make zipping the pack and flaking down
> the sail a bit awkward.  I shopped around to various sail makers and off
> the shelf products and finally decided on the customizations afforded by
> using a local canvas maker.  Had I done it myself with the existing lazy
> jacks my lead would have come off the mast too low and too narrow.  I have
> a tides marine strong track with 5 battons so

Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats

2018-02-09 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
This summer I discovered varnish in a spray can.  I decided to try it on my
grab rails. Two interesting differences from traditional varnish:

- Subsequent coats can be applied without sanding if done within an hour or
so.  You don't wait for it to dry completely.
- No brush marks

Has anyone else had experience with it? I thought it worked pretty well in
my test, and certainly liked the ability to get many coats done in a short
day. I look forward to seeing how it holds up over time.  It seems there
must be some downside to this!

Bill
Starfire
C 37
Ludington, MI


On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> You're not an unwanted guest.  I actually agree with your opinion to some
> degree.  I was walking piers one day and saw a Pearson 365 that belonged to
> a local sailmaker.  The varnished teak toe rails looked amazing. I asked
> him how many coats of varnish.  Answer: 23.
>
> I varnished the teak grate in Touche's head a few years back.  Applied in
> excess of 15 coats, probably more than 20.  Sanding between each coat.  It
> looks really good.
>
> Philosophically, I liken the Cetol vs varnish decision to that of Awlgrip
> vs Awlcraft 2000.  Awlgrip is harder, probably looks better longer but is
> harder to apply and repair.
>
> For me, the difference is in the sanding between coats.  If you want
> really great varnish, you need to diligently sand between coats.  Cetol
> does not require sanding between coats.  Apllying a filler to the bare teak
> prior to varnish is another difference.
>
> Interested in results and experiences with Awlwood.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Feb 9, 2018 9:11 AM, "Dave Godwin via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Consider me the unwanted guest at the party on this thread but I won’t
>> use Cetol. A few reasons. Years ago I redid all the teak trim on my Mako
>> 261. Fortunately the teak was just aged out. No prior coating that I could
>> determine. I sanded to bright, applied base coats of light Cetol and then
>> several coats of their Gloss. It looked okay, but not nearly as nice as a
>> good varnish job. I figured I could live with that if the maintenance was
>> substantially less than varnish.
>>
>> It didn’t turn out that way. Yes, the Cetol lasted a bit longer than
>> varnish but not enough to overcome the “look” that IMHO was not as smooth
>> and deep as varnish.
>>
>> Although I haven’t subjected my exterior teak trim on “Ronin” to the
>> outdoors yet, everything that I have re-varnished, cabin sole included, has
>> been done with AwlWood. Just from an ease of application (5/6 coats versus
>> 8-10 for regular varnish) and the deep, clear look it is worth it.
>>
>> As an aside, I have a friend with a Tartan 37 who ponied up $4,000 last
>> year to have a professional crew redo all his exterior teak with Cetol. I
>> watched the process being done in the yard near my boat. It took every bit
>> as much time as a varnish job. Yesterday I was on his boat checking it out
>> for him and I was noting the quality of the finish. Very good but nowhere
>> near as nice as a well done varnish job.
>>
>> And being the contrarian that I can be, next time I have to apply
>> AwlWood, I’ll spray.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:10 AM, David via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> So those using Cetol and putting gloss as the last two coats.   Is that
>> for looks?   Hardness?  Both?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> David F. Risch
>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C.
>> via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 7, 2018 2:18 PM
>> *To:* CnClist
>> *Cc:* Dennis C.
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak
>>
>> I used teak oil on the toe rails of my previous boat.  I religiously
>> oiled them every few months.  After a few months, they looked like crap.
>>
>> On Touche' I use Cetol.  Five coats Cetol Marine followed by three coats
>> Cetol Gloss.  Then a coat of Cetol gloss twice a year.  Over ten years in
>> the Louisiana sun and still looking pretty good.
>>
>> I seen dock neighbors use Bristol, teak oil, Semco, etc.  For my money
>> and time, it's Cetol.  However, I'd be tempted to look hard at Awlwood.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Feb 7, 2018 10:47 AM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to
>> refinish it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was
>> wondering if anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking
>> for recommendations.
>>
>> Brien Sadler
>> S/V TAZ
>> C 35-3
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for

Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

2017-10-04 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I used less than a bottle to go around my 37.
I think it depends on how much butyl sealant is left in there / how many
voids there are.  Where there's a gap, it'll keep flowing in. On my toe
rails, it went in only a little before pooling at the edge of the toe rail.

On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 1:29 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> Follow-up question: a bottle of this stuff looks small.  How many will I
> need to do the toe rails (both sides) of a 42 (approximately)?
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 04, 2017 9:37 AM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak
>
> It will get sucked under the rail by capillary action.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 8:22 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not having use Captain Tolley’s, how do you get it to flow under the toe
>> rail?
>>
>> *From:* robert via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 04, 2017 8:20 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* robert 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toe rail leak
>>
>> I have done the same thing with Captain Tolley's liquid sealant both on
>> the toe rail(s) and I also do it on the wooden hand rails on the coach
>> roof.   When I did the handrails for the first few times, the liquid would
>> run under them and disappear.after a few applications, the liquid must
>> have filled all the cavities as it would begin to run down the side of
>> coach roof indicating it could not take any more.and no leaks since
>> with minimal effort.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2017-10-03 6:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I used to tighten the toe rail bolts.  No more.  I grew more concerned
>> about squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
>>
>> Now each year or two I simply run several beads of Captain Tolley's
>> Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail / deck interface.  Cures fairly
>> quickly.  Run a bead, drink a beer.  Repeat as necessary.
>>
>> Haven't seen any significant leaks since I've been doing it.  Been
>> several years now since I adopted this practice.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the
>>> whole thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try
>>> to tighten the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each
>>> bolt and try to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten.
>>> Any other thoughts or suggestions?
>>>
>>> Christian
>>> Peer Gynt
>>> 1980 C 34
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> --
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak

2017-10-03 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I recently went on a fix-all-the-leaks initiative.  I wasn't sure whether I
might have any leaks in the toe rail, but thought I'd try Captain Tolley's
for good measure after reading your previous post about it Dennis.  Really
neat stuff.  If I had leaks there, I'm pretty sure I don't now.
Bill


On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 5:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to tighten the toe rail bolts.  No more.  I grew more concerned
> about squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
>
> Now each year or two I simply run several beads of Captain Tolley's
> Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail / deck interface.  Cures fairly
> quickly.  Run a bead, drink a beer.  Repeat as necessary.
>
> Haven't seen any significant leaks since I've been doing it.  Been several
> years now since I adopted this practice.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Christian Planton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the
>> whole thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try
>> to tighten the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each
>> bolt and try to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten.
>> Any other thoughts or suggestions?
>>
>> Christian
>> Peer Gynt
>> 1980 C 34
>>
>>
>> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
>> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
>> address plant...@wiltonps.org.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heaters

2017-09-20 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Thanks Dave. Looks like you've got a lot of stuff in there! My batteries
are elsewhere but we're definitely measuring before buying.

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 7:51 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> Keep in mind that you may not be able to drop the Isotherm hot water
> heater into the original Raritan spot underneath the quarter-berth locker.
> I did some significant modifications when I added my Isotherm (non-SPA
> model) as an upgrade.
>
> New location
> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/new-hot-water-heater.html>
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
> On Sep 19, 2017, at 7:16 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think you will be happy with the Isotherm.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah LF39
>
>  Original message 
> From: William Hall via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 9/19/17 12:37 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: William Hall <wh...@alum.mit.edu>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heaters
>
> Hey, those look pretty good.
> Good timing - I had just ordered a replacement raritan heater - the
> original seems to have rusted out - but looks like the order didn't go
> through. I think I'll get one of these instead. Thanks!
> Bill Hall
> Starfire, 1985 C 37
>
> On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If I ever install a water heater on Touche', it will be an Isotemp SPA
>> model.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with
>> heat exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat
>> exchanger.  I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800
>> dollars or a new Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's
>> experience in this area may be???  Would appreciate any feedback.
>>
>> Glenn Gambel
>> Wind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
>>
>> ___
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
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>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
>
> --
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
> ___
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Water heaters

2017-09-19 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Hey, those look pretty good.
Good timing - I had just ordered a replacement raritan heater - the
original seems to have rusted out - but looks like the order didn't go
through. I think I'll get one of these instead. Thanks!
Bill Hall
Starfire, 1985 C 37

On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If I ever install a water heater on Touche', it will be an Isotemp SPA
> model.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sep 18, 2017 11:28 AM, "Glenn Gambel via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am contemplating replacing my 6 gallon Raritan hot water heater with
> heat exchanger with an Atwood/Whale 6 gallon hot water heater with heat
> exchanger.  I could get a new Raritan for in the neighborhood of 800
> dollars or a new Atwood for around 300 dollars.  Wonder what other's
> experience in this area may be???  Would appreciate any feedback.
>
> Glenn Gambel
> Wind N Spirits, 1981 C 36
>
> ___
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wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Sailing instrument updating

2016-09-21 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Dennis,
One of my spies watched your last attempt. It looks like you've got a ways
to go. Let us know when you've made more progress.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-_Tg13ozOU


On Wed, Sep 21, 2016 at 9:34 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just read where a group of hackers took over a Tesla S and made it back
> up.  I am working on hacking Raymarine and Garmin instrument and navigation
> devices.  Soon I will be able to control your boat.  :)
>
> Anonymous Sailor
>
>
> (aka Dennis C.)
>
> ___
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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

2016-08-30 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
On occasion, someone bumps our autopilot and manages to engage it.
Sometimes a curious little kid.  I'm sure glad it's within reach of the
helm when that happens.

On Tue, Aug 30, 2016 at 4:38 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Danny — if you put the pilot into standby, you’d really want to be within
> reach of the wheel, I’d think…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 30, 2016, at 3:31 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I can't help but wonder, if setting an autopilot is so you can leave the
> helm for short periods of time, why is the control better at the helm?  you
> would think that being able to adjust from in front of the helm would have
> some benefit...  I know it is just my ignorance speaking but, I'm just
> curious as to the benefits of one location over the other.  Especially if
> you have a compatible plotter at the helm and can make some adjustments (I
> know it lacks some functionality through the plotter), would it not be
> somewhat redundant?  Not that redundancy is necessarily a bad thing...
>
> Danny
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

2016-06-07 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Interesting. I'd always learned that rowboats, canoes and the like had the
right of way over sail, motor, etc, at least when meeting in open water
free of obstructions.  That usually seems to make sense, as a sailboat with
a decent breeze can usually avoid the paddler easily.

Here's a reference supporting this general interpretation:
http://newboatbuilders.com/boating/navrules.html . I'd imagine opposing
viewpoints can come up with opposing references.

The example Jonathan brings up is a situation where the sailboat is
constrained and the paddler should try to give way.  Knowledgeable paddlers
know to stay out of the way of boats in the channel, just as we sailors
know to stay out of the way of freighters!  Actually, there's also
reference in Dennis' link to similar situations, both "vessels constrained
by their draft" and rule 9, narrow channels.

This topic of sail vs paddle reminds me of a number of incidents from my
days on the sailing team in college.  We raced dinghies on the Charles
River in Cambridge / Boston, which was also the home of quite a bit of
human powered traffic including rowing shells. Shells are very fast, but
very slow to turn, especially the eights that were often out practicing.
We were told to stay out of their way, but on occasion during a drifter
there wasn't much we could do, and the shells had to avoid us since we
couldn't avoid them.

In one of the first regattas where I had just started to figure out how to
do well, I managed to lead around the last leeward mark and thought I had
the race wrapped up, heading into the finish.  Approaching the finish, an
eight that had decided to row through our course realized (probably because
of all the yelling from other sailors) that they could have picked a better
place to go.  They decided to turn around, and in the process completely
blocked the finish line, overlapping both finish marks with their long hull
just as I arrived.  As the first one there, there was nothing to do but
wait and guess which end of the line was going to open up first.
Unfortunately I guessed wrong and lost quite a few places.   In hindsight
it seems pretty funny - they couldn't have timed or placed their turn worse
had they tried.

Bill
C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI



On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of
> vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel
> belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In
> general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go
> where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled
> vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give
> way to all other classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and
> careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in
> sticking to the middle of a channel!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't
> know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't
> know either.
>
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row
> ashore or to neighboring boats.
>
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov:
>
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights.
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but,
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special
> circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source:
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
>
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

2016-03-01 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I went the splitter route with good results.  Works a lot better than the
deck-mounted antenna that came with the boat, both for reception and for
not being in the way.

Bill Hall
'85 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 4:04 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a car antenna, fully extended, parked in the space between the hull
> and the nav station liner. Works well enough for my needs.
> If you want to use masthead, you may want to check out the Shakespeare
> antenna splitter and utilize the existing VHF antenna.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 1 March 2016 at 12:29, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Quick survey:  What are y'all using for FM antenna?  I have Bluetooth,
>> Auxiliary inputs, iPad, GoFree (B Chartplotter), marina WiFi, Pandora,
>> and nice, new speakers.  Wired for sound, I brag...
>>
>> But I want to listen to good ol' FM radio sometimes, and have issues with
>> the single line antenna output stuffed into the back of my electro-locker.
>> Seems in the UP of Michigan, radio is sorta sparse, but pretty good!!  Top
>> of mast seems optimal, but unsure of space and interference???  What and
>> where are you mounting something and getting best reception??
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> Morning Sky
>> C 35-3
>> Straits area...
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
>


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

2015-10-14 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Which side of your wife is her non-working side?

Sorry, that was off topic.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will
> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as
> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to
> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not
> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>
> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional
> although I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase
> the shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is
> really going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini
> needs to stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The
> PO had a complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as
> they restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going
> down to check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me
> a number to text them to.
>
>
>
> Ciao
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *davepulaski
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* davepulaski
> *Subject:* Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>
>
>
> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger
> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners
> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures!
>
>
>
> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>
>
>
> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the
> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with
> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>
>
>
> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin
> top.  Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger
> side panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch
> handle.
>
>
>
> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much
> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is
> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the
> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any
> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>
>
>
> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back
> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my
> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY
> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead
> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops
> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit
> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the
> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;
>  not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit
> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical.
>
>
>
> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated!
>
>
>
> -Dave
>
> ___ Email address:
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>
>
>

Bill
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Re: Stus-List water missing from somewhere

2015-09-26 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Do you folks suggest replacing the 30 year-old plumbing lines just because
of the life forms you suspect may be growing in there? Or some other reason?
When I got my boat, my freshwater system smelled like the best parts of a
swamp, and the filters were all plugged up with biological goop.  I went
through a number of treatments, bleach, all kinds of stuff.  It actually
seemed to work pretty well, everything smells and tastes fine now, although
I'm sure there are probably some nooks and crannies still harboring life.

Bill Hall
1985 C 37
Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Fri, Sep 25, 2015 at 1:36 PM, Paul Eugenio via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> If your water lines are the original grey tubing then replacing the lines
> are a good idea.  I would also recommend replacing the fill hose(they get
> pretty funky and are cheap to replace).   Take the time to inspect the
> water tanks. I found a crack midway up on the tank in the V-birth.  I
> removed this tank and now use the V-birth space for extra storage.   I am
> in the process of replacing all of my lines with Pex.
>
> If you have not yet, check out Wally’s site:
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/index.htm
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
> On Sep 24, 2015, at 9:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>  It might ne time to replace all water lines anyway.?
>
>
>Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 hull #4just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>


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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names

2015-09-22 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
My previous boat was named Sweet Dream when I got her.  I didn't care for
the name but never changed it.  My crew wanted to name the dinghy Wet
Dream, and occasionally used that call sign on VHF 13.
My "new" boat, Starfire, was named by the original owner around 1985.  I
suspect it was named after a comic strip with a scantily clad heroine from
the time, but the owner who named it wouldn't admit that.
Bill Hall
1985 C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There's a boat in my area named "Wet Dreams".   Please don't ever name a
> boat this.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Sep 22, 2015 6:00 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C 27...and the
>> brand. The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was
>> called Vatican.
>>
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My first boat, C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold
>>> Flying Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still
>>> carries that name.
>>>
>>> My new boat, C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.
>>> Talk about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
>>> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
>>> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
>>> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
>>> them of home.
>>>
>>> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
>>> amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
>>>
>>> Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
>>> probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
>>> Millions of kids watch him in cartoons.  He's carved into every early
>>> Buddhist/Hindu temple across Asia.  I just happen to be on the wrong side
>>> of the world now and I guess I spent to much time in Asia.
>>>
>>> Oddly enough, Hanuman is also the namesake of one of the J Class
>>> yachts.  The owner has spinnaker graphics similar to the tattoo on my leg.
>>> :)  Fortunately, I had the tattoo longer so I can say he stole my idea..lol
>>>   It's the Khmer version of Hanuman carved into the the temples of
>>> Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Burma/Myanmar.
>>>
>>> Anyway, the Ramayana is one of those books everyone should read, or at
>>> least try to, once in their life.
>>>
>>> I hope I didn't put anyone to sleep with this tale
>>>
>>> Rob
>>> C 30 MKII
>>> HANUMAN
>>> Noank, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone  +401 965 5260
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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>
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>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0

2015-09-21 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Thanks Fred.
I held out until a new panel popped up on eBay.  Plugged it in and
everything works again. Whew!
Bill
C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI

On Thu, Aug 27, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill — maybe try a call to these guys:
>
> Inverter Service Center
> 102 SCT Drive
> White House, TN 37188
>
> 800-621-1271
>
> http://inverterservicecenter.com
>
> See if they can help you diagnose/repair this.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 27, 2015, at 9:03 AM, William Hall via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> My boat came with this nicely installed Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0
> inverter/charger.  The thing worked great but is now producing a "memory
> error" message on the remote display, and won't invert or charge any more.
> Xantrex no longer provides parts for it.
>
> Does anyone out there have one that failed in a different way?  I'd be
> interested in parts to see if I can get some combination working.  I don't
> use it enough to merit putting in a new unit.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Hall
> Starfire
> 1985 C 37
> Ludington, MI
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

2015-09-02 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
There's Centerboard and Fixed Keel versions...

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One, as far as I know. The 37/40's are not really 37's at all.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 September 2015 at 12:40, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Curious:
>>
>> How many types of C 37s are there?
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> ___
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Stus-List Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0

2015-08-27 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Hi List,

My boat came with this nicely installed Xantrex Pro-sine 2.0
inverter/charger.  The thing worked great but is now producing a memory
error message on the remote display, and won't invert or charge any more.
Xantrex no longer provides parts for it.

Does anyone out there have one that failed in a different way?  I'd be
interested in parts to see if I can get some combination working.  I don't
use it enough to merit putting in a new unit.

Thanks,
Bill Hall
Starfire
1985 CC 37
Ludington, MI
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Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

2015-08-26 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I had dinner on a friend's very nice boat on Friday.  He had rigged a small
light on the bottom of the boom which lit up the cockpit very nicely.
Bill Hall
Starfire

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 8:41 PM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Earlier this year I changed out my old perko combo steaming/foredeck light
 for a marinebeam combo. The marinebeam LED is awesome, the old light really
 didn’t illuminate the foredeck at all (it was 39 years old) and the new
 light is so bright it throws shadows. the only problem I have is the new
 light is so well focused that it doesn’t light the back half of the boat at
 all so now I’m trying to decide between spreader lights or a small LED
 fixture to light the floor of the cockpit. I don’t won’t anything too
 bright so I’m almost convinced that I will install a small dimmable LED
 fixture in the cockpit to light the floor.
 James
 Delaney
 CC 38 Mk11
 Oriental, NC

 *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Wednesday, August 26, 2015 8:22 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

 Ditto. With foredeck light I don't see need for spreader lights.

 Dennis C.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 26, 2015, at 2:20 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I use a Forespar, combination bow light/deck light.  The bow light for
 motoring at night, and the deck light taking the place of actual spreader
 lights.  I they're not LED, but I rarely use either of them when not
 motoring or powered up in a moorage.

 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR

 This has been bothering me all summer, there are wires hanging out of my
 mast just under the spreaders (first set) it's obvious that someone has
 removed the original spreader lights. I've been looking online at the
 multitude of LED spreader lights available, and am wondering just how
 useful they are, especially when they are so incredibly bright. What do you
 have? Do you use them? Are they only used when at the slip? Would a
 spotlight or two be more useful up there? I think I saw a red/white combo
 light somewhere, would that be a better choice?
 Thanks
 Brad
 1985 CC 33 MKII Pulse
 Sent, miraculously through cyberspace,
 from my iPad!


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Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

2015-08-20 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Slime maybe.  But I used to get lots worse than slime (barnacles, hairy
goop, and a whole ecosystem of who knows what) whereas I'm not seeing that
now.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2015 at 12:05 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 The fresh water kills all the saltwater organisms, but you are right,the
 boat should float slightly lower since fresh is lighter than salt!!

 I’ve had boats in fresh water though and the slime grows just about as
 fast until you take a sail in the salt.

 Rick
 Paikea 37+

  On Aug 19, 2015, at 8:13 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  in fresh water your boat sits lower.   ;-)
 
  Leslie.
 
  
  On Wed, 8/19/15, William Hall via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners
  To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: William Hall wh...@alum.mit.edu
  Date: Wednesday, August 19, 2015, 7:33 AM
 
  My CC
  37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy
  to get to.  The only issue is that between batteries,
  inverter, radome etc, the boat sits a little low in the
  stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just above the
  bottom paint.  My solution was to move to
  freshwater!
  BillStarfire1985
  CC 37Now in Ludington, MI
  On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at
  10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  wrote:
  I put two extra batteries on a
  shelf I build in the starboard cockpit locker against the
  forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
  those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much
  attention.
  Bob
  On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick
  Brass via CnC-List wrote:
  I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to
  NC, and along the way we are making up a project list. The
  boat will be used for live aboard cruising.
 
  The current setup has one new
  start battery as bank 1, and two old batteries in parallel
  as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to be
  replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to
  maximize the AHR capacity and try to increase the number of
  batteries in the house bank.
 
  The start battery is in the locker under the
  front half of the quarter berth. The house batteries are on
  a shelf on the port side of the engine compartment (and are
  a bitch to get to). There is no room for more batteries on
  the shelf.
 
  So where have
  you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
  of you house bank?
 
  Rick
  Brass
  Jim Schwartz
  s/v Sea
  Ya
  1983 LF38 Hull # 105
 
  Sent from my iPad
  ___
 
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  unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
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  Bob Boyer
  S/V
  Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
  email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
  There is
  nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
  simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth
  Grahame
 
 
 
  ___
 
 
 
  Email address:
 
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
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  go to the bottom of page at:
 
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  --
  William D. Hall, Ph.D.
  617 620
  9078 (c)
  wh...@alum.mit.edu
 
  -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

2015-08-19 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
My CC 37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy to get
to.  The only issue is that between batteries, inverter, radome etc, the
boat sits a little low in the stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just
above the bottom paint.  My solution was to move to freshwater!

Bill
Starfire
1985 CC 37
Now in Ludington, MI

On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I put two extra batteries on a shelf I build in the starboard cockpit
 locker against the forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
 those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much attention.

 Bob

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

 I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to NC, and along the way we are making
 up a project list. The boat will be used for live aboard cruising.

 The current setup has one new start battery as bank 1, and two old
 batteries in parallel as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to
 be replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to maximize the
 AHR capacity and try to increase the number of batteries in the house bank.

 The start battery is in the locker under the front half of the quarter
 berth. The house batteries are on a shelf on the port side of the engine
 compartment (and are a bitch to get to). There is no room for more
 batteries on the shelf.

 So where have you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
 of you house bank?

 Rick Brass
 Jim Schwartz
 s/v Sea Ya
 1983 LF38 Hull # 105

 Sent from my iPad
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 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame


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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake on CC 30

2015-05-28 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Seems to me that if the boat normally sails stern-low, it moves the center
of effort aft and has the same effect as raking the mast on a level boat...

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 12:51 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I think the initial tuning of about 8 of rake, usually done by hanging
 a weight on the main halyard, is a reference assuming the boat is
 sitting level in the water. At least a few of the CC 30-1 I have
 looked at are stern heavy, some by a couple of inches. I suspect
 that will add some to the rake that would not be there if the boot
 strip and water surface were parallel.

 Under sail with crew on board the boat may sit properly. Given that
 people have reported noticing a change in weather helm from even
 a modest adjustment of rake the error in initial tuning by having the
 stern 2 low might be significant.


 A couple of weeks ago while out for practice starts we flew a heavy
 wind #1 ( a flatter cut ) and full main. Winds were 18 - 22 kts, gusts
 to 30. It was the wrong amount of sail to have up but the helm was
 fine. Eased the vang a bit and left some twist in the main, kept the
 #1 flat.

 With the boat level I have about 6 of rake.


 Michael Brown
 Windburn
 CC 30-1


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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?

2015-05-12 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Sure looks like a crack in the pictures.  Try a dye penetrant perhaps if
you can't tell for sure?

On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 9:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi All,

 I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is
 fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself.
 Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought

 Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and
 all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could
 replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the
 spreaders and rod rigging.

 So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane
 time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud
 to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images
 inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end:


 Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes ..
 which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm
 perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did.

 Thoughts?
 I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against
 it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on
 my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just
 caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this
 was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our
 short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap.
 Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no
 response.


 Thanks,
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32

 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg
 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg





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617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Stus-List BG parts

2014-11-12 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I have a BG Hydra 2000 system.  On Monday I had what will, sadly, probably
be my last sail since we've moved to Cincinnati.  As luck would have it, a
bird appears to have visited and broken the vane on the wind direction
sensor at the top of the mast is broken.  The electronics all seem to work,
but with only the heavy part of the vane (no fin) it now just points to the
low side of the boat.

Does anyone know whether these parts are available anywhere?

Thanks,
Bill

Starfire 1985 CC 37

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Re: Stus-List 1985 Cc37 fs in Stamford ct

2014-10-23 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Finally got to this. Do you think these photos are better?
Any listers have advice on what the right pricing ought to be?
http://tinyurl.com/o3zuapc
Thanks,
Bill in Cincinnati

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 10:23 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Nice boat Bill but do yourself a favour and have someone with a decent
 camera re-take the photos.

 Those ones are horrible and don’t do the boat justice.



 Good luck with the sale.



 Rick Taillieu

 Nemesis

 '75 CC 25  #371

 Shearwater Yacht Club

 Halifax, NS.







 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 D. Hall via CnC-List
 *Sent:* September-26-14 22:48
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List 1985 Cc37 fs in Stamford ct



 All,

 It's with a sad heart I list our boat. I bought her just 2 years ago and
 racked up some big yard bills, thinking we'd have her forever. Now we're
 moving to Cincinnati for work and it just doesn't make sense to manage a
 boat from afar. So I'm listing her for what I paid for her, about half of
 what I have into her. A really sweet boat. My 3 year old misses her almost
 as much as I do.



 The listing is here:




 http://m.yachtworld.com/mobile/boats/1985/C-%26-C-37-2764228/Lower/CT/United-States



 I've really enjoyed the list, been a big help sorting out the boat. And
 for just two years the bankers might laugh at me but I loved every minute
 if it.



 I hope you all keep enjoying your CC's!



 Bill Hall

 Starfire

 1985 CC 37

 Stamford, CT

 617 620 9078


 --

 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4025/8283 - Release Date: 09/27/14

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Re: Stus-List Up-sizing boats

2014-08-19 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
I have a 1985 cc 37 I bought 2 years ago and was planning to keep forever,
but we just accepted job offers in Cincinnati and are moving inland.  I've
really enjoyed sailing her, and my 3 year-old loves nothing more than to go
sleep on the boat.  I haven't listed it yet or taken pictures or anything,
still in denial. Almost tempted to store it somewhere but I should probably
sell it, who knows whether we'll ever be back to the water.

Bill



On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 11:14 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I anticipate being where you are sometime in the not too distant future so
 I
 will be interested in this discussion. I have already hit my head too many
 times and we have not even spent a night on our boat yet. I don't
 unfortunately have much to contribute so I will sit back and read.

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
 Haughey via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 11:01 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Up-sizing boats

 Hi all,

 I'm currently in a Viking 33. I am 6'-0 tall and I cannot stand up in most
 of the boat and I'm tired of hitting my head. The wife and I are starting
 to
 cruise more and find that after 3 days on board we NEED to get off. I love
 how this boat sails! she handles beautifully and has a very slippery hull,
 deep keel and points like nobody's business! However we really want some
 creature comforts. Like, at least a swim platform, I think this can be
 added
 to the right boat, A stand-up shower and a usable galley. A large cockpit
 is
 also on the want list for entertaining.

 We don't race but we like to go fast.

 My thoughts are to either buy a suitable older boat and have her modified
 to
 what we want or go for a new boat. We like the Jeanneau 349 but my fear is
 the quality of the new boats and the composites they use. I love the solid
 hull on my viking. The wife really loves the light open feeling of the
 newer
 boats and I'm only even considering them for her sake.

 I'd like to start a conversation on this and hopefully come to a
 conclusion.
 I feel that a new boat will depreciate quickly and a refurb of an older
 boat
 will offer a better quality built boat overall and the value will remain
 largely the same.

 I have, until now, rehabbed 2 boats from the brink of the crusher. Although
 I enjoyed the process and have a strong sense of accomplishment, I don't
 want to do it again. I want to find a boat, have the work contracted out by
 a reputable yard and end up in a turn key situation. I'm getting a bit
 older
 and just want a boat, in great shape, that I can simply maintain and sail
 more than work on.

 I'm considering looking on the great lakes for a nice freshwater boat.  I
 think and older freshwater boat will potentially be in better shape than a
 newer saltwater vessel.  I think the added cost of the shipping or extended
 cruising vacation could really be worth it!!

 I'm looking forward to all the tips, suggestions and insights!!

 I guess someone is going to get a really nice V33 in Lolita!

 Danny

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617 620 9078 (c)
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Re: Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

2014-05-22 Thread William Hall via CnC-List 
Somebody must've flushed really hard??


On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 9:05 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Got love this one:

 
 http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
 

 Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

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William D. Hall, Ph.D.
203 653 2886 (o)
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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