Re: [Elecraft] PSU cable
On 4/11/2018 2:46 PM, Ralph Parker wrote: > What I have done in the past, (with cheaper radios) is to bypass the > power connector, and solder heavy > wires directly to the DC input pads inside the radio. Thereby voiding any warranty, and with some manufacturers, being refused for any service even if paid. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 >From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] PSU cable
I would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or at least double up the power poles What I have done in the past, (with cheaper radios) is to bypass the power connector, and solder heavy wires directly to the DC input pads inside the radio. The power supply end has ring terminals. Fewer connections, fewer ohms. I haven't looked to see if this would be practical for the K3, and still allow it to be disassembled. VE7XF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] PSU cable
On 4/11/2018 10:30 AM, Bill Frantz wrote: > I have a TGE Boost Regulator* connected to lead-acid batteries powering > my K3. The boost regulator is set for 13.7V which drops to 13.3V during > 100W CW key down. The device is connected to the radio with about 30cm > (1 ft) of #10 zip cord and PowerPoles. I use the Boost-Regulator for my transceivers, set for 14.1V because of the lead lengths to the load breaker panel and from there to the connected devices. The input to the regulator is normally 13.8V from a supposedly-regulated AC power supply and float battery arrangement. > Car stereo installers may be a good source for flexible heavy gage wire. That's one source. I use the local marine supply company store - marine-grade wire is far more flexible than standard "stranded" wire or "zip cord".. > > Also, PowerPole has some "75A" connectors which are a lot more robust > (and not plug compatible) than the 15/30/45A ones generally seen. Adapters are available. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 >From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] PSU cable
I have a TGE Boost Regulator* connected to lead-acid batteries powering my K3. The boost regulator is set for 13.7V which drops to 13.3V during 100W CW key down. The device is connected to the radio with about 30cm (1 ft) of #10 zip cord and PowerPoles. I have had problems in the past with the screws working loose on bolt attachments with some cheap Chinese equipment, so there is no substitute for checking the voltage drop under load, regardless of connector technology. Fortunately the internal volt meter in the K3(S) makes a good/look for the problem test easy. Car stereo installers may be a good source for flexible heavy gage wire. Also, PowerPole has some "75A" connectors which are a lot more robust (and not plug compatible) than the 15/30/45A ones generally seen. 73 Bill AE6JV * Notes on the TGE Boost Regulator: I have not noticed any RFI coming from it, but my antennas are away from the house on our 250 foot deep lot, so household RFI isn't as much of a factor as it would be on a smaller lot. I got the 30A circuit breaker option, and have popped it on occasion when running a FT8 frequency with low batteries. I now monitor the device's temperature with my hand and go QRT for a while when it gets too hot. Perhaps getting a device rated for more that 20A might be a good idea. During manufacture, they scraped all the numbers off the ICs in the device. My opinion of this kind of behavior can not be properly expressed in a polite forum. --- Bill Frantz| Truth and love must prevail | Periwinkle (408)356-8506 | over lies and hate. | 16345 Englewood Ave www.pwpconsult.com | - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, CA 95032 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] PSU cable (was Astron psu..)
I have used twisted thick wires to encourage magnetic cancelling as recommended by Jim Brown. The twisting also makes the cable easier to manipulate. I used 2 cores rescued from scrap household cable. David G3UNA > > On 11 April 2018 at 17:02 "j...@kk9a.com" wrote: > > My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection. > Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This > was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter > leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power > supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. > I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those > interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as > Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. > > John KK9A > > Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > Ohms Law! If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy > guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals) > and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance > of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much > less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with > single small pins) and any accessories. > > Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection. I > would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or > at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable. > Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables > further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired > path. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to d.cut...@ntlworld.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
