Is the K3 capable of using an RF probe similar to the K2? Do you get an RF
probe with the K3 like you do with the K2? Can one be added to the order if
not? How much is it?
73, Jim KG0KP
Jim,
Elecraft sent me the diagram of the RF-probe in an e-mail.If you want to
have it, just send me
Did you ever get a chance to measure the voltage at pins 6 and 8 on your
connection to the Reference board?
On Mon, 2008-07-14 at 01:15 -0700, OE5CSP-Chris wrote:
Is the K3 capable of using an RF probe similar to the K2? Do you get an RF
probe with the K3 like you do with the K2? Can one
The same RF probe can be handy doing some troubleshooting if it ever becomes
necessary. The K3 does not come with one as its not an essential/integral part
of
the radio as it is in building the K2. An inexpensive kit is availble through
Elecraft by contacting their sales department.
Speaking from personal experience you have to order the RF Probe kit
separately. It is the one that comes with the K2 and it costs $10.00 as
of 3 weeks ago.
Ed W0SD
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
Test send.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Need to do some signal tracing on my K2. The xmit is not working correctly. I
need either the completed RF probe or the 1N34A diode shown in the manual for
troubleshooting. My local radio shack does not carry the diode. Buying online
would be very costly
Gary,
Elecraft offers the RFPROBE kit for $10. That may be better than making
a special order to Mouser or other supplier - BUT, a ham who does any
building at all should be able to order a list of parts from the 'wish
list' and place a sizable order, making the shipping a small percentage
Gary,
Turn your manual to the Troubleshooting Appendix - look at page 10 near
the end and you will find the PLL and VCO circuits will provide you with
some checks for your RF Probe.
73,
Don W3FPR
Gary Montalbine wrote:
I have a RF probe. However I am not sure it is working. It did not seem
Thanks all for the response. My RF probe works at TP1 and the PLL and
VCO circuits. U8 was where I had no voltage and was unsure of the probe.
Need to check further.
Gary, WA4SZI
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary,
Turn your manual to the Troubleshooting Appendix - look at page 10 near
the end and
Gary,
I must be misreading something or you had a typo. RF Board U8 is a
voltage regulator - you will not find any RF there.
73,
Don W3FPR
Gary Montalbine wrote:
Thanks all for the response. My RF probe works at TP1 and the PLL and
VCO circuits. U8 was where I had no voltage and was unsure
Basic problem was engage mind before typing. High DC voltage at U8 and
no RF voltage at pin 4 of U10. Low RF voltage at pin 6 of U9. Wanted to
make sure my RF probe was good before continuing. It has been many years
since I have messed with electronic circuits.I may be back at the Novice
Gary does not work weekends, and you can likely have it isolated by then.
If you have no output from U10-4, then how about the input at pin 1?
That should be the BFO signal fed to the transmit mixer. (you do have
the KSB2 plugged in correctly do you not?). The only other signal that
must be
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary does not work weekends, and you can likely have it isolated by then.
If you have no output from U10-4, then how about the input at pin 1?
That should be the BFO signal fed to the transmit mixer. (you do have
the KSB2 plugged in correctly do you not?).
Pin 1 also
Gary,
You should have signal at U10 pin 1 but you don't - you had a signal at
the BFO output if I recall correctly, so something is broken between
those two points.
Since you jumpered the KSB2 headers correctly, leave things that way for
now.
Set the K2 to TUNE and recheck to be certain
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary,
You should have signal at U10 pin 1 but you don't - you had a signal at
the BFO output if I recall correctly, so something is broken between
those two points.
Since you jumpered the KSB2 headers correctly, leave things that way for
now.
Set the K2 to TUNE and
Gary,
Possibly Q24 could need replaced, but it is too quick to judge.
Certainly V ALC is not up to the normal DC level - BTW, that listed
voltage is nominal for a setting of 5 watts out with the K2 actually
delivering 5 watts. Since you have no power out, the voltage on V ALC
should be quite
PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF probe diode question
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1N91 is germanium, like the 1N34.
But while 1N34 is a small-signal diode, 1N91 is a power rectifier. That
means a lot more
In a message dated 11/26/06 7:41:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I measured the forward voltage drops on various junkbox
diodes and the 1N91's show about 0.11 V. This seems even *lower* than
what I expect from a 1N34. Any reason not to use a 1N91 for this?
1N91
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1N91 is germanium, like the 1N34.
But while 1N34 is a small-signal diode, 1N91 is a power rectifier. That means
a lot more capacitance and back leakage. I don't know if that will matter.
I found a 1N45. That is pretty similar to a 1N34, so I'll use it. The
drop
When I lived in Luxembourg I found a solid plastic cased thing that has two
banana plugs which mate with a DMM and a BNC jack. With a BNC male connector
suitable for a probe's RG-174 cable it is easy to change probes without
moving banana plugs, and soldering to banana plugs is not an issue.
On 6/16/06, Jesse Nicky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be
connected with rg 174 coax ??
The use of coax is AFAIK* to prevent the probe from picking up stray
RF energy from the powered up radio under test. The banana plugs are
Hi Jesse,
just read your post re the RF probe.
Your questions concerning the use of banana plugs are already answered so I'll
have a go at the braid unraveling question.
I'm using a very small copper brush. It looks like a toothbrush but the brushes
are made of copper wire.
After having cut
With smaller cables like RG174 (or even RG58) I sometimes do what Glenn,
ON4WIX does, using a brush or fine pointed tool to unweave the braid.
Most often I use another technique that does *not* require un-weaving the
braid. I cut the jacket back and then use a fine pointed tool to push the
I find that the shield is not particularly flexible and soon breaks
and unravels. With RG-174, just cut the shield back, leaving approx.
1/16 exposed beyond the outer wrapper. Wrap a flexible piece of
stranded hookup wire around the exposed shield and solder it to the
shield. Cover the exposed
Another classic way of using coax braid, is to push the braid back up the
central conductor, after removing the outer vinyl jacket. Once you bunch
the braid, it spreads out and you can use a sharp pointed tool to make a
hole by spreading the crossed strands. Using the pointed tool or a hook
Larry N8LP wrote
[Original Message]
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 06:29:45 -0400
be 100V ( 70.7v RMS) across a 50 ohm load at 100W. A series pair of
1N5711 Schottky diodes should give you 140V PIV, which should be safe.
The drop will still be quite low... lower than a single silicon diode,
but
Don,
All it takes is a 0.01uf capacitor, a 1N34 diode, and a 4.7 megohm resistor
plus some wire and plugs to fit your DMM. There is a circuit diagram in the
troubleshooting section of the K2 manual, just download the manual from the
Elecraft site and search for 'RF Probe Assembly'.
If you want
26 matches
Mail list logo
