Joshua,
You are already planning to hang the G5RV so can you put up a 20-foot
pole at the far end? That provides lots of bands and cost little
extra. The 2m/70cm vertical sounds fine.
You could load the tower as a vertical with a tuner. One way is to
run a vertical wire up to the tower
I have tried a number of different things over the years. I have finally
settled on a 3 element Steppir. I got it used and paid half the cost of new,
so it was not exorbitant. With a little care they can be made to function as
good as new.
The 3 element stepper and K3 are a potent mix. I
The 15 m Novice band was the band of choice for me back in the day. I wasn't
sophisticated enough to have a HW 16. I worked those contacts with a DX 60 and
an HR 10. I too, had a home brew 15 meter Yagi but it was aluminum, no wood!
How far have we come! Unfortunately, i couldn't fire up the K3
Hard to believe that MFJ antenna is an efficient radiator. My balcony is
fairly large and I have a fan dipole on it, supported in the center and one
end with 8 ft long 3/4 EMT tubing in paint buckets filled with gravel, and
at the other end by the partition separating my balcony from my
My problem is I would not be able to put down the Jack Reacher novel
Tex
KA5Y
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Hi fellow Elecrafters,
is there a shippinglist for the KX3-2m-Transverter available?
73 de Hans, DF5SR
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Post:
Me too! For me it was 1957 - the peak of the best sunspot cycle ever.
Every morning before going to school I was in my cellar ham shack
working my way through the rest of the world on 21.1+ with a DX-20, a
dipole, an HQ-100, and a QTH right at the ocean's edge. DXing like
shooting fish in a
Hello
Sorry for bothering with maybe stupid task...
My daddy called me this morning that he has no audio on his K2 from
internal speaker. When he plug in the phones it works. (Yda evening int.
spkr worked too)
Is it the problem of switching contact inside of the Phones socket on
the front
I wonder which bands Dave G. plans to work?
Phil w7ox
On 5/25/14, 6:37 PM, David Patino wrote:
I have a MFJ 1622 and am on a 2nd floor
apartment. It actually works quite well clamped
to my balcony railing, as long as the
counterpoise is run out correctly. That's
actually the biggest problem
I can relate to all of this. And I cannot recall a
worse sunspot cycle than the one we have now.
Phil W7OX
On 5/26/14, 7:31 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
Me too! For me it was 1957 - the peak of the best sunspot cycle ever.
Every morning before going to school I was in my cellar ham shack
working
I wonder if the probability of being an future avid DXer depended upon
whether one was first licensed near a sunspot peak or sunspot minimum?
For me the working of a WH6 on 40M just before school was the clincher.
Ruined a bunch of FT-243 xtals trying to grind them down for near the
Novice 15
The 3 element is infinitely tunable and will give you near perfect
performance on all bands 40 and above.
You will need a rotor. You don't need a huge investment however, they
work well with the commonly available Ham IV rotors. Lots of reliable
and attractively priced used ones on the
Petr,
The most likely cause is the switch lever inside the headphone jack.
The switch is the 3 contacts closest to the rear of the K2 RF Board.
Replacement of the headphone jack is the normal fix (Elecraft PN E620028).
If you want to try a temporary fix (the speaker will be active all the
I resemble that slow code remark... As a relatively new licensee (about
14yrs), I never did much with CW other than pass the code element for
General. Lately I've been making an effort to get more proficient with
CW, as in haven't used a mic in at least 2 months other than a couple of
local
Apartment antenna ideas:
I knew of a guy in a second floor apartment that ran an end-fed long wire out
of his apartment deck railing. It was an almost invisible wire (from the
ground looking up into the sky) that ran out to a tree on the other side of the
parking lot. He would use the
Does anyone have the assembly instructions for the old Andrew L4NM N male
connector for Andrew ½ hardline. The L4NM is an obsolete connector and has
replaced by the L4NM-C. The connector I have has the separate silver pin
that is soldered to the end of the cable center conductor and then
Wanted: Elecraft PR6 or PR 6-10 preamp for K3.
Let me know what you have.
Brian K3USC (since 1962)
k3...@arrl.net
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For those hams who are still expressing interest in the K2 MAB you might want
to contact:
Doug Shields W4DAS
Stuart, Florida
I sent him all the information regarding this project as he expressed a desire
to take over the project due to my health issues.
73 thanks, Tom KG7CFC
--
Nobody
Hi Don,
Mni thanks! I am going to check it with daddy by phone call. Hope it
will not be anything worse...
He is nervous that his K2 is sick. :(
I will let You know abt results.
73 - Petr, ok1rp
On Mon, May 26, 2014, at 04:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Petr,
The most likely cause is the
I suspect I need a different mike than the old heil-pro headset. But
then, I better ask first.
The symptoms are that is I don't appear have any punch. I use cmp and
mic and get the ALC bars in the right places according to the manual.
I have adjusted TXG up to 3.
Still, when I am transmitting
I get good reports out of an old Kenwood MC-60 desk mic. I had one kicking
around from my Kenwood days and noticed it had an 8-pin mic connector, so
thought I'd give it a shot. Worked great with some minor adjustments.
Make sure the bottom switch for 'Mic Amp' is in the out position. A
Still, when I am transmitting SSB, the output is barely indicating 10%
of (A) a HARD whistle pr (B) CW
10% of Average, or Peak Envelope Power?
Are you using a PEP Watt meter?
73 Milverton.
On Monday, May 26, 2014 1:44 PM, Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us wrote:
I suspect
Since you're replacing a headset look for the Yamaha CM-500. They're
generally $60 or so at places like BH Photovideo, Sweetwater, Amazon,
etc. They are more comfortable than the old Heil Proset and half the
price. If you watch for sales they're even less (I replaced a ProSet
with two CM-500
Almost any microphone can be made to sound good on the K3. You just have
to play with the equalizer, gain, and comp settings. I recommend you
have a single trusted ham work with you on a closed band while making
your adjustments.
If you have more than one helper, they will argue about what
Bob,
I assume you are using the Heil ProSet with the HC4 or HC5 or HC6
element (which have quite low output) - if it is a ProSet-iC or the
ProSet-K2, you will need bias turned on (and ignore the following
paragraph).
You may have to use the Hi mic gain range with the HC4/5/6 microphone -
I wish I could say it works for me. It isn't a com port issue as those are
solid (I know what I am doing with RS232 and windows).
If I power off the AC power of the amp and then turn it on remotely it
doesn't work. It 'will' work after about 10-15 tries to wake it up.
So, to summarize:
KPA500
Mike;
I guess you didn’t get the email I sent yesterday asking for more information
from you about this topic. You might want to recheck for that email, there was
a lot of good information in it.
Please send me detailed info about your setup, with specifics on the ACC
connections and the data
Hi Michael,
From the way you are describing things, I would suspect you have a problem
somewhere other than the KPA500.
With my remote setup:
RS232, straight serial, no USB-to-serial
KPA500,
KPA500 software (not the utility), are you using this software? Here's a
link, scroll down about
My k2 already had the five keycap leds for xit rit split, zerobeat, transmit,
audio filter and Recieve antenna. Now I've gone and added some leds to the
inside of the front panel. Alpena lights I got from Autozone. It lets you see
where the buttons are in the dark. Its a totally useless mod
Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2
-- could be a trend.
On 5/26/2014 6:48 PM, John Cooper wrote:
My k2 already had the five keycap leds for xit rit split, zerobeat, transmit,
audio filter and Recieve antenna. Now I've gone and added some leds to the
Well,
I figured it out. It seems very fussy when you run it at PC baud rate of
19200. Once I changed it back to 38400 by connecting to the amp with
PUTTY, it seems much better behaved. On the initial first tests, on and
off work as advertised.
Mike va3mw
On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 4:49 PM,
On 5/26/2014 15:07, tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:
10% of Average, or Peak Envelope Power?
Are you using a PEP Watt meter?
A coaxial-dynamics WM with a 2500 slug
--
Bob KD7YZ
AMSAT LM 0901
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
Bob,
If you are measuring a 100 watt signal with a 2500 watt slug, you can
expect significant errors.
Even the Bird slugs (right after calibration) offer only a 5% of full
scale accuracy. With a 2500 watt slug, that means a possible error of
+/- 125 watts at any point on the scale.
For best
Hmm, George Barris as an Elecraft consultant? I'm thinking Kandy-Kolored
Tangerine-Flake Streamline Mojo...
John, KU4AF
Pittsboro, NC
Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2
-- could be a trend.
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