I am trying to tace a 2 x S point loss in my receiver. I want to remove the
digital filter to remove that as a possibility. What pins on the control
board do I put the jumpers - I cannot find this in the manual. I am off on
holiday to Spain tomorrow and will take the K2 with me so that I
I brought in the full package (K2/100 ATU100, DSP, 160M SSB). The Customs
actually rung me up to find out what it was. The expensive package may have
attracted their attention but it did reduce the shipping and postage.
However it worked out that dollars in the States arrive as pounds
I am pleased to tell you all that I made my first contact yeaterday for 15
years. I became deaf over night and immediately packed up Amateur Radio. One
year ago I decided to try and start again and bought the K2 kit, with all
the accessories (except Transeverters).
My first contact was
Thanks Dudley - My mate carried out a series of test (when he heard I had
gone deaf) and he reckons (surprisingly) that the thumb is the most sensitive
spot. There are others places I can think of but unfortuneately some of them
were damaged at the same time as my hearing nerves when
I am interested in determining which earphone (or speaker) would have the
highest physical movement. I am deaf and intend to read morse by feeling the
vibration. Once I have found the earphone/speaker, I then have another
problem. I suspect I will have to find the K2's best audio that
Thank you one and all for your prompt and helpful replies.
To sum them up -
1. It will be bad news if I remove the paper from a loudspeaker - it will
stop working.
2. A visual method of reading morse would be helpful but I would rather use
vibration, but visual and vibration would probable
I have enjoyed reading the problems of others but now its 'the winter of my
discontent' as they say.
I've successfully built the K2, KSB, 160 converter, DSP and finished the ATU
(needs testing and not connected). I am now finishing the K100
I have got to the end of the test where one fires
I have a pair of wire strippers - they are shaped like nail clippers but are
flexible and therefore limited the amount of pressure such that it cuts
through the varnish but not the wire.
However I also use heat - not enough to burn off but sufficient to make the
varnish brittle.
Withe the
Bear in mind that many of the chassis screws are used to secure 'earthing
joints'. The use of a lubricating oil or copper slip will indeed reduce
electolytic corrosion but may well also introduce some resistance, as all
lubricating oils/greases will leave a thin skin even under pressure.
9 matches
Mail list logo