Does anyone (i.e. Elecraft) know the Auxbus protocol? And is the spec
available?
I beleive, in trying to find out why the 8R voltage is at 6.43v, I blew
the
MCU (controller board) AuxBUS output.
I only see pin 40 drop a few tens of millivolts during a band change
Mike,
The auxBus protocol is unique to Elecraft. I wrote the code, so I can
answer your questions. Too late tonight, but I'll e-mail you directly
tomorrow.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Apr 16, 2005, at 12:36 AM, Michael L. Hasenfratz Sr. wrote:
Does anyone (i.e. Elecraft) know the Auxbus
I've owned two Autek RF-1 ant analyzers and both work perfectly.
Handy to put in your shirt pocket and climb a tower or take with
you on vacation. Best piece of equipment I have ever owned
that has saved me countless hours of antenna experimentation.
I heard at one point they had a quality
A far safer method, Stephen, is to position a pin on one side of the
board, held there with your index finger. Apply the iron to the other
side of the board and as the solder melts gently push the pin through
the hole. This then leaves a hole into which the component can be
inserted.
73 de
Hello,
Since the temperature on Sunday in our area is going to be in the 70's.
I plan on going out on the Appalachian Trail for a few hours to work towards
my 500 QSO.
Look for me starting around 14:00 UTC. I will start out of 15 and 20 meters
to see if I can work into Europe. I will jump
I don't think drilling out a THP hole is a very good idea.
What I use is a wooden cocktail stick ( bought in lots of 1000 for a
quid from your local Pound Shop ) or a wooden toothpick that I have
previously preformed by gently pushing it through an empty THP hole
of the correct size.
I then
In a message dated 16/04/05 11:11:43 GMT Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What I use is a wooden cocktail stick ( bought in lots of 1000 for a
quid from your local Pound Shop ) or a wooden toothpick that I have
previously preformed by gently pushing it through an empty THP hole
are both junk...
It's really unfortunate that with the ham marketplace so small, that folks
feel the need to slam the few suppliers we have.
Certainly the Autek and MFJ units are not professional lab quality
material. The good news is, neither are most of us. I've used both, and
own
I also own an RF-1 and have been very pleased with it but found
Autek's customer service to be non-responsive and arrogant when they
did respond.
Bob Baxter AA7EQ
Walnut Ridge, Ar.
There's things I'd change about both units (particularly the customer
service at Autek. I asked if there was a
Francophone kit-builders will enjoy the site of F6BQU.
For some reason my posting is sent back if I paste the right address; but
you'll find him as lpistor using chez.tiscali.fr and then go to Entree du
site then la passion du radioamateurisme and mes realisations publiees dans
la presse
Michael,
An 8R voltage of 6.43 volts is an indication of something wrong there - it
should be about 7.5 volts, no lower than 7.35 volts.
Have you checked the input voltage (emitter) to Control Board Q2? (should be
8 volts unless the regulator output is low) and the base voltage (should be
about
I have an MFJ-259B...I have mixed feelings about it...I can not complain about
it's function, but I have had problems with the quality of the battery box and
with customer support...The battery box is an inexpensive black plastic affair
that holds ten AA cells...The combined tension of ten
After 25 years of using a home built noise bridge to tune antennas, I love
the MFJ 259B that my wife gave me for Christmas. It is a wonderful tool. I
have had no problems with mine. It does eat batteries though, and there are
a few on the list who remember Doug Hendricks, Dave Gauding and myself
In a message dated 4/16/2005 5:20:48 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
are both junk...
It's really unfortunate that with the ham marketplace so small, that folks
feel the need to slam the few suppliers we have.
I don't think you should be so hard on folks,
hi folks,
i dont need CW. So i think, i should change the keyerpotentiometer for a mike
gain control. my question: is this possible and in which place i can build it?
i think, it is possible at the plusside from C34 at the KSB2 SSB adapter. what
do anybody thinking about this?
73 de dg3oo
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
K1 internal speaker dead
After many months of use my internal speaker went
silent. I had seen K2 internal speaker dead
postings and guessed that the same component was used
in both radios.
I did not want to unsolder the headphone jack. My
solution was to put a jumper
I completed assembly of #4565 and all seemed well. I used Spectrogram to
perform CAL FIL using the N0SS article as a guide, but chose 650Hz as my
sidetone freq since I thought I preferred a slightly higher tone, and selected
100Hz
as FIL4 bandwidth. I completed the CAL FIL process, with
Bob, WO3E wrote:
So I selected 600 as the sidetone and tried to re-do CAL FIL. CW
NORMAL went well, and I got slightly different values than for 650 Hz, as
expected. Most of CW REVERSE seemed OK also - except for FIL1 and FIL4.
For FIL1,
the BFO parameter was EXACTLY the same as for CW
I apologize to those who found my statement Since the MFJ and the Autek
are apparently both junk to be excessively prickly. It was an unfair
thing for me to say.
Steve Kercel
AA4AK
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Just completed Test and Alignment Part 1 - and was
glad to see K2 4663 power-up without any sign of
smoke. Going through the various tests, however, I
received positive LCD feeback when the ATT/Preamp
button was pressed - but no corresponding chatter from
the relays. Every other function I have
Thanks for the suggestions. I followed them all. I
found some 27 AWG red enamel wire and re-wound RFC1
2, and I believe this is what fixed my problem. The
enamel on the wire that came with the KSB2 kit, seemed
to shear off with the sharp edges of the toroid cores,
and this may have been
Thanks, Ron. I did indeed have the BFO for FIL1 on CW-R on the wrong side.
I cranked the BFO parameter up toward the center value and beyond, and saw
another bandpass display (the right one) on Spectrogram. I had not
appreciated that you will get a similar display on either side of the
Hi Mike,
My K2's phone jack has been broken for over a year. I can't afford to
have it replaced. But your's should still be under warranty. Get it
replaced now. I am not sure how long they last though. I had an email
from Gary Surrency explaining what happens to the jacks and it sounds
I have talked with a number of Elecraft rig owners who have had the jack
go dead. I guess this news did not get disseminated on this list. All
were word of mouth or on the air comments. I also have heard the various
work arounds more than once. Some folks have just been luckier than
others
Please ignore my earlier posting. Resisting the
temptation to remove relays K1 -6 and -7 but being
obsessed with finding an answer to my problem, I
decided, instead, to scan the web (over a glass of
wine). Much to my surprise, AD5MQ's web page
described exactly the phenomenon I had experienced
Before the moderators close this thread down (or introduce their own kit!)
some thoughts from G - land.
For basic testing equipment the best route is definitely to go through
e-Bay and buy 10-15 years old professional equipment. The feel of this
generation is also like the K2, with a similar
Regarding the Autek antenna analyzers, M0RAC wrote Has anyone built a
sturdy
slow motion drive for the tuning? Let me know!
Here's one idea. Find the largest knob that will fit the little shaft and
the
space to the edge of the other knob.
This will give a modest improvement in tuning rate, due
Sadly, the Bluetooth serial port adapters all seem to require 45 mA
to 50 mA -- I checked several manufacturers. OK for the shack, not
so good for PDA or field use :-( OTOH, there are tons of USB
Bluetooth dongles that sell for under $20 -- even without rebates!
:-)
Go with the KISS
I guess that I should have asked this question a while ago, but is there
a polarity associated with those sub-mini RF chokes, the little
inductors that look like resistors?
The outline on the board has a pair of lines across it, slightly offset
from the midpoint.
I wonder if it means
Good Evening Folks,
The sun has finally come out in Northwestern Oregon. The antennas are
drying off so they may just radiate (listen) a bit better. Twenty and
forty meters need a little activity tomorrow night. I am unsure of
propagation conditions but this will prove a good test for
On Apr 16, 2005, at 6:59 PM, jon howe wrote:
I guess that I should have asked this question a while ago, but is
there a polarity associated with those sub-mini RF chokes, the little
inductors that look like resistors?
No. They are not polarized.
The outline on the board has a pair of
Yes, I'd like to have a CIA-HF. However, the company that made them
got bought out. As far as I know, they are no longer being
manufactured.
I don't know wether the CIA-HF has been discontinued, but similar
units are still being built:
http://www.garant-funk.com/frames.html
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