Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 rs232 to cpu not working

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Actually a standard serial cable can be connected to the KRC2 if jumpers 
W11 thru W20 are removed, no need to cut off wires in the cable.

That information *is* in the plugging configuration charts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/25/2015 8:43 AM, John K9UWA wrote:


A simple statement in the KRC2 manual could have been added by Elecraft
stating. To Program your KRC2 to your K3 radio get a standard DB9 serial
cable. and CUT OFF all wires EXCEPT 2, 3 and 5. Mark the cable Program
KCR2 ONLY and save the cable for future use. I wonder how many
additional KRC2 boxes Elecraft could have sold over the  last 4 years?




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

Do things settle down if you drive a dummy load instead of the antenna?  
If so, that would nail it as an RF Feedback.  If that is the case, use a 
good quality common mode choke at the junction of the coax with the 
ladderline.  See K9YC's RFI information at 
http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf - chapters 6 and 7 cover making 
effective feedline chokes.


Also investigate your KPA100 to see if it has the latest upgrade. The 
T/R switch was changed to eliminate instability on 40 meters.
Remove the right side panel of the K2 and peer between the KPA100 shield 
and board.  If you see blue toroid cores at RFC1 and L16, you have the 
updated version.  If you see red cores, update with KPA100UPKT.
You may also have to update the shield.  If you do not have shield clips 
to connect the shield to the sides of the base K2 and a shield over the 
speaker magnet, add the KPA100SHLDKT.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/25/2015 1:45 AM, Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft wrote:

I'm having an issue with unstable power output using digital modes on 40m
above about 20 watts.  All other bands seem to be ok.

My antenna setup is as follows: a loop consisting of about 245 feet of wire,
feed line consists of about 21 feet of 450 ohm ladderline to an Elecraft BL2
balun, then about 3 feet of coax to KAT100/KPA100/K2.  I've tried the balun
in 1:1 and 4:1 configs with no apparent change.  The feed point of the loop
is in the attic above the shack, but the majority of the wire is outside
running along a wood fence.

No problems tuning any band including 40m.  When using digital modes, power
output and ALC action (no bars) appears normal on 10 through 30m, and even
works ok on 80m.  Haven't tried 160m.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[David Anderson]

Brian,

The Elecraft K series requires a different way of setting power out on digital. 

You increase the audio drive from the SignaLink until the "ALC" meter is 
showing 4 to 5 bars and then adjust the power control to set the required power 
out, do not use the audio level to adjust the power.

The "ALC" meter is actually just an audio level meter until the 6th bar when 
actual power reducing ALC starts. 

I know this apparently goes against normal advice to not have any ALC showing, 
but in effect you are not because of the way the "ALC" meter on the K series is 
configured. There is no ALC action until the 6th bar of "ALC".

If you don't have sufficient audio (4 to 5 bars of "ALC" ) then the radio power 
output will be unstable as you have described.


73

David Anderson GM4JJJ 

> On 25 Oct 2015, at 05:45, Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> No problems tuning any band including 40m.  When using digital modes, power
> output and ALC action (no bars) appears normal on 10 through 30m, and even
> works ok on 80m.  Haven't tried 160m.
> 
> However, when attempting digital modes (using a Signalink) on 40m, power
> output and ALC action is "all over the place" and generally folds back to a
> couple of watts.  The output also seems to be extremely "touchy" and
> sensitive to the TX drive setting on the Signalink that's not apparent on
> other bands.  I don't see this craziness using a dummy load, so I'm
> suspecting maybe I'm getting RF feedback only on 40m for some reason.
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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 rs232 to cpu not working

[John K9UWA]

THANKS JIM 

After 4+ years of dealing with the inability to reprogram the KRC2. Finally the 
real Answer as to how to connect the KRC2 to the Serial DB9 of your 
computer and program it with the Utility Program. Yes 4 years ago when I 
assembled the KRC2 after three very long frustrating days I managed to get 
the band map program to work and the box is programmed up for 9 HF 
bands. And I like many others now wish to reprogram it for SIX meter 
antenna. 

A simple statement in the KRC2 manual could have been added by Elecraft 
stating. To Program your KRC2 to your K3 radio get a standard DB9 serial 
cable. and CUT OFF all wires EXCEPT 2, 3 and 5. Mark the cable Program 
KCR2 ONLY and save the cable for future use. I wonder how many 
additional KRC2 boxes Elecraft could have sold over the  last 4 years? 

Again thanks Jim for the simple solution.
John k9uwa


> It is important to understand that the DB9 connectors on the KRC2 ARE 
> NOT for an RS232 connection, and, in general, will NOT WORK with 
> standard RS232 cables. It's wiring is VERY different, because the 
> product was originally designed to work with the K2 remote control, 
> which is also very different from RS232. Wiring is shown in the manual 
> (Fig 6).
> 
> On the DB9 connectors, ONLY pins 2, 3, and 5 are used for serial 
> control, and are wired to corresponding pins on a computer serial port.
> 
> I used to have two KRC2s in my station controlling sets of W3NQN 
> bandpass filters with the Array Solutions switchbox. I don't remember 
> details of the hookup, but the manual clearly shows how the KRC2 can be 
> configured for a variety of uses.
> 
> One very useful piece of information is that band data from the K2 and 
> K3 to the KRC2 is contained in the single AUX Bus circuit, which I 
> implemented with a coax cable between my K3 15-pin AUX connector and the 
> KRC2. That bus is Pin 6 on the DB9 connectors.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[David Anderson]

Brian,

Too early in the morning with me, I just noticed the fact you have a K2 not a 
K3 or KX3.

In that case the ALC meter is different, but perhaps you may find something 
that is helpful on the late G4ILO's site:

http://www.g4ilo.com/k2psk31.html


73

David Anderson GM4JJJ 

> On 25 Oct 2015, at 09:19, David Anderson  wrote:
> 
> Brian,
> 
> The Elecraft K series requires a different way of setting power out on 
> digital. 
> 
> Snip..


> 
>> On 25 Oct 2015, at 05:45, Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> No problems tuning any band including 40m.  When using digital modes, power
>> output and ALC action (no bars) appears normal on 10 through 30m, and even
>> works ok on 80m.  Haven't tried 160m.
>> 
>> How
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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[kk5na]

I use the NORTEX Accuprobe.  Nice inexpensive, versitile and very sensitive.

73, Joe KK5NA
 
On 10/25/2015 4:35 PM, Rick Robinson wrote:

I don't have the paperwork in front of me but the Elecraft DL 1 dummy load
has provisions to measure power up to 20 watts with a 10%  accuracy. Just
use a dvm. They also make a WM1 that handles more power with a .5 dbm
accuracy.

On Sunday, October 25, 2015, Hajo Dezelski  wrote:


Hello,

I have been using a wattmeter from Fox for powers under 1 Watt, but
the display is too nervous and hard to read. So I stumbled over the
Elecraft W2 and read that with the 200 W sensor, you can read also
power levels under 2 Watt. This would be really helpful for I
experiment with power levels down to 0.5 mW.

So before I invest, let me just ask some questions:

1. Has someone compared the power indicatores for the levels of 100 -
1000 mW with a precise wattmeter? As far as I understood each led
signifies 100 mW.

2. If I would use the computer readout: How precise is the output?
Just 100 mW or ist it e.g. 147 mW?

3. I am working max. 10 Watt with the Kx3, but normally use only
between 100 mW and 5 W max. Could I adjust  with the calibration of
active sensor down to let's say 1 Watt instead of 2 Watt?

4. Is it possible to modify the transformer T1 and T2 of the sensor so
that the range would be (20W - 2 W and 200 mW. Or is there a sensor
like this available on request from Elecraft.

I know a lot of questions, but as far as I can see this meter would be
a real champion for QRPP and could be used with a WSPR TRX.

73 de
Hajo (DL1SDZ)

---
Cela est bien dit, mais il faut cultiver notre jardin.
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Re: [Elecraft] Search Archives

[Wes (N7WS)]

Or: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/

On 10/25/2015 12:41 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Sure. I use http://marc.info/?l=elecraft  and check Subject (rather than 
Body). Works well for me.


73, Phil W7OX

On 10/25/15 11:20 AM, Bill Gaines wrote:
Is there any way to search the archives of this list to see if my question 
has already been addressed before?


AD8P



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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[Rick Robinson]

I don't have the paperwork in front of me but the Elecraft DL 1 dummy load
has provisions to measure power up to 20 watts with a 10%  accuracy. Just
use a dvm. They also make a WM1 that handles more power with a .5 dbm
accuracy.

On Sunday, October 25, 2015, Hajo Dezelski  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have been using a wattmeter from Fox for powers under 1 Watt, but
> the display is too nervous and hard to read. So I stumbled over the
> Elecraft W2 and read that with the 200 W sensor, you can read also
> power levels under 2 Watt. This would be really helpful for I
> experiment with power levels down to 0.5 mW.
>
> So before I invest, let me just ask some questions:
>
> 1. Has someone compared the power indicatores for the levels of 100 -
> 1000 mW with a precise wattmeter? As far as I understood each led
> signifies 100 mW.
>
> 2. If I would use the computer readout: How precise is the output?
> Just 100 mW or ist it e.g. 147 mW?
>
> 3. I am working max. 10 Watt with the Kx3, but normally use only
> between 100 mW and 5 W max. Could I adjust  with the calibration of
> active sensor down to let's say 1 Watt instead of 2 Watt?
>
> 4. Is it possible to modify the transformer T1 and T2 of the sensor so
> that the range would be (20W - 2 W and 200 mW. Or is there a sensor
> like this available on request from Elecraft.
>
> I know a lot of questions, but as far as I can see this meter would be
> a real champion for QRPP and could be used with a WSPR TRX.
>
> 73 de
> Hajo (DL1SDZ)
>
> ---
> Cela est bien dit, mais il faut cultiver notre jardin.
> __
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> Message delivered to rickw...@gmail.com 
>


-- 
Rick, W8ZT

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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[John Oppenheimer]

Hi All,

I agree with Ron, the DL1 can be very accurate with a good DVM.

I have computed diode voltage loss using an attenuator. The results are
here:

http://www.kn5l.net/DL1-diode/

John KN5L

On 10/25/2015 05:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> The DL1 can be very accurate.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT on balun usage

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

One point I've learned over the years is the fact baluns, regardless of 
the ratio, are power rated at matched values.  i.e. a 1:1 is typically a 
50 ohm to 50 ohm while a 4:1 is nominally a 200 ohm to 50 ohm device.  
And the power rating is mostly at closely matched values.  Hence a 4:1 
balun is good for feeding a 1/2 wave folded dipole which, at nominal 
height above ground, is about 200 to 300 ohms where as a 1:1 balun is 
good for a 1/2 wave dipole at near resonant frequency.


Therefore a 4:1 balun may be good for say 1KW if the Z's are correct.  
Try to use one on a complex reactive load and the 1KW rating fails 
rather quickly.  For that reason, for any balun I use and choose, it  is 
rated at 5x to 10x the expected power.  Thus a 1KW balun is good for 
about 100 watts.I recently "smoked badly" a 4:1 known brand 5KW 
balun on 160M with my AM transmitter at legal limit when I connected the 
80M folded dipole antenna in error Shouldn't have done that.   The 
transmitter didn't care but lots of smoke came out of the balun box.


73
Bob, K4TAX

On 10/25/2015 2:57 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Yep, almost.  The word "balun" is a portmanteau of "balanced" and 
"unbalanced."  They are transformers or auto-transformers and their 
job is to keep a balanced feed to the antenna balanced when 
transitioning to unbalanced coax.  Since they're transformers, they 
can also transform the impedance. 



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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The DL1 can be very accurate. As a QRP and QRPp enthusiast I have a homebrew
version that goes back decades before Elecraft, Hi! 

A simple RF voltmeter is a common way and inexpensive to measure very small
power levels. (For the more exotic measurements a bolometer or, optionally,
an accurate well calibrated oscilloscope is often used.)

The RF voltmeter system (which the DL1 uses) gets inaccurate as you get down
into the barrier voltage range of the diode. In that range the response of
the diode is no longer linear. My homebrew version uses a 1N34A Germanium
diode which is darn near "unobtainium" these days but a good PIN diode such
as Elecraft supplies in the DL1 is just as good. Both have a barrier voltage
of about 0.2V. 

But you can make very accurate measurements even at very low levels where
the barrier voltage makes the system non-linear with a little more effort.
Instead of applying RF to the device, connect an adjustable dc power source
of about a 1 watt. Use your accurate DMM to measure the voltage and current
applied to determine the output as you vary the d-c power applied.  The d-c
power reading is the same as the RF power reading from such a device. So, by
creating a calibration chart using accurate d-c power levels, you can now
measure similar RF power levels with excellent accuracy.

73, Ron AC7AC 

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick
Robinson
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2015 2:35 PM
To: Hajo Dezelski
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Steih, Uwe
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

I don't have the paperwork in front of me but the Elecraft DL 1 dummy load
has provisions to measure power up to 20 watts with a 10%  accuracy. Just
use a dvm. They also make a WM1 that handles more power with a .5 dbm
accuracy.

On Sunday, October 25, 2015, Hajo Dezelski  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have been using a wattmeter from Fox for powers under 1 Watt, but 
> the display is too nervous and hard to read. So I stumbled over the 
> Elecraft W2 and read that with the 200 W sensor, you can read also 
> power levels under 2 Watt. This would be really helpful for I 
> experiment with power levels down to 0.5 mW.
>
> So before I invest, let me just ask some questions:
>
> 1. Has someone compared the power indicatores for the levels of 100 -
> 1000 mW with a precise wattmeter? As far as I understood each led 
> signifies 100 mW.
>
> 2. If I would use the computer readout: How precise is the output?
> Just 100 mW or ist it e.g. 147 mW?
>
> 3. I am working max. 10 Watt with the Kx3, but normally use only 
> between 100 mW and 5 W max. Could I adjust  with the calibration of 
> active sensor down to let's say 1 Watt instead of 2 Watt?
>
> 4. Is it possible to modify the transformer T1 and T2 of the sensor so 
> that the range would be (20W - 2 W and 200 mW. Or is there a sensor 
> like this available on request from Elecraft.
>
> I know a lot of questions, but as far as I can see this meter would be 
> a real champion for QRPP and could be used with a WSPR TRX.
>
> 73 de
> Hajo (DL1SDZ)
>
> ---
> Cela est bien dit, mais il faut cultiver notre jardin.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> rickw...@gmail.com 
>


--
Rick, W8ZT

Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: [Elecraft] OT on balun usage

[Barry LaZar]

Bob,
You are quite correct, and your recommendation to use a balun rated 
at higher power levels than you plan to run is dead on. One point; in 
the main, it is better to use a current type rather than a voltage 
balun. Between your recommendation and my suggestion, a number of 
problems get addressed and need not be of bother to the average ham.



73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Bob McGraw - K4TAX" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 10/25/2015 8:41:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT on balun usage

One point I've learned over the years is the fact baluns, regardless of 
the ratio, are power rated at matched values.  i.e. a 1:1 is typically 
a 50 ohm to 50 ohm while a 4:1 is nominally a 200 ohm to 50 ohm device. 
 And the power rating is mostly at closely matched values.  Hence a 4:1 
balun is good for feeding a 1/2 wave folded dipole which, at nominal 
height above ground, is about 200 to 300 ohms where as a 1:1 balun is 
good for a 1/2 wave dipole at near resonant frequency.


Therefore a 4:1 balun may be good for say 1KW if the Z's are correct.  
Try to use one on a complex reactive load and the 1KW rating fails 
rather quickly.  For that reason, for any balun I use and choose, it  
is rated at 5x to 10x the expected power.  Thus a 1KW balun is good for 
about 100 watts.I recently "smoked badly" a 4:1 known brand 5KW 
balun on 160M with my AM transmitter at legal limit when I connected 
the 80M folded dipole antenna in error Shouldn't have done that.   The 
transmitter didn't care but lots of smoke came out of the balun box.


73
Bob, K4TAX

On 10/25/2015 2:57 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
Yep, almost.  The word "balun" is a portmanteau of "balanced" and 
"unbalanced."  They are transformers or auto-transformers and their 
job is to keep a balanced feed to the antenna balanced when 
transitioning to unbalanced coax.  Since they're transformers, they 
can also transform the impedance.



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Re: [Elecraft] Which hand-held PTT switch?

[w7aqk]

Seems like you got a lot of recommendations for a foot switch, but not too 
many for a hand-held switch.  The one from Ron, WD4AHZ, looks nice, but the 
price seems pretty stiff!  Seems to me something like that should only cost 
$10-$15 at the most, but I'm probably still "living" in the 20th century!


Anyway, I don't have one, but I wish I did.  However, I use my CM500 headset 
plugged into the back, and the Elecraft microphone (MH2) is plugged into the 
front.  So, when I just want to use PTT, I simply hold down the Elecraft 
microphone's PTT switch, but actually use the CM500 as my 
microphone/headphone.


It seems to me that it would be pretty darned easy to just make one, and it 
shouldn't cost much either.  For that matter, I could also take one of the 
many old smaller HT microphones with PTT switches I've collected over the 
years and simply change the plug.  The problem with that is that you have to 
hold it on, and you might prefer a "click on-click off" switch.


The last time this thread went around I picked up a foot switch that 
somebody recommended, but I haven't ever really used it.  I'm not one to 
always have my feet in one place anyway!!!  Then again, I'm on SSB so rarely 
that I just can't get motivated to do anything really creative!  Hi.


Dave W7AQK 


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Re: [Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[Don Wilhelm]

All,

Keep in mind that if you use the excellent method Ron describes, there 
is a huge dependency on the precision of the dummy load - just any old 
resistor will not do unless it is characterized first.  It must be 
characterized for not only resistance, but the resistance and any 
possible reactance over the frequency range for which it is to be used.


With the resistance and reactance (hopefully zero) known for the 
frequency of measurement, and the forward voltage drop of the diode also 
known, the power can be calculated with a very small error.


I typically use the RF voltage observed on an oscilloscope connected 
directly across a known dummy load - that voltage allows the power to be 
calculated within 5% if your eyes are good at determining the 'scope 
trace deflection.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/25/2015 6:36 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

The DL1 can be very accurate. As a QRP and QRPp enthusiast I have a homebrew
version that goes back decades before Elecraft, Hi!

A simple RF voltmeter is a common way and inexpensive to measure very small
power levels. (For the more exotic measurements a bolometer or, optionally,
an accurate well calibrated oscilloscope is often used.)

The RF voltmeter system (which the DL1 uses) gets inaccurate as you get down
into the barrier voltage range of the diode. In that range the response of
the diode is no longer linear. My homebrew version uses a 1N34A Germanium
diode which is darn near "unobtainium" these days but a good PIN diode such
as Elecraft supplies in the DL1 is just as good. Both have a barrier voltage
of about 0.2V.

But you can make very accurate measurements even at very low levels where
the barrier voltage makes the system non-linear with a little more effort.
Instead of applying RF to the device, connect an adjustable dc power source
of about a 1 watt. Use your accurate DMM to measure the voltage and current
applied to determine the output as you vary the d-c power applied.  The d-c
power reading is the same as the RF power reading from such a device. So, by
creating a calibration chart using accurate d-c power levels, you can now
measure similar RF power levels with excellent accuracy.

73, Ron AC7AC

  



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Re: [Elecraft] Which hand-held PTT switch?

[Peter Pauly]

Thanks to everyone that responded. I decided to make my own from these
parts at Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkey172-1112
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyED913

Total cost was less than $20 plus shipping.



On Sun, Oct 25, 2015 at 8:03 PM, w7aqk  wrote:

> Seems like you got a lot of recommendations for a foot switch, but not too
> many for a hand-held switch.  The one from Ron, WD4AHZ, looks nice, but the
> price seems pretty stiff!  Seems to me something like that should only cost
> $10-$15 at the most, but I'm probably still "living" in the 20th century!
>
> Anyway, I don't have one, but I wish I did.  However, I use my CM500
> headset plugged into the back, and the Elecraft microphone (MH2) is plugged
> into the front.  So, when I just want to use PTT, I simply hold down the
> Elecraft microphone's PTT switch, but actually use the CM500 as my
> microphone/headphone.
>
> It seems to me that it would be pretty darned easy to just make one, and
> it shouldn't cost much either.  For that matter, I could also take one of
> the many old smaller HT microphones with PTT switches I've collected over
> the years and simply change the plug.  The problem with that is that you
> have to hold it on, and you might prefer a "click on-click off" switch.
>
> The last time this thread went around I picked up a foot switch that
> somebody recommended, but I haven't ever really used it.  I'm not one to
> always have my feet in one place anyway!!!  Then again, I'm on SSB so
> rarely that I just can't get motivated to do anything really creative!  Hi.
>
> Dave W7AQK
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1

[ae4pb]

Sounds good, I guess I'll re-wire it internally as necessary.

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2015 2:08 PM
To: ae...@carolinaheli.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1

Jer,

It all depends on how you have your K3S physically configured.

If you do not have the subRX installed, that is not possible - although you
can connect whatever antenna you now have on ANT2 to the RX ANT input and
select the RX antenna.

If you do have the sub-receiver, then you can use the ANT2 for receive on
the subRX by selecting the AUX input.  Take a look at the antenna routing
Figure 4 on page 45 of the K3S manual.  As indicated, the subRX AUX antenna
input can be connected to either the KAT3 (solid line) or to the BNC AUX RF
jack (dotted line). Which one is actually connected to your subRX AUX input
is a decision that is made at the time you built the K3S and added the KRX3.
Factory built K3S are normally connected to the BNC jack, but you can add
the cable to connect it to the KAT3.

If you connected the AUX input on the sub to the TMP jack on the KAT3, then
when you select the AUX antenna, the sub will be connected to the
non-transmit antenna.  In other words, if the main is using ANT1, the sub
will listen to ANT2.  If you switch the main to ANT2, the sub will listen to
ANT1.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/25/2015 11:51 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
>   
>
> Hi,
>
>I've read the owners manual and Fred Cady's K3 manual. Playing with the
> rig and still can't figure this out.
>
> Desired end result:
>
> When working split I want to receive on Ant2 and transmit on Ant1. I have
> the ATU option installed.
>
>   
>


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[Elecraft] PTT

[John's email]

I used a heil headset with a footswitch when I had a K3. I use the same set up 
with my FTDX1200 and have a Yamaha C500 headset and footswitch that I use with 
my KX3. I never use Vox, haven't for 41 years. I also take a hand mike with me 
in the RV. 

De KE4D
John

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kev...@coho.net]

Good Morning,
Please join us this afternoon and evening.

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
 7045 kHz at 0100z Monday (6 PM PDT Sunday)

73,
Kevin. KD5ONS
-
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1

[Don Wilhelm]

Jer,

It all depends on how you have your K3S physically configured.

If you do not have the subRX installed, that is not possible - although 
you can connect whatever antenna you now have on ANT2 to the RX ANT 
input and select the RX antenna.


If you do have the sub-receiver, then you can use the ANT2 for receive 
on the subRX by selecting the AUX input.  Take a look at the antenna 
routing Figure 4 on page 45 of the K3S manual.  As indicated, the subRX 
AUX antenna input can be connected to either the KAT3 (solid line) or to 
the BNC AUX RF jack (dotted line). Which one is actually connected to 
your subRX AUX input is a decision that is made at the time you built 
the K3S and added the KRX3.  Factory built K3S are normally connected to 
the BNC jack, but you can add the cable to connect it to the KAT3.


If you connected the AUX input on the sub to the TMP jack on the KAT3, 
then when you select the AUX antenna, the sub will be connected to the 
non-transmit antenna.  In other words, if the main is using ANT1, the 
sub will listen to ANT2.  If you switch the main to ANT2, the sub will 
listen to ANT1.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/25/2015 11:51 AM, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:
  


Hi,

   I've read the owners manual and Fred Cady's K3 manual. Playing with the
rig and still can't figure this out.

Desired end result:

When working split I want to receive on Ant2 and transmit on Ant1. I have
the ATU option installed.

  



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[Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1

[ae4pb]

 

Hi, 

  I've read the owners manual and Fred Cady's K3 manual. Playing with the
rig and still can't figure this out. 

Desired end result:

When working split I want to receive on Ant2 and transmit on Ant1. I have
the ATU option installed.

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Jerry Moore

CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB

An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 rs232 to cpu not working

[Michael Eberle]

What is the issue with using the KRC2 on six meters?  Mine works with my 
K3 on 6 and also 2 meters by setting the 6M transceiver band to the XV1 
control output and 2M transceiver band to the XV2 control output.


Mike
KI0HA

On 10/25/2015 7:43 AM, John K9UWA wrote:

  And I like many others now wish to reprogram it for SIX meter
antenna.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Split Rx Ant2/Tx Ant1

[Phil Anderson]

Hi Jerry. I have a K3, about 1 year old. I'm not sure which 
configuration you are using; so, this may or may not help. I do recall 
that when you add the second RX (receiver) you have the choice of 
attaching the second RX to the AUX port instead of the RX2 ANT port. I 
chose the AUX port and thereby had to reroute one of the internal coax 
jumpers over to the AUX port. I use a Beverage antenna with the AUX port 
and thereby receive in diversity mode - hearing audio in my left ear 
from ANT1 and hearing from AUX port, my antenna 2, in my right ear. 
Works very well.


I do recall having some confusion in getting that to work out. I went 
back and forth between Cady's book and the K3 manual, often reading 
between the lines. If you'd outline your setup in a bit more detail and 
email me, I'd be happy to work with you to figure it out.


73, Phil, W0XI, Lawrence, KS
aldenmcduf...@sunflower.com


ae...@carolinaheli.com 
Sunday, October 25, 2015 10:51 AM


Hi,

I've read the owners manual and Fred Cady's K3 manual. Playing with the
rig and still can't figure this out.

Desired end result:

When working split I want to receive on Ant2 and transmit on Ant1. I have
the ATU option installed.



Thanks in advance.





Jerry Moore

CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB

An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft]

Don,

Yes, things settle down with a dummy load, so it looks like I'm dealing with
RF feedback.

Per the original post, I'm using an Elecraft BL2 balun at the
coax/ladderline junction.  Shouldn't this act as the common mode choke that
you suggest or are you suggesting to place a common mode choke in addition
to the balun?

Interesting idea regarding the KPA100 latest version since 40m is the
troublesome band.  I purchased the KPA100 around 2011-2012, so I would think
it has the latest hardware but I'll double check when I get a chance.

73 Brian, N5BCN



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[Elecraft] New KE7X books for the K3s and K3

[Cady, Fred]

Greetings all,

Just to let you know that I have completed "The Elecraft K3s and P3 -- Getting 
the Most from Your High Performance Station".  This 324 page book includes over 
160 diagrams for you visual learners and 43 exercises showing how to use K3s 
features for those who learn by doing. A complete table of contents can be 
found at www.ke7x.com.  Elecraft will begin shipping 
printed, spiral-bound copies this week and a PDF version is available at 
www.lulu.com (search for Elecraft) and at 
www.ke7x.com.



"Upgrading the Elecraft K3 with K3s Components - Bridging the Gap" is available 
now.  This short, 50+ page booklet is targeted to K3 owners who now have "The 
Elecraft K3 - Design, Configuration, and Operation, 2nd Ed" book and who are 
wondering about or are planning to upgrade their K3 with K3s components.  It 
also will help those thinking about buying a used K3.   It offer's KE7X's 
recommendations and describes the operation of the new KIO3B I/O Interface and 
the new KXV3B Receive Antenna and Transverter Interface.   Spiral-bound printed 
copies and a PDF version are available at www.lulu.com and 
PDF also from www.ke7x.com.


I am working on "The Elecraft K3 and P3 -- Design, Configuration, and 
Operation, 3rd Edition".  This will combine the material in the K3 2nd Edition 
book with information on the KXV3B and KIO3B K3s components for those who 
upgrade and who would like the material all in one place.  This will be 
available shortly.


Please go to www.ke7x.com for answers to frequently asked 
question about KE7X  K-Line and KX-Line books, table of contents, and ordering 
information.


73 and cheers,

Fred KE7X






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[Elecraft] Accuracy of Wattmeter W2 under 2 Watt

[Hajo Dezelski]

Hello,

I have been using a wattmeter from Fox for powers under 1 Watt, but
the display is too nervous and hard to read. So I stumbled over the
Elecraft W2 and read that with the 200 W sensor, you can read also
power levels under 2 Watt. This would be really helpful for I
experiment with power levels down to 0.5 mW.

So before I invest, let me just ask some questions:

1. Has someone compared the power indicatores for the levels of 100 -
1000 mW with a precise wattmeter? As far as I understood each led
signifies 100 mW.

2. If I would use the computer readout: How precise is the output?
Just 100 mW or ist it e.g. 147 mW?

3. I am working max. 10 Watt with the Kx3, but normally use only
between 100 mW and 5 W max. Could I adjust  with the calibration of
active sensor down to let's say 1 Watt instead of 2 Watt?

4. Is it possible to modify the transformer T1 and T2 of the sensor so
that the range would be (20W - 2 W and 200 mW. Or is there a sensor
like this available on request from Elecraft.

I know a lot of questions, but as far as I can see this meter would be
a real champion for QRPP and could be used with a WSPR TRX.

73 de
Hajo (DL1SDZ)

---
Cela est bien dit, mais il faut cultiver notre jardin.
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[Elecraft] Search Archives

[Bill Gaines]

Is there any way to search the archives of this list to see if my question has 
already been addressed before?

AD8P

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

My take on this is baluns are baluns and common mode chokes are common 
mode chokes.  In many cases baluns do not provide adequate common mode 
choking requirements.  Thus both may be needed. Usually, the balun is 
located physically at the load and the common mode choke is located at 
the source.In certain antenna configurations, a balun is used at the 
feed point along with a common mode choke and then a 2nd common mode 
choke at the source is required as well.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10163
 


On 10/25/2015 10:09 AM, Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft wrote:

Don,

Yes, things settle down with a dummy load, so it looks like I'm dealing with
RF feedback.

Per the original post, I'm using an Elecraft BL2 balun at the
coax/ladderline junction.  Shouldn't this act as the common mode choke that
you suggest or are you suggesting to place a common mode choke in addition
to the balun?

Interesting idea regarding the KPA100 latest version since 40m is the
troublesome band.  I purchased the KPA100 around 2011-2012, so I would think
it has the latest hardware but I'll double check when I get a chance.

73 Brian, N5BCN



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Fred Jensen]

Yep, almost.  The word "balun" is a portmanteau of "balanced" and 
"unbalanced."  They are transformers or auto-transformers and their job 
is to keep a balanced feed to the antenna balanced when transitioning to 
unbalanced coax.  Since they're transformers, they can also transform 
the impedance.


Common mode chokes act as a series high impedance to current on the 
outside of the coax shield.  For RF, coaxial cable is really a 
3-conductor circuit because of the so-called "skin effect" ... inner 
conductor and inside of shield form one path are is unaffected by a CM 
choke.  Current can also be induced on the outside of the shield and is 
the common-mode current.  When transmitting, they can radiate close to 
the shack and get into places that don't like RF.  They can also distort 
the radiation pattern of the antenna.  When receiving, the outside of 
the shield acts as a vertical antenna and can pick up noise.


CM chokes are often a string of ferrite toroids taped together with the 
coax going through them.  Sometimes, the coax is wound several times 
through a larger toroid.  First place to put them is at the antenna-end 
of the coax.  In some cases, a CM choke at the station entrance will 
help as well, but it's not the first choice.


Jim, K9YC, has prepared "Common Mode Chokes [and other things] For 
Dummies" at http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  It's full of 
information, including some charts demonstrating that all ferrites are 
not created equal.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


On 10/25/2015 12:32 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:

My take on this is baluns are baluns and common mode chokes are common
mode chokes.  In many cases baluns do not provide adequate common mode
choking requirements.  Thus both may be needed. Usually, the balun is
located physically at the load and the common mode choke is located at
the source.In certain antenna configurations, a balun is used at the
feed point along with a common mode choke and then a 2nd common mode
choke at the source is required as well.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

The Elecraft BL2 is a good common mode choke.  It is rated at 250 watts 
into a *matched* load.
Your load certainly is not matched, and I do not know how to de-rate the 
power for any given load.
Check to see if the balun core heats - if so, you could be operating the 
BL2 outside its range of capability.

Note that I am only making a guess here.

One thing that you could do is to remove the coax from the tuner and 
measure the impedance of the entire antenna system with an antenna 
analyzer.  That will give you a better idea of whether to use the 1:1 or 
4:1 position on the balun.


Another thing to consider is the position on the antenna feedline in 
relationship to the radiator - the feedline should come away from the 
radiator at right angles for as far as possible.  If it does not, energy 
from the radiator can couple onto the feedline and create common mode 
current that is difficult to choke off - in that case, the choking 
impedance of the BL2 may not be sufficient and you may have to add 
additional common mode chokes.


As a quick test for common mode current on 40 meters, yes try tying a 33 
foot counterpoise wire to the ground post on the BL2 - keep the far end 
isolated and insulated because it will have a high RF voltage on it.  If 
it makes a difference, then you will have to get rid of the common mode 
current on the feedline.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/25/2015 11:09 AM, Brian - N5BCN via Elecraft wrote:

Don,

Yes, things settle down with a dummy load, so it looks like I'm dealing with
RF feedback.

Per the original post, I'm using an Elecraft BL2 balun at the
coax/ladderline junction.  Shouldn't this act as the common mode choke that
you suggest or are you suggesting to place a common mode choke in addition
to the balun?

Interesting idea regarding the KPA100 latest version since 40m is the
troublesome band.  I purchased the KPA100 around 2011-2012, so I would think
it has the latest hardware but I'll double check when I get a chance.

73 Brian, N5BCN



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Re: [Elecraft] Search Archives

[Phil Wheeler]

Sure.  I use http://marc.info/?l=elecraft  and 
check Subject (rather than Body). Works well for me.


73, Phil W7OX

On 10/25/15 11:20 AM, Bill Gaines wrote:

Is there any way to search the archives of this list to see if my question has 
already been addressed before?

AD8P




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Unstable power output on 40m (digital modes)

[Jim Brown]

Yes. And even more important -- the word "balun" is used to describe so 
many (at least) ten different very kinds of components that the word 
itself should be banned from our language.  ONE of those components is a 
common mode choke. Another is an array of common mode chokes. Another is 
a simple transformer. Another is a simple autotransformer. Another is a 
section of transmission line. Another is an array of sections of 
transmission line. Another is an active device to put broadband video on 
twisted pair. And so on.


73, Jim K9YC

On Sun,10/25/2015 12:32 PM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
My take on this is baluns are baluns and common mode chokes are common 
mode chokes.  In many cases baluns do not provide adequate common mode 
choking requirements.  Thus both may be needed. Usually, the balun is 
located physically at the load and the common mode choke is located at 
the source.In certain antenna configurations, a balun is used at 
the feed point along with a common mode choke and then a 2nd common 
mode choke at the source is required as well.


73 


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