Kind of* back on-topic*, see why in a minute...
Idea: Make a printer with two tanks. One resin and one IPA.The
printer raises the part out of the resin then the tanks moves on a rail and
the platform goes back down but this time int IPA tank and the platform
move 1mm or 2mm up and down quick
Hackaday has a series of articles under 3D Printering. The latest, #42, covers
cleaning resin prints. The basics are use two IPA washes. One for initial
cleaning to get most of the uncured resin off, then a second one to finish.
When the second has too much resin dissolved to wash clean, swap it
On 6/4/20 4:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol? I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> cleaners, and UV booths.
I'm
> Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative. The USB thumb drive is
> maybe better than an SD card.
>
> One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol? I know they make SLA post
On 6/4/20 3:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight.
Either.
Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol?
Yes.
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Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative. The USB thumb drive is
maybe better than an SD card.
One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol? I know they make SLA post-processing
https://forum.linuxcnc.org/show-your-stuff/39213-linuxcnc-for-sla-dlp-and-msla-mlcd-printers
https://imgur.com/zvxoHUT https://imgur.com/zKNtBAg
XY area: 537.6mm x 302.4mm (21.14" x 11.89") Large enough? You can go
much larger.
Photopolymers start under $20/Kg. Similar to FFF filament.
On
Thanks for posting about that, it's a new one on me. Previously I had looked
at Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars, I think they will have "other planets" out
soon too :-). I *think* most of these will do "offline" prints and work with
USB thumb drives just as you describe. There seems to be a p
Some misinformation in Chris' post.
The QIDI Shadow 5.5S has a USB port, just like most 3D printers, but the
lack of an SD card does not imply that data is dribbled across a USB
cable as the printer needs it. Instead of an SD card, I plug a USB
thumb drive into the Shadow. There's a very nice gr
I looked. They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
Windows. The interface is USB only, no SD card. So on Linux you'd be
using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software in
that. Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.
I would p
On 6/4/20 12:06 PM, grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>
> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
Thanks. Now I want to buy another one!
> what slicing software is needed
Chitubox. It seems to be proprietary freeware, w
I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
what slicing software is needed
does it run under linux
is the manual available
i would like to read up on this
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I have contemplated building one with a base/frame made of scrap granite
countertop material, granite surface plates, or an epoxy/mineral casting.
Vibration dampening is a good thing. The high accelerations of marginally
rigid frames can induce visible artifacts.
We have an fdm printer kit we
I formulate photopolymers and they are mostly acrylic monomers mixed
with acrylated epoxies or urethanes.
Here are the Radtech recommendations for proper handling:
https://www.radtech.org/health-safety/proper-handling-of-uv-resins
On 6/4/20 2:35 AM, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
Some of
Some of these resins are caustic, the especially nasty ones have a delayed
effect. You think you got it all off your thigh after you whipped your pants
off after spilling resin on your leg. Then a while later...
Just one of the rather ewww images that can be turned up with a search for 3d
print
I only saw more t-slot and plastic hardware type printers. For example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru5N2d2n_4c
My spare parts are linear servos and Newport rotary stages:
https://imgur.com/LOriL1y
Is anyone making a FFF/FDM printer that is not a wobbly toy that needs
constant tinkering t
Look up Ivan Miranda on YouTube. He's built several 3D printers, some pretty
large.
On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 12:21:37 PM MDT, Bari
wrote:
On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
> stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand. The e
The resins seem to be UV cured polyurethane or similar. Polyurethanes
have a wide range of physical properties. There are "ABS-like" resins
that are very structural. I believe hockey pucks are made of
polyurethane. The resin printed parts are dense and impact resistant.
One good choice for a s
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:05 PM Bruce Layne
wrote:
> You might consider a resin printer for your high precision smaller
> parts. The MSLA machines are very inexpensive... no where near FormLabs
> prices.
I didn't know these had dropped in price so far.
What resin choices are available for thes
On 6/3/20 10:19 AM, Thomas J Powderly wrote:
Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
I'm not Gene, but I'm using LinuxCNC to control a cheapo home-built 3d
printer.
I'm using a Mesa card wired to a RAMPS board, plus a Teensy for ADC (to
sense thermistor temperatures).
It's
On 6/3/20 3:32 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> I think my next printer
> will be a smaller, "delta" style that is best used for higher precision and
> smaller parts
>
> One reason to buy a more expensive printer is if you need a resin printer.
You might consider a resin printer for your high p
Those Ender printers "just work". My Anet A6 has been turning out parts
for a year now and runs 12hours a day.
All the posts about how much fiddling the printer take are posted by
beginners who are still learning. After a few Kg of plastic parts are made
the fiddling time goes way down after you
On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand. The entre printer,
extruder, controller and all is under $200. (they have a sale going now.)
Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling softw
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 9:21 AM Thomas J Powderly wrote:
>
> and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.
>
A typical milling machine does not move nearly fast enough to print
plastic. You need to move at least 30mm per second and preferably about
100mm per second of roughly 400 i
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:19:33 Thomas J Powderly wrote:
> Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
>
No. This is, except for what I've fiddled with and noted here, an OOTB
Creality Ender 3 Pro. Running the cura sliced gcode on its own little
computer, carried to it on an 8Gig
Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
I have a hotend and a roll of PLA
and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.
thanks
tomp
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