[Elecraft] Use more heat - soldering technique caution
I would like to caution newcomers and first time builders on the turning the knob on your new adjustable soldering station (e.g. Pace, Haako, Weller, Metcal) to achieve more heat. There are actually THREE factors at work to have the proper amount of heat transferred to a joint for soldering (or removal of enamel from a wire) FIRST step is the heat setting on your solder station that is achieved by turning a temperature knob, selecting a Thermolock key or a specific temperature determined by the tip. This is the obvious step that everyone uses, and then forget the next two steps! SECOND step is actually more important, matching the type of joint to the profile of your iron's tip. This IS the step that is routinely missed or forgotten when soldering a kit with multiple joint types (e.g. surface mount, through leads on PC board, or external connectors). The normal iron tip profiles that are available are: screwdriver; single flat and conical. The length (normal at .60 and long length at 1.0 ) is another variable for density and location of the solder joint. I prefer screwdriver for through hole and single flat for wire stripping and some external connectors (e.g. switches) THIRD step is the size (mass) of that tip's profile. These vary from less than 1/32 to 1/4 or greater. For example, I am building W8ZR's current kit - its front panel assembly requires installing numerous toggle switches, dual row connection strips, resistors and LEDs. The issue for this particular assembly was not heat, but rather the varying mass of these soldering connections. For the resistors and LEDs, I used my standard 1/16 tip at 700 degrees (PTA7) with .020 solder. HOWEVER, for soldering the toggle switches, I changed to a 3/32 or 1/8 tip (PTB7 or PTC7)and .031 solder staying at 700 degrees. My dwell tip on the joint and soldering technique stayed the same. -- This problem of assembly technique is NOT unique to Elecraft builders or new soldering users. When I toured the 3Com Ethernet NIC assembly plant eight years ago, they were having quality problems with the external connectors (e.g. BNC, RJ-45 [8-pin]) on their network cards being assembled by automation. The cards were largely surface mount components being assembled in about 10 seconds with normal surface mount assembly techniques. The massive external connectors (in relation to the surface mount components) received the most stress (outside world and end users) on the card and were subject to marginal soldering joints would eventually fail. The problem was traced to the fact that these connectors were not receiving sufficient heat during the automated assembly process. Until the process was changed, manual rework (human hand soldering) was required on these connectors to assure a proper attachment/ connection to the board. So, in summary, when you are faced with a complex PC board type -- you will need to change your tips and maybe even the size of your solder -- no matter what type of soldering station (knob adjustable or not) you are using. Then why is the knob on these adjustable soldering stations? That answer has more to do with the various solder formulations being used today and new no lead solder formulations in response to no lead requirements (2006) and initiatives in Japan and Europe. Today's Tin / Lead formulations: eutectic 63/37 ratio at 361 F / 183 C or the popular 60/40 ratio at 374 F / 190 C are easily handled with tip temperatures in the 600 to 750 degree range. The new No Lead formulations will require additional heat and MORE attention to soldering techniques (example above). Some of the No Lead solder formulations that are currently available with higher melting temperatures are: Tin, Silver and Cooper ratio of 96.5/3.0/0.5 with 423 F / 217 C melting point or Tin and Copper ratio of 99.3/0.7 with a 440 F/227 C melting point. As you can see, this is a 65 to 80 degree difference -- and good soldering techniques will be very important. Greg Message: 6 Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 07:24:47 -0700 From: David Katinsky [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I want to second the importance of using enough heat. Initially, I tried to remove the enamel at my soldering temp of 750 and it did work, but took forever and was fairly frustrating. After deciding to move my temp up to 800 for this process, it was literally 5x faster and easier. David N2RDT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Use more heat - soldering technique caution
A list member pointed out my omission of silver solder with is also a lead free formulation. Silver Solder (SnAg) with a Tin/Silver ratio of 96.5 / 3.5 (eutectic ratio) melts at 430 F / 221 C Pure Tin (Sn) melts at 450 F / 232 C . Properties of various solder alloys http://www.kester.com/en-US/technical/alloy.aspx w9gb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Use more heat - soldering technique caution
I would like to caution newcomers and first time builders on the turning the knob on your new adjustable soldering station (e.g. Pace, Haako, Weller, Metcal) to achieve more heat. EXCELLENT Discussion. As an experiment, try soldering two small (#24) copper (untinned) wires together with the highest setting. You can see the rosin burn up and not clean the copper and the solder does not stick. With the correct temperature the rosin will wet the surface, then the boiling flux (rosin) cleans off the oxide layer on the copper. After the oxide layer has been removed, the solder adheres to the CLEAN copper. The flux has vaporized (boiled away) and the two components are bonded (soldered) together. Thus, if to hot the rosin boils away before cleaning the copper or ends up as burnt black specs around the joint (when really hot!). You also risk burning the PCB because of the high temperature. If to cold the rosin does not properly clean the joint and also is not boiled away and you end up with a poor joint or with blobs of rosin around the joint. You also risk burning the PCB because it takes to long to make the connection. This is why you don't need to remove the flux on a properly soldered connection. Rich, KE0X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N1MM
Hello Bob. I'm also using a wireless connection with a card in my old IBM 380ED and like yours, it works quite well. You didn't say what version of Logger you were using but I'm guessing that as far as parallel port keying goes that it does not (or at least should not) make any difference. You must be using XP or 2000 since you said that you installed the port program. The only thing I can come up with would be to make sure the Other block is checked in the Logger set-up - just opposite the LPT port that you have selected - AND - that the proper CW/Ptt Port Address is entered in the window. I recall reading that for some systems the Logger default value for the port address is not correct. You should be able to look at your hardware set-up on the computer to see what the address is for the LPT port that you are trying to use and then enter that value in the window. Next, I would remove the laptop from the port replicator and then use a vom/dmm to check for keying action right at the parallel port on the computer (usually pin 17) to verify (or not verify) changes in the state of the port output. This would eliminate any problems that might be inherent in the port replicator or the keying interface you are using. I'm probably way out on the limb here (gulp) but I'm guessing that it will turn out to be either the Other check or that the selected LPT port address is not correct. Try a post on the N1MM group reflector. I'll bet the group will come up with a number of other ideas. Sure hope you get this solved. It can become intensely frustrating quickly! With the K2 really gaining popularity for contesting finding solutions to these problems is of interest to lots of us. 73 --don n4hh - Original Message - From: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Donald Nesbitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 5:03 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N1MM Hi Don Thanks for the note. I'm using an IBM 770 thinkpad laptop (233 MHz P?), running Windows 2000 Professional. I have a docking station for it so have both the serial and LPT ports easily accessible. I prefer to let the docking station take the wear and tear on connectors, and protect the laptop. My internet connection is via a wireless link to my Comcast cable modem. My shack is out in the garage and this was the easiest way to get the connection. This laptop has worked very well with TR Log, using the LPT port for keying. I have an adapter by W1WEF that provides the keying closure output to the rig, and I was assured by him that it work ok with N1MM Logger as well. So far I'm not getting any closure out of it however. I believe it is a simple transistor switch, much like the drawing in the Logger manual, packaged in a connector that mates with LPT. I have installed the dlportio.zip, but haven't seen any results from it. I've gone over the available settings, but there must be something that I've missed so far. I did finally find an obscure note that Win2K does not have Monitor cw in computer speaker ability. I hope that can be fixed along the way. Anyway, right now I'm stumped. I have good serial communication with the K2, with telnet spots showing up on the bandmap, and the rig following clicks on the band map or in telnet. The bandmap arrow follows the tuning of the K2, as well as band changes, so I'm satisfied serial comunication is ok. 73, Bob N6WG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.744 / Virus Database: 496 - Release Date: 8/24/04 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 - 4039 Aligning with Spectrogram questions.
Hi, Thanks to everyone for there feedback regarding my bassy audio. I have now downloaded Spectrogram and read N0SS's K2_SSB_Gram notes (17/01/2001). I struggled a bit to find the correct settings with the latest version of Spectrogram but have made a start with the following settings Sample 22k Mono Scope 2 Plot type signal Averaging 1second Spectrum DB/hz max 30 Freq linear Fft 2048 Freq res 10.8 High band Limit 2570 Low band Limit 0 My K2 #4039 is using the unmoded 2.2 (Revison D, Jan 8, 2004) SSB filter I do get some vaguely sensible graphs(!) But I have a few questions! 1. Are these spectrogram setting optimal? 2. What upper and lower frequency markers should I use? 3. Mention is made in another doc of placing a 10Ohm resistor to ground if using the headphone output (as I am) do I need to do this if so where should the resistor be placed? Or should I use the speaker output? 4. Any other suggested documents hints etc? Thank you very much!! I just want to get my K2 set up nicely and work some of you guys!! Regards Nicolas www.m1hog.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.744 / Virus Database: 496 - Release Date: 24/08/2004 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop
Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I built the one from Sam Ulbing, N4UAU. It was written up in QST as My All-Purpose Voltage Booster. He sells the kit for a very reasonable price. You can find him on the web under his call. I've not having any luck finding Sam's site with Google, nor via the QRZ reference, and it's been that way for at least a couple of weeks. I have a couple of his kits, and they work well. 73, doug ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Electronics Club - Time to pass the knowledge torch
Elecrafter's : Well its that time of year again, and school has started. Middle schools, high schools and youth organizations (e.g., 4-H, Boy Scouts, Girl Scouts) often look to their communities for assistance in developing experiential learning programs and knowledgeable volunteers. Electronics and computers are often at the top of the lists for external assistance by these educational organizations. If your assistance is asked for, one of the biggest stumbling blocks that you may face is gathering the proper educational materials or developing actual projects for these organizations or groups. One web site that I would highly recommend is the Electronics Club web page. This web page was designed by Mr. J. Hewes for the students (pupils) at the Kelsey Park School (UK) Electronics Club - Kelsey Park School http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/index.htm The AmQRP / Norcal Keyer Kit is also a possible kit for educational usage http://www.amqrp.org/kits/NCKeyer/index.html I already received my request from a new middle school teacher 2 weeks ago ! Greg w9gb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop
Vivisimo.com usually works a lot better for me as a search engine. Plugged it in there and it came back with N4UAU's home page which is down and this link straight to details of the power supply: http://tinyurl.com/5wjrh Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I built the one from Sam Ulbing, N4UAU. It was written up in QST as My All-Purpose Voltage Booster. He sells the kit for a very reasonable price. You can find him on the web under his call. I've not having any luck finding Sam's site with Google, nor via the QRZ reference, and it's been that way for at least a couple of weeks. I have a couple of his kits, and they work well. 73, doug ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop
Well, DANG! If I'd finish a message before hitting SEND it'd help. Since N4UAU's site is down, you can get the schematic and lots of info (a LOT of info if you speak French) here: http://tinyurl.com/5f943 It's the complete construction info in French but the schematic is in English. Also, other references say the circuit was published in QST in 1997. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop
Sam can be reached at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or you can find him any morning at 0700 Eastern on 7050 - Waterway CW Net. Paul K1PT - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 2:59 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop Vivisimo.com usually works a lot better for me as a search engine. Plugged it in there and it came back with N4UAU's home page which is down and this link straight to details of the power supply: http://tinyurl.com/5wjrh Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I built the one from Sam Ulbing, N4UAU. It was written up in QST as My All-Purpose Voltage Booster. He sells the kit for a very reasonable price. You can find him on the web under his call. I've not having any luck finding Sam's site with Google, nor via the QRZ reference, and it's been that way for at least a couple of weeks. I have a couple of his kits, and they work well. 73, doug ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RF Hash from IBM Laptop
BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS! This advice is specific to a single product form one manufacturer. Each laptop manufacturer has different battery maintenance circuitry, and they operate off different voltages, usually NOT 13.8V! Input voltages tend to vary between 12 v and 30 v depending on manufacturer. As an example, Apple PowerBooks and iBooks need about 25 volts. Applying 20V to a 12V input WILL cause undesired effects. Applying 12V to an 18V input MAY cause undesired effects. Also, be sure that any power adapter you use will provide enough power to run the laptop. Laptop power supplies started out at about 20 watts many years ago, and generally run around 45-65 watts these days. I would STRONGLY advise that anyone wanting to run their laptop from a 12V battery source purchase a commercial power adapter for their laptop. These are available from many sources, including your local neighborhood computer store. On Aug 29, 2004, at 11:14 AM, Bob Tellefsen wrote: Hi don I have two laptops here, and both can be run from an external battery source. HOWEVER, I need to run them through a small inverter to bring the voltage up to around 13.8v. I checked this with my variable voltage bench power supply to find out where the laptop switched from external power to internal. It is usually above normal battery voltage by 1-2 volts, hence the small inverter. I built the one from Sam Ulbing, N4UAU. It was written up in QST as My All-Purpose Voltage Booster. He sells the kit for a very reasonable price. You can find him on the web under his call. I used mine on Field Day, and it was extremely quiet. Not a trace of hash anywhere. A side benefit in running on batteries in the field is that the converter is regulated. As the input voltage drops, the output stays pretty near constant. This would not be a problem in the shack with a fixed supply. I suggest you check your laptop using a variable voltage power supply and find out how low you can go before it switches over to the internal battery. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Jack Brindle, WA4FIB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem
I finally got my problems with N1MM Logger sorted out, only to find that my keying adapter doesn't produce the expected results. I have a pair of 1N4148 silicon diodes going from the Logger key line to each of the dit and dah lines to the K2. The cathode of each diode goes to the common Logger keying line. My paddles connect directly to the dit and dah lines for paddle keying. The K2 is set to InP PdLn and works fine with the paddles. If I put a closure on the keying line from Logger, though, I get a continuous di-da-di-da-di-da-di. If I set the K2 input to handkey, and connect the Logger key line directly, it works just fine. The K2 is suposed to detect simultaneous closures on the dit and dah lines, and interpret that as a hand key input. Not doing it so far. When I turn on the K2, the firmware versions displayed are 2.03d and 1.07. Anyone have any ideas on how to get this working? Should I be using Germanium diodes instead? 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: KAF2 Versus 2.2 kHz KSB2
Hello Paul, I'll refer you to a previous post that I made concerning this. My implementation is definitely not a pretty sight though; I quickly tossed the circuit together, and it sort of 'lays' inside the K2 (protected with electrical tape, of course:-)). Someday I'll get around to making a neat job of it, but a bit too busy at the moment. However, the info can be found here: http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-10/msg00581.html If you have any questions, I'll try to help. 73, Dale WA8SRA Paul Rubin wrote: I like the characteristics of the passive filter used on the KAF2, so I removed the components and used them to build the same circuit which I placed at the output of my KDSP2 module. This sounds very interesting. I would like to know more. Did you have any problems with shielding to minimize noise pickup? Where did you mount the components? I would really like to see a picture of this if you have one available. Thanks, Paul Rubin N8NOV K1 #1494 K2 #3269 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem
The K2 is suposed to detect simultaneous closures on the dit and dah lines, and interpret that as a hand key input. Not doing it so far. When I turn on the K2, the firmware versions displayed are 2.03d and 1.07. Bob: Select - Menu, InP - then - PdLn, Now tap DISPLAY. You should briefly see AdEt and either OFF or On. Select On. Then exit the menu (tap any other key. Rich, KE0X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 ALC Anomaly Using PTT
Anyone who uses a K2/100 with a linear needs to know that the K2 ALC does not kick in if PTT is used and the K2 display is in the RF mode. This can cause the input to the linear to be overdriven. This condition can also cause the K2 output not to be linear. It is necessary to put the K2 in ALC mode to activate the ALC in PTT. Once the ALC has been activated, it can be changed back to the RF mode. If the K2 display is in the RF mode when using PTT, it is necessary to access the ALC mode each time the sideband or band is changed. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] External Keying Auto-Detect problem
Well, the mystery is solved. I had not realized there was an on/off menu choice for the auto-detect function. Two hams told me about it, and yes, it did the trick. Now in business, and I can get back to trying to learn N1MM Logger. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted
Hakko also makes an excellent soldering station too! I have that device also and after using the RS for both the K-2 and KX1, then buying the Hakko, I would love to have done them both with these tools. I have done some updates with using both and what a breeze. Once I get the QTH moved I will do some more updates and maybe even build the K-1! Bill K9YEQ KX1 (FT - #35), K2 (FT - #35) -Original Message- Bear in mind that the Hakko 808 is a DEsoldering station, not a soldering station. It is WAY better than the manual solder-suckers out there; you just have to be willing to cough up the bucks. 73, Bob WA4FOM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 10M SSB distortion
Thanks to the help of Gary at Elecraft and Stewart Baker and Stuart Rohre, the problem with 10 meter SSB distortion is fixed. Grounding the shell of the mike socket to the circuit board ground did the trick. The modification is on the Elecraft web page at: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/k2_microphone_jack_grounding.htm For some reason I overlooked this, but it does make a difference. Thanks also to my wife who sat reading a book aloud into the boom mike while I did audio checks on a radio upstairs. Thanks all, Andy W9NJY K2 SN 2651 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 PA100. I hate it when I am stupid.
Well finished the 100 watt PA tonight and did not spend as much time checking components as I should have :( All resistance checks where good and everything checked out (fan, swr cal, ect) until I got to the point where I powered the K2 radio from the high current supply. I detected a crackle on power and shut it down to check. All looked OK so I tried it again. Seemed OK and everything looked good with current draw but the bias would not adjust at all. Just stayed around 600. So I started doing resistance checks and across the power plug it was several hundred ohms and not 10K it should have been. This checked OK originally without power. So I start lifting components to narrow it down and I get back to U7 and if I had looked in the first place, I would have noticed I put it in backwards sigh So upon removal the resistance across the power plug is back to normal. I am sure U7 it toast since the resistance was OK before power and not after. Can someone tell me if there is anything else I should order when I do? Maybe Q5? That is what you get when you dont follow directions ! 73, Rich kdozv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for Aug 30th, 2004
ECN/2 was held on 7045 kHz after an abortive start on 7044 kHz. The Run for the Bacon was in full swing so we had number of Flying Pigs root us up. I guess I could have given them my pig number but they might have gotten their snouts bent out of shape since I was running 100 watts :) Never can tell what wild porcine mischief they might come up with to fry my bacon! The QRN was a bit worse than on 20 meters but that is pretty normal for 40 meters this time of year. Oh, Dave is not jetting back and forth across the nation between nets! He was not in Florida but in Texas for ECN/1. I will repair my notes. He also decided to try checking in two Elecraft rigs during one net. Now I am going to have to fix the database to demonstrate these types of occurrences :) The list: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 W6KY - Art - CA - K1 - 141 Now an official NCS of ECN W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 KL7V/5 - Sam - OK - K2 - 3158 NE5DL - Dave - TX - K2 - 2887 W0NTA - Dick - CO - K2 - 3900 W4YN - Tim - NC - stray pig AC0S - Colin - CO - K2 - 2833 NE5DL - Dave - TX - K1 - 817 WA7THK - Perry - MI - stray pig K5VJZ - Tom - LA - K2 - 4279 Thanks go out to Tom and to Art for helping call the net this evening. As always any errors are mine and will be fixed upon report of an error. Thank you all for stopping by on a noisy evening. See you next week. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 enthusiast wonders ??
Scott Richardson wrote ... The K1 zenith appears to have passed. Hi Scott, I don't think this is the case. The K1 was an amazingly mature product when it first appeared in Fall 2000. By this I mean that it performed its intended functions well and had very few bugs. Rigs with problems get the most discussion and modifications and backfits. ... I also consider the 4-band board and antenna tuner to be essential K1 accessories. I do too. In particular, I can't imagine why anyone would order a two-band K1. There is still a place for the two-band filter boards, however. Build a 40/30/20/15m four-band K1, and then add a 80/17m two-band board to give you all six official K1 bands. At this stage, I would be much less enthusiastic about a 2-band K1 sans tuner. I don't think that such standard can compete with the KX1. To be fair, the KX1 *must* be contrasted to a four-band K1. As I went to some length to detail in a posting several days ago, the K1's performance as a CW ham band only radio is better than that of the KX1 in a significant number of areas. The KX1 is, however, a good radio and is cuter than the K1 to some, for what that's worth. As far as Elecraft's support of the K1 is concerned, the only HF bands not supported are 160 meters (ok, that's MF), and 12 and 10 meters. I suspect only a few are interested in 160m QRP, and fewer of those are likely to be trying it from portable locations. I also suspect that the performance of a 602-based receiver such as in the K1 on 12 and 10 meters would be less than stellar, though I could be wrong. With the declining sunspot cycle, the matter grows academic for the time being. I'm left wondering what other support Elecraft could show for the K1. I can only think of a few minor items: (1) Update the K1 manual to eliminate the last few errors that are contained in the last revision of almost three years ago. One error in particular results in help requests to this list, even though all are covered in the errata sheet. (2) Correct the Elecraft website's K1 quick reference guide to eliminate the erroneous info shown for the NB and INP functions that have been there for almost three years. (3) Update the KBT1 and K1 RF-PCB design so that the KBT1 can be removed by disconnecting from a connector on the RF-PCB. (4) Provide a simple permanently mounted front panel lifting bail in lieu of the complex KTS1. (5) Provide LCD display backlight. (6) Provide any components required for 80m operation that aren't installed on a 80m filter board as standard parts for all K1s (such as RF-RFC8 and RF-C78). (7) Provide PCB circuit trace diagrams in the manual. I'm not interested in power amps, SSB mods, transverters, etc., even if they were practical for the K1. For that there's the K2. In my opinion, overall the K1 is still the best small QRP CW portable rig made by anyone. 73, Mike / KK5F K1 no. 175 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 DDS
Steve wrote: ... how about a K1 design using the DDS of the KX1, full coverage and the options of the K1 I really like Dave Benson's pioneering work in QRP rig design by using a DDS chip to *directly* generate the receiver local oscillator and the transmitter oscillator frequencies for mono-band rigs five years ago (I own the DSW-20, -30, and -40 rigs). The KX1 does basically the same thing in a great three-band design with added functional versatility. The frequency stability and agility are fantastic. But there are some disadvantages to using a DDS in these functions in terms of generated spur frequencies that degrade receiver performance and transmitter spurious output specs. Power consumption for a DDS chip can be significant, though I think Elecraft has a minimal power use chip in the KX1. Most low cost, low power DDS chips don't like to be clocked over 50 MHz, with an output frequency of about one-third that, so it is difficult to generate clean output for ham bands higher than 20 meters. In addition, DDS tuning is step-wise versus the continuous tuning of an LC VFO. I'm happy that the K1 design uses the cleaner LC VFO and crystal hetrodyne oscillator approach to generate the operating frequency. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Looking for Assembled NGen
I need an NGen and wonder if anyone has one that is assembled? If so, contact [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] with the price. Thanks 72, Ron WA5VFA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
