Hi Guys,
Thank you very much for your illuminating assistance with N-Gen output.
I think that I now understand the principles which I had forgotten after
40 years. Or, perhaps that was a question in the exam that I took a
punt on not getting! It is amazing how the sins of our youth come
I just built the new WK-USB keyer from K1EL. It can be use with a computer USB
port, or in stand alone mode. It operates in Iambic A, B, Bug, or Ultimatic
modes. I have not tried Ultimatic keying for 10 years, but was able to send OK
with it after a few minutes of practice. I would think
Maybe you can key a TIP31 or 32 Power transistor from output of K2 circuit.
These worked pretty well for me back in VIC20/RTTY days for keying FT101E.
Paul WD8OJL
The FL-2100B pulls 20v on its keying input, whilst the circuit for the K2 is
only designed for 5-12v !! This is clearly written
Congratulations!!!
I know the feeling. I went in to re-establish my ham roots of 30 y
ago and decided to take tech thru extra exams. Didn't expect pass
the Extra but studied very hard and passed.
Nothing better, eh?
You've done a great thing. I'm sure everyone on the group wishes you
David,
Best solution: Change the output transistor to a mosfet device which will be
capable of handling the higher voltage. See the .pdf from Tom Hammond's
website - http://www.n0ss.net/k2_basic_8r_line_t-r_adapter.pdf for the
re-designed output device (HEXFET). It will require changing one of
I answered David and apparently did not click on Reply All. A long time
ago using the Elecraft Keying Circuit, I simply replaced the 2N keying
transistor with a MPSA42 which can handle max 300V (Vce) at 100 mA. It
worked fine with my SB-220 which has ~110V on the key line.
73,
Ken K3IU
After a 4th july trip with my k2 upon keying it goes hi current, then
does a reset.
At any power level, any mode, any band,
finals not shorted, but get instantly hot when trying to go to
transmit before it resets. Can't measure any transmit voltages ,
since it won't stay in xmit,.
I
Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about
to move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the
transmitter.
There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on
the
Hi Elecrafter's
When I built my K2 #2746 4 years back now I set C22 near enough using an
external frequency counter, then last year I added the SSB board, I noted
that I was about 200 Hz high as I do not work near band edges I left it at
that, but recently decided I would get it a bit nearer
Gee--I don't remember it as being particularly difficult. Is there some
flaw in the threads of either the nut or the connector? Is it the
correct size nut?
K4TO
Michael Cook wrote:
Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of
fun. Last night I just finished the last
Gordon Gibson wrote:
a local pal who has recently built a K2 has found the same problem when
he built his K2 he calibrated C22 okay but now finds that moving C22
does nothing I have studied the circuit and I just can not figure out
why this should be so
The exact frequency of the 4 MHz
next clue : i pulled the outputs, which are not shorted and the set acts ok ,
that leads me to believe that I got a lowpass filter issue
especially since I get almost dead short at the output of the
finals/ input to the LP filters,,
onward,,,
bill
After a 4th july trip with my k2
At first I thought the post was about me. :-)
I recall the nut going on mine just fine. The nut is small and easy to
get cross threaded and with plastic threads, it's easy to get things
fouled up.
My *guess* is that the nut itself has messed up threads. If so, the
more you try, the more likely
Mike,
Mine went on first time..here is a tip you might wish to
try(having first checked that you have not, by accident got the right
nut confused with another on your bench). Offer up the nut to the threads on
the antenna connector. Then turn it anti clockwise until you feel
I had exactly the same problem. I tried for a long time and gave
up. I got a nut from another BNC connector in the junk box and it
went on right away. Something is not right with those nuts.
A recommendation for all new builders: try it before you install the
antenna jack. It is
Michael,
Others have given you good suggestions, but ...
In most cases, you can simply leave the nut off - the BNC is securely
soldered to the RF Board and the rear panel is securely fastened with its
screws. The only thing the nut accomplishes is to cover the gap between the
rear panel and the
Gordon,
During operation of the K2, the reference oscillator is not used except as
the oscillator for the microprocessor - so there will be no observed effect
from changing the C22 setting.
During the calibration steps (for an accurate CAL FCTR reading, and before
running CAL PLL or CAL FIL),
Bill,
If you look at the schematic, you should discover that the LPF area will
indicate DC continuity to ground. The secondary winding of T4 connects the
input of the LPF to ground for DC.
Since the K2 was working before, you have only a single failure point -
keeping that in mind while
Hi, Steve!
It's very important that you set the scan memory Start/Stop boundaries
as described in the manual. Operating without having done this is
pretty unpredictable, and can cause some of the problems you are
experiencing.
Brian - W6FVI
Steven M. Knapp wrote:
I hit upon the scan
Same exact problem here too. I tried, gently, this and that, and then
everything. Eventually, in spite of careful efforts, I had kind of
stripped the first few threads. I finally just wound it on there,
making some new threads. Wish I had tried a different nut, but I
didn't think of it.
Same with mine. I cant even get it started, seems to be a little for the
antenna jack
Earl
Michael Cook wrote:
Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about to
move on to the third set of
I have for sale a set of unused pre-wound toroids for the K2 (by Toroid Guy).
$30.00 shipped (CONUS ONLY). Please email off list to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Pay-Pal or postal money order preferred. No credit cards with Pay-Pal please.
Thanks !!
Ken, W2GIW
Oaklyn, NJ
Hi -
If anyone has an LDG-Z11 tuner they don't want - I'm looking for one. I thought
perhaps someone may not be using one after building Elecraft's tuner. Please
reply off-line (I only look at the reflector in digest mode).
Thanks, Tim, NZ7C
___
Sure you don't really need an Elecraft T1? ;-)
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
Hi -
If anyone has an LDG-Z11 tuner they don't want - I'm looking for one. I
thought perhaps someone may not be using one after building Elecraft's
tuner. Please reply off-line (I only look at the reflector in
I have been trying to seek information about the relative merits of using
the T1 vs the KAT2 antenna tuners with the K2. For some reason, my request
has
apparently not been posted. There has only been one review of the KAT2 on
eham. There have been many on the T1, but most pertain to the
That would be GREAT if it would handle 125 watts.
73, Kurt
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Dick ...
I can give you a partially complete answer. I have a K2 with the internal
tuner and am very pleased with it. I also just bought (but have not yet
built) a T1 tuner.
From what I can piece together from the specs on the Elecraft website, the
T1 tuner will provide essentially the same
Craig D. Smith wrote:
I can give you a partially complete answer. I have a K2 with the
internal
tuner and am very pleased with it. I also just bought (but have not
yet
built) a T1 tuner
Dick,
As Craig mentioned, the KAT2 has the advantage of being very well
integrated with the K2.
After many months, this thread rears its ugly head again :-)
At the time, I said that I would take a crack at updating Your Novice Accent
and collecting resources for the new ham who is trying to get proficient at CW.
I decided, after a while, that updating YNA was something I didn't want to
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