John,
Actually a standard serial cable can be connected to the KRC2 if jumpers
W11 thru W20 are removed, no need to cut off wires in the cable.
That information *is* in the plugging configuration charts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/25/2015 8:43 AM, John K9UWA wrote:
A simple statement in the KRC2
Brian,
Do things settle down if you drive a dummy load instead of the antenna?
If so, that would nail it as an RF Feedback. If that is the case, use a
good quality common mode choke at the junction of the coax with the
ladderline. See K9YC's RFI information at
Brian,
The Elecraft K series requires a different way of setting power out on digital.
You increase the audio drive from the SignaLink until the "ALC" meter is
showing 4 to 5 bars and then adjust the power control to set the required power
out, do not use the audio level to adjust the power.
THANKS JIM
After 4+ years of dealing with the inability to reprogram the KRC2. Finally the
real Answer as to how to connect the KRC2 to the Serial DB9 of your
computer and program it with the Utility Program. Yes 4 years ago when I
assembled the KRC2 after three very long frustrating days I
Brian,
Too early in the morning with me, I just noticed the fact you have a K2 not a
K3 or KX3.
In that case the ALC meter is different, but perhaps you may find something
that is helpful on the late G4ILO's site:
http://www.g4ilo.com/k2psk31.html
73
David Anderson GM4JJJ
> On 25 Oct
I use the NORTEX Accuprobe. Nice inexpensive, versitile and very sensitive.
73, Joe KK5NA
On 10/25/2015 4:35 PM, Rick Robinson wrote:
I don't have the paperwork in front of me but the Elecraft DL 1 dummy load
has provisions to measure power up to
Or: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
On 10/25/2015 12:41 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Sure. I use http://marc.info/?l=elecraft and check Subject (rather than
Body). Works well for me.
73, Phil W7OX
On 10/25/15 11:20 AM, Bill Gaines wrote:
Is there any way to search the archives of this list
I don't have the paperwork in front of me but the Elecraft DL 1 dummy load
has provisions to measure power up to 20 watts with a 10% accuracy. Just
use a dvm. They also make a WM1 that handles more power with a .5 dbm
accuracy.
On Sunday, October 25, 2015, Hajo Dezelski wrote:
Hi All,
I agree with Ron, the DL1 can be very accurate with a good DVM.
I have computed diode voltage loss using an attenuator. The results are
here:
http://www.kn5l.net/DL1-diode/
John KN5L
On 10/25/2015 05:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The DL1 can be very accurate.
One point I've learned over the years is the fact baluns, regardless of
the ratio, are power rated at matched values. i.e. a 1:1 is typically a
50 ohm to 50 ohm while a 4:1 is nominally a 200 ohm to 50 ohm device.
And the power rating is mostly at closely matched values. Hence a 4:1
balun
The DL1 can be very accurate. As a QRP and QRPp enthusiast I have a homebrew
version that goes back decades before Elecraft, Hi!
A simple RF voltmeter is a common way and inexpensive to measure very small
power levels. (For the more exotic measurements a bolometer or, optionally,
an accurate
Bob,
You are quite correct, and your recommendation to use a balun rated
at higher power levels than you plan to run is dead on. One point; in
the main, it is better to use a current type rather than a voltage
balun. Between your recommendation and my suggestion, a number of
problems get
Seems like you got a lot of recommendations for a foot switch, but not too
many for a hand-held switch. The one from Ron, WD4AHZ, looks nice, but the
price seems pretty stiff! Seems to me something like that should only cost
$10-$15 at the most, but I'm probably still "living" in the 20th
All,
Keep in mind that if you use the excellent method Ron describes, there
is a huge dependency on the precision of the dummy load - just any old
resistor will not do unless it is characterized first. It must be
characterized for not only resistance, but the resistance and any
possible
Thanks to everyone that responded. I decided to make my own from these
parts at Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey172-1112
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyED913
Total cost was less than $20 plus shipping.
On
Sounds good, I guess I'll re-wire it internally as necessary.
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2015 2:08 PM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1
Jer,
It all
I used a heil headset with a footswitch when I had a K3. I use the same set up
with my FTDX1200 and have a Yamaha C500 headset and footswitch that I use with
my KX3. I never use Vox, haven't for 41 years. I also take a hand mike with me
in the RV.
De KE4D
John
Sent from my iPad
Good Morning,
Please join us this afternoon and evening.
14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
7045 kHz at 0100z Monday (6 PM PDT Sunday)
73,
Kevin. KD5ONS
-
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Jer,
It all depends on how you have your K3S physically configured.
If you do not have the subRX installed, that is not possible - although
you can connect whatever antenna you now have on ANT2 to the RX ANT
input and select the RX antenna.
If you do have the sub-receiver, then you can use
Hi,
I've read the owners manual and Fred Cady's K3 manual. Playing with the
rig and still can't figure this out.
Desired end result:
When working split I want to receive on Ant2 and transmit on Ant1. I have
the ATU option installed.
Thanks in advance.
Jerry Moore
CDXA,
What is the issue with using the KRC2 on six meters? Mine works with my
K3 on 6 and also 2 meters by setting the 6M transceiver band to the XV1
control output and 2M transceiver band to the XV2 control output.
Mike
KI0HA
On 10/25/2015 7:43 AM, John K9UWA wrote:
And I like many others now
Hi Jerry. I have a K3, about 1 year old. I'm not sure which
configuration you are using; so, this may or may not help. I do recall
that when you add the second RX (receiver) you have the choice of
attaching the second RX to the AUX port instead of the RX2 ANT port. I
chose the AUX port and
Don,
Yes, things settle down with a dummy load, so it looks like I'm dealing with
RF feedback.
Per the original post, I'm using an Elecraft BL2 balun at the
coax/ladderline junction. Shouldn't this act as the common mode choke that
you suggest or are you suggesting to place a common mode choke
Greetings all,
Just to let you know that I have completed "The Elecraft K3s and P3 -- Getting
the Most from Your High Performance Station". This 324 page book includes over
160 diagrams for you visual learners and 43 exercises showing how to use K3s
features for those who learn by doing. A
Hello,
I have been using a wattmeter from Fox for powers under 1 Watt, but
the display is too nervous and hard to read. So I stumbled over the
Elecraft W2 and read that with the 200 W sensor, you can read also
power levels under 2 Watt. This would be really helpful for I
experiment with power
Is there any way to search the archives of this list to see if my question has
already been addressed before?
AD8P
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My take on this is baluns are baluns and common mode chokes are common
mode chokes. In many cases baluns do not provide adequate common mode
choking requirements. Thus both may be needed. Usually, the balun is
located physically at the load and the common mode choke is located at
the source.
Yep, almost. The word "balun" is a portmanteau of "balanced" and
"unbalanced." They are transformers or auto-transformers and their job
is to keep a balanced feed to the antenna balanced when transitioning to
unbalanced coax. Since they're transformers, they can also transform
the
Brian,
The Elecraft BL2 is a good common mode choke. It is rated at 250 watts
into a *matched* load.
Your load certainly is not matched, and I do not know how to de-rate the
power for any given load.
Check to see if the balun core heats - if so, you could be operating the
BL2 outside its
Sure. I use http://marc.info/?l=elecraft and
check Subject (rather than Body). Works well for me.
73, Phil W7OX
On 10/25/15 11:20 AM, Bill Gaines wrote:
Is there any way to search the archives of this list to see if my question has
already been addressed before?
AD8P
Yes. And even more important -- the word "balun" is used to describe so
many (at least) ten different very kinds of components that the word
itself should be banned from our language. ONE of those components is a
common mode choke. Another is an array of common mode chokes. Another is
a
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