Chris:
You do have Config: L-Mix-R set to A on one side, B on the other?
(A b) That should put one rx on the tip, the other on the ring. It
does on mine.
--
73 Art
Allison, Colorado
Whether you believe you can do a thing or
not, you are right. --Henry Ford.
Hi mate,I do have the MH-2 and certainly is big and PTT swithc is little hard
to press but it stays there even my thumb finger moves,I don't have that
mechanical problem you have,I am sure some one on the group will come out with
a solution and congratulations for your new K3,I am taking mine
Toby,
For me, sidetone or monitor level linked to volume setting
is very distasteful. Depending on the signal to noise ratio
and the type of noise or signal, I'm always fiddling with
the volume. I pretty much always want one sidetone or
monitor level, and want it independent of volume.
The
This issue has been debated many times on the reflector and both parties
have their points.
In my opinion, the K3 has it right BUT I need the sidetone level to be
available at all times during cw operation without push/hold/tone. The
steady tone thing drives me crazy if I'm in a QSO and need to
Tom, I believe you are on so something the way you have your audio wired
up.
Thanks very much for detailed information and pictures of the way you do
things at you QTH.
I am not using such an elaborate sound system, just running the headphones
direct into the rig. Speakers are SP 20 Icom
Hi Jeff
The button is a bit mushy lacking a positive action.
Another problem that I have with the MH2 is its curly cord. The curly cord is
so stiff that it pulls the radio if you try and stretch it a bit. It just does
not have enough stretch, even if pulled a small amount.
I like using a
Hi Paul
What are your mods? Did you just use a capacitor to roll off the bass?
Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was very common
on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the manufacturer, which is a pity
since the HC5 seems to produce good audio on just about
I started build one of the 2 K2s I ordered at Dayton (one for me and
the second for Linda K2QYL). After about 5 hours I have the control
board done. I did the resistence measurments as specified and all are
OK, except for U6 pins 29 30, the DIT and DAH pins. The manual
specifys between 70-90K
Steve KC8QVO wrote:
Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards.
It took me quite a while to fix it. I used solder wick to suck
Hi John,
You should be fine. Take your time and enjoy the build.
Finish the one K2 before you start the other. It'll go a whole lot
smoother when you know what to expect.
Also, I'd recommend you consider getting pre-wound toroids from Mike
Morohovich ( 412) 481-2349 toroid...@earthlink.net.
juergen wrote:
Hi Paul
What are your mods? Did you just use a capacitor to roll off the bass?
Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was very
common on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the manufacturer, which is
a pity since the HC5 seems to produce good
Have you asked Heil
Yes. Heil will no longer sell the bare elements. One must
purchase a D-104 upgrade kit in order to get the element. In
addition, Heil will not sell replacement clamshells for the
original Proset mic boom for repair purposes.
In spite of their claims, Heil do not care
I am not using such an elaborate sound system, just
running the headphones direct into the rig. Speakers are
SP 20 Icom and the other is a Ten Tec 307B. Using this
method of plugging the headphones into the pnones jack,
and using the speaker in put on the rig for output, there
is
On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 5:15 AM, Art K6XT k...@arrl.net wrote:
You do have Config: L-Mix-R set to A on one side, B on the other?
(A b) That should put one rx on the tip, the other on the ring. It
does on mine.
Assuming you have CONFIG:SPKRS = 2 also!
~Iain / N6ML
Elecraft MH2 microphone excellent condition, little use and a recent purchase.
$45.00 plus shipping. Contact off list please.
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Help:
Well durn! I saw that kit, but it didn't say which element it was.
There's no way to order from their website either AFAICT. I needed some
of the foam pads that go inside the Pro-Set ear muffs, and had to do a
phone order. I now have the CM-500 on the K3 and the Pr0-Set on the
backup PRO II.
An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3,
but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works
up for repeaters and offsets, tone accesses. Does anyone have any idea
of where to find a logical sequence of steps to do the job, or is this a
case of
An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3,
but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works
up for repeaters and offsets, tone accesses.
Please see the FM Operation section in the K3 Owner's Manual.
73,
Lyle KK7P
I believe you will find what you need in the K3 ops manual, not the K144XV
manual.
Grant/NQ5T
On May 27, 2010, at 11:13 AM, Gil WA5YKK wrote:
An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3,
but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works
up
That's it!! I had forgotten about that menu setting. Works properly now.
I can detect some low level crosstalk but I suspect less than the
FT1kMP. Will check with some big sigs in WPX.
Thanks for all the responses.
Chris G3SJJ
Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
Make sure you have that you don't have
Jeff
At the suggestion of Ian GM3SEK, I removed the spring under the ptt and cut
a bit off it before stretching back to its original length. It was a bit
fiddly but not difficult. Dropped it more than once!
The ptt is now much easier to use but as others have remarked, it has no
positive
The MH2 microphone listed earlier today has been sold to Derek Brown, WF4I
pending receipt of funds, Thanks Derek!
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Fellow Elecrafters,
I remember reading a comparison by I think K3NA on the differences between 5
pole and 8 pole filters that eventually lead me to stick with the 5 pole
filters. Does anybody know what I'm thinking of, because Google searches,
and Nabble searches of the Elecraft archives aren't
Hello from north Italy.
I have a K2 sn 6822.
With my 1nd KPA100 it's ok (Rev F Oct 2009)
With my 2nd KPA100 (Rev B June 2003) , I have a little problem.
If 11 WATT work fine.
If 11 WATT, I have HI CUR on display, for a bit moment, 5 watt on
display is reality abt 15 watt
Need I upgrade my
Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have
virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results. There are indeed
at least 2 different fans in use in K3s:
Elina HDF6015L-12LB-1 and UTEC AT6015L-12L2B-ND2 and ND5
The Elina fans are made by Inaba Denki Sangyo, a Japanese
I see in the new K3 Assembly manual that there are two new items added since
S/N 1567 was born.? The first is for thermal pads that attach to the underside
of the LPA transistors where they meet the bottom cover (page 62).? The second
is aluminum metal plates/shields for the synthesizer modules
Ok this has me a bit stumped...
First I could get 40m working on RX and TX, but 20m was deaf as a post and no
TX, now it's the other way around. I needed to tweak L7 and L8.
40m is band 1 and 20m is band 2.
Anyone else had this got any ideas? Yes been through 62 and the relays do
switch.
Luca,
I believe you also have a problem at 11 watts. If you check the actual
power I believe you will find it is always high (100 watts) at any
setting of the power control above 11 watts.
The problem is that the power output from the KPA100 is not being
reported to the base K2
Dom,
Yes, that K1 would appear to be deaf - most can hear a -130 dBm signal
well above the receiver noise floor.
To troubleshoot it, use your oscilloscope (with a 10X probe). First
check the crystal oscillator output on each band You can check that at
the 2 band board P1 pin 4. You should
Interesting my synthesizer module has the metal cover over it, but there
wasn't the instructions to add the thermal pads on the power transistors
(can't remember my K3's serial no. offhand, but I built it a couple months
ago).
After the misery of having to take the bottom panel off my K2, it
Alfred Frugoli wrote:
I remember reading a comparison by I think K3NA on the differences between
5
pole and 8 pole filters that eventually lead me to stick with the 5 pole
filters.
Eric and I are both ex-Orion users, which worked well with 4-pole filters so
I concluded 5-poles would be
I'm sure glad you asked that question, Gil. I just got my 2m module in
today, and would have had to do the same!! How'd yours install and work??
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Steve,
This is the reason I spent my money on the Hakko de-soldering gun. I was a
test builder and found myself doing quite a number of mods. I also worked
on some non - Elecraft boards of cheaper quality... and the de-soldering
iron has save my butt. I have pulled a couple of traces in my
The app note for modifying the K3SYN board has been posted to the K3
Enhamcements and Application Notes page at:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm
It is a simple one-resistor mod. Next time I have the rig open, I'll
probably do both of mine.
Description:
In rare cases, at certain
That should read Enhancements not EnHAMcements, of course. 8-)
Bruce N1RX
K3 #559
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Post:
OK, how do I find out if I need this mod? I have witnessed two different
frequency shift problems, one of them I have posted here and there has been
some discussion about it.
Problem #1 (posted before) -- when listening to CW, when the signal is
reasonably strong such as S9 or better, if
Phil,
The ap note itself says it applies to rigs before approximately 3922 serial
number. I looked to see if my 4076 was covered, although I have not
experienced the problem yet.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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The p-value is 0.07 (Fisher Exact test). Not dramatically
significant, but well above the statistically virtually meaningless
level.
You might write back to your respondents and see if there are any
differences in the K3s, such as the amount of empty space inside, or
in settings.
Peter
Phil Hystad-3 wrote:
OK, how do I find out if I need this mod? I have witnessed two different
frequency shift problems, one of them I have posted here and there has
been some discussion about it.
Problem #1 (posted before) -- when listening to CW, when the signal is
reasonably strong
Was looking through the K3 manual and discovered something that will be very
helpful tomorrow. I can put the K3 into KXV3 test mode and use it as a low
power generator. With that capability and my power meter (which can only
take +7dbm) I can measure the condition of my 4 year old buried feed.
The most recent mod to the KSYN3 board(s) is the third mod to that board. The
second mod potentially undoes and redoes the first mod (unless you chose to do
the first mod via SMD change).
First mod, applicable to all K3s shipped before 12/22/08:
The most recent mod to the KSYN3 board(s) is the third mod to that board. The
second mod potentially undoes and redoes the first mod (unless you chose to do
the first mod via SMD change).
First mod, applicable to all K3s shipped before 12/22/08:
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