Hello all,
While checking my K2/100 before heading off on an IOTA trip (to OC-206
in August), to my amazement, I discovered that the receiver was dead. I
have tried to resolve the problem but so far have failed to fix it.
I appeal to the very knowledgeable folks here for assistance.
With technology available today I wonder if it would be possible to design a
2-stage tracking NB!
Just in the same manner as auto beat canceling.
I'm a better builder than designer , but can't help myself throwing out some
thoughts on this.
Stage 1 when turned on search and lock on the noice
I am now in Ireland; just worked several stations on 20M and 30M CW with my KX1
at 3 watts. Having a ball! Will be in Ireland till Thursday, then QRV London
for three days.
Russ Eberhart, N9IV
KX1 #742
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Hi David.
Having both the K1 and K2 I must say that they can't be compared to each
other.
Why?. They meet different needs.
The K1 with powerful audio and simple operation is my choice for backpack
and ...YES also base station use.
I tend to care fore the rig and feel pity for it if it
John, you will have a lot of fun with the KX1. I am getting ready to go on
the Auto Train next Sunday to Fla and getting my KX1 ready to go. I have
26ft of #26 Silky wire for a antenna and 32 ft wire for counterpoise... Also
have the Super Antennas MP1 Vert. that I will take with me.
Paul Gates
Tom,
I believe you are speaking of functions that can be (and should be)
implemented in DSP (if it is to 'search', some intelligence is required).
The KDSP2 de-noiser does provide a lot of noise reduction similar to what
you are describing - unfortunately, it is a bit more than $30,40,50.
The
Dan,
As an easy quick check, put the antenna on the Receive Ant jack and see if
the receiver perks up - if it does, then you have Rant set on in the menu.
Since you said it worked before installing the KNB2, check there first.
Remove the KNB2 and jumper between pins 1 and 5 of J12 (the knb2
John,
The 30 meter low power can be cured by replacing C80 and C81 in the KPA100 -
go the the Elecraft website Builders Resource page and look at Builders
Alert #22 - yes, I know it says 20 and 17 meters, but it applies sometimes
to 30 meters as well.
You may have to replace the 1.6 ohm 2 watt
Unfortunately, the KDSP2 is in the wrong part of the receiver chain for
impulse noise reduction. Effective impulse noise reduction needs to be done
at the RF/IF level before filtering. The crystal filter in the IF will
distort and elongate the noise pulse making it much more difficult to
Thanks, everyone, for all the input on noise blankers.
A more sophisticated noise blanker is certainly possible. It would need
about twice as many parts, and to fit in the available space would
require nearly all SMDs, including 0603 size passives and TSSOP ICs.
This implies a completely
EricJ wrote:
Not NICER, but different. I stuck mine in the traditional Altoids tin.
Hello..
Thanks for the correction. I did mean different.
I didn't think of removing the terminals nor the BNC connector.
Great idea.
But must confess that I can't make a decent holes in Altoid tins.
wayne burdick wrote:
A more sophisticated noise blanker is certainly possible.
snip
Still, this is definitely on the wish-list. When we do get to it, we'll
be looking for testers who have all sorts of horrible noise to throw at it.
My experience over the past 49 years as a ham tells me
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005, wayne burdick wrote:
A more sophisticated noise blanker is certainly possible.
Still, this is definitely on the wish-list. When we do get to it, we'll be
looking for testers who have all sorts of horrible noise to throw at it.
Hand raised, Baltimore's worst electrical
While an internal blanker would be consistant with the design goals of the K2,
an external blanker would also be acceptable. Most severe noise problems are
at a home QTH, and not at locations where portable operations are conducted.
Less noise at the campsite than at home.
A fully assembled
There is an easier way to take care of the noise/NB... Go to your next door
neighbor with a rep. from the utility company. Ask them to turn off their
power and then one by one turn the circuits back on to see where the noise
is coming from! And then with the power company solve it. This we did
I would think that be-moaning the fact of a better noise blanker would be to
find the source of the noise which is pretty easy to do usually and with the
help of the FCC things change.
Paul Gates
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Bill NY9H [EMAIL
Any thoughts on weatherproofing the BL-1 for outdoor installation? I plan on
running coax from my K2 out the side of the house to the balun and then to a
longwire. It seems the RS project could be sealed, but would the plastic case
weather well?
Thanks.
Dan KF4KKF
-Original Message-
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005, Paul Gates wrote:
I would think that be-moaning the fact of a better noise blanker would be to
find the source of the noise which is pretty easy to do usually and with the
help of the FCC things change.
Let's see, using that logic, I can get rid of all the locks on my
Hi Folks,
Just picked up a K2 no 00374 to join my K1, I have a question about the
menu.
In the ops manual it says that Mic Gain SSBA is from 0 to 255 and the
Processor level SSBP is also 0 to 255
My menu shows SSBA with settings of 1, 2, 3 or bAL
and the SSBP with settings of 1-1 to 4-1
Is this
Hi Vic,
Have you met an Evasive Noise Blanker? It won't send 'QRZ test' at you
either!
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
Vic Rosenthal wrote:
My experience over the past 49 years as a ham tells me YES! I want this.
Noise of various types is the biggest problem I face in my day-to-day
hamming, and it is
On Sun, 2005-07-17 at 17:02 -0500, Zac Brown wrote:
It is as if the K2 is always muted, except when in menu mode after
Atu is selected.
I had the same problem when I built my K2. It was caused by pin 1 of the
control board processor having bent over (instead of going into the
socket) when I
Wayne,
sign me up; I got lots of bad noise from a variety of sources; I would
only love my K2 all the more...
73,
Dave
W5SV
wayne burdick wrote:
Thanks, everyone, for all the input on noise blankers.
A more sophisticated noise blanker is certainly possible. It would
need about twice as
Brian,
You have the Rev A manual, and yes, it does say that, but it is incorrect!!
That manual was written before the KSB2 was fully developed, and once the
KSB2 was completed, the menus were made to fit the real KSB2 rather that the
initial design concepts.
Solution - download the K2 Rev F
Drilling holes in Altoids tins is easy. Use brad point bits that woodworkers
use. You can get a whole set at some place like Harbor Freight for about 6
bucks. Typically you need 3/8, 5/16 and sometimes 1/4. They are cheaper than
a step bit, and I think they work BETTER on this stuff. The center of
I agree Vic. My location is pretty noise during the day, esp. in the summer.
Frequently it is S5-S7 during the afternoon. The KNB2 does the best job of
any noise blanker I have ever had, but it is not up to everything I
experience. An effective noise blanker would be high on my list.
Eric
KE6US
Dan,
Take a walk through the electrical section of your local DIY-type store and
look for the waterproof enclosures they have there - NEMA boxes are
excellent for outdoor use and are waterproof when used with the proper
fittings.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
Any thoughts on
I discarded most of the bits of the kit, retaining only the ferrite core
wire. After winding the balun, I put it in a piece of 1.5 Schedule 40 pipe
with 2 endcaps. One endcap was drilled to take a SO239 and the other fitted
with 2 stainless steel eyebolts.
73, Dave G3VGR
- Original
I have a fancy switch for A/B antenna testing for coaxially fed antennas
but do not know what folks use for antenna switches with antennas fed by
ladder lines. I want to compare a 160 meter full wave loop fed with
homebrew ladder line to a G5RV fed by 450 window line. Any suggestions?
I
Kevin, KD5ONS wrote:
I have a fancy switch for A/B antenna testing for coaxially fed antennas
but do not know what folks use for antenna switches with antennas fed by
ladder lines. I want to compare a 160 meter full wave loop fed with
homebrew ladder line to a G5RV fed by 450 window line. Any
Joe et al:
I experienced the same thing with my KNB2. A sort of fix, for me, was
to increase the size of both timing capacitors so as to lengthen the
blanking pulse. I increased C11 from .001 uF to .0047 uF, and C12 from
.0068 uF to 0.033 uF. In each case, this represented an
Kevin,
If you have a KAT2 or a KAT100, that switch is built in. Connect each
feedline to a 1:1 current balun and a short piece of coax to the tuner -
Pre-tune each antenna before your comparison, and the ANT 1/2 button will
switch them for you.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I
Thank you for the fine suggestions and nice photos.
John, W2AGN, you and my father would have enjoyed each other's hand built
cases. He crafted one for each of his hobbies. He was trained as a
cabinet maker by my great grandfather.
It looks like I will take bits from each idea and use a
Eric, I have a S8 noise all the time... 24 hours a day. I have discovered
with the Utility company the neighbor that is responsible. The neighbors
were asked to called the Utility Co. months ago but they have not done
anything. At the time... March... I was going in for a full knee replacement
On Jul 18, 2005, at 6:35 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:
I am unsure where I can find a knife switch but I do like the idea
of the barrier strips.
It's not a great one, but Radio Shack #275-1537 costs $2.99 and will
do the trick.
- Jack Brindle, W6FB
I have thought of pairing up a 4-position Alpha-Delta coax switch back-to-back,
but time and expense have prevented it. I have also thought through a few
schematics to do it remotely to my attic with relays. But here's a simple
homebrew one (http://www.io.com/~n5fc/ant_sw.htm) I found at N5ESE's
Eliminating the source of the noise is by far the best solution, however in
many cases it is just not practical. I live in a farming area and there are
many, many, electric fences. While an electric fence in proper order causes
little if any RFI, most fences are simply not installed and
I just picked up an assembled KAT2 from a fellow Elecrafter and note that
it's a couple revs behind the current version. I browsed around the Elecraft
site but couldn't find anything that would succinctly tell me what, if
anything, I would need to do to bring this unit up to the current version.
Craig,
The KAT2 has changed little. To bring it up to date, change R6 to 470 ohms
and upgrade the firmware. That is all that I am aware of - if someone has
better info, please correct me. Mine works fine with those 2 changes, and
my unit was one of the initial Field Test models.
73,
Don W3FPR
Paul,
I suppose your right !
I took the kx1 apart tonight and was considering repackaging it myself.
It could use a bit more room inside for a few more batteries as well.
How about KX1-hA (high altitude). Above 11K ft I tend to reduce my
judgement so simplification is important. Examples,
Matt, all...
Mouser Electronics sells nice BNC-ended cables with low-loss
flexible coax for little more than the cost of connectors. I have a
bunch and they are a great deal. Just google Mouser.
Mike N0MF
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You should think about supplemental oxygen. You should be OK up to 12,000 ft
or so. If you're experiencing symptoms of hypoxia at altitudes less than
that, some extra 02 would be a good idea.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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