Greetings Folks,
An Evasive noise blanker is on my wish list. This is the system where the
noise blanker receives noise from out of band and none of its circuits
(except for its input tap off and the IF Gate) are in the main signal
path. Best done when you can tune the noise blanker receiver a
The Trio TS180S had this scheme of noise blanker as well.
73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 08:55:13 -, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:
Greetings Folks,
An Evasive noise blanker is on my wish list. This is the system where the
noise blanker receives noise from out of band and none
Hi Vic,
Have you thought of just switching the rx antenna out of circuit whilst
transmitting? Unless you are using fast break-in, a small externally
switched relay should solve your problem. If you are feeling
particularly paranoid:-), then use the same relay to earth the rx input
via a 50
Vic,
I don't have the full answer, but can offer this 'food for thought' -- The
Rant input (when active) is connected to the output of the K2 T/R switch
when in use, and when the Rant is not being used that point is subjected to
the full output of the base K2 output collector RF voltage - so I
On Feb 11, 2005, at 12:13 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
I am experimenting with using the K2 rant input (that's receiver
antenna, not verbal outburst).
I want to use my 20-meter quad as a receiving antenna when I am
transmitting on 160 with an inverted L. It is a lot quieter. The L
is right
Hi all,
I have seen this so many times but have been bitten by it. I have just
started to get back on the key and my tone is awful. Raspy and buzzy.
The tone on Tune is fine. SSB is great.
I have moved the PSU well away (Revex 30A, Regular PSU) and even tried
using one even further away, easily
test
73, Ty
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Noticed that Wayne just made a reference to adding a
polyfuse to a KX1.
I added one to K1 # 1423. Details at:
http://tyrrell.us/amateur/k1modpolyfuse.html.
Comments please.
73, Ty
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Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's
serial number. It has the following options in it. SSB, 160, NB,
Audio Filter / Clock, Battery, and probably a couple I've forgotten.
\My question is, with all of the updates made to the newer K2's, is
this a good
Hi All,
The K2 appears to work on all bands, albeit only 6 to 8watts out on 15/12/15m,
which I presume is ok, but maginal. When I connect up my KPA100, output is
100w plus on the lower bands, but on 15/12/10 m it is very low, and the system
is self-oscilating around 100MHz and the frequency
test message
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Help:
Jeff:
First, if you don't want to add the KPA100 right away, you really
needn't do anything if you don't want (and if the K2 is really working
just fine). However, eventually you are going to want to take
advantage of some of the nice mods that have come along since 1400s
were made. Go to
Jeff,
I will not comment on the value/price, but you can compare it with the price
of new kits. Being an earlier serial number, consider the work you would
have to do to bring it up to level (assuming you would want to do that).
The prices for the A to B mod kit, firmware upgrades, and other mod
Hi Don,
Sounds interesting, I would like to see how it's
going. I'm interested in the control circuitry.
73,
Julius
n2wn
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W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:
I don't have the full answer, but can offer this 'food for thought' -- The
Rant input (when active) is connected to the output of the K2 T/R switch
when in use, and when the Rant is not being used that point is subjected to
the full output of the base K2 output
Geoff
That's the way the NB in my old Kenwood TS180 worked.
It has an 8 MHz 1st IF, and the NB pickoff is before the 8 MHz crystal
filter, as I recall. The NB is tunable with a front panel control to
allow you to move away from an interfering signal.
73, Bob N6WG
-- Original message
Jeff
You will find even the oldest K2s are solid performers.
I'm still using my s/n 12 ! It is still stock, with none of the
upgrades installed yet. I bought the upgrade kits, but
never got around to isntalling them. Great little radio as
it stands, and works very well as a contest radio too.
Bryan,
I suggest solving the low power output on 15/12/10 for the base K2. You
should be able to achieve at least 10 watts on all bands. I don't believe
that is your basic problem with the KPA100.
If the the KPA100 is self-oscillating, that is the first problem to tackle.
Once you get that
Hi Ian,
As far as I can tell, the rasp/buzz issue related to power supplies
has to do with magnetic fields coupling into L30 on the right side
bottom of the K2. This messes up the VFO frequency, so it should also
mess up SSB transmit and receive both. Is it possible that you have
a problem with
Hi all,
Just thought I would pop the resolution for my problem on here.
Thanks to all that responded. Lou, W6UR was the first to spot it and
Gary Surrency shortly after.
I had installed RFC15 incorrectly which basically made it open circuit.
In trying to move it, I broke it of course! Gary
In spite of the funny happening (my sneeze), I found the lock-up
problem - I inadvertantly shorted the dit line on my
bencher paddle, which locks the K2 in tx. Moral - don't sneeze!
Mike
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1400 an older serial #? Young whipper snapper!
Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's
serial number.
--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND K2 # 185 (in the middle of A to B mods)
Karns, TN
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Any recommendations for headphones for the KX1? I'm currently using a
set from a Sony Discman, and even with the AF gain up all the way, it
really isn't loud enough for me (left a lot of my hearing on the other
side of the world). Lighter would also be nice for the Spartan Sprint.
73,
Fred
Fred,
I like The Plug by Koss.
73/Gil NN4CW
K2 #3104; KX1 #53; First Born of Jack and Tillie Stacy, etc.
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Elecraft recommends the Sony MDR series. Get out your glasses and look
for Sensitivity: 108dB/mW. There are two Sony products that say this
and the cheaper ones are fine. Both have a nice case good for portable
use. Do a google search for KX1 MDR.
WA5ZNU / Leigh.
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005
Hi all.
I have a silly question.
At one point in the manual for the KPA100 it says to install 2
lockwashers under each screw for Q1 and Q2 while soldering them and
another place it says just 1 lockwasher during final assembly.
How many lockwashers go under each screw for Q1 and Q2 for final
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