Yesterday I started to assembly the KIO2 AUX I/O Module. The problem is that
the the (subminiature) chokes I've got are bigger than I think they should
be, their body is as long as the distance between the pads so it's
impossible to install them flat on the board.
Are these the wrong chokes or is
Confirming what Don Wilhelm says...I tried a number of serial adapters,
and the only one that worked flawlessly was the Edgeport 4-port adapter.
I used it with a K2, XP Pro, and FLDIGI (and/or DigiPan earlier). I
also used it for a while with a K3, WIN7 (and previously Vista RIP), and
FLDIGI.
I'm getting fed up with these invitations from people I have never heard of,
and who insist in calling me Robert !
John G4ZTR
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Giancarlo Moda via
LinkedIn
Sent: 27 September
Hi John All,
sorry for this invitation but something went wrong somewhere... I have just
discovered over 50 invitations or links this morning.
73
Gian
I7SWX
Da: John Lemay j...@carltonhouse.eclipse.co.uk
A: 'Giancarlo Moda' i7...@yahoo.com; 'Robert johnson'
elecraft@mailman.qth.net;
Benny,
Check item 3 on the errata sheet. The larger, less fragile RF chokes
may be mounted at an angle.
You have the correct parts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/28/2011 2:19 AM, kruegerbenny wrote:
Yesterday I started to assembly the KIO2 AUX I/O Module. The problem is that
the the (subminiature)
I agree with John and Don, although I don't have a Win7 machine.
You can get the 4-port adapter from ebay for $30.
73,
Fred
The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration, and Operation
www.ke7x.com
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Hi,
There is no reason why this should not work with LP-Bridge. Open a spare
virtual port in LP-Bridge if there is not already one and set that as the
serial port in S-meter Lite. I have done this in the past with a cute little
S-meter program (can't remember if it was S-meter Lite or not).
Well, KPA500 kit, serial # 443 arrived with the box in perfect condition just
as the wife and I were headed out for supper and to do some grocery shopping so
by the time we got back to the house it was too late to open boxes and start
the inventory.
My day today was already planned so maybe
I Have a Dell XPS-8300 (i7-2600 3.4 GHz, 64-bit OS) with Windows 7. The
expansion ports are the PCI-Express variety. I use the below Best Connectivity
six port product. It has worked flawlessly for me. I have one port connected
to the W2 wattmeter and a second port connected to the KPA500
Benny,
The larger-size chokes are sturdier, if a little inconvenient. You can
mount them at a slight angle and/or wrap the leads around underneath.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Sep 27, 2011, at 11:19 PM, kruegerbenny wrote:
Yesterday I started to assembly the KIO2 AUX I/O Module. The problem
is
What is the model number on that inexpensive, recommended Digi Edgeport
4-port adapter?
/Rick N6XI
On Wed, Sep 28, 2011 at 5:09 AM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:
I agree with John and Don, although I don't have a Win7 machine.
You can get the 4-port adapter from ebay for $30.
73,
I just finished building my K2 #7224.
As for now, it's a plain K2 with only the SSB option installed.
The first QSO was in SSB with JY5MM on 14226 kHz at 1536 UTC today with about
15 watt to a windom antenna.
I gave JY5MM a 58 report and received a 55 report.
The K2 building went very well and I
I bid on a 4 port Inside Networks Out EdgePort/4 with a $25 limit and then
saw an 8 port and figured I wouldn't get the 4 port so bid on the 8 port
with a 35 limit and got them both.
They are the same units I see there now although some are listed as if
somebody bought out the original Inside
The humming of the transformer in the KPA 500 is somewhat analogous to the
SWR indicator on the KPA500 showing yellow leds. The external antenna has a
lot to do with the SWR. The primary's ac voltage and frequency (hz) has
the same type of external affect on the transformer's humming. To
Everyone, This is my third posting with this add.
I have a Tokyo High Power linear amplifier for sale. It is in like new
condition and been used very carefully with no problems. It is less than
a year old and It looks just like it came out of the box and works just
as well. The model number is
Yes, some people complain about fly specks, but not many, IMX. I treat any
report as legitimate until proven otherwise. A key value of this reflector
has always been to compare notes between users of various Elecraft gear and
to help people who are still learning.
We've seen several good
Hi,
I have decided I want to fire up the XG3 utility and change some of the
preprogrammed frequencies. I am having a little trouble identifying the
cable which I apparently threw in a drawer with a lot of similar looking
cables. The one that I think is the right one is labeled Skytronic high
Hi Knut
I have my new - unused unit on my desk - the cable is in a bag E850369
'Serial Cable Assembly'
it is black with a female DB9 connector and miniature headphone type plug on
the other end
It is about 6' long- good luck - i feel your pain :-)
73 John VE3NFK
--
View this message in
PS - edited to add - there are no names/marking on cable; and 'skytronic' is
a brand name for a series of different cables.
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/XG3-cable-tp6841887p6841953.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
You can also use your ohmmeter or any continuity checker and confirm the
wiring. It's just three wires. See the last page of your Owner's manual for
the connections.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
Hi Knut
I have my new - unused unit on my desk - the cable is in a bag E850369
'Serial
Yeah, I found the right one in a bag and without markings as you describe.
It's working fine and I have changed my frequencies. Sorry for the
bandwidth.
AB2TC - Knut
VE3NFK wrote:
PS - edited to add - there are no names/marking on cable; and 'skytronic'
is a brand name for a series of
hey [Elecraft] wow this is crazy http://www.thelocalten.com
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A low level of AC hum is normal with products like the KPA500 that use
a high-power linear supply.
Nearly all reports of KPA500 hum have come from kit builders. So we
did some reverse engineering of our kit building process to see how to
make the normal hum worse. In the process we found
Bill VanAlstyne [w5...@cybermesa.net]
Your computer has been hacked, please run your virus protection software.
73 ES CUL DE N3KHK
==
John R. Klim II
ARRL LM, AMSAT LM
10-10: 68135
30MDG: 1820
QSL: LoTW, Bureau, Direct, eQSL as a courtesy
Hello Wayne,
I suggest you also post your message somewhere on the Elecraft website. The
hum in my KPA500 has been much reduced by using your suggestion solution as
previously advised by Gary.
TNX 73,
Johnny VR2XMC
從︰ Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
收件人︰
Radio Shack had it. $17 incl tax for very small vials both kinds - ouch.
When I put my P3 together I'll spritz a bit on a gauze pad and wipe down
those grounding pads. Worth the cost not to have trouble later.
If I'd seen this post earlier I would have used a bit of the gold stuff on
the
Wayne,
I have not purchased my KPA500 yet but I do want to understand anything you
say. Now, I don't understand item (1) below about using the yellow (lowest
voltage) tap.
I think my problem is possibly perspective but in reading the manual, the yellow
tap is associated with the highest primary
Hi Phil,
Wayne was referring to the highest supply voltage internal to the amplifier
which increases in steps when moving from the yellow to the red, to the
green tap. It is a bit confusing because the highest voltage tap would be
used with the lowest AC mains voltage to maintain the operating
Hello Phil,
The line voltage in Hong Kong is 220v 50Hz. I measured the AC socket at my QTH
with a Fluke DMM at 218v. Initially, I chose the Green tap and got quite a
noticeable hum. After that, I switched to Red tap and the hum was much reduced.
The amount of hum had been further reduced
I got it working and finished the K1 this evening. Thanks for all the
assistance and suggestions.
I am not certain where the problem was but I re-soldered and touched up a
few solder joints on the filter board. I think it may have been C10 as the
coating on the cap was down into the via a little
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