Hi,
DX engineering has several commercial products:
http://www.dxengineering.com/Sections.asp?ID=33DeptID=17#Top
I also saw in a QST (sorry, don't remember which: I've been
re-reading QST's from the last few years) an IP driven RF controlled
remote. I suspect a lot more
I am working on the KAF2 audio filter for my K2; at least I will be as soon as
the missing voltage regulator makes it thru the Christmas mail. Naturally my
junk boxes have 5V, 8V, 9V, 12V etc., but no 6V regulators! Hi Hi !
The instructions state that the real time clock IC is static
Russ,
Why make the static sensitivity problem potentially worse - just solder
it onto the board taking reasonable anti-static measures when you do.
Once soldered onto the board, the IC is no longer static sensitive
because its input(s) are no longer floating.
Touch a grounded bare metal
How can I do this? I don't really want to search through each month's
separately to find K2 low audio which is what I'm looking for.
(Well, while I'm here, K2 s/n 6905 has just been aligned using Don Wilhelm's
instructions and is working ok, but the audio is only just loud enough. I have
the
Go through the Elecraft page, Email list (reflector) link in the
blue box on the main page. Pick one of the Nabble searchable lists,
one that lists by thread.73, Guy.
On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith ian...@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
How can I do this? I don't really want to
A little off-topic, but is anybody currently supplying a good keyboard
which will interface with a usb-connected board or even a wireless
connection? Don't need a code reader, but some programmable memories would be
nice. Understand K1EN is out of production for a while.
No need to
Hi folks
just a question.
I' don'nt understand the selection scheme of the sub rx.
In the figures of the manual seems that is possible in the aux rreceive
using ant1 on main ant ant 2 on sub.
the question is: isit possibile to reiceive on main rx the anti1 signal and
anthe sub rx the antenna 2
On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith ian...@hotmail.co.ukwrote:
...the audio is only just loud enough. I have the volume up full
I can't speak for others, but my K2 behaves the same, Ian. More audio output
would be nice.
Tony KT0NY
This seems quite anomalous...my K2 (and my K3) will blow one out of the
room at half-setting or lower on the AF gain control...implying that
something is quite amiss specifically with the two K2's in question.
John Ragle -- W1ZI
=
On 12/18/2010 12:40 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
...More audio
Hi George:
Just heard you on 10 meters a couple of minutes ago calling CQ on CW.
Although I don't use a P3 (My new roof just finished being installed a
couple of hours ago, so the P3 will wait for later in 2011), my setup is the
following:
Real com port 1 from my computer goes to side B of the
just hit the send button for my k-3 kit. come on ups!!!
s/tony rowland
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This
Is Tony using the internal speaker? My K2 has lots of volume too, for phones
or its internal speaker, but Elecraft uses a fairly efficient speaker in
either the QRP or K2/100. Some external speakers are not nearly as
efficient. They assume lots of watts of audio are available to drive them.
Ron
Here's a cute little $9.99 (shipped from Hong Kong) audio amp
that I use with my K3's:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Audio-Amplifier-Car-Motorcycle-/290506078266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item43a382f83a
If you have trouble with that URL, it's ebay item number
290506078266. I bought the
Ian,
I would tend to believe that you have a problem in the receive path.
Turn to the Troubleshooting Appendix in the manual and find the section
dealing with Receive Signal Tracing and go through those steps to
discover which is the failing stage.
If you need further help, just ask here -
Good day all Elecrafters;
My new K3 is alive and well. thanks to the grand engineering efforts by the
people we all know and respect.
I especially wish to send my Christmas greetings and good wishes to the
people below decks that row the oars. The
people who made sure my building experience
Well John make it 3.
My $8 solution was a powered Motorola speaker from a hamfest. As shown
on Tom's, N0SS, here:
http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html
I did change 2 resistors in the feedback loop to set the gain where I
wanted it.
73,
Bob
K2TK
On 12/18/2010 1:23 PM, John Ragle wrote:
I would check the voltage in the AF chain and amp and look at the output
waveform with a scope. Fix it rather than bandage it.
Mel
From: Dave Hachadorian k...@arrl.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, December 18, 2010 10:40:48 AM
Luca,
Yes, it is possible to hear the subRX on the opposite antenna that the
main is listening to.
You must have a TMP cable connected between the KAT3 and the antenna
input of the subRX - that cable is not installed on factory-built K3s,
but the extra TMP cable is shipped with the K3.
The
Bob,
I agree that is the way to get more audio from the speaker - but the
original poster said he had low audio in the headphones as well, so I
suspect he has another problem, or very inefficient headphones.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/18/2010 1:58 PM, Bob wrote:
Well John make it 3.
My $8
Hi Luca,
Here is a picture showing what you want to do.
http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/main-and-sub-rx-antenna-switchi
ng
It shows the Main Rx connected to ANT1 and the Sub Rx connected to ANT2.
You must have Config:KRX3 Ant=ATU. Then turn Sub On (tap SUB) and then
either RX ANT or Hold
YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's
basic ESD prevention 101.
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700
From: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:
The weekly SSB net will meet tomorrow at 1800z on 14.314 MHz. I will be net
control from western Oregon. We'll arrange for relays to try to pull you all
in. See you then.
73,
Phil
NS7P
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NOT a direct ground - through a high value (1 megohm) resistor, YES.
That is basic SAFETY.
Connecting your body directly to ground can cause bodily harm or even
death if you accidentally come in contact with a source of voltage.
Even low voltages can be dangerous if the source is capable of
Ciao,
concerne la tua domanda per ascoltare con il sub receiver da un'antenna
diversa da quella usata in TX.
Devi collegare direttamente il cavo d'entrata dell'antenna del secondo
ricevitore con il cavetto coassiale accluso su uno dei fori posteriori
predisposti.
Loro danno un cavetto tmp con
not familiar wit the K2 but if it has an equalizer like the K3 check
settings
I wondered why my K3 sounded bad and then I remembered I had played wit
the equalizer and after resetting it was OK If I boost all frequencies I
can pick up
additional AF gain that way
Bob K3DJC
Bob,
I agree
Wrong.
First off, the guy never said anything about connecting the item to
ground ... he stated that as long as you were connected to ground you
were OK. That's false.
It is also false that both of you need to be connected to ground for
ESD, although that may be good practice for other
I used a static strap and mat when building my K1 K2. I left the sensitive
componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however,
sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used
for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be
Hi Mark,
I use a anti-static mat and wrist strap also. I prefer a compartment sorter
also, but you can get anti static sorter trays, for money, hi. Most are not
anti-static and can cause problems. I use 18 egg cartons with the top cut off,
no static. The cartons also have another advantage.
Mark,
I would not put any of the transistors into ordinary plastic bins - I
stick them into the ESD foam.
The other components (resistors, capacitors and *most* diodes) are not
ESD sensitive and can be placed into any sorting thing of your choice.
Yes, if things are winter dry, spray your
Sorry Guys,
I lost the info on this. I need to replace the headphone jack (for the 4th
time). I also need to place an order with Mouser for a sticky relay I have
in a rigblaster. Does anyone know the mouser or switchcraft part number for
the K2 headphone switch?
Tnx,
Ed wa3drc
'Chuckle'...OK...I guess the 'blob' of metal from the MIG welder that
entered my boot and caused me to star in an unscripted episode of 'Dancing
with the Sparks' pales into insignificance.
My wife is still laughing at my antics but at least Mr. Happy is remains
undamaged in my case the
Ed,
The only one in the Mouser catalog that I have found with the proper
schematic and picture is Mouser # 161-3503-EX It is on page 1143 of
catalog 640 and is made by Kirbiconn.
I cannot vouch that this is the same jack stocked at Elecraft since I
have not ordered one from Mouser, but it
Mark, the only really ESD-sensitive parts are those with high impedance
(resistance) gates. Bipolar transistors, resistors, capacitors and other
electrical parts are very hard to damage via ESD, although it is possible if
one gets a good charge built up on one's self then manages to make a nice
That's a bit of a careless generalization.
Almost any RF bipolar transistor or RF bipolar IC can be rather easily
damaged by ESD they typically have very shallow junctions and
require very little current to puncture in the reverse bias direction.
Almost any small signal Schottky diode
This is one of those threads that recurs periodically, and the answers
are always the same.
Many plastics will generate a static charge, almost by themselves.
Styrofoam is one of the worst, it's why the packing p'nuts fly all over
the place and stick to you when you try to cram them into the
In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted
Metal muffin baking tins are good. Please note that this is INCORRECT.
If a metal muffin baking tin (or any conductor for that matter) were brought
into direct contact with an ESD sensitive device, and the two were not
I knew that comment would get someone to jump in Dave ;-)
IMX it is much, much harder to damage a diode, even a Schottky, than most
MOSFET/FET devices. Also I agree that some RF bipolars, particularly those
using the planar process that puts a crazy number of bipolar transistors
in parallel on
Fred,
Your statement of connecting to an equipotential plane is a good one,
but your concern about spikes and inductive reactance back to the
planet should not be a concern. It IS important that all items in the
protected area be connected to the SAME point on this safety ground.
To avoid damage just follow the same protocol as you would when installing
the part in a circuit board.
Ideally the tin would be grounded through a 1 meg resistor.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted
Metal muffin
That's no guarantee of anything. It doesn't address the issue of
instantaneous static dissipation from the component to the muffin tin
itself (which has capacity to its surroundings and acts as it's own
charge sink). Reread Gary's comment about surface conductivity.
Dave AB7E
On
On 12/18/2010 3:58 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Fred,
Your statement of connecting to an equipotential plane is a good one,
but your concern about spikes and inductive reactance back to the
planet should not be a concern. It IS important that all items in the
protected area be connected to the
Yes. If you are using a commercially available wrist strap, the 1M
resistor is built in. An anti-static mat will also have a surface
resistivity of at least 1Mohm/sq. Ground both and you'll be safe, and
your equipment will be safe as well.
On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:08 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Not if the tin is grounded.
If not grounded, the capacity charge is taken care of by touching the tin
before touching it with the part, just like when installing a part in a pc
board.
As I said, use the same protocol as if installing a part in a pc board.
Ron AC7AC
-Original
No, it is not false. The problem is that when you get up, and move
around, your potential will change from that of the equipment. Touch
it again, and you can have an ESD event. Ground the equipment and
yourself (through a high value resistor) and it will ensure that
everything will remain at
On 12/18/2010 3:50 PM, Gary Hvizdak wrote:
In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted
Metal muffin baking tins are good. Please note that this is INCORRECT.
As usual, Gary is correct in that ESD mats are not great conductors, but
good enough, so that charges
As in my prior post - ground both to the *same* grounding point.
It does not have to be a good ground in the sense of RF or lightning
ground, but it must be the *same* ground point. Remember that the name
of the game is that everything should be at the same potential - and
that need not
GOOD suggestion! While I don't swap cables, I just flip one switch on the
serial selector switch, but this is a good thing to know... Does this mean
that I can use K3-EX CONCURRENTLY with N1MM via Router on a separate com
port, Joe?
That would be really great! A GUI for the radio!
I will give
I think this topic comes up way to often and really goes no where. Like
beating dead horse.Geo/W2BPI
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On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:55 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
...
If the part comes in ESD packaging, it's smart to treat it as ESD sensitive.
Some distributors put all parts in ESD envelopes whether they are
sensitive or not. I have had CONNECTORS come in ESD packaging!
Alan N1AL
Geo,
Yes, it does come up from time to time, and IMHO for those who have not
seen it before, the thread contents are informative, and is not beating
dead horse.
For those who have been following this reflector for some time, it is
repetitive information.
Please be respectful and tolerant for
Mouser does it all the time. My Amphenol PL-259's were even in ESD
packaging. Good thing is they arrived with no static damage :)
73,
Don
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AMEN
- Original Message -
From: w2b...@aol.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 7:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
I think this topic comes up way to often and really goes no where. Like
beating dead horse.Geo/W2BPI
I will try this and let you know what I find! Good tip, you're always good
for another bit of digital streamlining, Joe!
-lu-
-Original Message-
From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 8:57 PM
To: lrom...@ij.net
Cc:
Yes ... I just said the same thing in response to another message. If
you or the parts are moving around the room, being connected to a common
reference point as you or they do so makes a lot of sense, and ground,
while sometimes not as perfect as we'd like to believe, is better than
just
Agreed Don. Based on earlier iterations of this thread years ago, we devoted
a whole page in the K3 manuals to this subject. Even so, when it comes up on
line it seems like the thing to do to try to answer the specific questions.
But, with the last few questions and concerns expressed, it's
I've gotten spare screws from Elecraft in ESD packages too, Hi!
But, if a newbie isn't sure, it's not a bad rule of thumb.
Gad, I'm glad that thread is over!
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Don Cunningham [mailto:wb5...@martineer.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 6:06 PM
To:
I thought we were talking about putting parts INTO the tin. If you
gradually equalize the potential of the parts with respect to the muffin
tin before putting them into it, yeah ... that will work OK. But then
the resistor to ground from the tin is a don't care .. it doesn't
accomplish
Squeezing higher power out degrades the IMD.
SO... The 10 watt amp feeds the 100 w PA? Does it get fed with 10 watts
or 12 watts? What does that mean to the IMD of the 100 w PA by the cause of
the degraded IMD being fed into the PA?
73, de Jim KG0KP
- Original Message -
From: Ron
Ron,
While we all agree that screws in an anti-static package is overkill, I
hope that all will consider the essential content of this thread.
It does not matter whether everything is a ground or whether it is at
1000 volts above ground. What is important is that everything in your
working
There is a hole in the back of my K2 marked 'GND'. Looking for a suitable
ground connection to my K2 I wondered if this 'hole' gets filled by an
option. What are other users using for a K2 ground connection?
Brian Denley
KB1VBF
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
Good Evening,
Once again Oregon weather has given us every possible condition. Full
sun with warm days. Rain in torrential amounts. Now snow, freezing rain,
sleet, and pellet snow. Makes life interesting. Good thing they warn us
so we can prepare. I am cozy in the cabin with things
Brian,
If you have the KAT2 or the KPA100 option installed, there will be a
binding post for the ground connection. If you have the basic K2, and
you wish to have a ground connection, put a 5 way binding post on the
mounting hole labeled ground and connect it to your station ground point.
They are best when filled with fresh muffins!
John
k7up
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Perhaps instead of using the word ground, we should use the word common.
John
k7up
It does not matter whether everything is a ground or whether it is at
1000 volts above ground. What is important is that everything in your
working environment is at the same potential. Connecting your wrist
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