[Elecraft] RF gain, preamp and attenuator

2009-03-28 Thread Doug Turnbull
I am a new owner of a K3 and also run an Orion 2 which is IMHO a fine rig.
I like its larger size and remote pod for use in contests.   Put this aside
I need to know how to drive the K3 but am influenced by the O2.   For the O2
I keep attenuation off, preamp on and ride the rf gain and I do this for all
bands on CW including 160 M.   Sometimes for contest work I throw in some
attenuation though it does not seem to be required.   Is it the consensus
that for the K3 a similar approach is used or am I right in gathering that
many of you disable the preamp and introduce attenuation as well as
throttling rf gain? 

 

Both rigs allow many options and learning to configure them for ones style
of operation is critical.   I helped a friend with an O2 who was having a
horrible time until we went through the menus together and then he enjoyed
the sun.   I hope not to have too steep a learning curve and am grateful for
your guidance.   Thanks!

73 Doug EI2CN

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Re: [Elecraft] RF gain, preamp and attenuator

2009-03-28 Thread Bill W4ZV


I am a new owner of a K3 and also run an Orion 2 which is IMHO a fine rig.
I like its larger size and remote pod for use in contests.   Put this aside
I need to know how to drive the K3 but am influenced by the O2.   For the O2
I keep attenuation off, preamp on and ride the rf gain and I do this for all
bands on CW including 160 M.   Sometimes for contest work I throw in some
attenuation though it does not seem to be required.   Is it the consensus
that for the K3 a similar approach is used or am I right in gathering that
many of you disable the preamp and introduce attenuation as well as
throttling rf gain?


EI2CN is a very familiar call on 160...most recently in the ARRL DX CW!  I was 
an original Orion owner for 4 years before getting the K3 so here are some 
comments which apply to both.

First, it's important to carefully place any receiver's noise floor just below 
the band noise being presented by your antenna.  There is no hard and fast rule 
for this because it will depend on the band (low bands being noisier), your 
antenna's gain and the gain of your receiver.  If you do this properly, you 
will be maximizing the dynamic range of your receiver above the noise floor and 
not wasting part of it by being below the noise floor.  Here's a graphic 
example, where A is the antenna noise, and 1 = ATT, 2 = neither ATT/PRE, 3 = 
PRE:

1:  00
2:00
3:  00
A:N

In case 1, you have too much attenuation so you will miss the weak signal N.
In case 2, the receiver is maximizing its dynamic range above N.
In case 3, You have too much gain (i.e. noise floor is below N) and are wasting 
some of your RX's potential dynamic range above N.

The simplest way to properly set ATT/OFF/PRE is to apply your antenna (with no 
signals except band noise) to your RX with RF GAIN max CW, and listen to see if 
you can hear any band noise increase in the following order:  first with ATT 
on, then both ATT/PRE off, then with PRE on.  You should stop when you can just 
detect an increase in band noise when the antenna is applied.  Normally this 
will mean ATT on for the low bands because the atmospheric noise floor is much 
higher than higher bands **but** it will also depend on the antenna you are 
using.  If you have a very lossy RX antenna like a Flag/Pennant, you very well 
may need PRE on.  If you have a large vertical, you will probably need ATT on.  
So the best setting will depend both on the level of band noise and your 
antenna gain.

Once you have ATT/PRE set properly, then you should back off RF GAIN (CCW 
direction) until you see band noise stop flickering the S-Meter.  That is, set 
RF GAIN so it is just at the ambient noise level being shown on the meter.

For the K3, I usually have AF GAIN set at about 9 o'clock and RF GAIN will vary 
from 3 o-clock to noon...depending on the ambient noise level.  I also often 
use diversity with two very different antennas.  My 160 TX antenna is a 
3-element parasitic vertical with approximately +5 dBi gain and my RX Beverages 
have approximately -10 dBi gain.  I want to normalize the signals into the K3 
so I set ATT on for the TX antenna path on Main and PRE on for the RX antenna 
path on Sub.  Then I can keep both RF GAIN knobs at approximately the same 
settings.  I also use the SUB RX Audio Gain fader control so both channels are 
controlled by the inside AG Gain knob.

I hope this helps and that my little graphic is not too distorted to get the 
general idea.

73,  Bill  W4ZV



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Re: [Elecraft] RF gain, preamp and attenuator

2009-03-28 Thread Mike Markowski
btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:

 The simplest way to properly set ATT/OFF/PRE is to apply your antenna
 (with no signals except band noise) to your RX with RF GAIN max CW,
 and listen to see if you can hear any band noise increase in the
 following order:  first with ATT on, then both ATT/PRE off, then with
 PRE on.

Thanks, Bill, for the very nice write up.  I'd like to mention that on
the K2 - and I imagine on a K3 that I hope to own one day soon! - you
can cycle through all four combinations of ATT/PRE on/off if you use
software.

I wrote a bare bones (i.e., ugly!) C program that performs some k2 cmds.
 I originally wrote it to first do a low power tune and then a high
power tune, but have added more functions as time went on.  Eventually I
added a 'level' cmd so that I can choose between RF gains of +14, +4, 0,
and -10 dB using the various att/pre combos.  Nothing major, but maybe
lets you further fine tune your rf gain settings.

73,
Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] RF gain, preamp and attenuator

2009-03-28 Thread Dave Hachadorian
My settings:
10, 15 preamp, no attenuator
20 preamp sometimes, no attenuator
40 no preamp, sometimes attenuator
80, 160 attenuator, no preamp

Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 9:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] RF gain, preamp and attenuator


I am a new owner of a K3 and also run an Orion 2 which is 
IMHO a fine rig.
 I like its larger size and remote pod for use in contests. 
 Put this aside
 I need to know how to drive the K3 but am influenced by 
 the O2.   For the O2
 I keep attenuation off, preamp on and ride the rf gain and 
 I do this for all
 bands on CW including 160 M.   Sometimes for contest work 
 I throw in some
 attenuation though it does not seem to be required.   Is 
 it the consensus
 that for the K3 a similar approach is used or am I right 
 in gathering that
 many of you disable the preamp and introduce attenuation 
 as well as
 throttling rf gain?



 Both rigs allow many options and learning to configure 
 them for ones style
 of operation is critical.   I helped a friend with an O2 
 who was having a
 horrible time until we went through the menus together and 
 then he enjoyed
 the sun.   I hope not to have too steep a learning curve 
 and am grateful for
 your guidance.   Thanks!

73 Doug EI2CN

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 Please help support this email list: 
 http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 

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