Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Grant Youngman
The only thing that would concern me about buying this (NOS) material of 
unknown date of manufacture from eBay is that it does have a shelf life of 5 
years in its pre-stretched state when properly stored (50-80 deg F at less than 
75% relative humidity).  If it’s been stored in someone’s hot humid garage or 
been rattling around in a tool box in a pickup bed in the sun for a couple of 
years before it hits the auction site, there’s no telling.  I suspect at some 
point it won’t shrink as much as the specification.  But it is less expensive 
from most sellers than the retail pricing.

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 6, 2020, at 12:26 AM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
> 
> Cold shrink tubing is widely available on eBay, usually about ten dollars 
> each 
> 
> - Original Message -
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread donovanf
Cold shrink tubing is widely available on eBay, usually about ten dollars each 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Dougherty"  
To: donov...@starpower.net, "Elecraft Reflector"  
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 4:13:03 PM 
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where 
is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go 
through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5 
years. 

- pjd 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of donov...@starpower.net 
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat 
shrink and cold shrink tubing 


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message - 

From: "Peter Dougherty"  
To: "Edward R Cole" , "Elecraft Reflector" 
 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors: 
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1" 
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said 
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new 
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if 
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground 
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable. 


- pjd 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 

Behalf Of Edward R Cole 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted 
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so 
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at 
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will 
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from 
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
Ouch! I'll get a few of these but reserve them for anything in the air that's 
difficult to access. I still have about 5 feet of the Ancor marine heat shrink 
for anything at ground level. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Grant Youngman  

DigiKey has it in 6” or 8” pieces of various diameters.  It runs around $25.00 
per piece, with quantity discounts.  Not inexpensive … 


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Grant Youngman
DigiKey has it in 6” or 8” pieces of various diameters.  It runs around $25.00 
per piece, with quantity discounts.  Not inexpensive …

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:13 PM, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
> is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
> through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
> years.
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
> Behalf Of donov...@starpower.net
> Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
> To: Elecraft Reflector 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
> 
> This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
> shrink and cold shrink tubing 
> 
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw 
> 
> 
> 73 
> Frank 
> W3LPL 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
years.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of donov...@starpower.net
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
shrink and cold shrink tubing 


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Dougherty"  
To: "Edward R Cole" , "Elecraft Reflector"
 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors: 
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1" 
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said 
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new 
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if 
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground 
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable. 


- pjd 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On

Behalf Of Edward R Cole 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted 
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so 
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at 
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will 
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from 
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Charlie T
I have successfully used a method of water-proofing a coax splice by first 
coating the outside of the connectors with silicone (di-electric) grease, then 
wrapping about 18" X 5" (or?) piece of plain plastic garbage bag around the 
junction.
The next step is to wrap that with several layers of good electrical tape 
extending the wrap about 2 inches past the plastic.  I do NOT like the scotch 
stuff since the adhesive gets gooey over time.  Believe it or not, the cheap 
chicom stuff Harbor Freight sells is quite good.  I have opened up fittings 
done this way this over ten years later and the connection is bright & shiny 
with no hint of water corrosion.

73, Charlie k3ICH

 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread donovanf
This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of 
heat shrink and cold shrink tubing 


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Dougherty"  
To: "Edward R Cole" , "Elecraft Reflector" 
 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors: 
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1" 
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said 
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new 
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if 
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground 
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable. 


- pjd 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Edward R Cole 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted 
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so 
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at 
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will 
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from 
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/4/2020 7:55 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
change something.
That's what they make X-acto knives for. 


Right. Of course -- that works with Rescue Tape, but it doesn't work at 
all with 3M Mastic tapes -- they are a real PITA to remove.



I never reuse "taken off" tape.


Of course not. The difference is the time it takes. I unwrap the Scotch 
88 outer layer, then slit along the length of cable and the Rescue Tape 
peels off in a few seconds! I considered myself doing well to get Mastic 
off in 15 minutes! The mastic I'm talking about is 3M 2228. The reason 
for unwrapping the 88 is so that I don't damage the cable's outer jacket.


I just ordered a box of Scotch 130C to have on hand.

Thanks and 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Phil Kane
On 6/4/2020 7:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
> hand... ;)

I have to introduce you to my cousin the eye surgeon who can teach you
to avoid things like that!  :)   One of the stunts that he does to show
off is to peel the red skin off an apple and leave the green under-skin
intact.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Phil Kane
On 6/3/2020 9:17 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
> change something.

That's what they make X-acto knives for.  I never reuse "taken off" tape.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Clay Autery

I NEVER use a knife to remove connector protection.
For decades I have used single-edged razor blades ONE-time use on 
stuff like connectors.  I keep a box of 100 in the garage, my office, my 
networking box, my radio box, et al.
Pull out a new one to slit the cover and then wrap in a paper towel and 
dispose of properly.


99% of the time if I "slip" and cut something I don't want to cut is 
because the blade wasn't sharp enough for the job  AKA: applying too 
much force trying to push a dull edge through a material.


These days, I also carry an OLFA H-1 heavy duty retractable razor knife 
with big thick snappable section blades.  I use this in the 
construction/renovation stuff where I want a handle for the blade.

But I STILL use SE razor blades without a handle for detail work.

73,

__
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(318) 518-1389

On 06/04/20 09:59, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Dave Cole

Yup.;..  :)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 8:47 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into 
the wind?   Neither works.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into 
the wind?   Neither works.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
not so trivial. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
leaving no residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
Never sliced my hand (thankfully), but yeah, I've damaged the cable a few 
times. See my correction, though; I use the 130 and marine grade heat shrink as 
my default, not 130 and 88. 

I *_did_* use 130+88 on the LFA yesterday, which is where this current 
discussion started. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Dave Cole  
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 10:59 AM
To: Peter Dougherty ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my hand... 
;)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
> removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
> deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
> not so trivial.
> 
>   - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
> Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
> leaving no residue or old tape.
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
>   
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Dave Cole
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
not so trivial.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 
88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
  


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Dave Cole
Time to put some of my current heatshrink on an old connector and throw 
it in the freezer, thanks for the tip!!!


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 12:35 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

My two cents worth:

Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered by 
two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax cable 
connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water exposure.  Removing 
5-years afterward, connectors were still bright,dry, and looking like new.


Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for it). 
But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North Pacific with 
very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to work.


At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly 
reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of 
Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.


I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into a 
seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.


Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a 
melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is 
not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you 
can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot 
chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps 
(Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply house.


When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and breaks.  
That's not when I want to climb a tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
   http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
   dubus...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Doug Daniels
Scotch-70 is $17.50 a roll on Amazon -
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-70-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Electrical/dp/B0029Z5RSY

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 3:36 AM Edward R Cole  wrote:

> My two cents worth:
>
> Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered
> by two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax
> cable connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water
> exposure.  Removing 5-years afterward, connectors were still
> bright,dry, and looking like new.
>
> Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for
> it). But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North
> Pacific with very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to
> work.
>
> At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly
> reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of
> Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.
>
> I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into
> a seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.
>
> Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a
> melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is
> not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure
> you can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in
> 4-foot chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink
> and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply
> house.
>
> When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and
> breaks.  That's not when I want to climb a tower.
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>http://www.kl7uw.com
> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>dubus...@gmail.com
>
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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> Message delivered to k1rd...@gmail.com
>


-- 

--... ...--
Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Edward R Cole

My two cents worth:

Professionally, I used a layer of Scotch-70 self-fusing tape covered 
by two layers of Scoth-33+ black electric tape.  This was on coax 
cable connectors on small vessels that were in salt-water 
exposure.  Removing 5-years afterward, connectors were still 
bright,dry, and looking like new.


Scotch-70 is expensive (I paid $30 per roll over ten years ago for 
it). But when you got guys on board a 26-foot boat in the North 
Pacific with very high seas (like 30-foot) you want their Marine Radio to work.


At home, I use heat shrink with two layers of Scotch-33+ fairly 
reliably.  If things are too close to wrap with tape then a layer of 
Scotch-Kote seals heat shrink, thoroughly.


I don't use sticky, messy stuff like Coax Seal.  Scotch-70 molds into 
a seamless covering and slits easily with a razor knife.


Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a 
melted inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is 
not messy so apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure 
you can buy it at commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 
4-foot chunks which will cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink 
and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from a local commercial electrical supply house.


When temperatures dip to -30F the cheap stuff gets brittle and 
breaks.  That's not when I want to climb a tower.


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread John

After taping up the feed point connection on my LFA, I coated

it with liquid tape.  Did some maintenance on it 6 years later

and the connection was still secure and showed little evidence

of UV deterioration.

John.


On 03/06/2020 9:52 p.m., donov...@starpower.net wrote:

Hi Jim,


I've had good success with liquid electrical tape, but I use it only
as a last resort when Scotch 130C and Scotch 33 or 88 can't
be used


73
Frank
W3LPL

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Brown" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 4:25:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

On 6/3/2020 4:26 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:

But I never use Scotchkote
because UV very quickly destroys it.

Frank,

Do you have experience with Liquid Electrical Tape? We've been using it
to seal exposed ends of choke splices for a year or two, not enough to
see issues if there are any. Our applications are the dipole centers
with chokes and inline chokes as we showed in the 2018 Cookbook.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Dave Cole
I always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I 
cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving 
no residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/3/20 12:48 PM, Buck wrote:
Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  The 
first layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the fusing 
tape later


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/3/2020 12:58 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods 
and procedures that are used.


Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical 
tape to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...

There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.

Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If 
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless 
hardware, but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in 
self-annealing tape

and Scotch 88 just to be safe.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On

Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the 
KPA-1500

as I'd originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during 
damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and 
feedline.
The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the 
Ten-Tec
238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna 
switch was

now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather 
expected in

the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet 
box to
the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now 
have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total 
of about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to 
address in

the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.

Screencaps:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
witch.png?dl=0

And

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
0tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
=0

   - pjd

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Dave Cole

Use Scotch 130, better than rescue tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/3/20 11:50 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 6/3/2020 8:35 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:


No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
and Scotch 88 just to be safe.


Rescue Tape to the rescue.   - also available from the
Amazing place.

Originally developed as a repair tape, it's stretchable, self-sealing,
high insulation rated, UV resistant, comes in several colors for easy
ID, and no residue when removed.  I had several antenna feed points
wrapped with it and after 10+ years the connectors underneath were as
bright and shiny as they were when first installed.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread donovanf
Hi Jim, 


I've had good success with liquid electrical tape, but I use it only 
as a last resort when Scotch 130C and Scotch 33 or 88 can't 
be used 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "Jim Brown"  
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 4:25:24 AM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

On 6/3/2020 4:26 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote: 
> But I never use Scotchkote 
> because UV very quickly destroys it. 

Frank, 

Do you have experience with Liquid Electrical Tape? We've been using it 
to seal exposed ends of choke splices for a year or two, not enough to 
see issues if there are any. Our applications are the dipole centers 
with chokes and inline chokes as we showed in the 2018 Cookbook. 

73, Jim K9YC 
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/3/2020 4:26 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:

But I never use Scotchkote
because UV very quickly destroys it.


Frank,

Do you have experience with Liquid Electrical Tape?  We've been using it 
to seal exposed ends of choke splices for a year or two, not enough to 
see issues if there are any. Our applications are the dipole centers 
with chokes and inline chokes as we showed in the 2018 Cookbook.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/3/2020 9:58 AM, Clay Autery wrote:
Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape 
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...


This is what I and several friends have been doing for a while, and we 
think it works well. The self-fusing tape we use is Rescue Tape. The 
covering tape is Scotch 88. It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to 
open up if you need to change something.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I have used a very thick non migrating silicone vacuum grease on the UHF 
connectors in the past to waterproof them. I put some on the threads and on the 
rear of the center section that the barrel pushes against. They have been up at 
40 feet in all kinds of weather for 30 years with no problems. I considered 
tape, etc. but it seemed that if some water got in, it would have difficulty 
getting out. Better to not provide a container for water.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 2:50 PM, Buck  wrote:
> 
> Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  The first 
> layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the fusing tape later
> 
> Buck, k4ia
> Honor Roll
> 8BDXCC
> EasyWayHamBooks.com
> 
>> On 6/3/2020 12:58 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
>> I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods and 
>> procedures that are used.
>> Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape to 
>> protect the self-fusing tape from UV...
>> There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.
>> Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If not, 
>> I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.
>> 73,
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> (318) 518-1389
>>> On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
>>> I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
>>> and Scotch 88 just to be safe.
>>> 
>>>   - pjd
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>>> Behalf Of Dave Cole
>>> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
>>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> 
>>> Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
>>> weatherproofed?
>>> 
>>> 73, and thanks,
>>> Dave (NK7Z)
>>> https://www.nk7z.net
>>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>>> 
>>> On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>>> HI all,
>>>> 
>>>> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
>>> replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500
>>> as I'd originally feared.
>>>> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
>>> "iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or
>>> wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.
>>>> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
>>> 238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was
>>> now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
>>> fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
>>> nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
>>> conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in
>>> the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
>>>> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to
>>> the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an
>>> additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about
>>> 1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in
>>> the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
>>>> Screencaps:
>>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
>>>> witch.png?dl=0
>>>> 
>>>> And
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
>>>> 0tuning.png?dl=0
>>>> 
>>>> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
>>>> double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
>>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
>>>> =0
>>>> 
>>>>- pjd
>>>> 
>>>> __
>>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>> Post: mail

Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread donovanf


Dave, 


Try Josh's technique, you won't regret it. But I never use Scotchkote 
because UV very quickly destroys it. 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 
- Original Message -

From: rocke...@gmail.com 
To: "Josh Fiden" , "Elecraft Reflector" 
 
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 11:08:51 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

A layer of friction tape is also a good way to keep the connectors sticky free. 

Dave wo2x 


-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Josh Fiden 
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 4:35 PM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

To make it come off *really* clean, I like to put the 1st layer of vinyl tape 
sticky side out. Then self-fusing tape, another layer of vinyl tape (3m 33+ or 
88). And because overkill is never enough, paint with some Scotchkote last! 

73 
Josh W6XU 

Sent from my mobile device 

>> On Jun 3, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Buck  wrote: 
> Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape. 
> The first layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the 
> fusing tape later 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread rocketnj
A layer of friction tape is also a good way to keep the connectors sticky free. 

Dave wo2x


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Josh Fiden
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 4:35 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

To make it come off *really* clean, I like to put the 1st layer of vinyl tape 
sticky side out. Then self-fusing tape, another layer of vinyl tape (3m 33+ or 
88). And because overkill is never enough, paint with some Scotchkote last!

73
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

>> On Jun 3, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Buck  wrote:
> Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  
> The first layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the 
> fusing tape later

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Peter Dougherty
For PL-259 or Type-N to female connections outside my standard practice is
either double-wall marine grade heat shrink, or Scotch-130 self-annealing
tape (probably the same stuff as the 3M 2155) and the marine grade heat
shrink. 

We had a line of storms headed this way after I read your post, and I
decided to lower/tilt the tower over, and I wrapped the screw ends of the
balun with Scotch 130 and Super 88. Not sure what got into me when I put the
antenna up; I guess I figured SS hardware shouldn't be a problem in the
elements, but yeah, better safe than sorry.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Walter Underwood
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 1:10 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I use the weatherproofing described here. I think this practice has a long
history in telephone wiring. It is a detailed walk-through of what you
described.

https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf
<https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf>

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 9:58 AM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods and
procedures that are used.
> 
> Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...
> There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.
> 
> Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.
> 
> 73,
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless 
>> hardware, but I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in 
>> self-annealing tape and Scotch 88 just to be safe.
>> 
>>  - pjd
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>>  On Behalf Of Dave Cole
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna 
>> weatherproofed?
>> 
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>> 
>> On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> HI all,
>>> 
>>> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
>> replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the 
>> KPA-1500 as I'd originally feared.
>>> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp 
>>> was
>> "iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during 
>> damp or wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna
and feedline.
>>> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the 
>>> Ten-Tec
>> 238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna 
>> switch was now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered 
>> the tower to fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is 
>> humming along just nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and 
>> showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry conditions. I will keep my fingers 
>> crossed that the wet weather expected in the next day or so won't bother
it all that much.
>>> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet 
>>> box to
>> the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now 
>> have an additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a 
>> total of about
>> 1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to 
>> address in the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
>>> Screencaps:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%2
>>> 0s
>>> witch.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And
>>> 
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after
>>> %2
>>> 0tuning.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the 
>>> double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?
>>> dl
>>> =0
>>> 
>>>   - pjd
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list

Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Josh Fiden
To make it come off *really* clean, I like to put the 1st layer of vinyl tape 
sticky side out. Then self-fusing tape, another layer of vinyl tape (3m 33+ or 
88). And because overkill is never enough, paint with some Scotchkote last!

73
Josh W6XU

Sent from my mobile device

>> On Jun 3, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Buck  wrote:
> Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  The first 
> layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the fusing tape later

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Buck
Electrical tape, then the self-fusing tape, then electrical tape.  The 
first layer of electrical tape makes it easier to removing the fusing 
tape later


Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 6/3/2020 12:58 PM, Clay Autery wrote:
I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods 
and procedures that are used.


Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape 
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...

There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.

Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If 
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, 
but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing 
tape

and Scotch 88 just to be safe.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On

Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the 
KPA-1500

as I'd originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during 
damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and 
feedline.

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch 
was

now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather 
expected in

the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet 
box to
the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now 
have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of 
about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to 
address in

the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.

Screencaps:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
witch.png?dl=0

And

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
0tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
=0

   - pjd

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Phil Kane
On 6/3/2020 8:35 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

> No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
> I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
> and Scotch 88 just to be safe. 

Rescue Tape to the rescue.   - also available from the
Amazing place.

Originally developed as a repair tape, it's stretchable, self-sealing,
high insulation rated, UV resistant, comes in several colors for easy
ID, and no residue when removed.  I had several antenna feed points
wrapped with it and after 10+ years the connectors underneath were as
bright and shiny as they were when first installed.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Walter Underwood
I use the weatherproofing described here. I think this practice has a long 
history in telephone wiring. It is a detailed walk-through of what you 
described.

https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf 
<https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf>

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 9:58 AM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods and 
> procedures that are used.
> 
> Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape to 
> protect the self-fusing tape from UV...
> There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.
> 
> Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If not, I 
> will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.
> 
> 73,
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
>> I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
>> and Scotch 88 just to be safe.
>> 
>>  - pjd
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>> Behalf Of Dave Cole
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
>> weatherproofed?
>> 
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>> 
>> On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> HI all,
>>> 
>>> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
>> replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500
>> as I'd originally feared.
>>> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
>> "iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or
>> wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.
>>> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
>> 238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was
>> now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
>> fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
>> nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
>> conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in
>> the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
>>> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to
>> the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an
>> additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about
>> 1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in
>> the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
>>> Screencaps:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
>>> witch.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And
>>> 
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
>>> 0tuning.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
>>> double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
>>> =0
>>> 
>>>   - pjd
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
>>> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
>>> d...@nk7z.net
>>> 
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
>> delivered to li...@w2irt.net
>> 
>> _

Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Clay Autery
I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods 
and procedures that are used.


Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape 
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...

There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.

Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If 
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:

No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
and Scotch 88 just to be safe.

  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many

replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500
as I'd originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was

"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec

238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was
now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in
the next day or so won't bother it all that much.

The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to

the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in
the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.

Screencaps:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
witch.png?dl=0

And

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
0tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the
double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
=0

   - pjd

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Peter Dougherty
No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
and Scotch 88 just to be safe. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> HI all,
> 
> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500
as I'd originally feared.
> 
> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.
> 
> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was
now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in
the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
> 
> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to
the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in
the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
> 
> Screencaps: 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
> witch.png?dl=0
> 
> And
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
> 0tuning.png?dl=0
> 
> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the 
> double-walled heat-shrink was applied: 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
>   - pjd
> 
> __
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email 
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to 
> d...@nk7z.net
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Dave Cole

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna 
weatherproofed?


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many replies 
received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500 as I'd 
originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was "iffy" on 
the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or wet weather. This 
prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec 238 
tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was now the 
issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to fine-tune the 
LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just nicely. The KPA-1500 
is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry conditions. I will keep my 
fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in the next day or so won't 
bother it all that much.

The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to the 
main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an 
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about 
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in the 
future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.

Screencaps: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20switch.png?dl=0

And

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%20tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the double-walled 
heat-shrink was applied: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl=0

  - pjd

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[Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-02 Thread Peter Dougherty
HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many replies 
received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500 as I'd 
originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was "iffy" on 
the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or wet weather. 
This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline. 

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec 238 
tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was now the 
issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to fine-tune the 
LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just nicely. The KPA-1500 
is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry conditions. I will keep my 
fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in the next day or so won't 
bother it all that much.

The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to the 
main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an 
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about 
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in the 
future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB. 

Screencaps: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20switch.png?dl=0

And 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%20tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the double-walled 
heat-shrink was applied: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl=0

 - pjd 

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