I was once involved in durable goods retailing --
mid to high end bicycles in this case. It was
not uncommon for customers to get hung up between
the bicycle they wanted to buy and the bicycle
they thought they "should" buy. This was usually
triggered by price. I told them that unless
spen
True, when I decided on the Eagle over the K3, I added the price of
similar accessories
that I would want to each radio to determine total cost. The K3 came
out slightly
more expensive, but most of the difference was the sales tax on the
Elecraft.
BTW, I'm ordering a K3 as we speak!
The thing
Hi All,
This seems to come up a lot, and I always have to wonder how such a question
can be effectively answered, at least convincingly. The problem is that
everyone has different wants and needs. Also, just about every radio out
there is significantly different in various ways, whether it's
Nice example here;
vk4tux
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tony Estep
Sent: Thursday, 5 April 2012 1:26 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy - BUT somewhat off topic
On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 10:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> If you are able to achieve a linear 1 dial division equals 1 kHz
> calibration for that dial, please let me know what capacitor you used...
===
Naw, that's not what I meant. I just loved the cool way the dial itself
worked an
Tony,
If you are able to achieve a linear 1 dial division equals 1 kHz
calibration for that dial, please let me know what capacitor you used
and other parameters involved - I have two of those National Dials in
the jumkbox/
It is typical that dial could be read in 1 kHz increments given that
On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 9:49 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> My first "world class" receiver was a National HRO5TA1 from the early
> 1940's.
===
The HRO receivers had that fantastic dial with the planetary vernier gizmo
inside and the numbers peeking through the holes -- to me, that was
My first "world class" receiver was a National HRO5TA1 from the early
1940's. It came to me via another Ham in the mid 50's. By the mid 1960's the
HRO was in need of some work. In those days resistors drifted, capacitors
leaked and tubes grew weak and gassy. But I had no manual. So I wrote the
Nati
B1VBF
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
- Original Message -
From: "Don Wilhelm"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Which ONE rig would I buy?
> Dave,
>
> I have to agree. My rig prior to the K2 was a Yaesu FT-900AT. I th
Dave,
I have to agree. My rig prior to the K2 was a Yaesu FT-900AT. I think
that rig is one of Yaesu's best kept secrets - good performance in a 100
watt class transmitter and good receive performance. Removable front
panel - but the buttons and knobs were quite close together. When I
bui
I have to fully agree on both points.
When I bought my K3 I kept hearing all the comments about the density of
the knobs on the front panel, so I actually did a comparison to my old
756Pro. I measured the area of each front panel and divided by the
number of knobs and buttons. Guess what ...
My hands are not small and the K3 has plenty of spacing between its
buttions and knobs that inadvertent contact is due to my sloppy reach
rather than an issue with the K3. Like any other radio it does take
some time to learn well. The menus are for configuration and once you
have it working as yo
Hi Bob-
That is a dilemma for sure. I enjoy building and assembling as much as
operating so the K3, P3 and KPA500 and K2/100 are all contenders. Too many
controls and many menus are a hassle so the K3 lessens its appeal to me. The
ORION II is the perfect size, I can actually can get my fingers
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