Good morning,
I'm still in the process of building my kpa100. After
my learning process concerning soldering :-) I
stumbled upon some voltages.
I'm on page 43 in the manual now and got some numbers
a bit off the given values (PS is 14V).
D13 154V
U4 -27.4V
TP1 0V
J3+ 0.1V
Are these numbers ok?
Hi all.
K2/100 #4703 is well underway as a replacement for an earlier build K2 #29xx
which I sold and have regretted ever since - in spite of replacing it with a MP
Mk5! This time it will be the Mk5 that gets sold as soon as the K2 is up and
running!
Thanks for all the interesting reading on
Gerhard,
The voltage at D13 and U4 are a bit higher than they used to be - they
increased when R4 was changed from 100k to 39k, all is well with those two.
Your voltage at TP1 is good, but you may want to re-check J3+ (red) - while
0.1 volts may just be some artifact of your meter, the voltage
I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
charged up and ready to go?
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Yes, just like a alarm system... Ready to go, any time
73
-Message d'origine-
De : [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] De la part de David
Envoyé : 1 février 2005 09:12
À : Mailingliste Elecraft
Objet : [Elecraft] K2 BAT
I was wondering how does everyone keep there
If one keeps the K2 connected to a 14.1 to 14.3 volt power supply that is
continuously running, the battery should stay charged.
If you prefer a better battery charging system, look into creating a direct
battery connection and using a 'smartcharger' - for my implementation, see
my webpage
I could not remember if the battery was charged through the 12 volt supply
- Original Message -
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: David [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mailingliste Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 BAT
Guy's...
Getting on with the K2 RF Board here .going together much better
than I antisipated...although I have workmen in the house here at the
moment...fitting a new bathroom suite and layout... SO..! at times its
hard to concentrate with all the noise...
Just wanted to enquire...
I am
Hello Chris!
I have just built the KDSP2 and everything seems to work properly,
including the clock and changing the filter frfequencies.
However, the red LED remains on...
This is certainly peculiar. If the DSP is working, the first thing it
does is turns off the LED. This feature is
Stephen wrote:
Hello and have fun.
I used an old pencil soldering iron, clamped it vertically, removed the
tip and filled the cavity with solder.
I then dip the end of wire into the cavity. Works very well. That's how
2330 got done.
take care.
Hi gentlefolks,
Home construction has
Andy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] ...I Just See It.!.. John A. Ross
(RSD Communications circa 2004)
A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP ..It is vain to do with
more A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Airwhat can be done
Hello Dave,
I was wondering how does everyone keep there elecraft battery in the k2
charged up and ready to go?
yes, I do it with an accumulator charger (output 13.8 volts). But I have
modified my K2 #01118 a little bit. Please see at
www.dk3red.homepage.t-online.de/en/s6.htm#trx6
and read
Hello Christian,
The issue, though, is that when I tap the menu button or the display
button, not inst will flash for a second before the menu is displayed.
All tests checked out after power up, except the keyer, since I don't
have a paddle. Let me add that at this point, I am missing one
Hi,
I have a KSB2 kit supplied about 11 months ago. The instructions are Revision
D. I see there is a Revision E on the website. The only difference appears to
be the lettered capacitors CA, CB etc in the xtal filter which have changed in
value.
Should I obtain caps of the revised value to
Hi there,
since my last thread has gone wild ;-) ... here comes a new one.
I just checked the PCB again for any visual problems
but didn't find any. And then I did the measurements again.
I now have -0.1 to -0.15V on J3+ (yes, MINUS). Still zero V at TP1.
Any idea how this voltage could get
Hi all,
I have been through the archives so I know this has been asked and
answered a few times but I still am not making much progress on this.
The problem is that my resistance test for Q7 collecter is not correct.
With the common probe on ground and the positive probe of my DVM
measuring
David,
I've been an SO2R operator for several years with a pair of IC-765s and
completely agree with other's SO2R sentiments. I sold those 765s with the
idea of replacing them with the much better receiver specs in 2 K2/100s. I
just built my first K2 (#4687) and gave it a good work out in the
Hi, I have an un-built KAF2 for sale. Please make offer via email,
Thanks,
Phil
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...as we drove to pick up two of my children. I was
early, and had about 40 spare minutes...by design!
Heh, heh...
Up went the 40M Hamstick, I plugged everything in, got
a fine match and was putting out four to five watts.
Up at 7.040, there was a lot of SSB, So I tuned down,
found a pile, it
John,
Those capacitor value changes will change the filter bandwidth from the
older 2.1 kHz bandwidth to the newer 2.3 kHz width - nothing but the
capacitors need be changed. That is the only change (and it is equivalent
to the KI6WX filter bandwidth mod). Yes, I do recommend it - unless you
Neal,
Try removing the Control board to see if the resistance moves up
substantially - if it does, look for the problem on the Control Board or its
connectors, oterwise look for the problem on the RF Board.
The best advice I can offer is to look at the schematic and find all the
points marked
I purchased the Sounds Sweet speaker and am quite satisfied with it as the
external speaker for my K2.
However, shortly after receiving the speaker, the October 2004 issue of
QST came in the mail. This issue had a cover story on building your own
high-quality speaker and it looked quite
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