I just add diesel from the top when needed, you loose very little when changing
the filter. As has been said on the list, a primer pump is another place for a
leak and I have not needed it so far. While the flow rates are overkill, it is
the smallest I could find that has an easily changeable
I would consider a pump with variable rate - it won't start/stop frequently and
does not need an accumulator. Jabsco and Sureflow both have a model.
Marek
1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa ON
Sent from my Android-based can on a string
Original message
From: John and Maryann Read
I’ve had the fuse holder fail on those switches! Bypass the fuse to test
it
On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:40 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Rob,
>
> Did your pump work on "Manual" in the past? Meaning it is wired
> correctly? If so, the "Manual" position on the
It sounds like the 500 is the way to go. I agree on not having the fire
shield. You can actually buy the 500 with no shield and a 30 µm filter
installed (500FG30) and that was my target. Defender doesn’t sell it, but
other vendors do.
Rob,
There should be three wires coming off the bilge pump. One is ground, one is
for auto and the other is for manual (they should be color-coded based on your
operating manual — they may even have “flags” on them. Check the voltage on the
manual one when the switch is on. It may be the
Well the 40 year old OEM freshwater pump gave up the ghost. Actually the
pressure switch. It still pumps fine but without the switch to shut it off
it trips the breaker.
Pump is a PAR / ITT JABSCO 36970-1000, 2.8 GPM. Has been out of production
for years. Some internet search show a switch
We put a Racor 500 on Perception, located under the sink for easy access,
replaces a spin on which was nothing but issues changing the filters and
priming. We had a lot of ‘stuff’ in the diesel fuel when we bought Perception,
and went thru a lot of filters in the early days.
Paul Fountain
Auto bilge pumps usually have 3 wires. A ground and then one positive to use if
you want it to be auto or one positive to connect if you want it to be manual.
You pick what function you want and wire it that way. My guess is you wired it
for auto by mistake? I’ve done that!
_
From Dean’s
Dumb question on my part as I never had a Racor type filter previously
installed on my boat.
500FG has no priming pump that I can see on the pictures. I suppose
this is because one can just pour fuel from top after removing the top
cover?
My engine is 2GM20 and from the flow rate
Hi Rob,
Did your pump work on "Manual" in the past? Meaning it is wired
correctly? If so, the "Manual" position on the switch just bypasses the
float switch so there must be a break in that circuit from the switch to
the pump somewhere, perhaps a corroded connection. Start with a
voltmeter (or
Missing some info in my choice below - I agree with Andy’s comments about the shortcomings of the spin-on types which are known to be a PITA, however my installation location could not tidily accommodate a larger filter - also it’s worth checking not only the height of the filter but the required
My electric bilge pump has 3 settings, Auto (with a float to activate),
Off, and Manual. I turned on the Manual setting and the pump didn't
come on. It does work in the Auto settingif I fill the bilge to
lift the float or raise it by hand, the pump works.
Since and I am no electrician,
Dean
The Manual operation always worked so it was wired correctly I will
attempt to check the Manual connection.
Rob
On 2021-10-17 11:09 a.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
Auto bilge pumps usually have 3 wires. A ground and then one positive
to use if you want it to be auto or one
I think the coaming needs to be rebedded. There are screws from
underneath. They may be partially obstructed by the bulkhead. Remove the
screws from all four sides. Remove the coaming. Clean the sealing
surfaces and rebed it with LifeSeal or equivalent.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Another one to consider is the Johnson variable rate. I hadn't noticed them
before, so they may be fairly new on the market. I have tried the above
pumps, and also a Marco, and none of them worked properly for me. I got one
of the Johnsons this spring, and it has worked flawlessly. The other ones,
"So before you send the wrong message to the list – check and make sure it
wasn’t meant for your girlfriend"
Or vice versa! ... Thinking of a recent thread on FB about as-designed
displacement vs. Ioad cell readings on haul-out "Yeah, once we got her
up in the slings she weighed WAY more
Come on man. You know how to fix that. If it all worked before then some
connection is broke now. I can help you with that come spring launch time
On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:14 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dean
>
> The Manual operation always worked so it was
Second the Johnson pump. Went through 3 jabsco pumps under warranty before I
was told about the Johnson pump. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall
39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA
Original message From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Date: 10/17/21 14:51
yet another question for experienced sailors:
today I was winterizing my boat, I found sitting water in my compartment
under the cockpit storage, not a lot, but there was some. my boat was
already out of the water. I found it actually came from the spot in the
picture below:
I going to guess it is coming from the hinge for the lazzerette. Doug Mountjoy
sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA
Original message From: G Gao via CnC-List
Date: 10/17/21 16:22 (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List
Cc: G Gao Subject: Stus-List
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