Hi folks I am using my K1 to drive the tube PA in an old TS520 and it works
great but I'm using manual keying of the TS520. I have been reading the
various posts here on keying an amp from the 8R line of the K2. I want to
do the same thing on the K1. I figure that if I use the 6A and 6R line
Hi, all concerned:
I used Ameritron QSK5's with TS-850's and NCL2000's at the kw level. No
problems whatsoever.
Now, my K2/100 03497 is keyed by a Titan 425, which in turn is keyed by an
Econokeyer. No problems whatsoever.
If any one is interested in the 2 QSK5 boxes and manuals, I'm
In a message dated 1/5/2005 2:58:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, Daniel Reynolds
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I think that as long as there is QRP, Elecraft, kit building, and ham radio in
general - there will always be CW (unless they one day decide to make CW
illegal.
I hope you're right. I also
Roy:
At 07:12 PM 1/6/05, you wrote:
Is it possible to key the K2/100 for CW QSK operation with the Alpha 99. If
so, how should the delay be set in the K2. I would rather key the K2 first
rather than keying the Alpha 99 and running the keying line back to the K2.
Roy Morris W4WFB
However
Just for test. SRI
I0SKK
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It's that 50 volt 20 amp supply that's a killer!
Doug
W6JD
- Original Message -
From: Tom Mc [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Richard Haendel [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft List
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Amplifier for K2
Hi Rich
About this I can add that during 2003 CQWW DX contest, CW section, I
operated in various periods using nominal 100 mW power of my K2 Elecraft.
I measured with a Tek-466 scope on a dummy load that in 21 MHz, the actual
output RF voltage was 500 mV pp, that's equal to 0.62 mW output! I had
several
Are there any valid electro/mechanical advantages to separating the 100w amp
from the K2 (other than, of course the ability to have a K2 with internal
battery and ATU)? It appears that some minor original heat related drift issues
are all solved.but are there any other concerns? Those of
Miles per Watt is nonsense data to impress people.because nothing happens in
linear mode!!!So increasing or decreasing power by 10 times will not expand
range by 10 times..
More you go to miliwatts better will be m/W calculated ratio.
Adi
___
Hmmm ... all of us (world wide) measure wavelength in metric units.
Admittedly, the USA is converting to metric units very very slowly
(inch by inch someone once told me) but if distance per watt is going
to a measure of achievement, wouldn't we want to do it in metric units
-- Km/W? Then, when
Important is not miles or meters /W, but the fact that QRP is really
possible also for DX.
Anyway we must wait DX listen for in a Contest for example...
THen if it's in miles or km/w doesn't matter, we will go ahed anyway, we
will make a lot of QSO and Ham spirit will go ahead anyway!
Best 73
- Original Message -
From: Pierre Desjardins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: S55M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 17:39
Subject: [Elecraft] Miles per Watt
Miles per Watt is nonsense data to impress
people.because nothing happens in linear mode!!!
Not a linear behavior for
Hello,
Just a quick note.
All calendars that have been ordered as of 00:00 UTC 8 Jan. 2005 will be in
the Saturday morning mail. I plan on being at the Post Office at 8 AM.
15 Jan. is the last day to purchase a
2005 QRP Contest Calendar.
Check out:
It's all in fun, miles, the simple math, the whole bit. As I pointed
out on slashdot, it's a simpified model. Going to inverse squared is
one step closer to the physics, but it's a slippery slope. You will
want to measure the ERP in the direction used by the propagation path,
factor in the
Hi everyone.
I have been on and off the list for a while, and I have just gotten back on,
because I think I might finally be ready to get started on a K1. I have one
question for now (although, I am sure that number will increase within a month
or so. Due to limited $$$ up front, I am
Vin,
That's exactly how I did it! When I first got my K1, I was using it
with an Emtech ZM-2 tuner. It was nice; but the AT sounded so nice!
That year Santa brought it for Christmas. I built it in one night and
did the install the same evening. Talk about a piece of cake! Once
again,
I just wanted to take the opportunity to thank all of you who applied
for the Elecraft Ragchewer's Award and also took advantage of the free
Christmastime offer. In all, I had the privilege of sending out 19
certificates! If you haven't received yours yet, please be patient -
you should all
KX-1 nr 959 is out of the bag; all parts accounted for. Houston, we have
lift off!
Good job parts packer 'Christine' !!!
73 John K7FD
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The latest permutation of the K1 is rigged for easy installation and
removal of the KAT1 tuner! So you can build the K1, operate it,
and build and plug in the tuner when you are ready for it.
The power sensing network for the K1 alone is a resistive voltage
divider, there is a jumper strip (a la
I just finished the resistance check on my new KAT-100 and all looks ok. It
was a fun project to put together. Winding those large toroids is a breeze
compared to those in the K2 or KPA-100.
I am going ahead with my K2+1 (=K3?) where the KAT-100 will be an integral part
of my K2/100.
I
I'm interested in purchasing a built K1, please reply with what you have and
price.
Thanks,
Kyle
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Have a ball, John. Santa left me a KX1 too. Since I am retired, mine has
been built and it is working FB. Like you, the KX1 didn't have a single
missing part nor did the 30M and ATU options. I have to agree with you
about Christine. I found her 'fortune cookie' pieces of paper in every bag
Anyone out there with a Blue Max crimp kit?
I've used small pieces of angle iron and some vicegrips
to do this. The angle iron distributes the force on
the connector during crimping so that it isn't damaged.
Works great in a pinch (pardon the pun... :).
~Don
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