Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying
a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits
fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
better.
Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
getting into
Brett,
I believe the answer to most of your fears is to purchase a new
screwdriver and yes, make up that BOM list and place an order. Replace
what needs replacing and be done with it.
While you are replacing, check the grounding points on the panels and
you may have some improvement in
radio, but I think
that in a production piece they should be of the correct length and permanently
staked into place.
Flame away.
Wes N7WS
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:
From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote:
I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
from the board side snip
I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of
Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws
Byron,
I would hesitate to put locktite of any kind on the enclosure screws -
they would be a bear to remove.
Since these are steel screws run into aluminum, the two dissimilar
metals can create drag and can actually lock together, so you have an
effective 'threadlocker' already. One trick I
I have noticed that the order in which panel screws are removed can be
important. For example, on my K3, the rear left top panel screw is easy to
remove if removed early, but much harder if left to last. Not noticed this yet
with either bottom panel.
I have a supply of model railroad flat
Brett,
You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit K3SSKT instead of
spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need.
You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty
of extras for later.
Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers..
Rick
K6LE
Here in the Pacific the SS kit is a must, my screw heads tarnished in a
couple
months on stock screws. I use a tiny dollop of penetrox or similar on
the threads
to make sure they come loose next time. Here in the salt everything
corrodes.
And the proper size driver tip is most important.
Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers..
Excellent advice and probably one of the best investments made when
assembling or performing work on the K3. At first, I purchased new #0 and
#1 Phillips-head drivers from Klein Tools. The K3 assembly manual warns
against the use of power
Well so I've ordered a set of Wiha Driver-Loc drivers. I got the
ESD-Safe handle and a set of bits for pretty much everything I use.
Ok with that taken care of I ordered replacement split washers, inside
tooth washers, black and nickel screws and new standoffs. I also
ordered the stainless
10 matches
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