I'm getting back to ham radio after some 20 years. I recently received my KX3
kit #1716 and the build went smoothly. At least it works! I am so impressed
with it and what I hear from Lyle and others in the local QRP group that I
ordered a K3 .. arrives tomorrow. Now I have something similar
I did order the 400Hz filter. Maybe I should have included the addons I have
ordered.
K3/100 just in case I need the power;-))
KAT3 tuner
KRX3
KBPF3
MH2
KFL3A-400
Thanks for the suggestion however.
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Thanks Mike. I would love to load it up but social security only goes so far.
I'll need to get rid of my ageing Icoms (IC751A and IC740 ) to help pay for the
K3 but that's for later. Anyone know of a good place to list used gear?
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions and sorry if there is OT
I am in the final stages (testing and calibration) of building my K3. While
building I reasearched a bit more into the sub receiver thing and decided it
was neither useful nor of interest to me. So...
I have one new, never opened (except to inventory small parts) KRX3 for sale at
a small
Gentlemen the unit has been sold.
Tnx, PJ
N7PXY
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While reading the K3 build manual last night I noticed that on page 48, Fig.70
the text again emphatically warns to use a split washer under the hold down
screw while the picture shows an inside tooth washer under the screw. I thought
I'd bring this up as some people are very visually
I am wrong. It was pointed out to me that I had misread the page and after
reading it yet again I find that I have got it wrong. Sorry, guys... carry on.
PJ, N7PXy
- Original Message -
While reading the K3 build manual last night I noticed that on page 48, Fig.70
the text
I have only seen pictures of a Hex Beam so really have no 'feel' for it. In all
the oics it is mounted 'bowl' fashion with the curvature up. What would be the
effect of mounting it 'down' umbrella style?
PJH N7PXY
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I have struggled with the build of my K3/100 #6937 (kit) for several weeks
trying to solve these problem(s) myself. No joy! I have read and reread the
manuals so many times that at this point I only confuse myself more each time I
go over it. I really would like to get this thing on the air.
First I want to thank all those who tried to help me resolve the several issues
with my K3/100 kit. After several days of tradeing emails and doing the
suggested tests and checks I, we, Elecraft, have been unable to get it going so
I'm throwing in the towel and sending it to them for repair.
So sorry, I forgot to delete the main body of the email in the responce. Damn!
PJH, N7PXY
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As long as we are talking screws I thought I'd mention a situation that
occurred last night. While moving my K3 to get at the rear panel I noticed that
one of the acorn nuts from one of the fans had fallen off. In checking the rest
of them I found them in various stages of looseness. I
The Seattle and environs pQRP group will hold its Salmoncon 2013 event this
weekend Friday thur Sunday.
Call sign is N7S location is near North Bend, WA.
All modes will be covered; CW, SSB, PSK-31, etc. Mostly QRP, look on or near
the QRP calling freqs. Some early birds have started
I do not often have problems with jumpers or long runs as I use a 'proper'
crimper to make BNC connectors/jumpers. I have often wondered what the proper
procedure is to makeup UHF connectors (often one of each on the jumper).
Perhaps you or someone might detail the procedure for us. I'm sure
I just checked and tonight is the correct wed night. Seven Seas Brewery in Gig
Harbor about 6:30
PJ
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Sorry guys. Must have hit the wrong button. There are other thing/interests
besides radio. Some people do not think so but Hey. Anyway if you are in the
area on alternate wednedays we welcome all intereste d in fly tying... and
buying a round hi hi.
again sorry for the band width.
P J
I see I sent an email re my fly tying group to the wrong address. Sorry for the
wasted bandwidth.
PJH, N7PXY
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One of the guys posted a wooden stand that he made for his KX3 on the KX3 yahoo
group and put pics in the photo section. I used his example to make one out of
black engineering plastic. His is nicer looking but both work very very well
and have great viewing angles. Pics of mine are there
It's been a while since I've seen any chatter about the soon to be released
KXPA100 regarding cost and availability. Any one have any new info?
PJH, N7PXY
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I ran the proceedure some months ago and all went well but latey I notice the
freq. drifting more and more as time goes by. Is this normal and should I run
the proceedure again and periodically?
PJH, N7PXY
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I work PSK31 almost exclusively. Mostly because I like it but partly because my
CW is not up to being ON THE AIR ... yet. The benefit to me is I can
occasionally pull in a DX station with 5watts and a simple dipole antenna. It
is a somewhat slower paced communication, and is concentrated
Shortly after I got my KX3, #1716 I think, I noticed some moderate drift while
doing PSK31. I bought, built and ran the Extende d VFO C ompensation procedure
and things improved. Now, about a year or 18 months later I am told I have
drift showing up on my signal. I re-ran the procedure and
I am building a XV144 transciever for connection to my K3. I have never used a
transverter before. In reading the construction manual and the operators
manual I conclude that when I switch to 10 meters on the K3 that the xv144 is
switched in, the K3 display will indicate in the 144 mHz range
While all the above statements may be true here is my experience... but with a
KX3 mind you!
I have the model 684 serial 24 key keypad. It is connected to my KX3 through a
Y connection to the serial port on the KX3 (ACC1 if I recall correctly).
After programming, it has no connection to the
Other than an excuse to build something there might be another way. I haven't
used one on my K3 but I do use one on my KX3.
I have a Genovation model 684 serial programmable keypad that has 24 keys. One
of those is used as a shift key so I have access to 46 macros at the touch of a
button.
Joe, W4TV,
You mentioned getting better performance out of a SLUSB by doing some
modifications. I am wondering if you did anything different than is called out
in the several web pages on Modifying the Signal Link USB?
PJH, N7PXY
I have done a bit of 0603/4 but mostly 0805 size. What works for me is a small
helper I made. Actually the first of two; the second is much more elaborate.
I do my boards flat/horizontal in a holding fixture so it doesn't move around.
Then I made a 'T' shaped wire 'holder' that rests on
I consider myself a casual operator. I get on when I can, avoid the contests,
rag chew a lot, and have fun. I mostly work SSB with my K3 but am working on
code speed. I use WIN4K3 as a control program and panadaptor.
These differences are purely subjective and without measurement. All
Also don't forget to add a bit over 1/2" for each piece of equipment to allow
for the handles or remove them.
PJH, N7PXY
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Yesterday, Jim K9YC posted a link to a .pdf file dealing with shack grounding.
It is obviously a slide presentation suitable for a group lecture. Is there a
more "printer friendly" copy of that information? I like to print out and study
things of that sort on paper and the slide style
Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is
relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will
tell you how I would do it without major tools.
1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece;
top, bottom, sides,
There is/was quite a long discussion and lots of experimentation with 9:1 unun
and random wire lengths on the pQRP group in the last month or so. Check it
out.
PJH, N7PXY
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AC7AC,
Some months ago I was looking at keyers and Arduino variations of keyers and
came across an article that said the author had built a keyer and generated
code for adding small random timing variations in the character stream and
characters themselves that made the code sound more
I've been using a 24 key Genovations keypad on my KX3 for almost 2 years now.
Love it. One button press to change all manner of things without having to
remember all the steps and commands. 24 keys with the shift/toggle feature
gives me 46 macros.
I used msWORD and a template by VR2SS,
Has anyone built the resonator with a straight length of tube? Perhaps
terminated with a 45 deg. cut?
Might be an interesting experiment.
The 45 deg long radius street elbow in 2" is an order only item in my area so
thought I'd substitute a straight length.
PJH, N7PXY
.
Mel, K6KBE
From: P.J.Hicks <hickspj...@comcast.net>
To: ELECRAFT <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2016 3:33 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Mag loop bender
Bending tube for Mag loop.
Simplest way is to get a piece of plywood about 3' to 4' square. Cut an arch of
18&
Bending tube for Mag loop.
Simplest way is to get a piece of plywood about 3' to 4' square. Cut an arch of
18" in a 2" x 6" or 2" x 8" and nail it to the plywood. Next cut an another
arch from plywood of about 19" or 19 1/2" and nail it to the other arch forming
a channel. Use the channel as a
Dave,
Not that I know what I'm doing but glad I could help. Hi
I do know that with a few exceptions both rigs use the same commands from the
utility programs. I am not a Rpi guy; I dabble in the Arduino but I'm sure the
code could be ported over rather easily. Pleas keep me and all of us
I have been trying to follow the adventures of those of you interested in using
a Genovation Keypad with a K3 or K3s and I believe the waters have become
muddied a bit. I think the gentleman wants to do what i want to do and that is
to use a Genovation connected to the radio without having a P3
I have been involved with a project developed by Peter Rhodes of the UK that
started as a way to improve the NR in his Pick a Star trx. It appears that the
project is nearing the limits of what can be done and will hopefully go public
soon. The project is called nitPic and operates on the audio
On the simple side I recently built Jack Purdum's Arduino controlled unit for
about $60 and it works well and does all the normal functions required for a
field operation on 10m to 80m.
73, PJH, N7PXY
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