On Thu,6/9/2016 5:46 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
Although we wish that it would be so, it is very doubtful if there are
any street lamps that are certified to meet FCC Part 15 standards as
Class B devices.
Phil,
My understanding of the Rules is that if a product is used in a
residential
On Thu, 2016-06-09 at 17:43 -0400, KarlErb wrote:
> My condo association is planning to replace 1960's street lights to
> reduce energy usage. Is there a reference or two that would help me
> educate our Board on best technology and why RFI should matter to them
> (right now, it doesn't)?
>
>
Well what would be really useful before would be manuals, even preliminary ones
being posted.
I'd like to have the mod for power thru the RJ45 connector done so upon arrival
it would be plug and play.
73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR
On 6/9/2016 10:37 AM, Bill wrote:
Only six
Could the ARRL help? Maybe they can provide some background or educational
material for the association.
Kev / K4VD
On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 8:46 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
> On 6/9/2016 3:26 PM, HankP wrote:
>
> > Although these lighting devices must meet FCC Part 15 limits for
> >
On 6/9/2016 3:26 PM, HankP wrote:
> Although these lighting devices must meet FCC Part 15 limits for
> unintentional radiators, I’d like to suggest that they be rated for
> Part 15B as opposed to Part 15A.
Although we wish that it would be so, it is very doubtful if there are
any street lamps
My experience with two [a small sample] of street lamps, both owned by
the State of California [CALTRANS], is that the lamps don't really
matter much, it's the controllers ... what we used to call ballasts but
that's archaic now.
One appeared to be a fairly old high-pressure sodium vapor
Where you previously using the BNC cable supplied by Elecraft?
John
Sam Morgan k5oai.sam at gmail.com
Thu Jun 9 13:38:03 EDT 2016
Bingo, finally (3rd cable I tried) found a good cable that cleared up
the problem.
--
GB & 73
K5OAI
This is a reply from Mike Gruber -- Phoenix is planning 90,000 street and park
lights - Hank K7HP To Whom It May Concern: This is in response for your
request for public input concerning a conversion to LED street and park
lighting in Phoenix. Although these lighting devices must meet FCC
Karl,
It might interest them to know if the street lamps (or any other
devices) create RFI to licensed radio services (Amateur Radio included),
they must turn those devices off and rectify the problem.
Of course, the FCC would be involved should that happen, but they must
rectify the RFI
My condo association is planning to replace 1960's street lights to reduce
energy usage. Is there a reference or two that would help me educate our Board
on best technology and why RFI should matter to them (right now, it doesn't)?
Thanks for any input.
Karl W3BF
karlerb7 at gmail dot com
By now you know.
What I want to know is whether they will be shipping without a user manual. It
would be nice to know how they work before buying one. At least that's how I'm
wired.
On 6/9/2016 10:31 AM, Francisco "Siso" Hennessey HK3W wrote:
Will be great to know how to connect K-Pod
The utility RJ-45 jack *can* power the K-Pod, but that requires the
addition of a resistor in the K3/K3S. It is an easy mod to install.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/9/2016 3:00 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I could be mistaken, but I think the utility jack will power the pod too.
73 de David,
I could be mistaken, but I think the utility jack will power the pod too.
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
It's not enough that we do our best; sometimes we have to do what's
required. - Winston Churchill
> On 9 Jun 2016, at 18:44, Bill Conkling wrote:
>
> If you read
On Wed,6/8/2016 8:42 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:
Thee is an issue with the cheaper solar controllers - they tend to place the
switching transistor in the ground leg, making connections difficult. For
example the Sunforce controller that Jim mentions uses an N-channel FET as its
pass transistor,
On Thu,6/9/2016 7:38 AM, Jim Finan wrote:
From what has been posted here, the least problematic (most stable?) chemistry
appears to by LiFePhosphate. K9YC (Jim) recommends them after he evaluated the
situation.
My recommendation is for decisions made by USERS of equipment, who are
buying
Eric,
Re "Also, if you have an extra BNC-BNC cable, try
replacing this cable.": Really! Yesterday I was
testing a newly received mag mount to make sure
this (MFJ!) product was OK. Connected a dummy load
to it via a BNC-BNC connector and VSWR was not
flat and impedance varied significantly
If you read the data sheet on the website, it says
"A utility jack beneath the radio’s front panel acts as the K-Pod’s data
interface. The unit can be powered from the radio’s rear 12-V accessory output,
the pod’s own USB port, or any 8-15 V, 50-mA DC power source.*”
…bill nr4c
> On Jun
Bingo, finally (3rd cable I tried) found a good cable that cleared up
the problem.
--
GB & 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
John 3:16 Ephesians 2:8-9 1 Peter 2:24 Acts 2:38
On 6/9/2016 10:45 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
Check the connections on the BNC cable between your K3 and P3 and
Will be great to know how to connect K-Pod before purchase it. I have K3S +
KAT500 + KPA500 + P3 + MicrohamII + SP3 x 2 and I don't see where to
connnect it.
Any advice will be aprreciated
Regards,
Siso HK3W
_
*Francisco "Siso"
Check the connections on the BNC cable between your K3 and P3 and re-seat them.
Also, if you have an extra BNC-BNC cable, try replacing this cable.
Also, if this BNC is run near switching power supplies etc. it can pick up noise
like this.
73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/
On 6/8/2016 7:22 AM, Sam
If you are using a K3 the K3 and P3 control screens in RUMLogNG are hard to
beat on any platform.
Also, if you are a DX’er it does a superior job of tracking and displaying
DXCC slots and their status.
RUMlogNG also has much better integration with LotW and doesn’t require you
to use a 3rd
If you are using a K3 the K3 and P3 control screens in RUMLogNG are hard to
beat on any platform.
Also, if you are a DX’er it does a superior job of tracking and displaying DXCC
slots and their status.
RUMlogNG also has much better integration with LotW and doesn’t require you to
use a 3rd
Heathkit SB220 or at least my 221 keys from the bias voltage,,, ??? 130
vo;ts or so
I did a complete install of all the Harbach updates and this makes for a
very stable amp. The heath line of anps are a deal,,, 3 to 500 bux as
opposed to
3500 for newer amps
Bob K3DJC
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016
Everyone.
I had an interesting experience recently. I have a KX3 and KXPA100 ( #519 )
operating in my workshop in my basement. The rig drives my Heathkit SB220
which has the Harbach soft key mod which has less then 1 volt keying
voltage. This allows me to run up to 1000 watts no problem.
A
Not all the Li Battery problems are from mishandling.
Sony had to eat a bunch of notebook batteries a few years ago because of
improper safety protection (internally). Nikon ate a bunch of their lithium
battery cells for the same reason. Nvidia recalled all their early tablets
about 6 months
Only six days before shipping??? Sure hope so. Looks like a great add-on.
Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Post:
So with the new card installed it would take over 83000 hours to drain the
battery. WOW that’s 3458 days almost 9 years.
Jim K9TF
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Help:
As for #2, I surmise their reasoning includes:
1. Higher energy density for greater capacity for a given size and weight
compared to other lithium chemistries
2. Safe when charged and discharged responsibly, ergo the charger specified
to go with it, protection circuitry within the battery pack,
Mike, NF4L, is correct. RUMlogNG is the version to use for daily and
contest logging. I asked that question on the forums and Tom, DL2RUM? (The
author), told me that.
73,
Joel - W4JBB
On Thursday, June 9, 2016, Mike Reublin NF4L wrote:
> RUMLogNG has about 75 pre-defined
RUMLogNG has about 75 pre-defined contests. I think RUMPed is sorta deprecated.
73, Mike NF4L
> On Jun 8, 2016, at 11:06 PM, Scott Manthe wrote:
>
> You'll get recommendations for MacLoggerDX, and it is nice software, but it's
> also $95. I recommend RUMLog, which does just
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