On 10/31/2020 6:07 PM, David Olean wrote:
I would put the ferrite at the end of the coax before it goes into the
rig if there were rf coming down the coax. Common mode energy can and
will get on the outside of the coax. I am not an expert on this,
I AM an expert on this. :) The most important pl
Good Evening,
It was a good week for mushrooms. Cool nights, cool, sunny days.
Many large, red amanita popping up. A large group of sunspots popped up
too. Solar activity has been higher over the last few weeks. SFU was
at 85, today it's at 80. There were some flares but none directed
If there is ever any question about where to place ferrites, I’ll say in
general, put the ferrites at both ends of the coax (unless its a really short
run).
Some may argue that that is overkill. While there are always exceptional
circumstances, I would in general respectfully disagree with the
Hi Mike,
I would put the ferrite at the end of the coax before it goes into the
rig if there were rf coming down the coax. Common mode energy can and
will get on the outside of the coax. I am not an expert on this, but I
would expect that any problem that would cause a transmitter to
misbeha
Dave,
First try the VCOSHLDKT from Elecraft. See my reflector post at 12:37
today.
Alternately, move anything containing a transformer 2 feet or more away
from the K2.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/30/2020 9:11 PM, DaveVK wrote:
Any suggestions to clean the CW transmission up would be appreciated
Have been reading all the threads on this issue is you (and others) are right
on with the issue. I operate contests here (both cw and ssb) and have many
multiple antennas for the same band.
What I have dome is train the AL1500 ATU for the main antenna I will probably
use on that band, and u
On 10/31/2020 2:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:
I just love how some of the forum or so
judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.
NOT judgemental, but an attempt by those of us who understand how stuff
actually works to share that with others (the several thousand hams who
read this and other ema
This happens due to heating of the finals (network); typically 1500
watts when cold (15-25C in my shack), drops to 1400 watts once warmed up
(50-60C). One can either adjust as needed or just accept 1500 cold and
the drop (much less than one dB); but of course one should pay attention
in all ca
No. This is not the solution for what Pete describes and for what I and
others also experience. Switching antennas, even antenna ports, often gives
very different power output numbers for the same drive levels from the
K3/K3S, even when appropriate and acceptable tuning solutions are found.
Usin
I had that with a TenTec Omni when I placed the speaker/power supply next to
it
-
Chuck, KE9UW
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Help
You can cure that condition by installing the VCOSHLDMD from Elecraft.
It adds a mu-metal shield around T5 so the transformer core is not
modulated by the magnetic field from the power supply transformer.
If you do install that mod, first adjust the T5 turns spacing and then
put the shield aro
I got bad TX hum when I temporarily place my K2 on top of a 35A Astron power
supply. Seemed to be from the transformer's leaked magnetic field and went
away if I lifted the K2 just an inch or two. I'm sure I posted about it in
the reflector, but that was pushing 20 years ago. My call might
Dave
So where is the optimum place to place the ferrites for this antenna if you
have a problem like Alan described?
Does the near field extend roughly to half the stacking distance of that
antenna (i.e. 6 feet or so), making that the best place for the ferrites?
Does a mostly vertical coax
Mike -
You can view the Schematic diagrams (6 pages) for the Elecraft KIO3B module.
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/E740323%20K3s%20Schematic%20Files.pdf
The KIO3B is a multi-function module, that includes these functions:
1. RF Board interface
2. Digital I/O interface
3. Audio I/
Hello Alan
That was my antenna design. It has a teflon coax 1/2 wave balun that
kills RF on the shield side of the coax, but there is not much you can
do about near field energy getting picked up by the outside of the coax
due to radiation. It is best to tape the coax down snugly along the
b
Two comments –
The idea behind the 10 year life batteries in sealed detectors is that the
battery and the sensor element both need to be retired at the 10 year point.
It is not a good idea to put new batteries in any detector at around the 10
year point as the sensor needs replacement, too.
W
Hello all
I'm looking to buy a used K3 in the UK. Must be fully operational and must
include the USB rear connection. Not fussed about other options and would be
happy with 10w or 100w rig, with or without ATU. A K3S would also be
acceptable, if the price is affordable !
Please drop me a line off
We have a 2-step solution to this continuing issue:
1) Install 10 year lithium ion batteries as Kent recommends, and
2) Remove kids. All of them.
Done.
73
Lyn, W0LEN
EE (Experienced Empty-nester)
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mai
I am thinning out my Elecraft collection and have the following items for sale.
I am in the UK.
KX1
KX1 Transceiver (Serial No. 00262)
KXAT1 ATU
KXB30 30m metre board giving coverage on 80m, 40m & 30m
KXPD1 Paddle
£400 + Postage at cost
KX2
KX2 Transceiver (S/N: 2590) with fitted ProA
I second the motion to replace ALL the older smoke detectors, not only in YOUR
home BUT IN YOUR CHILDREN’S HOMES! My daughters husband is not that bright and
I replaced all their smoke detectors and monitor them when we visit. They live
in a 112 year old run down mansion (fire trap) with kids
Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 6 Meter
antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? Maybe
not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.
--
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