Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

A Uber ground was developed for dry areas during WW2.  In damp areas, the 
concrete can do just what happened in the concrete pole test.

Per Wikipedia article:
"A disadvantage of Ufer grounds is that the moisture in the concrete can flash 
into steam during a lightning strike or similar high energy fault condition. 
This can crack the surrounding concrete and damage the building foundation.”

We have plenty of damp soil in northwest 7 land.

Best,
Rick
 
> On Apr 17, 2017, at 9:57 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:
> 
> 
> That isn't even close to being the same condition and only serves to help 
> perpetuate a stupid myth that refuses to die among the ill informed.  Anyone 
> that doesn't understand that a Ufer ground is essentially multiple ground 
> rods encased in concrete is indeed ill informed.  And anyone who doesn't 
> understand the mechanisms and considerations behind a Ufer ground shouldn't 
> be making contributions to threads like this.
> 
> Sorry for the ire displayed by me here, but this stupid topic keeps surfacing 
> year after year in ham radio circles ... and specifically this forum ... 
> without the least bit of thoughtful consideration behind it.  I'm tired of 
> our hobby, supposedly a technically based one, being subject to definitively 
> stated exhortations that are so demonstrably wrong.
> 
> Dave  AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 4/17/2017 9:09 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:
>> I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked 
>> for was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was 
>> considerable concern by the line workers that the poles might be more 
>> dangerous to work on than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To 
>> check this, we installed one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 
>> 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor around the pole.  When the station breaker 
>> was closed, the pole exploded dramatically, with a large fireball.  The 
>> results might have something to do with moisture content in the concrete.  
>> The results convinced us to only use the poles on transmission lines that 
>> wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with distribution lines.  Of course, the 
>> power levels are much higher in lightening strikes.  The conduction paths 
>> should similar from encapsulated ground rods in a tower base to Earth.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Rick  K7MW
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick  wrote:
>>> 
>>> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
>>> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
>>> 
>>> Doug
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> 
>>> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
>>> 
>>> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
>>> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
>>> 
>>> 73!
>>> 
>>> Ken - K0PP
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ---
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Richard Fjeld]

Just a comment on myth controversy when dealing with Lightning and 
grounding topics.

I know guys that are doing all the wrong things with their practices.  
They can't be persuaded otherwise.
Yet, the odds have favored them for years.  That reinforces their 
thinking that they are right and logic is wrong.
But I have seen what has happened to others.

Lightning strikes are one hazard.  Static energy build up on antenna 
systems is another.  Both can destroy.
And, then there is the lightning type potential coming in on the AC 
power line to consider.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/17/2017 10:32 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
>
> Doug
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[David Gilbert]

That isn't even close to being the same condition and only serves to 
help perpetuate a stupid myth that refuses to die among the ill 
informed.  Anyone that doesn't understand that a Ufer ground is 
essentially multiple ground rods encased in concrete is indeed ill 
informed.  And anyone who doesn't understand the mechanisms and 
considerations behind a Ufer ground shouldn't be making contributions to 
threads like this.


Sorry for the ire displayed by me here, but this stupid topic keeps 
surfacing year after year in ham radio circles ... and specifically this 
forum ... without the least bit of thoughtful consideration behind it.  
I'm tired of our hobby, supposedly a technically based one, being 
subject to definitively stated exhortations that are so demonstrably wrong.


Dave  AB7E



On 4/17/2017 9:09 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked for 
was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was considerable 
concern by the line workers that the poles might be more dangerous to work on 
than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To check this, we installed 
one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor 
around the pole.  When the station breaker was closed, the pole exploded 
dramatically, with a large fireball.  The results might have something to do 
with moisture content in the concrete.  The results convinced us to only use 
the poles on transmission lines that wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with 
distribution lines.  Of course, the power levels are much higher in lightening 
strikes.  The conduction paths should similar from encapsulated ground rods in 
a tower base to Earth.

73,
Rick  K7MW




On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick  wrote:

That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.

Doug


-Original Message-

-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Matt Zilmer]

Thanks, Jim.  The gain setting just has to be set to HIGH.  Bias off.  I 
checked my settings here for the first time in almost seven years.


You got me on that. I was thinking of the CM500 headset.  Bah.

73,

matt W6NIA


On 4/17/2017 9:13 PM, Jim McDonald wrote:

I have the HM10 Dual and HC4 headsets.  They do NOT need the bias.  I've used 
the HC4 with and without TXEQ; both are fine.

Jim N7US
Sent from my iPad


On Apr 17, 2017, at 11:00 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:

That depends on the mic itself.  The HC4- and HC5-based mics need bias ON, but 
don't know about the others (HC6?). Donis correct about the gain range setting. 
 Both elements are low output, so use HIGH.

z



On 4/17/2017 8:44 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
OK. And the bias setting?
Thanks, Steve

   From: Don Wilhelm 
  To: Steve Wilson ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 

  Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual
Steve,

Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil
microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!



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--
"A delay is better than a disaster."
-- unknonwn

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Augie "Gus" Hansen]

The HC4 and HC5 elements are low output dynamic types - no biasneeded. 
In fact, it must be off.


Gus Hansen
KB0YH

On 4/17/2017 10:00 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
That depends on the mic itself.  The HC4- and HC5-based mics need bias 
ON, but don't know about the others (HC6?). Donis correct about the 
gain range setting.  Both elements are low output, so use HIGH.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Jim McDonald]

I have the HM10 Dual and HC4 headsets.  They do NOT need the bias.  I've used 
the HC4 with and without TXEQ; both are fine.  

Jim N7US
Sent from my iPad


On Apr 17, 2017, at 11:00 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:

That depends on the mic itself.  The HC4- and HC5-based mics need bias ON, but 
don't know about the others (HC6?). Donis correct about the gain range setting. 
 Both elements are low output, so use HIGH.

z


> On 4/17/2017 8:44 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
> OK. And the bias setting?
> Thanks, Steve
> 
>   From: Don Wilhelm 
>  To: Steve Wilson ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> 
>  Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:35 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual
>Steve,
> 
> Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil
> microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the 
>> air. I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
>> https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
>>   Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
>> setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to 
>> the mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting 
>> that the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd 
>> ask here, in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should 
>> be Front Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Rick Dettinger]

I don’t think its a myth.  In the early 1970’s, the power company I worked for 
was testing out some hollow reinforced concrete poles.  There was considerable 
concern by the line workers that the poles might be more dangerous to work on 
than wooden poles, in the event of an accident.  To check this, we installed 
one of the poles in a sub station, and wrapped a 26KV 1200 amp feeder conductor 
around the pole.  When the station breaker was closed, the pole exploded 
dramatically, with a large fireball.  The results might have something to do 
with moisture content in the concrete.  The results convinced us to only use 
the poles on transmission lines that wouldn’t be worked hot, like we did with 
distribution lines.  Of course, the power levels are much higher in lightening 
strikes.  The conduction paths should similar from encapsulated ground rods in 
a tower base to Earth.

73,
Rick  K7MW



> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:32 PM, Doug Renwick  wrote:
> 
> That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
> partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.
> 
> Doug 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
> 
> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
> 
> 73!
> 
> Ken - K0PP
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Matt Zilmer]

That depends on the mic itself.  The HC4- and HC5-based mics need bias 
ON, but don't know about the others (HC6?). Donis correct about the gain 
range setting.  Both elements are low output, so use HIGH.


z


On 4/17/2017 8:44 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:

OK. And the bias setting?
Thanks, Steve

   From: Don Wilhelm 
  To: Steve Wilson ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 

  Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

Steve,


Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil
microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:

Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!



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--
"A delay is better than a disaster."
-- unknonwn

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Richard Fjeld]

Maybe this applies.
We have buried electrical service, but I don't think it matters.  I have 
been told the NEC now calls for four conductor service to include a 
ground wire from the transformer.

I depend on a ground tree.  I like the perimeter wire Don, w3fpr describes.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/17/2017 4:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:
> Hi,
>
> This is totally off topic; I apologize.
>
> I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
> radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
> two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
> swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
> rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
> could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
> "green wire" came from.
>
> But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
> they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
> neighbors have no ground rods installed either.
>
> Knut - AB2TC
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Steve Wilson via Elecraft]

I may have misread the Heil webpage. Heil responded and told me to read the K3 
manual. Ummm...I was. I just thought the Heil page would help clarify things. 
It did not, IMHO, and Elecraft couldn't help either. It would help if people, 
such as Heil, understood that we aren't all mic experts! 
This scenario kind of reminds me of the old days of supporting leased data 
lines when Pac Bell was responsible for the ends and AT in the middle. LOL!
Thanks, Steve

  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Steve Wilson ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual
   
Steve,

Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil 
microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi all,
> I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the 
> air. I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
> https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
>   Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
> setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
> mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
> the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask 
> here, in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be 
> Front Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!


   
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[Elecraft] FS - KX3 Complete Base Station price drop

[Jon Moody]

Greetings fellow Elecrafters,

I have reduced the price of this great gear from $2600 to $2400 and I will
throw in a Pelican 1510 case for it. This equipment is like new at least a
9 out of 10.  I also have a XV222 which works 100% and I had one of the
fine people on this forum put together for me.  The work is like a fine
jeweler.  Make me an offer if you would like it.

I have the following available for Sale.  These are all factory assembled ,
 rarely used, in a non smoking environment,  all original Elecraft boxes,
packaging, original printed manuals included.  Shipping only in the CONUS
and either cash or Paypal only.  Does NOT include optional Filter,  Paddle
or 2 Meter board.  Includes multiple  side protection panels for KX3 and
PX3 as well as the front covers.  Also includes set of Eneloop batteries.
Shipping cost and insurance is extra and will depend on where you live and
how fast you want it.  Would prefer to sell as a package.

Elecraft Product  Current Cost
KX3-F1049.95 Serial number 84xx
MH3 Mic59.95
KXAT3 199.95 Internal KX3 Antenna Tuner
KXBC3  79.95 Internal Battery and Clock
XG50 39.95External signal source
KX3-KXPA100 Cables   49.95   KX3 to KXPA100 connection cables
PX3-F   599.95   Panadapter
KXPA100-F  799.95   100 Watt PA
KXAT100  379.95   Internal 100 watt Antenna Tuner
KXPACBL   49.95   Cables for connecting everything

Total Current Cost   3309.50

Asking 2600 (paypal or cash)  + shipping + insurance to CONUS address.
Please email me privately at jmood...@gmail.com 

-- 
Thanks
Jon
KG6VDW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Steve Wilson via Elecraft]

OK. And the bias setting?
Thanks, Steve

  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Steve Wilson ; "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:35 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual
   
Steve,

Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil 
microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi all,
> I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the 
> air. I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
> https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
>   Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
> setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
> mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
> the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask 
> here, in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be 
> Front Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!


   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Heil is giving out erroneous information.  The low output Heil 
microphones require setting the K3 mic gain range to HIGH.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 11:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:

Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Lyle Johnson]

I'd try Front Panel, HIGH, no bias assuming this is a dynamic 
microphone.  In general, Heil dynamic mic elements have low output levels.


73,

Lyle KK7P


On 4/17/17 8:14 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:

... I deduced that the setting should be Front Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 
100% sure about that!


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Re: [Elecraft] OT; Feedline question

[Al Lorona]

If instead of using the relative permittivity of air, 1.00059, for calculations 
of open-wire line, you use the effective permittivity including any spacers 
used to homebrew the line, this value will increase slightly. 



For instance, I am using spacers made of a material called "nylon 6,6 30% glass 
fiber-reinforced" which happens to have a relative permittivity of 3.9. This 
has the effect of increasing the effective permittivity between the wires from 
1.00059 to 1.08656. Another way of saying this is that the velocity factor goes 
from 1 (for pure air) to 0.959, or about 96% with the spacers. The effect of 
this is to make the characteristic impedance of the line drop from around 480 
to around 460 ohms. 

( See http://www.emclab.cei.uec.ac.jp/xiao/Wire/index.html )

This obsessive exercise on my part illustrates that spacers don't make a whole 
lot of difference, but they do make a difference. You may want to include their 
effect or not.

Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Ground rods and concrete

[Doug Renwick]

That myth refuses to die. I have 5 concrete tower bases with ground rods
partially encased and never a worry about an exploding base.

Doug 


-Original Message-

-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Did you power the k3 off from the power button or by cutting power to the k3?





 Original message 
From: Steve Wilson via Elecraft  
Date: 2017-04-17  11:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3  Heil HM-10 Dual 

Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!
Here's the strange part about this story. I did have a QSO with a station in 
North Dakota after setting up the rig, so we knew all was working. We shut off 
the rig and I left for home. Later in the evening, my godfather turned the K3 
on and tried to transmit, but noticed that he wasn't getting any moving bars 
with the transmit audio. I walked him through putting the K3 into test mode, 
turning down the mic gain, and then turning up the mic gain while he was 
transmitting to find the optimum level, but we couldn't get the meter to show 
any response to the audio. I did the same procedure on my own K3 to make sure I 
was talking him through the right steps and it worked fine on mine. He did try 
a Heil headset with the same results. I plan to try and get up to visit again 
this weekend and bring a hand mic with me to try and make sure that it is 
definitely the K3 and not the mic.
So unless I'm missing something obvious, it seems like there is an issue with 
the K3 itself. Unfortunately, Elecraft support couldn't go beyond the same 
tests that I did last night.
Does anyone have any suggestions short of shipping to, or dropping off the rig, 
at Elecraft for a thorough test? 
Thanks, Steve  KG6HJU



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[Elecraft] K3 & Heil HM-10 Dual

[Steve Wilson via Elecraft]

Hi all,
I setup a K3, that my godfather is borrowing, while his Kenwood is off the air. 
I reviewed the webpage on the Heil Sound website here: 
https://heilsound.com/heil-amateur-radio/support/dsp-settings/all-things-elecraft/
  Unfortunately, the page refers to the mic with regard to the front panel 
setting, but does not specifically refer to the mic model with respect to the 
mic gain and mic bias settings. I sent an email to Heil Sound suggesting that 
the missing detail be added for this particular mic. But thought I'd ask here, 
in case anyone knew the answer. I deduced that the setting should be Front 
Panel, Low, No Bias, but am not 100% sure about that!
Here's the strange part about this story. I did have a QSO with a station in 
North Dakota after setting up the rig, so we knew all was working. We shut off 
the rig and I left for home. Later in the evening, my godfather turned the K3 
on and tried to transmit, but noticed that he wasn't getting any moving bars 
with the transmit audio. I walked him through putting the K3 into test mode, 
turning down the mic gain, and then turning up the mic gain while he was 
transmitting to find the optimum level, but we couldn't get the meter to show 
any response to the audio. I did the same procedure on my own K3 to make sure I 
was talking him through the right steps and it worked fine on mine. He did try 
a Heil headset with the same results. I plan to try and get up to visit again 
this weekend and bring a hand mic with me to try and make sure that it is 
definitely the K3 and not the mic.
So unless I'm missing something obvious, it seems like there is an issue with 
the K3 itself. Unfortunately, Elecraft support couldn't go beyond the same 
tests that I did last night.
Does anyone have any suggestions short of shipping to, or dropping off the rig, 
at Elecraft for a thorough test? 
Thanks, Steve  KG6HJU



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[Elecraft] [K3] FS: 73cnc Weighted Knobs

[mike]

For sale 73 cnc weighted main tuning and VFO B knobs in as new condition.
Main tuning knob has ball bearing finger dimple. Black. New cost $150. I
will selel them for $115 shipped insured CONTUS only. PayPal preferred.
Picture available. Email ai6ii (at) arrl (dot) net  73  ..mike  AI6II



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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Clay Autery]

That description appears to contain several NEC violations...

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/17/2017 4:40 PM, Mark via Elecraft wrote:
> Re:   I could see no wires going in to the ground.
>
> They really hide them these days.  I watched my house being built and noticed 
> that just below the service box, they passed the ground wire from the inside 
> of the wall to the outside, and then down to the ground rod.  Since the wall 
> was then covered with stucco, and the ground rod was covered with a concrete 
> walkway, it is all now invisible.
>
> Mark,
> KE6BB
> null

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[Elecraft] Filter for sale

[mark roz via Elecraft]

I have like new KFL3A-1.8k  filter for sale.
$129 shipped CONUS. PAYPAL OK.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Walter Underwood]

House grounds and tower grounds are designed for different hazards (and risks, 
which are hazards with dollars).

Direct lighting strikes on houses are less common than power line surges. So 
house grounds are designed for surges, which can be large. A direct strike on a 
stucco house is going to vaporize the wire mesh and blow the stucco off in 
several places. Ground rods won’t help that much.

A tower is much more likely to get a direct strike. The grounding system on a 
tower is designed to survive a feeder strike and reduce the destruction (risk) 
of a direct strike. Better to melt the coax than burn down the transmitter 
shack.

When I was in high school in Indianapolis, my next door neighbor was a ham with 
a tower. He had worked on lighting arrestors at GE. He explained that a 
lighting pulse had so much high-frequency energy that it more followed than 
conducted along a ground strap. It jumps from the strap to the building and 
back about every two feet. Lightning systems are a hint, not a directive. 
Nobody tells lightning what to do.

I like what I do, but working on lighting arrestors? That would be COOL.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Apr 17, 2017, at 4:16 PM, Wes Stewart  wrote:
> 
> Clearly, you have something in mind different from me.
> 
> https://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=12952
> 
> Tell me how you avoid the exploding concrete myth using something like this?
> 
> Or with a bolted base plate:
> 
> https://www.cableandwireshop.com/rohn-45g-tower-concrete-base-plate-r-bpc45g.html
> 
> Read the last sentence.
> 
> 
> On 4/17/2017 3:25 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
>> No, unless adequate steps are taken to assure a large ground grid is made.  
>> This requires more than just a slab.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Bill
>> K9YEQ
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes 
>> Stewart
>> Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 5:17 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete
>> 
>> Isn't the tower base pretty much a ground rod?
>> 
>> On 4/17/2017 2:16 PM, Rose wrote:
>>> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
>>> 
>>> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
>>> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
>>> 
>>> 73!
>>> 
>>> Ken - K0PP
>>> 
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>> delivered to k9...@live.com
>> 
> 
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> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org

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[Elecraft] P3/SVGA Digital terminal questions

[Ken K6MR]

I'm trying to assist a local with his K3S/P3/SVGA using the P3 terminal. I 
don't have the SVGA so trying to piece together the info using the manuals.  A 
few questions for all you P3 Terminal Digital mode users:


1. The P3 terminal setup looks to be identical for all modes. Mode is 
apparently set by selecting FSK-D, PSK-D or CW from the K3. Correct?


2. It says to keep text decode off on the K3. Does the Threshold adjustment 
have any effect? I've never used text decode. Is Auto good enough?


3. It looks like the easiest way to set everything up is Ctrl-Alt-S on the 
keyboard and adjust from there. Any reason to get into the 'regular' menus 
through the Menu button?


Thanks for any pointers you can pass on.


Ken K6MR
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[Elecraft] What is the correct way to hook up my K2 & K3 to my KAT500 & KPA300 ?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The KPA500 is connected to the the KAT500 via a 15pin cable (AUX on Amp,  AMP 
Control on KAT500)
The K3 is connected to the KAT500 via a 15 pin cable as well (ACC on K3, XCVR 
on KAT500)


I have a switch on the Input to the KPA500 that selects either the K2 or the K3


Do I connect the Key Out line from the K2 to the RCA Key IN (PTT RLY Red Jack)

and then the key signal to the AMP will be provided via the 15 pin cable?


Thank you
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Wes Stewart]

Clearly, you have something in mind different from me.

https://www.tessco.com/products/displayProductInfo.do?sku=12952

Tell me how you avoid the exploding concrete myth using something like this?

Or with a bolted base plate:

https://www.cableandwireshop.com/rohn-45g-tower-concrete-base-plate-r-bpc45g.html

Read the last sentence.


On 4/17/2017 3:25 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

No, unless adequate steps are taken to assure a large ground grid is made.  
This requires more than just a slab.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes 
Stewart
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 5:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

Isn't the tower base pretty much a ground rod?

On 4/17/2017 2:16 PM, Rose wrote:

-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP


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delivered to k9...@live.com



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Bill Johnson]

Good article with excellent grounding theory included.  Personally,  I remove 
my equipment from the antenna system remotely during bad weather and generally 
when not operating, via a remote antenna switch, which I forgot to mention.  
When storms are eminent, I disconnect remotely and allow the discharge devices 
to handle static issues without the rigs connected to the antennas. No losses 
to date   I also have homeowners insurance just in case the really big 
bolt, mother of all, should strike.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 5:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

Good information on grounding and lightning protection for the Amateur Radio 
Station can be found in the writings of Ron Block NR2B.  He published a series 
in QST for June, July and August of 2002.

Those articles can be downloaded from his website at 
http://wrblock.com/StationProtection/StationProtection.html

This information is what I based my grounding system on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 6:25 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:
> No, unless adequate steps are taken to assure a large ground grid is made.  
> This requires more than just a slab.
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[Elecraft] FS PR6 6M K3 preamp

[Gene Sochor]

Have one new in box PR6 available for $100, another used for $75. 
Shipping included within US; please contact off list.  Gene N9SW, PO 
Box 413, Wayne, IL 60184 Phone: 6304048100.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Don Wilhelm]

Good information on grounding and lightning protection for the Amateur 
Radio Station can be found in the writings of Ron Block NR2B.  He 
published a series in QST for June, July and August of 2002.


Those articles can be downloaded from his website at
http://wrblock.com/StationProtection/StationProtection.html

This information is what I based my grounding system on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 6:25 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

No, unless adequate steps are taken to assure a large ground grid is made.  
This requires more than just a slab.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Eric J]

That would make it tough to get a self-supported tower permitted in Los Angeles 
County and probably a lot of other jurisdictions. It wouldn't get past the 
engineering review.

Eric

KE6US

On 4/17/2017 3:16 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
Isn't the tower base pretty much a ground rod?

On 4/17/2017 2:16 PM, Rose wrote:
-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP


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.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Bill Johnson]

No, unless adequate steps are taken to assure a large ground grid is made.  
This requires more than just a slab. 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes 
Stewart
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 5:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

Isn't the tower base pretty much a ground rod?

On 4/17/2017 2:16 PM, Rose wrote:
> -NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.
>
> As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be 
> re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.
>
> 73!
>
> Ken - K0PP
>

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Wes Stewart]

Isn't the tower base pretty much a ground rod?

On 4/17/2017 2:16 PM, Rose wrote:

-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP



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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Fred Jensen]

You probably have a "UFER" ground, named for Herbert Ufer who came up 
with the idea of encasing the ground electrode in concrete to protect 
ordnance storage compartments during WW2, often in the southwestern US 
with very poor soil conductivity.  In the latter 60's, the NEC permitted 
it unless a buried water pipe was available, and sometime in the late 
70's made them a requirement.  The NEC now calls them Concrete Encased 
Electrodes.


The NEC currently requires that CEE's be rebar in the concrete [usually 
the foundation] and can be difficult to find since very little if 
anything will be externally visible.  Our home is 4 years old and I 
can't see the actual ground connection.  I can see the ground conductor 
headed downward from the service entrance.  I presume it connects to a 
CEE. [:-)


As to your power pole:  If it has a distribution transformer, it will 
very likely have lightning arrestors on the primary with a ground 
conductor and electrode.  If it doesn't have a transformer, it's only 
purpose is to hold up the conductors on insulators.


None of this drivel applies to RF.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn



On 4/17/2017 2:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi,

This is totally off topic; I apologize.

I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
"green wire" came from.

But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
neighbors have no ground rods installed either.

Knut - AB2TC



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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Mark via Elecraft]

Re:   I could see no wires going in to the ground.

They really hide them these days.  I watched my house being built and noticed 
that just below the service box, they passed the ground wire from the inside of 
the wall to the outside, and then down to the ground rod.  Since the wall was 
then covered with stucco, and the ground rod was covered with a concrete 
walkway, it is all now invisible.

Mark,
KE6BB
null
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Re: [Elecraft] Comm does not work after KIO3B installation

[Don Wilhelm]

Adde,

If you get any message at all on the computer, then the computer knows 
that "some" device is connected.
If that is the case, you may need to load the driver manually - download 
from the Elecraft website.
It is an FTDI USB to serial converter, and Windows 10 normally loads the 
driver properly.  I don't know about other versions or non-Windows OS.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 4:11 PM, Adde Tjernberg wrote:

Hi all!

I recently installed the KIO3B (the USB module) upgrade in my K3.

The K3 recognize the KIO3B board and I am able to choose "USb" under the
CONFIG->RS232 menu settings.

However, when connecting the K3 to my computer, the computer does not "see"
the radio. Nothing happens more than the computer says it does not
recognize the device.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Don Wilhelm]

Knut,

When I built my house in 2001, only one ground rod at the utility entry 
point was required.  We built a house next door in 2009, and two ground 
rods separated by 6 feet was required.  So sometime between those two 
dates the NEC requirements changed.


None-the-less, I have a perimeter wire around the house with a driven 
ground rod at each corner.  Since I have 45 degree corners on one side, 
and several other 90 degree offsets that means I have 9 ground rods plus 
the one at the utility entry, so I think I am "covered".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/17/2017 5:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi,

This is totally off topic; I apologize.

I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
"green wire" came from.

But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
neighbors have no ground rods installed either.

Knut - AB2TC



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[Elecraft] OT: Groond rods and concrete

[Rose]

-NEVER- encase a ground rod in concrete ... especially a tower base.

As a retired 2-way radio tech, I'm aware of two towers that had to be
re-installed because of lightening strikes exploding their concrete bases.

73!

Ken - K0PP



On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 3:06 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:

> Most house grounds are just a piece of re-bar hammered into the soil,
> andthis is done before the foundation is poured around it. Ours is barely
> visible except for the big chair clamp that secures the bare #8 wire to it.
> I've seen it other ways too, for example in the upper midwest.  The ground
> we had in Iowa was three copper-plated rods within about one square foot,
> all bonded together.  Not sure why anyone would do that, but the builder
> did the same for all houses in that development.
>
> 73,
>
> matt W6NIA
>
>
> On 4/17/2017 2:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> This is totally off topic; I apologize.
>>
>> I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
>> radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC
>> requires
>> two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas.
>> I
>> swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no
>> ground
>> rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
>> could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
>> "green wire" came from.
>>
>> But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
>> they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
>> neighbors have no ground rods installed either.
>>
>> Knut - AB2TC
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabb
>> le.com/OT-electrical-safety-tp7629429.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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>>
>
> --
> "A delay is better than a disaster."
> -- unknonwn
>
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> [Shiraz]
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Bill Johnson]

Or you are the ground! :-)  Open your panel cover, if you are comfortable, and 
look for copper to grounding bar installation.  I had my electrician bind an 
around the foundation wire to my box and then to the rebar.  At the time I 
built there was no inspector, 2004.  Can you believe it?  Lots of pathetic 
electrical work in the world.  Wonder why all the fires?

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Miller
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 4:04 PM
To: ab2tc 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

I'm guessing you and your neighbors have grounding via a basement slab Ufer.

73

jim ab3cv

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 5:00 PM, ab2tc  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This is totally off topic; I apologize.
>
> I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for 
> the radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC 
> requires two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind 
> any antennas. I swear that when when I moved into this house there 
> were absolutely no ground rods installed. I just inspected our power 
> pole that supplies our power. I could see no wires going in to the 
> ground. So I have no idea where our "green wire" came from.
>
> But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas 
> and they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I 
> bet my neighbors have no ground rods installed either.
>
> Knut - AB2TC
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/OT-electrical-safety-tp7629429.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Matt Zilmer]

Most house grounds are just a piece of re-bar hammered into the soil, 
andthis is done before the foundation is poured around it. Ours is 
barely visible except for the big chair clamp that secures the bare #8 
wire to it. I've seen it other ways too, for example in the upper 
midwest.  The ground we had in Iowa was three copper-plated rods within 
about one square foot, all bonded together.  Not sure why anyone would 
do that, but the builder did the same for all houses in that development.


73,

matt W6NIA


On 4/17/2017 2:00 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi,

This is totally off topic; I apologize.

I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
"green wire" came from.

But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
neighbors have no ground rods installed either.

Knut - AB2TC



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-- unknonwn

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
[Shiraz]

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Re: [Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[Jim Miller]

I'm guessing you and your neighbors have grounding via a basement slab Ufer.

73

jim ab3cv

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 5:00 PM, ab2tc  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This is totally off topic; I apologize.
>
> I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
> radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
> two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
> swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no
> ground
> rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
> could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
> "green wire" came from.
>
> But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
> they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
> neighbors have no ground rods installed either.
>
> Knut - AB2TC
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/OT-electrical-safety-tp7629429.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] OT; electrical safety

[ab2tc]

Hi,

This is totally off topic; I apologize.

I just received the new ARRL publication "grounding and bonding  for the
radio amateur". It is very interesting reading. I see that the NEC requires
two ground rods for regular power installations; never mind any antennas. I
swear that when when I moved into this house there were absolutely no ground
rods installed. I just inspected our power pole that supplies our power. I
could see no wires going in to the ground. So I have no idea where our
"green wire" came from.

But I have have installed two 8 foot ground rods to ground my antennas and
they are bonded to the AC entry panel. But what's up with this? I bet my
neighbors have no ground rods installed either.

Knut - AB2TC



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[Elecraft] Comm does not work after KIO3B installation

[Adde Tjernberg]

Hi all!

I recently installed the KIO3B (the USB module) upgrade in my K3.

The K3 recognize the KIO3B board and I am able to choose "USb" under the
CONFIG->RS232 menu settings.

However, when connecting the K3 to my computer, the computer does not "see"
the radio. Nothing happens more than the computer says it does not
recognize the device.

The "old style" RS232 communication does not work either.

Before installing the KIO3B module I upgraded to latest fw (5.57).

Any ideas why it does not work?

73 de Adde, SM0SHG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on JT-65, ALC varies widely

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

> I set the LINE IN gain to 30 (midrange).

This is generally too high - I run between 10 and 15.


The speaker output is set to 90%,


Are you running the "bare" speaker output to the Line In or
do you have a 10:1 (20 dB) attenuator between the speaker
output and the Line Input?


but there is an amplitude slider in WSJT-X, and I adjusted that to 5
bars of ALC in WSJT Tune mode (constant 1100 Hz tone in this case).


This is the *WORST PLACE* to adjust the level.  Set the WSJT-X slider
to max and make an attenuator with a 10K resistor from the speaker out
to the top of a 1 K pot and connect the wiper of the port to Line IN.
Adjust drive with the pot.


On an external analog wattmeter, I could see the power ramping up on
some of the longer duration tones.


This is a symptom of insufficient audio drive and/or failure to
properly perform Transmitter Gain CAL (in the K3 Utility).

> So then I took an oscilloscope and measured the audio voltage coming
> out of the sound card, and found that each tone has a different
> voltage level coming out of the sound card!  The audio level varies
> all over the place as the CQ goes on.

Contact the WJTS-X development team - their list is:
wsjtgr...@yahoogroups.com


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/17/2017 1:43 PM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:

I am working on this some more this morning.

I set the LINE IN gain to 30 (midrange).  The speaker output is set
to 90%, but there is an amplitude slider in WSJT-X, and I adjusted
that to 5 bars of ALC in WSJT Tune mode (constant 1100 Hz tone in
this case).  The K3 is definitely in DATA A mode.

Then I called CQ, and the ALC meter and power output were all over
the place from 0 - 5 on ALC, and 10 Watts to 70 Watts on power
output.  On an external analog wattmeter, I could see the power
ramping up on some of the longer duration tones.

So then I took an oscilloscope and measured the audio voltage coming
out of the sound card, and found that each tone has a different
voltage level coming out of the sound card!  The audio level varies
all over the place as the CQ goes on.  JT-65 is supposed to be
constant amplitude tones of 65 different frequencies, so something is
not working right, either in the WSJT-X program or in my computer.  I
will look into that some more.  It is not a K3 problem.

I am using WSJT-X v. 1.7.0 r7405.  The sound card is an old
Soundblaster Live that works just fine for transmitting WAV and live
microphone on SSB.

Anyway, I am making QSO’s, some of them with signal strength as low
as –25 dB.  I don’t think I am long for this mode anyway.  Life is
too short for 1 Baud communication.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, Arizona







-Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, April 16,
2017 7:41 PM To: Brian Hunt ; Reflector Elecraft Subject: Re:
[Elecraft] K3 on JT-65, ALC varies widely

Brian,

Try this -- set the K3 LINE in gain to somewhere near mid-range, and
 then adjust the soundcard "speaker" slider to give you close to the
4 ALC bars with the 5th bar flashing.  Refine that level with slight
 adjustments to the LINE in gain.

You can use TX TEST while making those adjustments which will not
transmit any RF.

Adjust the desired power output with the power knob.

If you do not achieve the required number of ALC bars, the K3 will
"power hunt" causing significant fluctuations in the output power.

There seems to be a greater number of questions about this "problem"
for users of "JT" software than for other soundcard data modes.  I
don't know why because the "JT" software should be no different than
any other soundcard data mode.  Perhaps the user is trying to follow
the recommendations in the JT mode instructions (I have not looked at
them), but typically data mode instructions are for non-Elecraft
tranceivers and say that the user should set the power to maximum and
use the soundcard audio to adjust the power level.  That does not
work with Elecraft gear which controls power differently than other
amateur transceivers.  For Elecraft transceivers, adjust the audio
level as specified and adjust the desired power with the power knob.
I cannot stress this fact enough.

73, Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2017 9:19 PM, Brian Hunt wrote:

Don't see a problem with making minor adjustments of the Line In
gain during the first transmission. When I adjust the level using
the WSJT TUNE button I usually see the wild fluctuations mentioned.
A small "tweak" to the gain will set right.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 tuner getting stuck at 25.4:1 SWR

[Walter Underwood]

25.4:1 SWR is what the KX3 reads for a short or an open, if I remember 
correctly.

Agreed, open it up, make sure everything is tight, include the ribbon cable.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Apr 17, 2017, at 11:20 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Nate,
> 
> Since the problem is intermittent, I would not suspect a problem with an 
> active component.
> 
> You might want to remove the bottom cover and check to be certain the 
> hardware on the BNC jack is tight and the LPF on the BNC connector is 
> properly positioned.  You may have to lift the KXAT3 to check - see Figure 43 
> of the KX3 Kit Assembly Manual.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 4/16/2017 4:55 AM, nate t wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I was working with my KX3 earlier today, RX only, using an endfed, while 
>> running on batteries, RXing WSPR and PSK31.
>> After running for a bit, the ATU seemed to stop working. Attempting to 
>> retune on 40m, it would stick at a 25.4:1 SWR.
>> Tried switching down to 20m and it retuned right away to a 1.3:1. Applying 
>> external power to the unit, I tried tuning again on 40m (battery was 
>> reporting 10V if I recall correctly); It then tuned the end fed up, but only 
>> to a 1.7, which it will typically match to a 1.0:1, it would also get stuck 
>> at the 25.4:1 SWR on some of the attempted tunes.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 tuner getting stuck at 25.4:1 SWR

[Brian Waterworth]

I had a similar problem at Winter Field Day.  Between the dummy load and
the rig on a 3' patch cord, SWR wouldn't settle to 1.0:1.  Cracked the
hatch, looked around.  Touched nothing inside.  Put the KX3 back together,
presto, SWR started behaving itself again.  The ATU now matches to expected
values and has been rock solid for the antennas I connect to the rig.

So, I can support part of Don's suggestion to open it up from personal
experience.

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 2:20 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Nate,
>
> Since the problem is intermittent, I would not suspect a problem with an
> active component.
>
> You might want to remove the bottom cover and check to be certain the
> hardware on the BNC jack is tight and the LPF on the BNC connector is
> properly positioned.  You may have to lift the KXAT3 to check - see Figure
> 43 of the KX3 Kit Assembly Manual.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/16/2017 4:55 AM, nate t wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I was working with my KX3 earlier today, RX only, using an endfed, while
>> running on batteries, RXing WSPR and PSK31.
>>
>> After running for a bit, the ATU seemed to stop working. Attempting to
>> retune on 40m, it would stick at a 25.4:1 SWR.
>>
>> Tried switching down to 20m and it retuned right away to a 1.3:1.
>> Applying external power to the unit, I tried tuning again on 40m (battery
>> was reporting 10V if I recall correctly); It then tuned the end fed up, but
>> only to a 1.7, which it will typically match to a 1.0:1, it would also get
>> stuck at the 25.4:1 SWR on some of the attempted tunes.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 tuner getting stuck at 25.4:1 SWR

[Don Wilhelm]

Nate,

Since the problem is intermittent, I would not suspect a problem with an 
active component.


You might want to remove the bottom cover and check to be certain the 
hardware on the BNC jack is tight and the LPF on the BNC connector is 
properly positioned.  You may have to lift the KXAT3 to check - see 
Figure 43 of the KX3 Kit Assembly Manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2017 4:55 AM, nate t wrote:

Hi,

I was working with my KX3 earlier today, RX only, using an endfed, while 
running on batteries, RXing WSPR and PSK31.

After running for a bit, the ATU seemed to stop working. Attempting to retune 
on 40m, it would stick at a 25.4:1 SWR.

Tried switching down to 20m and it retuned right away to a 1.3:1. Applying 
external power to the unit, I tried tuning again on 40m (battery was reporting 
10V if I recall correctly); It then tuned the end fed up, but only to a 1.7, 
which it will typically match to a 1.0:1, it would also get stuck at the 25.4:1 
SWR on some of the attempted tunes.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on JT-65, ALC varies widely

[Dave Hachadorian]

I am working on this some more this morning.

I set the LINE IN gain to 30 (midrange).  The speaker output is set to 90%, but 
there is an amplitude slider in WSJT-X, and I adjusted that to 5 bars of ALC in 
WSJT Tune mode (constant 1100 Hz tone in this case).  The K3 is definitely in 
DATA A mode.

Then I called CQ, and the ALC meter and power output were all over the place 
from 0 - 5 on ALC, and 10 Watts to 70 Watts on power output.  On an external 
analog wattmeter, I could see the power ramping up on some of the longer 
duration tones.

So then I took an oscilloscope and measured the audio voltage coming out of the 
sound card, and found that each tone has a different voltage level coming out 
of the sound card!  The audio level varies all over the place as the CQ goes 
on.  JT-65 is supposed to be constant amplitude tones of 65 different 
frequencies, so something is not working right, either in the WSJT-X program or 
in my computer.  I will look into that some more.  It is not a K3 problem.

I am using WSJT-X v. 1.7.0 r7405.  The sound card is an old Soundblaster Live 
that works just fine for transmitting WAV and live microphone on SSB.

Anyway, I am making QSO’s, some of them with signal strength as low as –25 dB.  
I don’t think I am long for this mode anyway.  Life is too short for 1 Baud 
communication.

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, Arizona







-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 7:41 PM 
To: Brian Hunt ; Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 on JT-65, ALC varies widely 

Brian,

Try this -- set the K3 LINE in gain to somewhere near mid-range, and 
then adjust the soundcard "speaker" slider to give you close to the 4 
ALC bars with the 5th bar flashing.  Refine that level with slight 
adjustments to the LINE in gain.

You can use TX TEST while making those adjustments which will not 
transmit any RF.

Adjust the desired power output with the power knob.

If you do not achieve the required number of ALC bars, the K3 will 
"power hunt" causing significant fluctuations in the output power.

There seems to be a greater number of questions about this "problem" for 
users of "JT" software than for other soundcard data modes.  I don't 
know why because the "JT" software should be no different than any other 
soundcard data mode.  Perhaps the user is trying to follow the 
recommendations in the JT mode instructions (I have not looked at them), 
but typically data mode instructions are for non-Elecraft tranceivers 
and say that the user should set the power to maximum and use the 
soundcard audio to adjust the power level.  That does not work with 
Elecraft gear which controls power differently than other amateur 
transceivers.  For Elecraft transceivers, adjust the audio level as 
specified and adjust the desired power with the power knob.  I cannot 
stress this fact enough.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2017 9:19 PM, Brian Hunt wrote:
>   Don't see a problem with making minor adjustments of the Line In gain 
> during the first transmission. When I adjust the level using the WSJT TUNE 
> button I usually see the wild fluctuations mentioned. A small "tweak" to the 
> gain will set right.
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] SVGA Option: transmitted text not visible on external display

[Adrian Helwig via Elecraft]

Ok thanks!Any Idea if this will be implemented in the future?I was convinced 
that this will be the same as with PX3 where this is implementedTechnically, no 
issue, right?
73, Adrian, DH1AHL
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park

[Doug Smith]

I used to work Field Day with a friend in the two transmitter class.  At our 
first Field Day, we had the usual problems as described by the original poster. 
 Especially so because we were both running 500 watts.

On our second and all subsequent operations we operated with one station on a 
vertical and the other with a horizontal antenna.  That helped a lot.  

On our third and subsequent mountain top FD expeditions we put a receive-only 
antenna 800 feet away and fed the sigs back to the operating tent with a big 
roll of RG-6 quad shield.

Problem solved.

There are a few mechanisms available to aid in “separation”.  Get the antennas 
physically as far apart as possible.  Try cross polarization.  Operate on bands 
as far apart as possible.  Band pass filters.  Stubs.  Some antenna tuners are 
configured as low pass; some are configured as high pass.  Single band resonant 
antennas are band pass filters (watch out for odd harmonics).

73,
Doug, W7KF
http://www.w7kf.com 



> On Apr 17, 2017, at 9:14 AM, Bert via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> Jack, W6FB, made a good point about resonant antennas. Going with  this 
> idea, separate resonant antennas should be used for each band, and mobile  
> antennas, being high-Q may be particularly desirable. However, minus separate 
>  
> bandpass filters (to augment interference rejection), physical separation of 
> the  antennas by some(?) distance is also desirable. In the case of 
> horizontal  antennas (dipoles, yagis, etc), orientation (right angles or 
> end-to-end) 
> along  with physical separation is key.
> 
> Multiband and non-resonant antennas can't be counted on for signal  
> rejection in most cases.
> 
> The best lessons for minimizing station-to-station interference can  be 
> gleaned from multi-multi stations; their challenges and how they overcome  
> them 
> are always insightful.
> 
> 73, Bert N4CW
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] A little theory.

[David Pratt]

Thank you, Fred. Having one of the CNC knobs on my K3, I had forgotten
about that. I did not realise it was causing such an issue.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, Fred C. Jensen  writes
>My K3 has one, it's around the Big Knob.

>Fred K6DGW
>Sparks NV DM09dn

>David Pratt  wrote:
>>Excuse my ignorance, Tim; maybe I am being naive, but could you
>explain
>>to which Elecraft products you are referring? I do not know of any 'O'
>>rings in any of my Elecraft transceivers.
>
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] A little theory.

[Fred C. Jensen]

My K3 has one, it's around the Big Knob.

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn

David Pratt  wrote:
>Excuse my ignorance, Tim; maybe I am being naive, but could you explain
>to which Elecraft products you are referring? I do not know of any 'O'
>rings in any of my Elecraft transceivers.
>
>73 de David G4DMP
>
>In a recent message, "k...@juno.com"  writes
>>
>>A long time admirer. For me, his "O ring and a glass of ice water"
>>demonstrationwhich kicked the air out of the NASA gas bags during
>>theChallenger Disaster inquiry was most memorable. A remarkable man.
>>72, Tim Colbert  K3HX
>-- 
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
> | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
> | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
> + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
>
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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory.

[David Pratt]

Excuse my ignorance, Tim; maybe I am being naive, but could you explain
to which Elecraft products you are referring? I do not know of any 'O'
rings in any of my Elecraft transceivers.

73 de David G4DMP

In a recent message, "k...@juno.com"  writes
>
>A long time admirer. For me, his "O ring and a glass of ice water"
>demonstrationwhich kicked the air out of the NASA gas bags during
>theChallenger Disaster inquiry was most memorable. A remarkable man.
>72, Tim Colbert  K3HX
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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[Elecraft] A little theory.

[k...@juno.com]

A long time admirer. For me, his "O ring and a glass of ice water" 
demonstrationwhich kicked the air out of the NASA gas bags during theChallenger 
Disaster inquiry was most memorable. A remarkable man. 72, Tim Colbert  K3HX

3 Things You Should Know About Probiotics
Gundry MD
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/58f41b72a88351b725e44st04duc
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - operating QRP at same park

[Bert via Elecraft]

Jack, W6FB, made a good point about resonant antennas. Going with  this 
idea, separate resonant antennas should be used for each band, and mobile  
antennas, being high-Q may be particularly desirable. However, minus separate  
bandpass filters (to augment interference rejection), physical separation of 
the  antennas by some(?) distance is also desirable. In the case of 
horizontal  antennas (dipoles, yagis, etc), orientation (right angles or 
end-to-end) 
along  with physical separation is key.
 
Multiband and non-resonant antennas can't be counted on for signal  
rejection in most cases.
 
The best lessons for minimizing station-to-station interference can  be 
gleaned from multi-multi stations; their challenges and how they overcome  them 
are always insightful.
 
73, Bert N4CW
 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Leaky coax

[Barry]

Ken G Kopp wrote
> Trivia: It's not unusual for a grain train to be much longer that the
> tunnel through the Continental Divide.

Reminiscing back to my third semester of Physics in college (Relativity), it
depends on the speed of the train  :-)

Barry W2UP




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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 for sale

[Paul VanOveren]

Very nice Elecraft K3 for sale.  SN   #758
Included options are
KPA 100, 100 watt module
KT3A Internal antenna tuner w/2nd SO239 input
KIO3, digital interface
KRX3 second receiver module
KXV3 Receive antenna interface option
K3DVR Digital Voice Recorder
K3FLA  250 hz CW filters 8 pole matching (2)
K3FLA  500 hz CW filters 5 pole matching (2)
K3FLA  2.7 hz  SSB filter standard option  (2)
All manuals, power cord, Fred Cady book
Cosmetically 9/10, non smoking environment, I am original owner, DSP boards
upgraded
and 15 hardware mods done at factory in 2012.  Pictures available, email me
at
pauln...@gmail.com or phone 616  868-7149
Shipped insured, double boxed, CONUS$2500.00
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Re: [Elecraft] A little theory

[jrquark]

The Berkeley Physic Series is wonderful.  But, on a sad note, while I was at 
Fermi, I worked with Kambiu Luk, a researcher from Berkeley, I asked about that 
series, he said that it proved to be too difficult.  Sigh!

Jim - K7BIE

> On Apr 16, 2017, at 10:04 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> Ditto on Purcells’s Electricity & Magnetism (part of the Berkeley Physics 
> Series) that I had as an undergrad, I still have my original copy (1965) plus 
> the latest edition updated by Morin and published in 2013.
> 
>> On Apr 16, 2017, at 6:34 PM, KarlErb  wrote:
>> 
>> I envy you that Jim.  His books (and Ed Purcell's) helped me make sense of 
>> E to Yale undergrads in the 70's.  I still leaf through them.
>> "What do you care what other people think" was another of his great 
>> contributions IMHO.
>> karl WBF
>> 
>>> On Apr 16, 2017, at 4:54 PM, jrquark  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dick was my mentor many years ago, I still feel honored to have been a 
>>> student of his.
>>> 
>>> Jim - K7BIE
>>> 
 On Apr 16, 2017, at 3:16 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:
 
 I'll attest that it is great and interesting reading for anyone interested
 in Physics. I bought the three-volume set in San Francisco back in the
 1980's, and it remains a valued part of my scientific library alongside
 Pauling's text on Inorganic Chemistry. 
 
 Feynman also wrote an eloquent text on quantum electrodynamics for those
 with little scientific background called "QED The Strange Theory of Light
 and Matter". 
 
 And for some thoughtful insights into Feynman himself there is his book 
 "The
 Meaning of it All - Thoughts of a Citizen-Scientist" or for a few chuckles
 his autobiographical book "What do YOU Care What Other People Think?" 
 
 I strive to live by his advice, "Study hard what interests you the most in
 the most undisciplined, irreverent and original manner possible." 
 
 I'm afraid not all of my college instructors agreed, however.
 
 73, Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
 kev...@coho.net
 Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 11:41 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; QRP-L Mailing List
 Subject: [Elecraft] A little theory
 
 If you are not familiar with Richard Feynman he was a physicist who worked
 on the Manhattan Project.  He was also a professor at Caltech.  
 Here are some of his lectures on physics which he offered to undergrads.
 Introductory college level physics taught by a master.
 
 http://www.feynmanlectures.caltech.edu/
 
 73 & GL,
 
   Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
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 Message delivered to jamesfors...@me.com
>>> 
>>> __
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> 

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