Kind of* back on-topic*, see why in a minute...
Idea: Make a printer with two tanks. One resin and one IPA.The
printer raises the part out of the resin then the tanks moves on a rail and
the platform goes back down but this time int IPA tank and the platform
move 1mm or 2mm up and down
Hackaday has a series of articles under 3D Printering. The latest, #42, covers
cleaning resin prints. The basics are use two IPA washes. One for initial
cleaning to get most of the uncured resin off, then a second one to finish.
When the second has too much resin dissolved to wash clean, swap
On 6/4/20 4:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol? I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> cleaners, and UV booths.
I'm
> Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative. The USB thumb drive is
> maybe better than an SD card.
>
> One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol? I know they make SLA
On 6/4/20 3:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight.
Either.
Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol?
Yes.
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Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative. The USB thumb drive is
maybe better than an SD card.
One more question. How do you post-process the printed parts? Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight. Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol? I know they make SLA post-processing
https://forum.linuxcnc.org/show-your-stuff/39213-linuxcnc-for-sla-dlp-and-msla-mlcd-printers
https://imgur.com/zvxoHUT https://imgur.com/zKNtBAg
XY area: 537.6mm x 302.4mm (21.14" x 11.89") Large enough? You can go
much larger.
Photopolymers start under $20/Kg. Similar to FFF filament.
Thanks for posting about that, it's a new one on me. Previously I had looked
at Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars, I think they will have "other planets" out
soon too :-). I *think* most of these will do "offline" prints and work with
USB thumb drives just as you describe. There seems to be a
Some misinformation in Chris' post.
The QIDI Shadow 5.5S has a USB port, just like most 3D printers, but the
lack of an SD card does not imply that data is dribbled across a USB
cable as the printer needs it. Instead of an SD card, I plug a USB
thumb drive into the Shadow. There's a very nice
I looked. They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
Windows. The interface is USB only, no SD card. So on Linux you'd be
using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software in
that. Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.
I would
On 6/4/20 12:06 PM, grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>
> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
Thanks. Now I want to buy another one!
> what slicing software is needed
Chitubox. It seems to be proprietary freeware,
I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
what slicing software is needed
does it run under linux
is the manual available
i would like to read up on this
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I have contemplated building one with a base/frame made of scrap granite
countertop material, granite surface plates, or an epoxy/mineral casting.
Vibration dampening is a good thing. The high accelerations of marginally
rigid frames can induce visible artifacts.
We have an fdm printer kit
I formulate photopolymers and they are mostly acrylic monomers mixed
with acrylated epoxies or urethanes.
Here are the Radtech recommendations for proper handling:
https://www.radtech.org/health-safety/proper-handling-of-uv-resins
On 6/4/20 2:35 AM, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
Some
Some of these resins are caustic, the especially nasty ones have a delayed
effect. You think you got it all off your thigh after you whipped your pants
off after spilling resin on your leg. Then a while later...
Just one of the rather ewww images that can be turned up with a search for 3d
I only saw more t-slot and plastic hardware type printers. For example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru5N2d2n_4c
My spare parts are linear servos and Newport rotary stages:
https://imgur.com/LOriL1y
Is anyone making a FFF/FDM printer that is not a wobbly toy that needs
constant tinkering
Look up Ivan Miranda on YouTube. He's built several 3D printers, some pretty
large.
On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 12:21:37 PM MDT, Bari
wrote:
On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
> stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand. The
The resins seem to be UV cured polyurethane or similar. Polyurethanes
have a wide range of physical properties. There are "ABS-like" resins
that are very structural. I believe hockey pucks are made of
polyurethane. The resin printed parts are dense and impact resistant.
One good choice for a
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 1:05 PM Bruce Layne
wrote:
> You might consider a resin printer for your high precision smaller
> parts. The MSLA machines are very inexpensive... no where near FormLabs
> prices.
I didn't know these had dropped in price so far.
What resin choices are available for
On 6/3/20 10:19 AM, Thomas J Powderly wrote:
Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
I'm not Gene, but I'm using LinuxCNC to control a cheapo home-built 3d
printer.
I'm using a Mesa card wired to a RAMPS board, plus a Teensy for ADC (to
sense thermistor temperatures).
It's
On 6/3/20 3:32 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> I think my next printer
> will be a smaller, "delta" style that is best used for higher precision and
> smaller parts
>
> One reason to buy a more expensive printer is if you need a resin printer.
You might consider a resin printer for your high
Those Ender printers "just work". My Anet A6 has been turning out parts
for a year now and runs 12hours a day.
All the posts about how much fiddling the printer take are posted by
beginners who are still learning. After a few Kg of plastic parts are made
the fiddling time goes way down after
On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand. The entre printer,
extruder, controller and all is under $200. (they have a sale going now.)
Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 9:21 AM Thomas J Powderly wrote:
>
> and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.
>
A typical milling machine does not move nearly fast enough to print
plastic. You need to move at least 30mm per second and preferably about
100mm per second of roughly 400
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:19:33 Thomas J Powderly wrote:
> Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
>
No. This is, except for what I've fiddled with and noted here, an OOTB
Creality Ender 3 Pro. Running the cura sliced gcode on its own little
computer, carried to it on an 8Gig
Gene. are you using linuxcnc to control the 3Dprinter?
I have a hotend and a roll of PLA
and I was considering making a swapable head on my machine.
thanks
tomp
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